DaveT

The timing belt install marks are 3 lines on the flywheel, not the zero TDC timing mark.

The thermostat must be installed with the sensor bulb and spring downward.

You have to run at idle until the thermostat opens. If the temp goes over normal shut it off. Then add a bunch of coolant. Do not drive before getting that air out of the water pump.

Do you have a new windshield?

Some of this will depend on what version AC system you have. Like Scott mentioned above. Which is close to the battery, the Alternator or the AC compressor?

Wheel balance is my guess. When I had the white wagon wheel rims, the only place that could get it right was a local dealer.

Do you have a gauge set? Need to know the pressures are in the normal ranges. There are pressure switches that shut it off if out whack.

Thread repair kits are available for spark plugs.

SPFI fuel pressure is over 20PSI. Carburetors typically work around 5PSI. Simplest to find an EA82 to swap in. Probably be good to do a reseal on it. The difference between EA81 & 82 would not help with low engine oil, either type would be destroyed. The main reliability difference would be the timing belts and idlers, as in if you want reliable, you have to maintain them. EA81 is gear driven, so no maintenance.

I've seen it on ebay. Depending on $ wouldn't mind having more.

The lights in my wagons have all had a switch on them, just turn them off.

That's what I figured, thus suggesting the EJ.

If you want to keep that car, best bet is find a used engine, but that will likely be tough. Other option, ej 2.2. A lot of work, but so is trying to find parts for the original, and a na 2.2 is more reliable than a turbo ea and more power.

Does the pump run? If you accidentally swap the fuel supply and return lines, it won't run. BTDT.

Oh, yeah, I have drum brakes. Well, at least I could get stainless line. I have a bender and flaring tools.

Ooh! I have to check mine, if they need replacing, that's what I'll do.

The can os supposed to hold for those situations. If there is a vacuum leak, or the check valve in the line to the tank is leaking, the low / loss of vacuum condition will allow the blend doors to move toward their resting positions.

The steel hardlines or the hoses?

Those 2 numbers are standard ball beaeings. A good industrial bearing shop can get them with contact seals. Drill off the staked risers, turn new ones that press into standard bearings, and stake them onto the brackets.

Open the filter. Check the pan. Hard to imaging only the pump failing. Find a used engine might be the best thing, depending on what you find, if you want to keep the car stock.

The cts is the 2 wire sensor that gives the ecu a temperature measurement. It is a thermally sensitive resistor.

Regulators can fail in different ways. No output is one, stuck full on is another.

I ordered a set. I'll update.

Anti seize on everything when reassembling. Always replace the idlers or their bearings, they are done or near done when the belts are due.

I heard about silicon boots in another thread. Here is a link for some I found on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Universal-Silicone-Constant-Velocity-CV-Boot-Joint-Kit-Replacement-BLUE-/230910153051 The questions: Has anyone tried these from this brand / seller? Any other brands that anyone can recommend / has experience with? I'm not looking for cheap, I'd prefer long life / high quality.