wtdash
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Everything posted by wtdash
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TireRack.com as of today no longer had any stock of the 215/70R-15 (26.9"), 205/70R15 (Stock '96-'99 OB), 215/60R16 (stock '98+ Forester S) or 215/65R16 (27") sizes. The 205/70R15 was on 'closeout' yesterday and low stock. They are still listed on Yoko's site. I've emailed both TR and Yoko to see what the status of these tires will be. Was looking to buy a set but not if I can't buy replacements down the road (pun intended). Anyone have an inside connection? Edit: From Yokohama - although they didn't mention WHAT the replacement is: Edit: Heard back from Tire Rack....this sounds like ALL AT-S are disco'd?
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Coolant Temp Sensor -
HI, Sure this is covered online. One example: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=42159 TL;DR: They'll fit but rub on full steering lock against the inner fender wells. Assuming the 'later model rims' are '96-'99 OB or Forester?
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Hi, - CTS is a cheap 'fix' (if not easy to access). - What about your O2 sensors. - clean IAC valve? - Clean-up all grounds. Tangent: What EJ25 did you use on the previous build (ej25+ej22) and What HG?
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^+1 The AT temp light is probably flashing @ startup - or not. Regardless, Pull the codes using the handshake posted on here/online. Report back, and we'll go from there. Td
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Hi, Go read up on the LegacyGT forum - 4th Gen - . LIkely more info there. http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/fourth-generation-legacy-2005-2009-10.html GL, Td
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97 outback
wtdash replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
the 'click' is likely the Brake/Shift Interlock sensor, which requires the brake to be depressed to (help) avoid the unintended acceleration events. Not shifiting out of Park may be a mis-aligned AT shifter, brake pedal sensor/switch, ignition switch, etc.... -
You're running in 'limp' mode likely due to VSS codes. P0500 was a recent code on here or another Subie forum I read. Google "Subaru p0500" (all zeroes) and see what shows up....or wait for the smart guys on here. :-) p1507 may be related to Neutral Switch. P1540 may be the VSS sensor. If this one is bad, it may cause the others. My money is on this. It's on the Pass. side of the transmission, near the Differential dip stick: The tip 'spins' on the gear in the trans to send a electronic signal to the speedo, and breaks/wears out. @ 260K it's been a-round a bit. useful: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548 & https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548 Td
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^+1Check Engine Light on? If so, check the codes - even if you 'think' you know what the codes were for some previous issue. - Or Tuneups? - use ONLY NGK plugs and wires - Or Fuel filter? - Or CTS/coolant temp sensor - Or O2 Sensor
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EJ SERIES on Wikipedia. 2.5 cylinder engines '251' = EJ251 EJ25D, EJ251 (map-based), EJ253 (maf-based), etc.
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Edit: 2 minutes late...but didn't know Cali's restrictions. You're wanting a '95-'98 2.2 for the easiest swap. '90-'94 can be done, but needs a bit more work. The '91-'94 turbo engines require an ECU/computer to run 'em and there isn't anything that'll work w/your '99. You'll want to do so more research if you don't just go w/another '96-'99 EJ25D from a Legacy LSi, GT or OB, '98 Forester or '98 Impreza RS, or do the 2.2 swap. This assumes the original engine in there is DOA. Usually, you can just replace the HG, R&R the heads and it's good - well, @ least 'til rod bearings go to Tijuana. IMHO, If you're getting the car for $400, that's a steal, so buy a decent 2.2, and maintained it'll do 300K w/just regular maintenance.
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Hi, If the CEL is on or has been on, pull/get the codes and report back. There 'should' be codes for a VSS or 2, if it's related to the sensors. But it could be in the cluster like the '99 Legacy models - as noted above. 2006 was about the time Subaru changed from the gear drive speedo sensor in the Trans by the diff oil dipstick, to the newer version - of which I'm not familiar but think it's related to the ABS??? Maybe? The misfires could be related to the code as well. Here's a link w/some info. GL, TD
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Hi, That's a cool ol' Legacy...I saw the MI one in the local PullnSave a couple years back, and one in MT on CL last year (too much work to save). There were approx. 3 extra 'trims' in '94 that marked the end of the 1st Generation Legacy. I "think" the Mi were (mountain) West and Ti were East Coast, maybe? It may be a Ti Outdoor Wagon that has the below, per Cars101.com.
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^+1 on the 2.2 swap. Engine was probably ran 'til it died, which is why it won't start? '99 was also the 1st year of the Phase 2 4EAT. They're known for 'delayed engagement'. It's noted on this Forum that it can be fixed or improved w/an additive, IIRC.
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^+1 Unfortunately, that front 'upstream' O2 sensor is an expen$ive Wideband- type AF sensor - you can find the Subaru OEM parts on ebay or amazon for much cheaper than the dealer. ......REALLY should be new and OEM quality. The O2 sensor should be in the exhaust header/manifold: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/front-oxygen-sensor-o2-sensor-9398.html - I'd also clean your MAF/IAT sensor - carefully - as they can cause issues. FYI: 1. This model also has a Catalytic converter in the up pipe (before the turbo) w/w/an EGT sensor. Highly suggested to replace the up pipe w/an STi catless version (find 'em used on Subie sites).The CC in the up pipe can melt / break / come apart and send all that mess into the turbo. There is a resistor-mod (same as on WRX) to eliminate the EGT sensor - it's only there to 'save' the CC from melting so not required w/a catless up pipe. 2. Read up on removing/replacing the screens / filters in the oil lines that go to the heads and turbo....they require maintenance. 3. Change your oil EVERY 3K miles / 4500 kms...one of the best/easiest ways to keep the turbo engine happy.
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Hey 1LT...I thought just about ALL of CO west of Denver was scenic to a Texan....and even to this NW resident (spent a couple ski bummin' seasons in the area). I believe Pikes Peak is now paved, so not much adventure in that, but still is likely worth a trip up....depending on snow. Have fun, TD
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- Vibration @ idle can be BAD CV Axles (yes, really). Esp. if el cheapos were installed. - The creak may be the top strut mounts (top hats) or springs either wearing or just dry. If you notice it LESS after driving in the rain, then I'd suspect this.
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Why? If yours directly addresses the issue, then No Problem. My P.S. is/was directed @ the OP - Ethan - he has 3 posts w/the same info: 2 New threads and one 'hi-jack' of another.
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Hi, Why are you focusing on EGR? online: P0300 SUBARU - Random Cylinder Misfire Detected Possible causes: Faulty spark plug (s) Faulty ignition coil (s) Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s) Intake air leak Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection Ignition coils harness is open or shorted Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection Insufficient cylinders compression Incorrect fuel pressure Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0300_subaru.html P.s don't cross-post, post on another thread, etc. Stick to one so the Forum can focus on it.
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Forester series - body parts are likely not swappable between series: SF (part of VIN): 1998-2002 - 'facelift' in 2001. Rear hatch and front-end parts changed. SG: 2003-2008 - 'facelift' in 2007. SH: 2009-20013 - Major body, interior, suspension, upgrades. SJ: 2014- See cars101.com for more info, specs, pics
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See this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f72/t202955-problem-setting-base-timing.html specifically this: - did you use the LINE (good) on the back or ARROW (bad) on the front?
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I don't know where that goes..but not clear on why you can't follow it back to where the other end is?...Unless it goes INto a wiring harness? Also, I was thinking that if you did mess up your timing belt - by side-stepping the clutch - that would certainly cause a no-start. It could have jumped a tooth (or dozen), which would explain some of the codes. Newer (?) Subaru's w/5/6-speeds have a guard OVER the crank sprocket to avoid just this issue, IIRC. Good news is that the EJ22T is a NON-interference engine, so no damage to pistons or valves should've occurred.
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+1 Attached 1990-1994 ECU codes. 16, Injector #3 17, Injector #4 22, Knock sensor 23, Air flow sensor 24, Air control valve 35, Canister purge solenoid valve 42, Idle switch 49, Air flow sensor I don't know which of these would cause a 'no start' or Why an attempt to ruin your trans* would also cause this issue, but I've seen/read about it numerous times that these cars also had bad Knock Sensors from the factory - cracked - and I'd replace yours as the first step, as it FREQUENTLY causes other codes. It is possible you had a bad/borderline KS before this and had a stored code. My only guess is that when you tried to kill your clutch* the shock may have loosened a Ground or other connection, as noted by GD above. I would try disconnecting the Neg. battery cable and letting it sit overnight to reset the ECU. REconnect and see if it'll start and/or what codes come back. *You will have a difficult time finding a replacement transmission for a '91-'94 SS.. You'll $pend a lot on either a rebuild or doing a swap w/something else.
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If you either haven't done any prior Trans service or don't know When it was last done, I don't recommend any kind of a Trans Flush on older Subie 4/5EAT's.* The flush will use force/power and could cause grief w/the internal seals. This somewhat debated online and here, but after experiencing it fir$t hand - $900 later (cheap rebuild) - I won't ever do it again. The 3x Drain, Refill, Drive is OK. Most cars will do a 'relearn' after changing the ATF anyway...read your OM as it's likely described there. *Your '05 could have either the 4EAT or 5EAT w/Sport Shift- depends on trim level/engine. OM from '06 - should be same/similar to '05:
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Battle of the 2.2's: 83mm stroker EJ205 vs. built EJ22
wtdash replied to 4URABUS's topic in Turbo Engine Tech ('91 and newer)
Hi First, please start a NEW thread (post) and don't add -on (even if it's related) - next time. This is called a 'hi-jack' and most all forums frown on it. 2nd - EJ222E: We'd need to know your budget, but assuming this is a 'budget build' I'd refresh the engine and keep it stock. You could buy some low CR forged pistons if you wanted to turbo it....but it's not a block built for high boost so you'd not want to push it too much. The rest of the internals on the EJ22e are already forged (just like the legendary EJ22T closed-deck block). A turbo'd EJ22e won't be worth (as) much if you do this as there's no direct Subaru that can be put back in.* And remember any turbo engine would require Engine Management - as in piggy-back, stand-alone, or whole swap (as in WRX) - to run it w/out blowing up. 3rd - 4EAT: The trans is likely about dead, and rebuilding it doesn't make sense - @ least to me - it'd never be worth what you'd have to spend. My .03 (inflation): I'd pull the engine, take the rest to a local salvage/wrecking/U-pull it and unload it, or you can open a Parts Sale ad Here on ebay and/or CL (flakes ) if you want to deal w/pulling and selling yourself. * You might find someone w/a '91-'94 Legacy SS or TW in need of a replacement 2.2....or even a EJ205 WRX owner that needs a shortblock.
