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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. Less plastics and metal material used to produce the car compared to those of today’s vehicles. Even if the factories were more polluting you’re using less resources to make the car in the first place. They’re also much easier to recycle at end of life than a modern vehicle (don’t even look at EVs for the recycling aspect yet!). My EA81 brumby pulls great fuel mileage for a vehicle of its age. I put a bit of this down to good roads that can maintain cruise speeds for longer with generally less gradients to climb. My 2c on that anyway. Cheers Bennie
  2. SPFI or carby fed EA82? Carby has a little vacuum diaphragm that pulls on the throttle to increase revs. I’m not familiar enough with SPFI to tell you what does the idle up. MPFI uses a little solenoid on the side of the throttle body, but I think this only applies for the turbo EA82 and NA XT4 models in the USDM. We got the NA MPFI as an option in our touring wagons. Cheers Bennie
  3. I’d be more worried about the rod knock... Seems this vehicle needs a fair bit of work on top of what you’ve already dropped into it. Are Subarus money pits? No, not usually for “normal use”. If you’re into modifying and going faster they certainly can be. This one will obviously need a new engine at some point in time, so factor in that cost. If you want to keep this vehicle it could be a good time to learn how to DIY the work needed to be done. Cheers Bennie
  4. Yep, they go on those two bolts that hold the fuel rails on the intake. Cheers Bennie
  5. Could just be the age of the fuel pump not being up to the job. If you can, I’d be looking into getting a new pump. Cheers Bennie
  6. I hope things keep looking up for your sweet ride mate! Cheers Bennie
  7. So no issue with the low oil level? Winning! Love the targa tops! I’m hoping mine will look as good as yours one day! Cheers Bennie
  8. Yeah mate, I’m at 530,000km from memory. Y pipe rusted out so dad shoved a Gen3 equal length unit on and she sounds like spoob so I’m failing at building a set of UELs for her. Exhaust shops make it look easy! And I have a leak in the front somewhere, dunno if it’s doors or Subi gods forbid, from the windscreen ;( Long live the L’s! Cheers Bennie
  9. Good move mate! Move always wanted a car in a “burnt orange” colour. Originally it was my LC torana but that never eventuated. I’m wanting to keep my brumby relatively original enough, so it’ll stay red (I’m thinking the new XV red would look sweet!). Get into that rust and go from there! Cheers Bennie
  10. Really? Don’t let GD get you down, just stick with your plan and go for it. Everything you’re doing is reversible so if there are some unforeseen issues you can review and return to stock if needed. I love the L’s, has mine for 15 years now. Unfortunately I haven’t driven her all of last year due to work needed to be done and no shed to work in. Needless to say, she’s highly modified - EJ22, custom gearbox, lift, and other mods for off-roading and living out of the vehicle. Deep down if you’re keen on the vehicle you’ll find your motivation Cheers Bennie
  11. That second solenoid piece you ask about is to do with the purge control I thing. It vents to atmosphere - the little mesh “air cleaner” (for the want of a better name) is broken off. Very common with these but I don’t think it interferes with its operation. Cheers Bennie
  12. I’m not familiar with that part on the EA81 or EA82... Best of luck with it. Go with GD’s suggestion Cheers Bennie
  13. Scratch what I said then - only applicable for the early stuff in the RS turbo and early WRX (V1/2). Must be V3/4 onwards that are wasted spark. Cheers Bennie
  14. @GeneralDisorder - same for an old phase 1 turbo engine, or is a little more finesse required with those? Asking for a friend Cheers Bennie
  15. Run forester diameter tyres, speedo will be correct (unless fuji did something in the cluster between models). Cheers Bennie
  16. No ignitor on the DOHC turbos @Rampage - they’re coil on plug. Ensure you have the coils plugged in/placed correctly. Cheers Bennie
  17. Make sure you have ignition power to the ECU, rather than just power when in the start position. Quick test: put ignition into ON position, check that the ECU has power/is on (CEL should be lit up too). My initial thought as I read your issue. Other one that caught me out is the IACV hose under the intake - make sure it’s connected. If not it will run for several seconds then stall. Cheers Bennie
  18. Looking good mate! Cant wait to hear your report after a test blart on an open track! Cheers Bennie
  19. How do you make something yours when you’ve already had it? And how do you blow it up in two weeks, intentional? Looking forward to seeing where you go with this build. Cheers Bennie
  20. Keep up the good effort mate. I love that colour in the wagons! Cheers Bennie
  21. Trans swap not too involved - just mechanicals, no real wiring to the auto box unless you have one of those crazy four speed autos that ended up in the legacy. Different prop shaft length forward of the centre bearing carrier. Different gearbox crossmember (I think they’re different, can’t remember), different centre piece for the console, clutch pedal assembly, flywheel and clutch swap, different starter motor. Would need to check spline count of the diff output stub axles to ensure you’ve got the matching units. Doable though. As for it not running right, start with the cam timing - when crank is lined up one can should be aligned too and the other 180 degrees opposite. If not, correct it by refitting the cam belts correctly. After this, look into spark timing, it should be at 20 deg BTDC. Cheers Bennie
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