Numbchux

It seems like it should be possible. The left side turbo and piping completely interferes with the steering shaft, brake booster, and clutch master. Subaru engines are offset, the right side head is further forward than the left. It doesn't seem like much, but where there's plenty of room for the turbo, steering shaft, etc. on the right side (even if it's only a single turbo), there really isn't on the left. The only time I've seen it successfully done, is with a ~4" lift, and several extra U-joints in the steering shaft to get it to go out and around the turbo (I wish I could find that build thread). IMO, if you're putting that in a LHD car, that engine is a donor block only. The exhaust, intake, intercooler, turbos, ecu, etc. is all basically scrap (the market is flooded with those parts from all the other people converting to single turbo....it has virtually no value). You'll still have to rebuild the bottom end, have the heads checked, and source single-turbo parts. $400 is decent, but keep in mind, that is very much the tip of the iceberg to turn that into a working engine. It would probably be a similar cost, and considerably more reliable to get everything from one car that is already single turbo (I highly recommend the ECU/Wiring from a GD WRX for it's price/tuneability)

Twin turbos do not fit (almost at all, it's been done, but requires considerable modification) in LHD cars. And they're not terribly powerful, not generally considered worth the trouble. If it's a great deal, you could use a standalone, or ECU/harness from a GD WRX to convert to more modern management, and single turbo parts would give you more peak power, more usable power, and less complexity.

I crossed the jumper cables on my '88 XT6 once.....fried the fusible link and ECU.

Yep....that was exactly the point I was making. The individual bearings are the same part number. But neither the individuals or sets are available from Subaru

They are indeed the same. Not interchangeable....the same part number. Which have no availability in the US warehouses, marked as not ordereable, and no dealers using Partseye have in stock. (This is all for the OEM bearings). Maybe Lithia has some other source, but I've got a guy standing next to me that's been in Subaru parts since the '70s, and we have no way to get those.... And I tried part numbers for the complete sets, and the individuals in standard sizes.

You are in a very tough spot. If I were in that position, I'd put a 2.2 in it, no question. But, I'd be doing it myself, I'm very comfortable buying a donor car or engine. If your car is a manual transmission, I wouldn't change anything other than the engine. Leave all the body, suspension, transmission, radiator, etc. Just get an engine, wiring, ecu, adapter plate, and a new clutch. Then enjoy more power (you don't have to drive it hard to appreciate it, it's so noticeable across the entire rpm range and how much less the engine has to work), more reliability, and better mileage (that, of course, depends on several factors, but generally has been my experience). But, since you'd be having someone do it, you need to find that person. The expertise/labor is what's going to drive up the cost. I could pretty easily scare up all the parts for $1k, but a shop that's completely unprepared will drive up the labor costs. A specialty shop is going to charge a premium hourly rate, but probably do a much better job in much less time. A person with the right combination of equipment, space, time, and knowledge could easily get it done for you for less than your EA82 rebuild.

I have a lot of respect that do anything interesting and different. And honestly, the EJ swap is neither. It's all well-documented, reliable, cheap, easy, yawn. In all seriousness, I have a lot of respect for the people that want to do builds with EAs, but I don't understand it. Here are my thoughts. Now I agree, it's not for everyone. And I'd love to see some aftermarket support for the EAs, and I love seeing people do builds on them. But just my thoughts on some of your points, from someone who's done it a few times....

Yep, IF it wasn't run/stored with coolant in the oil, the bottom end is probably fine. But since you bought it that way, you have no way of knowing. I would pull it apart, and visually inspect bearings and rings/cylinder walls. If things aren't too scored up, I'd throw a quick DIY hone on the cylinder walls, assemble with new bearings and rings, and run it. Also, I assume the ER27 heads have the same "problem" as the EA82 heads where they get surface cracks that have fooled many a reputable machine shop. As long as they pass a pressure test, don't worry about the cracks.

Yea, and when I had it done, they had to mill the flanges down to accept standard diameter tube (still cheaper than getting metric tube). It was $150ish 8 years ago or so.

Good luck. I wish you the best, but I can't help feel like you're in way over your head. Getting a legal cage in there, with an STi swap, and suspension that can withstand Baja abuse....$10k isn't going to scratch the surface. And even still, it'll probably be about as successful as Bill Caswell's Baja Pig (Broken steering a few miles from the start line). Please don't take offense, I wish you the best of luck, and I will be watching. I'm just thinking realistically, with my experience with stage rally (Helped build a GC for Rally-America, and that was a LOT of off-the-shelf parts, engine, transmission, tubular suspension components, coilovers, etc. etc.).

rear what? There are a lot of components in the rear, and almost all of them have failed at some point.....

Badass. Maybe not exactly as I would have built it, but I didn't. Props for getting it done, and doing it yourself! At first I thought it was a GF Outback Sport. The ride height makes the body look small. What size tires are on there?

Welcome! This has been covered hundreds if not thousands of times here. There are stickies, writeups, build threads, etc. There are probably a dozen specific ways to do it. Short version is, most of the front will work, almost none of the rear will without EXTREME fabrication. You will need 4WD XT6 rear hubs.

What are your goals with the Brat?! That's more important than your engine options. The EJ25D will not fit in the engine bay as-is, the DOHC heads make the engine too wide. What I'm saying, is I vote 1UZ

Yep, I saw that. I'm wondering how long it's been driven after you picked it up EA82s do not use taper roller bearings in the front like most automotive wheel bearings. You can have noise without play. Good news is they're cheap to buy, and not terribly difficult to replace. Low range thing is a problem, and I'm really not sure what exactly would cause that. Just brainstorming here....There's a rod coming straight from that shift lever to the back of the transmission. In the rear of the transmission it engages the rear driveline. Once moved through the 4WD position, it pushes on a second linkage that travels externally along the transmission to a lever near the bellhousing that shifts the low range. I actually have 2 D/Rs apart in my basement right now, and I just went and played with the mechanisms. The only place I see that it could bind is in the synchros for lo range. That said, I had a '94 Legacy that we could not get into 2nd gear when we first drove it (was a flood salvage...couldn't test drive initially). 3 Quarts of Castrol HypoyC 80w90 and one quart of Rislone Engine Treatment (yes, you read that right, engine treatment), and we got another 100k miles out of that car (280k total, death by rust). I would try that, and see if that helps. The low range gearset is in a place that it would be dry while sitting, so it might have some corrosion on it, and a good fluid change could help drastically.

Technically, they are not lifters.....they are hydraulic lash adjusters. And in my experience, they prefer thinner oil. Your oil pressure readings sound good, so I wouldn't mess with the pump, for now. I would throw some sea foam in the oil for a hundred miles or so, and then do an oil change back to 10w30. That should clean things out quite a bit. How long has it been driven since it was sitting? Those HLAs tend to stick after sitting. I've had a few EA82s, and an ER27 that sat for awhile and made a nasty racket. After a few oil changes, they quieted down considerably. Grinding noise from the wheel pretty much has to be either pads or wheel bearing. A caliper will cause issues, and may have killed one or both of the pads, but will not directly cause grinding. I couldn't believe how much better my first '88 drove once getting that bad wheel bearing out of it! That could be a major cause of your power/mileage issues. While on paper, loosing 50hp but also 500 lbs or so going from the Legacy to the GL sounds like it shouldn't be that bad, but the way the EA82 delivers it's 90 hp is pathetic compared to the EJs. They are VERY slow. But, you should definitely be able to get better than 20mpg. I second pulling the outer timing belt covers and making sure the cam timing is spot on, and checking the ignition timing. I'll second 175eya's question of whether you can get into 4WD Hi OK, and not Lo. Even though they are on the same control lever, the Hi/Lo and 4WD mechanisms are very different. I can see having an issue preventing shifting into 4WD. But if that works, I don't see a likely way that Hi/Lo wouldn't. There is an adjustment in the linkage between the 4WD part and the Lo range lever, but it shouldn't have to be adjusted except when initially assembling the transmission. It should shift just as smoothly and easily as any other gear.

I'm pretty sure that's exactly how the lower portion of the stock BE/BH legacy belt is held in. I don't think it would be any less safe. That said, I'm not sure how it would work in "legally". But I'm pretty sure if you got in a major accident, and the insurance company found out there were 5 people in a car rated for 4.....you'd probably be denied coverage, and/or dropped. I'm normally not opposed to modifying something to better suit a person's needs. But I don't think I would do that one....

Nice, that looks like it would be a close fit. I'd make a bracket using the other 2 bolt holes to support that heim double-shear.....those captive nuts are not terribly sturdy individually.

GD STis have a wider track and therefore longer axles than most EJs. Nico. You should use or make adjustable/longer leading rods to improve your caster too. Maybe with some heim joints on the inside. Seems a shame to spend all the time and money on lightweight aluminum arms to still have to fight that bushing for suspension movement.

Yep, it certainly could be just the tire. In fact, I'm sure the tire is definitely lower-quality. But whether the wheel is as well, or not, is too difficult to prove either way.

The shape and thickness is not the whole story (although interesting). The quality of the steel used is also important. I have seen EJ subaru temporary steelies used for ice racing. 2 bent up at the first snowbank (was a pretty good hit, but I've seen regular steelies hold up to similar many times). Not really any way to document whether they are truly strong "enough" for use. They were not intended for long term use. There are hundreds of stories of people using them without trouble. But even still, not for me. 6-lug swap is too easy.

Well, if the pump is working, and the rack is working, and the lines are hooked up correctly, than it would work.... Which line is blowing out? Sounds like you've got pressure where there shouldn't be, so either the valving in the rack is screwed up, or the lines are backwards.

I don't think I ever posted this. I'm sure most of you will recognize the car, but about a year and a half ago, a couple very close friends of mine went to Iceland for a week......and look what they bumped into up in the mountains: That's actually my friends' rental Suzuki next to it. They got to talk to the guy for awhile. As we've all suspected, there's nothing Subaru underneath. It's all Land Rover Whole gallery, if you're interested: http://www.sieglerphoto.com/Travel/Iceland-2013/i-z2W2DSZ

The bolt patterns are very similar. So you're not drilling completely new holes, but just slotting them a bit. I shoot some paint through an EJ flexplate or flywheel onto the EA82 flywheel to get an idea, and then a high-speed cutting bit for a dremel, usually requires a couple test-fits.

I don't think I posted it, but the crash that got me the car so cheap also damaged the diff. Weirdly, the only symptom was an uncontrollable gear oil leak due to the excessive play in the output shaft. No vibrations or noises at all. But, it chewed up the seal there, and had gotten to the point where it would leak out all but about a quart of it's gear oil in a matter of minutes. I'd put a quart or so in it before driving home from work twice a week, just in hopes to keep the bearings happy until I could replace the transmission. 2 weeks ago, I got an S51 trans out of a '99 4-cyl Camry (virtually identical to the Celica's S53, mostly just different gearing). This week I bought a new clutch and output shaft seals from AutoZone, and this weekend....I got to work. Boy do I hate doing major work on transverse cars. But, I got it done, and when I did, I put the Rotas on there, washed it, and went for a drive