Skip

I too am an advocate of headlights on at all times, to the point I have wired my non Subaru cars to operate this way. But I also agree, even m_ r_ns (add 'o's if appropriate) have the right to choose for themselves. Parking lights instead of "using your head" lights - no brainer Geeks - running fog lights all the time?? Ultra Geeks - self installed way out of adjustment fog/driving lamps running all the time?? I was told the E-brake canceling the DRL was instituted for use in Drive-In theaters (anybody remember those??) so you could cruise to your spot without blinding the other "parkers"

Bob, You ask for an epoxy, not a mechanical fastener I believe? The two part epoxy I trust is JB Weld. The other good choice is a product by "Loctite" Specifically named "Stud and bearing mount" This is an anaerobic compound that cures only in an area where ther is no oxygn present. It will fill small gaps and hold the stud securely Hope this helps

Jeff, I'm not one thats much for "miracles in a can" but I have had very good luck with a product LUCAS Transmission conditioner Available at most NAPAs says it's designed to fix exactly your problem.

The block/coolant/oil heaters are a real good choice for all the aforementioned reasons. Cold starting is hard on your engine. I have another solution that is more oriented toward the occupant (i.e. me) than the engine as we do not suffer much in the way of sub zero weather. I have a ceramic cube heater (1500 watt) mounted on an aluminum support positioned in the rear of my wagon. Cord exits the tailgate and is rigged for auto disconnect. This is controlled by a timer which turns on approx. 1/2 hour before I leave for work. I get into a serious warm car and by the time it cools off the heater is putting enough heat. After all - it's all about being comfortable.

Will, I am in no way wanting to rain on your parade, please pursue this matter to it's fullest extent. but If one considers that the hub will no doubt not be made from a billet (i.e. a solid chunk of steel round stock) it them must be cast. Investment casting (sand, lost foam?) does not come cheap. After casting it must be machined in several ways. The face must be machined and drilled and then the splines machined into the inner bore. I don't know what you guys pay for machine work but 20 dollars would not even get one unit chucked up in most shops. Maybe if you place an order for several hundred? Me thinks this brainstorm is going to turn into a drizzle once the real price/unit is revealed.

I have written a repair article describing the push button 4wd system. It has pictures of some of the components. It may help you understand the system and help you diagnose your problem. Please email me and I'll send you a copy. I have mailed it to several people but have received no reply so I do not know if it helped them.

Brad, good to see from ya -fine work you are doing. The CIS pump may not like pumping H20 but is good for 50 psi min. My side Just a few empirical observations and comments 1) Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost" speaks of H20 injection as a poor man's "bandaid" for correct tuning of the A/F mixture. True to a point. but I am a poor man and the cost of RRFPR's, experimental custom FI management systems and the like are out of my price range. I am a DIY'r My H20 injection system serves it's purpose quite well - thank you. I will say I do not sell or make available any components reason: if a person mounts the reservoir above the combustion chamber (with our engine's config this is a problem) Siphoning is a real concern and hydro locking can happen if the nozzle is positioned below the reservoir and no control valve is employed. My system uses a 8 psi trigger pressure switch and is full boat when activated. I have built a dash control for my ignition timing, I can run it on full advance (26 BTDC) at 15 psi with the H20 system. I also have an indicator to tell me when to add H20. I simply retard the timing if it comes on. BTW I only use mid grade petrol. I also employ a CIS cold start injector connected to LP (inverted propane torch type bottle) that is triggered at the same pressure. This may help me run these pressures/advance without detonation?? The key ingredients of the system have been pointed out I will add a very good "atomizer nozzle" is available cheaply from "Mr. Mister" a personal water cooling spray system. Micro fine spray nozzles are available from many sources. Google is you friend. You are advised to use a filter on the H20 pickup - these nozzles clog quite easily. Turbo owners: The pump must be high pressure if you plan to mist downstream of the turbo output - remember the pressure in the intake may be over 10 psi, the pump pressure must "compete" against this pressure. "Shureflo" pumps are very good and have built in pressure controls. I believe one reason for the methanol mix was to prevent freezing of the mixture - I use isopropyl alcohol (meth) in the fall but disconnect and drain the system in the dead of winter. I have been using this system for several years. Good luck and hope this helps

pull a spark plug push about a foot or so of cotton cloths line into the hole leaving the running end hang out. Turn engine untill rope is compressed in cyl Use your impact gun making sure 1) gun is set to spin counter clockwise the bolt is NOT left hand thread 2) gun is set to highest setting 3) air compressor is up to full pressure Note: if you suspect Locktite - a small amount of heat from a propane torch will soften the Locktite's hold. Hope this helps

check the belt tension first

the dash lights slowly coming back to full brilliance tells me ... one of the battery cables has a problem between the cable connector and the cable IF you catch it in this situation again hold the key in the start position for approx. 5 seconds then feel each terminal end of both battery cables the one that is warm to the touch is the culprit. hope this helps

two sets take your pick http://www.westol.com/neper/ecucodes.html http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ hope this helps

https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html wants 63 GWs for each idler pulley (OEM) if you decide to do the H20 pump (highly recco'd) make sure you get the correct shaft length. AC models differ and some parts houses will try to sell you the wrong one. Make sure you get the 0 ring for the rad hose connection pipe. There is a small H20 hose that connects the pump to the heater core pipe - good time to replace it May think about an oil pump reseal while you have it exposed - lifter clack can be due to a compressed mickey mouse gasket (gasket between the pump and the block), there are also two 0 rings.

Try this pict, it may help, you do not give a year and the intake manifold changed in 87 This is the old style http://www.westol.com/neper/colsn.JPG

4wd sometimes takes a few revolutions of the wheels to engage and can be engaged evan if the light on the dash is not illuminated. Sure sounds like you have tires that are not exactly the same rolling circumference. (read slightly different diameters) They should be all the same size AND manufacturer. Do not use 4wd on any surface that has enough traction to prevent tire slippage. The front and rear wheels are essentially locked together when in 4wd. They do not travel the same distance when rounding curves, so one set must slip to prevent tranfer case binding. I have an article I wrote on trouble shooting and repair of the Subaru push button 4wd system. I can email it to you if you email me and request it. (click on my name and select "send email") Welcome to THE board and hope this helps some.

Bob, why not use the factory installed one? The same one you could have used to see if the 02 sensor needed replaced? Try "ECU Codes" in the search box.

You gents are giving very good reference info but you may have missed woHoo saying "ok good, thanks a lot. yea apparently somebody knew what they were doing, the rear diff is gone."

I am also skeptical of rweedy's statement repeatedly that only one wheel will spin. I have on my lot a 94 Legacy 4EAT AWD and a 00 2.5 RS 5 speed. If I use a scissors jack to jack one front wheel off the ground (positioned sideways to make tipping easy), if what he says is true - neither car will push itself off the jack when put in gear. Does this sound like a fair test?

Hey Guys, Come on now, git yer chit in one bowl and make this gig. Don't "pull a Skip" and miss it (even if means a possible divorce, remember he doesn't have to live with her) IF you do, Paul will not let you live it down and will chastise you for all your daze on the board. Wish I lived closer. I'd luv to promise to blow this one into the weeds. Good luk, and please post about the aftermath.

Witte, did this years ago to his 87 wagon Put in a custom rad infront of the core support. He was working on a custom FI system when he moved out of NM. He was selling it ??

My guess is two or more of the rubber lines to the fuel tank are connected incorrectly. The fuel return line to the tank (as it enters the tank under the gasoline level) and the tank vapor line appear to be swapped.

May have had nothing to do with the MAF change. SPFI cars are known for the IAC valve sticking. Try cleaning it. Do a search for IAC (Idle Air Control) or Idle Control Valve been many many posts on it.

Keith, It is possible that after the clutch change the cable was not properly adjusted. This could allow a small amount of clutch slippage while cruising, thus heating the pp, flywheel and clutch plate and cause the chatter you are experiencing. Does the pedal have a small amount of free play at the top of it's travel? If not please do a search for clutch adjustment you will find many posts on the procedure. Hope this helps.

Fannie, I also am fortunate enough to drive an 89 GL-10 AWD, 4EAT, turbo, lux-0-cruiser, she is sweet but I implore you, do not take a test drive in a Legacy..... I recently had the fortune to purchase a 94 AWD Legacy GT wagon -- repeat do not take a test drive in a Legacy. Save the money and fix your GL-10 proper. Good luck and long live the GL-10s

I run a duel exhaust with a "Y" connection. The "Y" joins another "Y" to form the rear duel connection point. This system, shown in the link below, with a Weber 32/36 has remarkable low, mid, and top end. Note: I have three Brats to compare with. http://www.westol.com/neper/duelexh.JPG

Folks, all well and good info here but Subaru engineers were nice enough to equip our cars with an oxygen monitor. Why not put it to use? No voltmeter needed, no connections, no problems. The O2 sensors on our cars do produce a voltage but as has been pointed out it is either rich or lean. As pointed out by our good friend Al Savage,and proved with several articles (and up to that point unbeknowst to me) they do not show degrees of richness or leaness (real word??) To see a degree reading, or a true stoichiometric ratio, one needs a wide band 02 monitor (new Hondas have them and kits and units are available) so our the 02 monitor is just a light triggered by a close to 1 volt output. on =rich off = lean It will stobe at a freq of about once every couple of seconds when the 02 sensor is working. If no strobe it is not funtioning. Always off. They do get tired and should be replaced at about timing belt intervals (60 kmi.) Where is this mystery light - on the ECU it also funtions as the code reader light. I would disconnect the A/F meter and watch it (engine must be in closed loop i.e. warmed up) If at idle it comes on and goes off, on, off.... then reconnect the meter making sure it's wired properly. See if it changes. I have three turbo cars with A/F meters, none disturb the strobe freq. As a side note exhaust systems do have ground problems. I connect an ECU ground directly to the body of the 02 sensor with a fuel line hose clamp. Hope this helps.