carfreak85

In case anyone is doing research on this topic in the future, here is how I fixed the problem. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152674-ea82-pedal-box-into-ea81/?do=findComment&comment=1278581 From this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152674-ea82-pedal-box-into-ea81/

Better tires will do more to improve braking than just about any other modification. I've done everything you can do besides installing larger rotors on the front and my Yokohama A048s have done more than stainless braided lines, track pads, nice rotors or rear discs.

I gotta ask, why did you use road speed on the x-axis instead of engine speed?

No problem Crazyeights. Now, just becasue there are known problems doesn't mean that every engine will have trouble. For the EJ205 example. We have owned our 2002 WRX since new and the bearing started letting go at about 80k miles on the stock engine, finally failing around 90-95k. My close friend bought a one owner, modified 2002 WRX wagon that had rod knock around 120k miles. Yet another friend bought ANOTHER, unmodified 2002 WRX from an additional original owner, but sold it just shy of 200k miles with zero signs of rod knock (It DID seem down on power... His '94 touring wagon was nearly as fast, despite being down almost 90 HP). The first friend replaced the EJ205 shortblock with a hybrid setup (EJ205 heads, EJ257 shortblock) got it all fixed and popped a ring land on the brand new shortblock (His car was far from stock however). Why all the bearing trouble? It is a bit of a perfect storm. Subaru spec'ed the rod bearings too tightly in the EJ205 and government fuel economy standards have driven manufacturers to use low viscosity oils in their factory fills. Moral of the story? USE GOOD OIL! Shell Rotella T6 is widely available (Walmart, NAPA, etc) and endorsed by many engine builders. I have had great sucess with Redline synthetic oils. The rule of thumb is to use oil with good HTHS (high temperature, high shear) properties. LOTS of info on bearing failures, pickup failures and which oils to use on NASIOC.

I hate to say it, but pretty much any of the USDM factory EJ-turbo cars (and by extension, any homebrewed N/A turbos) will see an oiling problem at some point. EJ205 - Spun bearings (Usually on cyl. #3) <-- Personal experience x2 EJ25X - broken oil pickup, starved bearings (broken ring lands too [personal experience x1]) <-- beat the crack, replaced with Killer-B pickup

2002 WRX, drive-by-cable. Battery was connected, car was running when it happened.

Banjo bolt screens Oil pickup tube Cracked ring lands Aaaaand GO!

I had one fellow on NASIOC suggest that it could be an IAC gasket issue, but I don’t have any sort of idle problems. The engine has only misbehaved during the coolant burp procedure.

My WRX front bearings aren't sealed...

What is TSB?

Fixed...

I had to solve this problem late last year. After owning my 5-speed swapped EA81 for 10 years, replacing the pedal box, transmission mounts and clutch cable all conspired to reveal that there wasn't enough throw in the clutch pedal to fully disengage the clutch. I had not known this for 10 years, due to the amount of slop in the system. After fretting about the situation and reading some of what jono had already posted, I decided the simplest solution would be to extend the throw of the original EA81 clutch pedal. EA81 in the foreground, EA82 in the background. Cut and ready to extend. EA82 lever arm welded to an EA81 pedal. Ignore my ugly weld. This was incredibly simple once the measuring and cutting is finished. I would suggest going this route for simplicity's sake. Less modification means less chance for error.

Yes, although it was hard to hear over the exhaust.

After replacing my radiator I started with a distilled water/white vinegar mix, then three rounds of water flushes. On the water flushes I used the factory-preferred method and had some pretty interesting results. Before I explain what happened, let me tell you what did NOT happen:The engine did not overheat. The temp gauge didn't budge above normal at all after reaching operating temperature. I attribute this to massaging the radiator hoses a whole bunch before capping the system each time.The check engine lamp never came on. As in, not once. Not even a flicker.I did not change throttle position at all when the phenomena began, until noted in the video.It was repeatable enough to happen on three consecutive "burps." So, what did happen? About 6 or 7 minutes into my 10 minute burp procedure, I would lose control of the throttle. Mind you, this is a drive-by-cable throttle, and I hadn't changed the throttle position at all. When this happened the rpms would drop down to about 1,250, then up to 1,750 rpm and repeat until I either floored the throttle, or backed out and let the engine idle. What the hell is going on?

False. Datsun 510s and Z cars use R160s. Hence why they steal our LSDs! Not sure about the earlier Roadsters or later ZXs.

And all the transfer gears, layshaft and bearing in the transmission too.

I think anyone interested in getting the most out of their brakes, 4-lug or 5-lug, should read this article. http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-pads/post/choose-brake-pads Where did you pick them up from, if you don't mind my asking?

Whereabouts in Bellevue are you located? We should do a mini-meet some time.

Wait, if the brakes don't stop very good, how can you lock up the tires, or even panic stop? Bleed your brakes. Inspect your calipers for sticking slides or pistons. It is not a design flaw from Subaru, it is you. Holy run-on sentence Batman! If you "dident get them as a upgrade so im not disapointed they where just cheap maybe $20 more than the cheapest set ups", then why spend the extra $20 at all? Spelling and grammer check. It's a thing.

I remember seeing you driving around Bellingham on the gold Enkeis back when I was in school. Great looking RX man, suuuuper clean!

Can you describe in a little more detail what needs to be done? I might be able to help you out.

I've got a loose N/A cam from Delta Cam, but it has a modified lobe profile, etc.

As per the 1984 service manual: Int opens: 16* btdc Int closes: 68*abdc Ext opens: 68*bbdc Ext closes: 20* atdc No word on lift.

Make sure to get numbers for an unmodified head too. As a side note to anyone who reads this thread in the future, simply turning up the boost is a far more economical way to increase engine output on a turbocharged car. Porting can net good gains for a relatively small investment on naturally aspirated engines, but in turbocharged engines, since air is being forced into vs. drawn into the engine, the shape and "straightness" of the inlet ports matters less. Not that there aren't gains to be had. The entire line of FHI engines, save for an honorable mention to the SVX, have pretty ugly intake and exhaust tracts. It's just the nature of the engine layout. It's hard for a manufacturer to sacrifice the packaging necessary to have proper intake plenums and straight ports on any production vehicle. The EA63-81 engines probably have a N/A volumetric efficiency of around 74 to 80 percent. EA82s might peek into the 80s, especially with a "spider" intake manifold. But with the EA81T/82T/EJXXXT engines, you can cheat the compromised engine design a good bit (for refrence, some N/A engines are able to achieve over one hundred percent volumetric efficiency. To contrast, not many engines score below 60 to 70 percent, showing just how bad the EA engines really are.) As far as what you should aim to improve on these heads? Definitely unshroud those valves. You'll want to knife edge the ridge in the intake port, same with the exhaust splitter. In fact, if you could extend the wall of the exhaust side, it would improve the scavenging effect of the exhaust pulses. Also on the intake side, try to make the port as straight as possible with as little material removed as possible. If you can match the profile of the valve guide to its boss, that will help the flow, but be careful not to damage the guide. You may also consider a five-angle valve job done, since the heads will be off the block. These heads, along with just about every other cylinder head FHI has ever cast, can and often do crack between the valve seats. I hesitate to remove material from just about everywhere because of this. Another thing to avoid is excessive polishing of the ports. Keeping the port walls relatively rough will produce a boundary layer between the port wall and the gas column, and will actually help speed up the flow of air into the cylinders, incrementally improving the engine's volumetric efficiency. All that said, you can't really fix the fact that this engine is going to flow like crap no matter what you do to the heads. Turn up the boost and fix what breaks next once you get it back together.

For the record, I ended up using an EA82 flywheel with five pounds of material removed from the outside radius of the flywheel. Works great and is cheaper/easier to find and modify than an XT6 flywheel.