Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

ocei77

Members
  • Posts

    1098
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by ocei77

  1. The spring portion of the T stat goes into the block side. Should only fit one way(as the oem/stant 48457 will be too long to go in incorrectly). Would only use either of the aforementioned T stats. O.
  2. It's in the Engine Mechanical section: Valve Clearance Valve clearance Intake: 0.20+0.04 0.06 mm (0.0079+0.0016 0.0024 in) Exhaust: 0.35 +/- 0.05 mm (0.0138 +/- 0.0020 in) • O.
  3. Get a Gates belt. The difference in cost is worth it in piece of mind. O.
  4. The only thing forgotten, is the brakes will be a limiting factor in some ways. The Brighton came with drums in the rear. O.
  5. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2310341 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126283-p0440-evap-issue/ Ran into these from my old favorites, O.
  6. Advance Auto, NAPA and others sell packs of them. Never measured. O.
  7. Rust is not only affected by the salt roads, but also by where one parks. Over concrete etc is one condition, but over grass/soil generates more moisture and helps rust to form. O.
  8. The 440 is a catchall. Most of the times, it's not a low input, but no ouput. The terminals corrode allowing very little flow or just break completely. Other times , the hose becomes loose or develops a pinhole. Inspection is the only way to be sure. O.
  9. Knock sensor. By both I hope you mean O2 sensors. Do the front first, clear codes. Bank 1 sensor 1 is the front unit, sensor 2 is the rear. O.
  10. See attached. Download fsm: See New Gen FAQ sticky, page 2 under my name for link. O. Vent Solenoid.pdf
  11. If the gas cap does not fix it, look at the vent solenoid. The wires there are exposed and sometimes rust through. Do you get the whoosh when you open you gas cap? O,
  12. Opposed forces doesn't list it in their usage info as the same. So probably not. You can do search in car-part.com to see what choices it gives, to double check. O.
  13. Don't remember my 07 pistons being marked L and R. Once the rings are attached per fsm, the A piston has to go into the A bore regardless of any conflicting L/R as a B would leave too much gap in an A bore. O.
  14. The dots face forward. Place the pistons accordingly. The A piston should go in the A cylinder. O.
  15. If you are sure the crank and cam sensors are attached, I would look at the gas. Having a similar issue with a rebuilt ej25d, and it's been sitting outside for about 3 mos. Sprayed carb cleaner in the intake and it wants to catch, but.... On way now to siphon the 1/4 of tank in there and put a few gallons of premium in to get it running. O.
  16. Not sure of previous maintenance, but the tb interval is up if original(which includes the idlers). At the most it's 100 months or 100k miles. Some were 60 months /60K.. Other items as needed O.
  17. Or, just add wood to the dollies on both sides to go under the cyl. heads. O.
  18. There are spring clips holding them. Use a plastic pry bar or cover your screwdriver with cloth. O.
  19. It is indeed a DIY repair. 2 10mm bolts on top of the head and the hose clamps that go to the throttle body and water pump. You will probably have to loosen the dip stick bolt as you have to wiggle the pipe in and out. O.
  20. One other possibilty, a failing water pump. With 230 on the clock, it's due. Do the leakdown test. If it passes, then it's the pump. O.
  21. Will have to check when I get back to my garage, I have to refresh my memory by looking at the one I have loose. Perhaps someone with an Impreza will chime in before I get back with the answer. O.
×
×
  • Create New...