lmdew

Yep, cheap clutch, replace with a good one.

I don't know why I did think of this years ago. If you need to remove the flex plate, fly wheel, or front crank damper with the engine out it's a little difficult when you are by your self. A couple of engine changes ago, I found an easy solution, the double box end wrench, I'm using my 13mm - 15mm. Simply put a 12mm bolt into the flywheel through one end of the wrench and then turn the flywheel until the other end will drop over the long engine stud. Works going on or off to lock up the crank.

I have a complete tail shaft and clutch assy. Shoot me an offer if you want it. Shipped from CO 80919 Larry

Possible you have a fuel problem. Subaru Wires? Subaru Coil? Search for P0420, there is some good information and threads on it.

Sounds like the shift cable broke or is out of adjustment. It's pretty easy to check and adjust if necessary. Get a good manual and it will show you how to do it. Larry

There are several 2000-2004 in the yard, Forester, Legacy Outbacks... if you want me to pull and ship one I can. $45 shipped. Larry, 80919

I taught my Kids and suggest to everyone to check the oil at every gas fill up. You're standing around anyway waiting on the gas to fill, pop the hood and take a look: Oil Collant Power steering fluid Leaks Strange stuff

I picked up a 97 Outback 5sp that had a 2.2 in it. It threw a rod, light metal flake in the drain oil. Are the heads worth trying to save? Thanks, Larry

Put the FWD fuse in and see if it changes. Sounds like you are in full time 4wd. The C-duty is not releasing the rear drive shafts in a sharp turn. Search torque bind. Did you double check the transmission connectors on top of the trans? Did you jack up the trans by the pan and may be dented it in? Is the trans light blinking 16 times when you start? Read the trans codes or have them read.

The smaller bolt will take care of the rear. The fronts, you may have to get the adjustable top strut mounts.

Front or rear? I've used the 12mm bolt from the bottom mount point, a spare on the top strut mount. It allows you to put the top in about a 1/8". It has worked great on several lifted OBS.

What if you manually shift from gear to gear? You might take it to a trans shop and ask them to evaluate it. They can put on their computer and drive the car and watch the trans.

Do it when the engine is cold. The preformed lines are nice, but you can get by with straight hose, just make sure you don't kink it. Remove the airbox Drivers side is pretty easy, just remove the clams and hose and replace The passenger side is a little harder access but it can be done. Fill the overflow bottle to the proper level.

I was doing a 99 2.5 to 2.2 swap and need an EGR line. I have several, but they all seem that the threaded fitting is to long. The line does not tighten up against the head before the fitting gets tight. Is there a difference in these lines? When I match the old cut one up it is about an 1/8" shorter, so it seems that there is a difference in the years. Thanks, Larry

Good visual inspection is first. Don't waist your money buying parts, until you know what you need.

Can this be right $12 for the cup seal? Engine Oil Pan Gasket Subaru - Legacy (1997) * Oil Pan Sealing Ring $16.03 -- $12.02 Guess I'll check around.

Get a Subaru Pump! I'd get a used Subaru pump over an aftermarket any day.

If you don't have need of the parts, it's most likely a better idea just to scrap it. Engine - $150-200 if it runs good Trans - $50 with TB Seats $20 Most yards will give you $75-200 for the car Scrap value about $140

When you bleed the brakes, you should not let the brake go down further than it normally does. Putting a 2x4 on the floor usually keeps it in a safe zone. If you take it all the way to the floor, the piston is working in an area of the cylinder that may have built up crud and it can take out the seal. I'd try bleeding it again. If you pump the brakes do you get a better feel? Then air in the system.

You can tap the trany for an heli coil. The hole is the correct size for the 14mm stud. I've done several this way. You can do it after the engine is in. I've worked from the bottom.

The 99 canister is in the back of the car. Just loop the 95 lines hooking them together. It works well if you put the larger line over the smaller one and just make them u-turn at the hard lines. You only need about 2" of vac line to do it.

The wire to the C-Duty is very short, and had to be unplugged as you pull off the tail shaft.

The pulley should always move, if it sticks when you tighten it it's not assembled correctly.

Small wire on the back of the starter! If it's not connected, the starter main contact's will not close and not battery voltage to the starter motor.

Yes they will bolt up, sometimes the brackets need to be moved as well.