Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

lmdew

Members
  • Posts

    4631
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    163

Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Before you even start, use only NGK and or Subaru Plugs and wires. - you can swap wires 1 to 3 and see if the fault follows. - Plugs, if you are going to pull them you may as well change them. - Could be a fuel problem as well, think fuel filter, injector. The Injector can be swapped. You didn't provide the year and head configuration. Mileage would also be helpful. Subaru coils hardly ever fail and I'd go used Subaru over aftermarket. I have plenty of 96-99 DOHC coils. $25 shipped.
  2. If he works on Subaru's he'll reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the engine. Just mention it to him. Oil Pump inside cover plate screws loctie and new oring.
  3. Get the Driveshaft ujoints checked. If they fail, it could take out the tail shaft of the trans. Subaru will tell you they are not replaceable but they are. There was a thread on this just a couple of weeks ago. Larry
  4. I don't have any time until the first week of AUG, but if you can live with it that long, I'd be happy to take a look for you. Larry
  5. Try moving the shift selector to "N" or slightly out of Park. If you switch is not indexed as Cougar said it will not start.
  6. Bent Struts and all 4 tires need to match within the 10% allowed by Subaru. Good visual inspection of the struts, lower A Arm and knuckle are in order.
  7. Must not be a AZ Car. Get a use lateral link While your there get a used rear hub and brake line and be done with it. $40 or so at a You pull and pay yard.
  8. If you have paperwork on your overhaul, see if they sealed the breather plate. How long ago was the rebuild done? I'd go back to the shop that did the work first! PCV can cause some oil issues. $12.00 for the part at your Subaru Dealer. Don't use aftermarket.
  9. Yep, just grab a good passenger side. Easy to get out at the yard, just cut the material and remove the complete pad. i can get complete seats for $40 at the local UPAP self serve yard. $60 shipped, I'll grab you a good foam pad and ship it.
  10. It's part of the wiring harness. It connects to the engine compartment fuse box. 1) if the wire is long enough crimp on a new end and be done with it. Don't use a cheap crimp, get a good one and a quality crimper 2) hit the junk yard and remove a good one
  11. Well to begin with, the engine will have to come out as the HG go on Dry. If you put RTV on they are junk and you may have caused oil system problems if the RTV got into the oil passages. I'd swap to a good 2.2 and be done with it. The last pic, the two brackets, one is for the Alternator bolt and the other hold the O2 sensor wire and goes on the lower passenger side stud.
  12. Change the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals to stop the oil from getting into the plug wells.
  13. Well, you in a high corrosion area. If you are only lightly applying the brakes all the time I'd bet you have glazed them over. Some hard braking may fix the problem. Have a good Subaru shop check it. Many things can cause what your are feeling.
  14. I've seen the results of a few that have let loose. I can get bad real fast. Better safe than sorry. It's going to cost less to fix it now than to wait.
  15. Kids first car, pick up a 95-99 Subaru with a 2.2 engine in it! Solid as can be. Cheap insurance and safe!
  16. Yep, that's the shape of the panel. PM me your email and I can send a pic. Larry
  17. I have a stock radio in the built in panel. If that's what you have, I can ship it for $45. Larry
×
×
  • Create New...