idosubaru

Auto trans will shear the drum off inside the trans if driven with too much binding. Does anyone know the equivalent failure of an MT stressed internally with torque bind? Torque bind seems the obvious starting point - maybe it's been happening awhile or was happening under the aggressive driving described which precipitated or accelerated the U joint failure and busted some stuff in the trans as well. Never seen a ujoint mess up the trans wxcept shearing off and flailing around and crack the extension housing.

I'd EJ swap. Truthfully EA82T's are actually very reliable engines they just have a quarter century of history against them and forced induction issues to boot. Cost wise - an EJ engine can be had for about the same costs as the head job so cost wise yo'ure down to the adapter plate. Look up every year legacy/impreza from 1990-1996 and see if you can find a cheap EJ engine. www.car-part.com. I've gotten sub 100,000 mile EJ engines for $150 in great shape that then accumulated 150,000 miles before. If you buy a wrecked or rusted legacy/impreza for cheap - you could have an EJ egine and trans for cheap. i see them regularly rusted out or ocassionally wrecked for $200 - $400. You can bolt an EJ22 intake manifold onto an EJ18 and then it's just an EJ22 swap but you have more engine options and they're so rare and uncommon they can be had for cheap sometimes. If you swap the transmission as well you could avoid the adapter plate, but I prefer the EA82 center diff lock 4WD and they are less likely to experience torque bind than EJ transmissions. I've never even seen an EA/ER trans with torque bind but i've seen zillions of EJ's with it. EA82T's are reliable when new. but to get them there you have to rebuild the turbo, replace all the lines and fittings, head gaskets, resurface heads, replace the oil pumps (or be prepared to live with TOD) but oil pumps are no longer available, timing belt kit every 50k, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, valve cover gaskets, cam seals, cam cap orings, cam carrier orings...etc. And then after all that work - assume it wasn't overheated enough to compromise bearings which throw rods through the engine case. An EJ would only need valve cover gaskets, timing kit, cam seals/oring and reseal the oil pump to have excellent 100,000 miles reliability, way more power and an endless supply of needed parts for cheap. So I guess if you want as cheap as possible keeping the EA might be "cheaper" if you're okay with unknown overheating events, harder to find parts, unavailable oil pumps, additional turbo support and work and longevity issues and low power. I think it ends up being a pennywisedollardumb kind of deal but hey i'm just as prone to that as the next DIY adventurer, which is why I know it so well. LOL

I would try to diagnose rather than throw parts at it. Any check engine lights? What kind of gas mileage are you getting? Can you describe the symptoms concise and clear? What does it do and when - all the time, warm cold highway idling.... Tune up - plugs, wires, cap and rotor? (Ideally you check all those I have seen new plugs and rotors/caps that failed soon after install - but it's rare) If you have to throw parts then start cheap and go from there. One or two that sat for a long time that had starting and drivability issues I couldn't figure out needed distributors. I'm not sure how to test those as the ones I had seemed to operate fine. I've seen knock sensor and oxygen sensor on those engines cause issues without check engine lights. Find someone that will ship you a spare MAF, Disty, knock sensor to swap out for testing. I might do it for you and have some it before but I'm extremely busy and slightly annoyed at the one person that never mailed my stuff back. You might offer someone $75 and then you get your money back when you ship the parts back.

what was wrong with the prop shaft? Torque bind - the VLSD in the trans failed?

Swap the stubby shafts (install each one on opposite side) and see if anything changes? If it happens the moment it's out in gear Id want to watch or video tape it when it happens. It seems to me he is aware that nominally the stub stays in the trans and the axle slides onto it and is held in Place with a pin. He is saying the stud pulls out. He's. It saying he is pulling it out.

also - OEM automotive audio hasnt been a strong point in this market and Subaru is a good example. The offerings are rarely modern and slick. They offered straight up AUX-in like 20 years ago on very few vehicles and I wish they would have kept it and improved it - but have been as consistent as lottery numbers instead. That's why there's all sorts of hacks, the jazzy engineering mod, FM modulators, people swap in stereos with tapes just to use archaic tape adapters....silly for something so easy its easily hacked and DiYed by determined folks. Very very weird. Give it a go of course but I wouldn't completely rule out being open to a better long term solution like installing aftermarket capable products.

Typed words are trickier to fully understand - to be clear - Why does it matter if the icon is missing? Id focus more on functionality - what symptoms are you having besides the light not coming on? Have you tried reinstalling the app? Looked up a reset or clear feature for the car? Any changes to the car - mods, work, battery drained? Everything else works fine? Check Cars101.com is a great resource for remote, security, FOBs programming and troubleshooting. see if they have starlink covered too. Did you Google it? Stop into the dealer and ask in person.

At least you caught it and figured it out. I'd chase all the threads and clean them up incase any were compromised.

It will have some small additonal value if it's in great condition (it's not a classic or novelty people would want to restore), but it's a small market, even for Subaru which is already smallish) so you'll need exposure to extract that value. Rust free, great condition, one owner, low-ish miles, some records and documentation will probably be most of its value. Offer me a percentage and I'll sell it for you. Lol

C'mon, don't you know how tough it is typing while driving?! Haha

Wish I had seen this last year. No way I'd worry about or touch it. That headbolt isn't going anywhere nor going to "give up" any tension or cause any issues. I mean look at your intake bolts - they're screaming at you that there's no chance those bolts are giving any ground without specific focused applied forces. I'd love to hear what you ended up doing.

I'd use used Subaru head bolts before aftermarket head bolts. You're saying one head bolt broke right? 1. Chase the threads first with a tap before installing the head bolts. Pay particular attention to the bolt hole that snapped. 2. Carefully oil the threads - not so much that it pushes out and runs everywhere. 3. Thread the bolt by hand without the head first so it's not under any tension and see how easily it installs. 4. Verify your torque procedure 5. Verify the units you're using - are you converting or how does your torque wrench read? 6. Test or calibrate your torque wrench. How old is it?

In my experience it'll run great for awhile with no noticeable symptoms and then catastrophically fail in a few months, maybe a year. i'd install another transmission and don't want to say it since it makes it easy for unsavory people to hose the next owner should they sell it. i think he's saying the engine was removed, not the transmission.

Ask Scott from SJR - I'd bet he knows places that have installed his stuff before.

This: Look again. Look up FSM or google pic's to locate bolt holes you might be missing.

Subaru? EA81 or EA82? I often google and check part numbers at multiple places. If something is the same in many places and showing up on Subaru forums correctly it's usually good. some people post a link to *one* parts source and wonder why it's wrong or confusing. It's like they're trying to make it hard on themselves. Someone just did it last week on another forum. If you find one place that's inconsistent or says something different than every other place then it's probably wrong. I order XT6 wheel seals and frequently get the incorrect 4 cylinder seals - how hard can they be to get if I always get them when I don't want too? Lol

It sat for 25 years - is it now not going to sit? I'd set traps, poison and kill every rodent I could. Remove all the debris you can. Ignore every comment about liquid concoctions that work. They don't. They cant get behind panels, folds, inside materials, passages, etc. Rent an ozone generator and run it for at least 12 hours. Fire departments and some hotels usually have them. Or rent them, places that rent equipment (bobcats, backhoes, tractors) usually have them. There are even online companies that will mail you one to rent. before running it, expose every surface you can - remove floor matts, seats, easily pulled panels, open glove box, etc. hook up a battery charger so you can leave the fan blowing all night and circulate the air. Sometimes I'll run it all night but just a few hours with fans running. Make sure the vehicle isn't accessible by anyone while it's filled with ozone. That's the only simple method of neutralizing *really nasty* organic smells from pet, smoke, mildew, or rodents. Works very well.

...Says the guy who has been around racing...very valuable to pay attention to this! my suggestions regarding failed "locked" VLSD's should be taken no more than light use daily drivers.

Then you have a VLSD center diff: Find a failed VLSD and swap that into your car. People replace the VLSD's or transmissions and throw the old failed ones away. They fail to the "permanently locked" state, so what is typically a throw away failed VLSD could be free/cheap and give you RWD once you remove the front axles. Or:

duplicate

Great thanks. Do you know that 05 outer CV will fit onto an 04 axle shaft?

gptcha. Makes sense 04 and 05 would differ due to that bearing change. Will 00-04 inner joints install on an 2005+ axle?

Great! Just to clarify you're running: EJ knuckle FWD impreza rotor and caliper bracket XT6 caliper and caliper slide pin Do you know if older style EJ axles will work in 2005+ knuckles? I'm wondering when I swap if I could use 2005+ knuckles with bolt in bearings and older 00-04 axles.

Have you checked to see if the newer H6 plugs are the same as the older ones? I've only done a handful but based on the remarkable condition of H6 plugs I wouldn't replace them early on an average use daily driver.

If it has the external spin on filter, change that. The internal filters aren't even filters, they're just screens and are pointless to replace. H6 spark plugs are tricky. You can google it, there are multiple ways to attack it but bottom line is there isn't much room between the valve covers and frame rails. A. some people juggle various size extensions and sockets and pulling some from the top and some from the bottom. B. some people unbolt the engine mounts and jack the engine up for better access (there's only 2 14mm nuts on the bottom holding the engine in place so it's not hard). C. the spark plugs are easy to replace with the valve covers removed. Since the VCG's (valve cover gaskets) aren't likely to make 250,000 miles anyway, I usually just do both at the same time and check the valve clearance. Makes spark plug changes easy. If you're going to own the vehicle 200,000 or so miles - you'll basically typically need plugs and VCG's once. Might as well do them at the same time and check valve clearance while you're at it. H6's rarely need valve adjustments, but it does rarely happen. The older H6 plugs look almost perfect after 100,000 miles and easily surpass those mileages. If I had a new H6 and they have the same plugs as the older ones I'd probably just leave them until 125,000 miles and change the spark plugs and VCG's at the same time.