ocei77

Double check the large hose from IAC to air supply intake. It may have become dislodged. O.

check your fuel filter. O.

There are 2 or 3 bolts that attach the window frame to the regulator. Sometimes one of these begins to back out and causes similar symptoms. You have to pull the door panel to check. They are either 10/12mm bolts. You can lower or raise the window until the bolt appears in an opening. In one case the bolt hole wasn't directly in an opening, so I drilled a 1" hole though the sheet metal so I could reattach. O.

[ ...Or recommend a mechanic (not NWRS - already tried and he's probably the only honest mechanic on the planet) ....] Since you've already determined that everyone else is probably dishonest, what's the sense of anyone recommending anyone? O.

Remove the EGR valve and gasket. Use two nuts. The 12's that came off will work. Use a wrench on the inner jam nut and you can turn the stud out. This will give you room to use either vise grips or a small pipe wrench. PB the copper pipe well . This won't strip the nut and gives you the oomph to pop it loose. Heat won't hurt, but I had to resort to the above method to get mine off. Didn't have to remove the bottom one in my sitaution, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. O.

I'm sure you've searched before. Stick with the quality names. You can't have cheap and good quality at the same time. For probably only $40 or so, go with quality. O.

Very little oil could leak from the access cover, it being so high up on the block. But anything's possible. In either case. Part # 806931020 or 1070. For future ref: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ also link to fsm.http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Everybody has their preferences and there are specific times where I prefer one or another. When there are large gaps or very uneven surfaces, I use ultra grey or the red hi temp. All other times I use anaerobic. Mainly because it doesn't set up in air, and if you have to delay mounting or remove the part, it doesn't make a mess and can just be attached. O.

a deep offset wrench will also work, without removing manifold O.

Perhaps... For I bought the tool for exactly that purpose. However it works well without any tendency to round in the stated usage. Have used it on six occassions (3 engines). O.

If you are referring to the wrist pin access covers, they are T 70. O.

My dealer sells them singly. Can't remember how much I paid tho. I got 2/3 of the acorn type. Ask. O.

yes. O.

Probably the changes in air density. With the MAP readings constantly changing, the ecu was trying to adjust and set idle accordingly and couldn't. If code reoccurs, I would just clean the IACV. Do a search here for procedure (not hard). O.

Yes!! Generally if you jack up the tranny a little (with a block of wood), then lift the engine, the weight should break it loose. I don't have an engine hoist, I use a comelong attached to a chain over the beams in my garage. So I just use a bottle jack against a block of wood on the firewall and the piston against a metal portion of the block.Works everytime. No chiselling and no profanity. Take another look around the block and make sure you have removed all bolts that attach the tranny to engine, lpus the two nuts that are on the dowel pins. AFAIK you shouldn't have it, but on some EDM models there was a bolt that goes through clutch fork from the driver side tranny housing. Hex IIRC. 05+GT models have this type of cross bolt also. O.

^+1 Don't know which engine you have, but if you have the 2.5, it is highly recommended by others to use the turbo gasket part number ending in 642. 2.2s don't seem as picky. Just be sure its an MLS from a reputable mfg.(oem,6 star etc). O.

[quote name=presslab;1155218 Anyway anyone who has turned a warped rotor on a lathe (as have I) can obviously see that the rotor has actually warped' date=' and it's not just a high spot from material transfer. I'm not saying that material transfer doesn't happen too, but I'm firmly in the warped rotor camp as I've warped mine more times than I would care to admit. QUOTE] Let me wade in. The only way you can really be positive, is to get a new set of rotors and check for run out before use. Use them as stated so that deposits form, check for run out again. Turn so you are only removing deposits not real metal and compare . Because metal is removed under complaints of "warped", we don't have a baseline,to say how they were at installation. Another factor is the floating caliper design that many cars use nowadays. When I install a new set of rotors or pads, I use the bed in procedure as outlined by Baer. It's a little more involved , but I have never had an issue since using it. O.

Check the pads on the side the noise is from. Sometimes there is uneven wear and one side looks good but the other is down to the indicator. Check your rotor while you are at it. O.

Only other alternative is like my 04 BE. It was a Ca. emissions (PZEV state here). Although it was an H4 it borrowed the headers and exhaust from the H6. It had a total of 5 O2 sensors! In attached pic you can see the 2nd sensor just behind the cat, in front of tranny support crossmember. O.

Fel Pro or OEM. O.

I always carry a spare key in my wallet. Depending on car , it may not work the ignition, but it will get me in. Just a habit I've been in for a little over 30 years. It has saved me more than once. O.

Had a similar issue on a 98 Forester. In my case the dipstick was bent just enough that it would touch the solenoid, grounding it and giving me the code. Just another possibility. O.

Exedy. Also named Daikin. Great quality. A supplier for many mfgs. Their kits come with pressure plate and nose bearing. You also need a throwout bearing and the two clips that go on it. The clips are oem only AFAIK. For an 07 2.5I i paid about $200 for everything and that was three years ago. O.

Interesting... O.