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Crazyeights

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Everything posted by Crazyeights

  1. I have had two of them apart. One was the standard 1988 EA82 D/R and the other was a 1987 RX D/R with Full time 4WD and center diff lock. Both of them got bearings and all the seals, the D/R got 1st and 2nd gear synchros too. Just go slow and follow the factory service manual procedures to a "T". There used to be some really good right-ups on here with pictures. Putting the tail section back on and lining up the internal linkage takes some patience as does setting the backlash properly. I have lots of good pictures of mine apart if you need them.
  2. I may be one of the very few but I have an EA82T wagon and I really like it. Granted I am a tech and do all of my own work. I have well over 200k on mine and it still gets me to work every day and gets good mileage too. I bought a low mileage JDM import engine for the car when you could still get them along with a full gasket set and a new oil pump. I figured the engine would blow right after I bought the car (I knew what I was buying) and it still just keeps on running. It doesn't make lots of power but I don't ask much of it either. One day it will blow a head gasket and I'll re-seal my other put my other engine and put that in. The turbo makes the EA82 fun to drive instead of a struggle. I also have three other EA series wagons with two of them EJ22 swapped. The EJ swap makes them a totally different car.
  3. Take an air chisel and punch holes in the rear of the block to access the bolts. The block is scrap anyway. This has worked many times and is really quick.
  4. Best option is probably to rebuild what you have. Contrary to common belief it can still be done with some patience in getting parts. I wouldn't even bother with an EA82. If your going to swap the engine then put an EJ22 in it. This will be quite a bit more time and trouble than fixing what you have. At 200k miles you are just getting started with an EA81
  5. You will just have to be patient and persistent. I have one of them working on my car and a spare one that came on a JDM engine (not for sale) and they both work. I have passed by several of these in the pick-n-pull yards too. Right after you give up looking for one it will turn up
  6. Another option is the fuel pump inertia (or impact) switch used on older 90's Ford products. They almost never fail so the junkyards are full of them for cheap. Grab the connector with it. It is a simple 2 wire hook up.
  7. You might try an EA82 pump as I think it's possible that only the mounting bracket is different between the EA82 and EA81T pumps. It's worth a look anyway. I have both here so I'll compare them and get back to you if I can find them in storage.
  8. I was able to buy that valve from the dealer a few years ago when I did the heater core on my '83 and I'm glad I did. Your right though it was pricey. You might be able to bypass it and run a different heater control valve out under the hood. Just be careful as those hoses run right down by your legs inside. You don't want to get burned by scalding hot antifreeze when driving down the road if something fails.
  9. Thank you for this thread. I just ordered some of these.
  10. I think using the EA71 is a great idea. You should be able to give it a little boost with a carb and still get great mileage too.
  11. Try filling up the radiator and pressure testing the cooling system. If you don't have a pressure tester and can't borrow one try running the car at idle with the radiator full and the cap on. Watch for any leaks as the pressure starts to build up in the cooling system.
  12. It has been my experience that it only takes 1 fault code to turn on 3 different warning lights on some of the newer cars. I have seen this on newer Hondas and Subarus. I think you'll need a code reader to find out what's up. Harbor Freight has a scan tool that does ABS and OBD II.
  13. Now that you mention it I have that big iron monster but it is the EA82 V-Belt design. I wonder if it's the same bracket as the Spyder one. Hmmm...
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