Numbchux

Overdue update..... Transmission was "rebuilt" (all the labor, only 1st gear clutches were replaced) by a buddy, and new output shaft installed. Toyota tcase bolted up to it, and in the truck (sitting on the stock crossmember, so 2" too low, and the front hanging on straps). Toyota shifter and center console removed. yea, really looks like I'll be able to use the toyota shifter (as my truck was an auto). sweet! 4Crawler 2" body lift is installed. Also got 2" motor mount spacers with it to raise the engine/transmission a bit. Spent some time this week, and put the engine in. Looks like I need different motor mounts.....and possibly some hood clearance.... But, with the 2" drivetrain lift, the oil pan clears the front diff just fine. pics:

that's what an 02 sensor is for. if you think you're fuel mixture is off, replace the sensor. your tail pipe is way too short, and pointed right at the bumper. I'm surprised it didn't set fire sooner

nice side skirts

if you keep the part-time 4wd, 30mpg+ is definitely possible. my loyale, with the FT4WD box in it, never got above about 27.

wiring diagram for an EA82 instrument cluster. this is how I've gotten it in the past: http://numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf

awesome. actually makes me sad that I'm not driving my 4EAT XT6....huh...never thought I'd say that good work!

got home a couple days ago, but still recovering. Our driver/owner, Carl, just posted a write-up with a bunch of pictures and a video from the event.

I got a rear diff drop block from him years ago. great quality. I've also seen a couple of his adapter plates. mmmmmmm Everything I've seen of his looks great. and the best part, is he's using his cars, and changing/improving his products to optimize them (for cost and functionality).

it all depends how thorough of a job you want to do, and how much your parts cost. And those are HUUUUGGGEEEEEE variables. Let's assume you get a working donor car with the motor and transmission parts you need. Here's what I would buy/have bought and how much it costs (looked these all up just now. shipping not included). Timing set w/ water pump. PCI set from ebay. ~$125 Crank/Cam seals. smallcar.com. $30 (12 for crank, 9ea for cam) Beck/Arnley clutch kit from rockauto. $200 I charge $250 for the harness modification figure $50 in hoses. another $50 in fluids. ~50 or so in an aftermarket slim fan. probably $100 for the driveshaft modification tranny xmember will require custom fabbing, so that might add to the cost. EJ shift linkage will probably be pretty close to what you need. front axles. suspension/brake setup. EPIC variables there, so I'll ignore it for now. So, for all that...$855, plus cost of the donor, plus shipping. Of course, there's $350ish in maintenence parts that would not necessarily need to be replaced. but I would not recommend doing all the work of the swap and leaving old parts in there.

convert your hubs to 6-lug. or sell them (they have value. if you were local to me, I'd pay for 'em), and buy some steelies that can be converted.

We'll be there with #171 Open Class 2004 Subaru STi. I'm crew chief....stop in and say hi if anyone here is there. I usually wear my USMB shirt to parc expose one day or the other.

you need to nail down your power goals if you're even slightly serious about this. This is ALWAYS step one in an automotive build. eagle and wiseco are similar quality, which is better than stock, but only just. External dimensions of EJ-series shortblocks are near enough to identical. as a rule (there are some exceptions, but not many), the intake manifold has to match the heads. So yes, you definitely could take a 257 shortblock, and throw it in place of your 25D block. bolt on the heads, intake, etc. also the 25D heads flow very well, and the passenger side one has pretty obvious places in the casting that can be drilled/tapped for your oil lines relatively easily. The build you're talking about is possible, and has been done. but I wouldn't call it reliable (beyond about 10k miles) at more than 250hp. a stock 257 block can take much more than that. and you're probably talking about similar cost. when you consider the parts and labor for this hybrid build v. buying a complete and stock 257 block, but of course there are a lot of cost variables depending on your parts sources.

if you want true 4x4. you have to use an EA-series transmission. which will promptly blow up unless you drive like an old woman. although the DCCD in full-lock mode is close enough. do it right, and get a 6MT.

There will be some machining involved to use a phase 2 crank in the phase 1 bock (thrust bearing is moved from #3 to #5). But why replace the crank? if you're assuming the block is usable, than you're assuming the crank is too. What kind of horsepower are you looking at making? You're talking about a pretty peculiar build. spend the money on CP pistons, but then cheap out and use Eagle rods and a 25D block. IMHO, if you're only shooting for 200-250, use wisecos. if you're looking for more than that, put your CPs in a full 257 shortblock. water pump is interchangeable as far as the block is concerned. coolant bridge is also interchangeable, and independent of the water pump

http://www.rallitek.com/ might want to find a different name.

Nice! a freshly installed lift is a great feeling

yea, get a new, all metal, 2 core one from http://www.usaradiator.com I've used their single-core on a couple EJ swaps, and I really like them. I'm thinking of using their 2-core one on my XT6 (since nobody makes them for the XT...).

I think I'd start with the rod ends. if you've got a little play in one, it could allow your toe to change a bit on one side.

EJ Y-pipes are only marginally better. real unequal length header:

^yea, about 60hp and 80tq over the turbo 4-cyl that was in this truck. should be plenty. yea, more power is possible, but I don't see myself needing it. Did some more work today. Got the trans/tcase/sway bar/driveshafts out of the 4runner. I had suspected while laying under there that the chain driven tcase behind the auto tranny was thicker, and that the rear output flange was therefore further back. Well...got the driveshaft out, and laid it next to the spare that I pulled from the 5MT donor truck I parted out a couple years ago: so, regardless of where the tcase ends up, I've got a rear shaft to fit it. Front will still have to be lengthened if the tcase gets pushed back, but that's not the end of the world. looks like I should be able to make the stock shift linkage work with the new trans. so I'll just have to cut a hole for the tcase shifter. also, bolted the adapter up to the tcase. "AA" was cast into the side of the case....I thought it was pretty cool. until I realized it prevented the installation of 2 of the mounting bolts. so, a minute with the grinder was necessary. That's ok, a simple, yet major, oversight like that makes me less encouraged to advertise for them anyway I might try to swap the tranny output shaft myself tonight. I've been studying the FSM.... tcase crossmember: huh...I wonder why toyotas have such mediocre breakover clearance :-\ budbuilt low profile crossmember will be ordered next.

sure it will. as long as you weren't planning on using the turbo and you'd have some clearance issues with the crossmember. that's the more common EJ N/A exhaust setup. the Y-pipe design used on EAs and first gen legacies is the exception. and no, stock N/A exhaust doesn't yield much of a rumble. you need very unequal length headers to do that (one side is double the length of the other on a borla header).

Ziptie Rally will be running our #171 out at STPR this year. we've got reservations at a campground, but rumor has it the owner(s) are not rally-friendly. So, we're looking for a cheap place to stay in that part of the world, probably June 1-6....any ideas would be appreciated.

I ran a NAPA reman'd axle on the ChuxWagon for it's first trip. with a 2" difference between diff and hub.....it blew up (seriously, the DOJ cup exploded) less than 24 hours after purchase. replaced with a re-booted OEM axle that I got at the junkyard, which lasted the 2 years until I sold the car.

I wouldn't worry about that angle on OEM axles, but remans, and horspower.....yikes. carry a few spares!

here in the US. you need a Full-time 4WD D/R 5MT from a Subaru RX, Which is usually a 3.7. And then put a 4.111 front pinion shaft and center diff from a newer gen subaru in it.