MR_Loyale

Never understood why a simple coil of wire almost identical to a doorbell fails so often.

If you put the old lights in the sockets not working, do they light up ?

Just to reiterate what L2.7T has said, the LED is not a light bulb. It is a diode (Light Emitting Diode) meaning that the polarity matters. In a regular incandescent bulb it does not matter which connection gets the positive versus the negative. In an LED it is critical. Swapping an LED into another socket doesn't guarantee you haven't also reversed the polarity on the new socket as well. Please review the link below for more information. http://www.explainthatstuff.com/diodes.html You might try putting one of the original bulbs into a socket where the LED appears not to work. This will tell if you are getting power there or not.

What are the symptoms? Does it crank but not fire?

You shouldn't have to solder the antenna to the radio. It should plug in. The braided wire is the ground shield and the inner wire is the signal.

I took my red sedan out yesterday after it sitting for a while. There is play in the wheel that results in a floting feeling on the highway. I haven't had a chance to investigate it yet, but I am thinking tie rod ends. Does this sound reasonable? Is this XY tire wiggle the way to confirm?

Took Ash out for a shakedown drive today After sitting all summer I had to charge the battery. It seems weak to restart so I will probably get a new one next weekend. Still had the issue with the heater controls malfunctioning. Have to push HEAT and then it half does the windshield and half the front vent. If I wait a few minutes and hit the windshield top button, it will go full force to the windshield for a bit and then reverts to coming out the front vent. I know this is gonna require fiddling in the dash but I am having trouble motivating myself to dig into it.

Battled another infestation of mice this summer. I took of the from cowl covers and looking at how the plenum rises up I can understand how a mouse would thin it a perfect spot for a nest. I will cover them with sreening material before putting UNO up for the winter.

Nice. Is it considered rude to ask how much it cost to do that?

I got my other Loyale sedan out for winter. Nothing wrong with it during summer, it just had winter tires and in Washington you cannot drive with winter tires in the summer. Had to charge the battery though, It seems kind of weak so I will probably replace it next weekend. I hate letting my cars sit for long periods as that hurts them to just sit.

Whenever I have seen that, it is my IAC acting up. A cap of Berrymans (just pop off the hose to access valve), let sit 5 mins and start. I do this as annual maintenance and never had the issue again.

Quite a fleet you have there.

As an aside to the topic, just how long can or should one expect brake hoses to last? I have a hard time telling good ones from bad ones by visual inspection. To me it is worth 19 bucks EA to be proactive in the most important safety aspect of the car. The last time mine were done may have been over 8 years and it was Midas, so probably substandard quality.

Remove the distributor cap and wipe out the condensation. Also lightly sand tip of rotor with emery cloth.

The wheels should spin freely. The added friction of the brakes dragging is why your mileage has gone down. They maybe did not properly adjust the calipers to accommodate new thick pads. I think that the Subaru calipers get turned with a tool to adjust them. Maybe the mechanic hadn't done many Subaru brakes and just forced them on. How many miles have you put on since? Either go to a Subaru specific shop and tell them the story suggesting they check the caliper adjustment since they are dragging, or wait until the new pads wear down enough.

I wonder if those burnt wires have anything to do with a stereo install gone wrong. Stock ea82 has a common ground on the speakers.

For a more powerful engine, look to an EJ swap. It has been done many times by others and they all love it. Ea82 turbo gives a high headache to horsepower ratio. You don't need a new transmission . You use an adapter plate as sold by several vendors here on USMB. Your ea82 power loss could be a clogged cat.

I am guessing they didn't tell you if the timing belt had been done. The interval, and someone correct me if I am wrong, is 105k miles. Folks usually sell the car rather than deal with the timing belt replacement cost labor and such. I hope it was done before they sold you the car. Might want to ask. If not, you should plan on doing it asap as a failure could cost lots for engine replacement.

Now you know why almost all consumer advocates advise getting the independent inspection done before the sale. My recommendation to someone uneducated in this situation is to become educated and start doing some of the maintenance work yourself. It isn't rocket science. For example, changing a battery is a job anyone can do. Did the seller tell you the timing belt change interval and when it is due again? Subarus older than 2010 or so (someone will chime in the exact cutoff date) have timing belts that need to be changed on schedule or they can break and destroy the engine top end. If you won't do this work yourself, you should start saving up. You can call around for prices. My guess would be 800 to 900 from an independent mechanic or 1200 dealer. Welcome to USMB and if you are scared to do your own work, keep this thought in mind - you can screw it up for a lot less than anyone else. After years of paying others to work on my vehicles and messing up, I came to that conclusion. Surprisingly I have yet to majorly screw something really bad. Not saying it won't happen but reading others mistakes before I do my work really helps

There is a rocker switch on the steering column. Make sure it isn't on. It does exactly that, turns off your rear lights. Got pulled over myself once for the same thing.

MCM did the experiment.

You know I have always wondered about that. Glad someone finally did the experiment.

No need for break-in if you leave the lower end alone. Very rarely is there a reason to split the block. You won't get much benefit for the work it will require. Most people just do the top end. Do all the seals and rubber you can reach, regardless of if you think they need to be done. Definitely do an oil pump and water pump for reliability. These are just "While you're in there" hard to get to type items. If this is your first time, my advice is to make a disassembly log giving every step a number and writing down what you took apart and label with tape each end of the hose or wire you took off. That way, when you get to putting it back together it is simply a matter of doing each step in reverse. Two years ago I did mine. The cylinders still had the beautiful cross hatching from the factory. You can see my thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147673-uno-my-first/

The Michelins are great. I have them and love them.

Jack up so the wheel is off the ground and spin it by hand. If the is a grinding noise, replace the bearings.