GeneralDisorder

pipe wrench GD

My 85 does that too. I know exactly what you mean. The reason only Brat owners can hear them is the location of our pumps is right behind the driver door - under the car. My guess is that a lot of the older pumps make this noise. Ed - yours is under the hood - different pump too. GD

Hehe - hey moose - I have a silver Gen 2, and a silver Gen 3..... GD

"cali" emmissions (that's not to say that the others didn't have any emmissions equipment, cause they do), went back to AT LEAST 82, because I have an example of an 82 Brat that had the computer feedback controlled C/W 1 barrel on it. I reality, most of the Gen 2 cars and Brats have emmissions equipment - cat's and AIS's were standard even on cars without the feedback carb. The only gray area years are 80 and 81..... maybe 82. Those years are kinda sketchy for me - some may have had the stuff, other maybe not. GD

If I'm not mistaken, that is a DCP306-26. GD

Your cable's probably worn out - they get tight like that. It should be very easy to push with a stock clutch and PP. GD

Yeah - that would be me It's been corrected. There was a mixup with the paperwork at DMV down here. They got the VIN number wrong by one digit - it's supposed to be a JF2, but was written down as JFZ, so something in their computer system didn't click. I got pulled over for not having a rear license plate light, and when they ran the VIN it came back as not owned by me..... and well, you get the idea. I'm quite pissed about the whole situation, but now everything should be right again. I got it out of impound, and I'll be talking to the judge next month - should be able to get the charges dropped. Eric - didn't you release ownership of the vehicle in WA? I'm surprised it got back to you at all.. Weird. At any rate - please disregard! GD

Damn - that poor thing looks like hammered *****. If you part it I want some stuff.... and even if you don't, it looks like we could make a deal..... want to part with that rear seat bracket? GD

Just weird seeing a DL dash and wheel in a Brat. Not many DL's around for sure - not at all. GD

I wouldn't run the bowl vent into the intake manifold - I would run it into the air filter housing. But that's just me. I wouldn't do it because I don't like the idea of having a vacuum port open to the inside of the float bowl. Two reasons - one, doing that could actually introduce a vacuum leak depending on the internal construction of the carb, and two that is not supposed to be a pressurized system - adding vacuum will negatively pressurize the float bowl, and that could potentially change the float level, or suck gas into the vent line durring a hard turn. The vac lines that run into the hard lines under the manifold are for the vacuum advance on the disty, and the EGR valve. You can run these lines directly instead of through the hard lines - the hard lines tend to go to other places you don't need them too, and usually mess things up with potential leaks and such. I generally just run new lines to the disty and the EGR directly from the carb. Tends to make trouble shooting easier. GD

All Brat's/Brumby's should be EA81's. That's a 1.8L overhead valve engine. Only the Loyale line got the EA82 engines. The purge hose is opened by a thermo-vacuum valve when the engine reaches operating temperature in order to pull the evaporated gasses from the cannistor to be burnt. Just plug this port on the carb, remove the lines, and the cannistor. This line purges all the vent lines - it burns the evap gasses from the float bowl, the front fuel filter, and the gas tank.... so all the vent lines from each of these items should be removed. The tank and the float bowl need to be vented - usually into the air filter, or just left open, and the fuel filter vent (known as a vapor seperator) can just be plugged, or replace the filter with a normal aftermarket style filter.... that's what I do. I'm not sure what the "vacuum pipe" is - but there is a fuel bowl vent line.... usually on top of the carb near the fuel inlet somewhere. This line needs to be left in place for the carb float bowl to properly vent gasses and releive any pressure that might build up due to same. GD

EA82? So you installed this engine I take it? Also - do you have a feedback carb or a regular carb? ei - is there a computer under the driver side dash.... if so I would not touch anything. Any way - yes, definately leave the PCV system. It's not emmissions related anyway. It's there to release blow-by gasses from the crankcase so they do not dilute the engine oil. Removeing it therefore would be BAD. You can remove the evap canister - just make sure you run the float bowl vent tube somewhere.... into the air filter box would be good. You can leave the gas tank vent line open to the air. The only other system you have that is "emmissions" related is the AIS or Air Injection System. This *can* be removed, but it's a pain, and it's easier to just disable it. The AIS valves are located.... well I'm not sure where they would be on an EA82, but on an EA81 you can simply put a quarter (US funds ) in the pipe fitting leading from the head to block off the flow of air into the exhaust. That will effectively disable them. Also prevents them from failing and squirting molten plastic into your carb.... GD

Why not just convert to the internal regulated type, and thus kill both birds? Can't be that hard to figure out the wireing for it.... GD

Headgaskets, since they are compression gaskets, and are sealing against very high combustion temperatures should always be installed dry. Anything used on the gasket could cause a hot spot, and premature failure of the gasket. GD

There's almost no telling what it could be - with the modifications you listed, no one here will be able to accurately tell you anything about your vehicle. I would classify your car as "heavily modified" being that it is lifted, with a completely different engine than stock. Find the person who built it, and ask them.... GD

Very nice! How do you like those tires so far? They look very similar to what I have - are they 4 ply or 6? Are they 27's or 28's? GD

25 HP? Your 86 should have had the hydro lifter EA81, and those make around 80 - 85 HP stock - depending on who you talk to.... I don't know what an MPFI EA82 makes, but it's got to be less than the 110 that the turbo has Just sounds like a lot to me I guess. But I'm glad it's working on for you! And of course the old engine probably had it's issues, so you may not have been getting good power from it. GD

My guess is that your torsion bar isn't ratcheted up at all actually - mine isn't, and neither is the Bugaru's hatch - we just compressed the struts into position, and bolted em on..... the reason I'm only 3/4" from you is that my tires are bigger - so I'm close even though my struts are on the lowest setting. I'm guessing that maybe Brat's torsion bars are indeed set differently from the factory.... GD

Yeah - I looked back at it, and I see that I read it wrong. I'm still 3/4" away from you. What setting are your rear struts on? I'm on the softest setting on my wagon.... GD

Yeah - I think what I need to do is actually ratchet up the torsion bar. Right now, the stuts are just in there - compressed to fit. I thought you said you had more clearance than Ken? What did he change to get that much clearance from a PK style block lift? GD

Get a Weber 32/36 DFAV from an early model ford. Pinto's and such had them. Also known as a Holley 5200 series. I have heard that the ford 2300 engines had the same jetting as the DGV's we buy from redline. Also - the carb is virtually identical to the DGV, just takes a different air cleaner (can get those from EMPI - the VW guys), and uses the same redline adaptor plate. The Carter/Weber single barrel also needs a different manifold than the hitachi.... be aware of that if you try it. But they suck - basically everyone agrees on that. I've had pretty good success rebuilding the Hitachi's, and if you wire up the secondary so they open at the same time, then you have a progressive carb at least. Pretty cheap option - rebuild kits are $25.... my Brat runs very smooth with it's Hitachi.... GD

Nope. GD

Should be electric in my experience. Simple to check - run it till it's hot, and then open the air filter box - if the choke plate is open all the way, then it's working. My vote goes next to "carb rebuild" time. Pop the top off the carb, blow out the passages with compressed air, spray liberally with carb cleaner both inside and outside of the carb - put the top back with a new gasket. Should do the trick. GD

Man - I would have put in a tranny for you for $100 labor..... Can get them from the JY for around $150 (with warrantee) GD

I doubt that - I've shipped stuff all over the place from my ebay auctions, and I've never had a problem. Besides - that's what insurance is for! GD