lmdew

Very nice.

On Subaru Diffs I've pulled there is a vent plug on the top of the diff. You could always drain and fill it with Amsoil gear lube and see if the smell goes away.

I fixed a 2011 for a friend. Her cable on the window motor had a loose strand that bound up the window. Make sure you inhibit button for the passenger windows is not on. Other than that, start checking for power.

That's why I'm staying with my 2001 OBS.

It's the trailing arm bracket that bolts to the body. Be careful with the bracket to body bolts. The nuts in the frame rail have broken loose on me.

www.car-part.com Find one in a rust free area of the US and have them send it to you.

Try asking over here: https://forums.nasioc.com/

Hit the you pull and Pay's. Find a set of Legacy KYB struts and springs. Grab the complete set and bolt them up. Cheap and easy.

I'd hold on to all the parts until you are on the road and it's been fine for a month or so!

Seat of the pants. Just drive it. Try tight slow circles in both directions, checking for torque bind. Make sure it shifts through the gears as it should. No AT Temp light flashing.

Cleaner the better. It's a bunch of work to change the trans. I'd rather replace 2 engines than an Auto trans. Heavy as can be. That does not mean with a good fluid flush once it's running it may be fine. Once you confirm it's working, drain the fluid. Fill, pull the upper radiator ATF line and run another hose into a gallon jug. Start the engine, watch all the old dark nasty fluid be pumped out. 3/4 full, shut off the engine, fill the trans with new fluid and repeat. It usually takes about 3 gallons to get all the old nasty fluid out. Hook up the radiator ATF line. Service to the proper level, take it for a long drive and recheck the fluid level when it's hot. Service as required. You are Done!

OK. Can always drop the 4 bolts out of the rear diff to driveshaft connection.

Search Subaru Transmission Codes you'll fine a list. USMB or the web.

Junk yard hints. Look for cars that have been hit hard - in areas you don't care about. At least you know it was on the road. Look at the overall condition of the car, if it's in good condition you know the owner cared about it. Clean fluids are a +

To make the lower ball joint pop out of the lower A-arm I loosen the nut, jack the a-arm a little on the ball joint stud and then place a 3 lb BFH on the back of the a-arm and hit the front with another BFH. The ball joint will release. Remove the jack, remove the ball joint nut and pull it out.

Heard nothing but good things about Superrupair, but I don't do Turbos!

GD's in Portland, OR. Almost as rust free as CO.

Yep no easy way. Have to remove the knuckle from the strut and bottom A - arm to get enough room to prevent seal damage.

Rear diff is the way to go for both wheels. I've been doing it for years. No problem

Search Torque Bind on the USMB. Lots of good info and pics. Tires all the same size and pressure? Changed the trans fluid 3x or flushed by pulling the trans cooler line off the radiator? Read the code for the TCU. Instructions on the USMB

RA does not ship to CO. Something about taxes. Crazy!

Which CV Joint? Best just to fix it. Rear, you may be able to remove the rear section of the drive shaft. More work then changing the half shaft. Front, no option but to fix it.

Is your AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If the FWD light is not coming on when you put the fuse in the holder and you have torque bind. the C Duty Solenoid is most likely the problem. Lots of info on the USMB. Search Torque bind.

sorry for the extra pic.