Numbchux

my money is on fuel pump. the EA82t pump is about 2/3 the volume of the EJ22t one.....not enough. as soon as it gets into boost, and really opens up those injectors, the pressure drops, and takes a minute to catch up.

STi, definitely. '05+ to be specific. but those would require 5x114.3 hubs and such. somewhere around 25:1. what's the lo range on an EJ16 box? lower than the EA82 1.59? unfortunately, VDC is only available with the auto. it would not be easy to get it to work without the TCU.

yes

yep, just take the flywheel and clutch off your '98 motor, and bolt it onto the '92. no problem.

^I think aftermarket parts, designed for a subaru are acceptable when discussing an "All Subaru" wheeler. but taking parts off of another car brand, and fabricating them to work on a subaru is over the line. bigger tires weren't designed for subarus..... wheels....well, yea. almost no options. some AA wheels that were made for subarus, but I think we might have to overlook that. that said.... some pretty conservative suggestions. he said ANY combination of subaru parts. Subaru made a ton of sweet stuff Baja made into a 2-door, longbed Exocage/tube bumpers/integrated winch EDM Subaru diesel swap some big ol' redneck exhaust stacks behind the cab 8" of lift (probably 8" blocks at the crossmembers, replacing the stock 1" block, 8" total strut extensions, stock struts, and mild lift springs.) 31" Kumho M/T tires on 15" Team Dynamics wheels 276mm front brakes and 290mm rear r180 rear diff/axles/hubs, probably welded. now, the transmission is the hard part. as I don't know what was available with the diesel. But I'm thinking a 5EAT for a gas motor would probably be geared pretty low for a diesel. add the big tires, and it would probably be just fine on the freeway. add a big ol' tranny cooler, and let the TC slip offroad. SoobieDoo is onto something with the VDC thing. if you've got 10 minutes, check out this video.....the subaru VDC demo is pretty cool: I think it would be very hard to retrofit....but the results could be pretty sweet.

both temp sensors are on the coolant bridge. one for the gauge, one for the ECU. I think the ECU is the 2-wire one. That's not a bad idea, if the ECU isn't sure how warm the engine is, it could effect your idle and such.

valves and such are comparable to 2.2 stuff. you would gain some grunt from the compression bump....but that's about it. you'd be better off throwing a 2.5 shortblock under the 2.2 heads.

I'm not sure. I've never had an outer joint apart. but from the joint, out, they're very different. I'm not 100% sure what you're doing, so let me clarify. you've got XT6 hubs and knuckles, and an RX trans. And you have a set of EA82t axles that you'd like to use. And either way, the axle has to be shortened to work with the EA81 track width. If I'm understanding that correctly, I would say getting XT6 axles and having them shortened would be worth the extra effort. you'll need the XT6 outer joint/stub anyway, and the XT6 inners are already 25 spline.

easy. as far as the head-to-block mating, yes. as a general rule, intake mani has to match the heads (there are exceptions, in this case, 1.8 and 2.2 are interchangeable). also as a general rule, heads from larger-displacement engines have a larger quench volume, and vice versa. so swapping around will effect compression. also, using heads for a much larger bore can cause issues with the headgasket mating surface (I have heard of issues with N/A 25D heads on 18s to be specific). capn_r. *my understanding is* the quench volume of the heads *technically* effects the volume of the overall combustion chamber. but it's only a couple ccs each, so it's not enough to substantially effect the displacement (for example, a 2.2l is 2212 ccs, with 1.8 heads, it's probably 2204). but at TDC, it's a substantial change, so noticeably effects the compression ratio.

standard EA82 transmission crossmember is pretty different. it's one piece, and too far forward But XT6s use a 3-piece crossmember, much like the EJs. if you get your hands one the front and rear crossmember from a Manual XT6, you can put the EJ center section between them, and it will all bolt right into your EA82 (although, you'll still need to shorten your driveshaft 2"....). otherwise.....custom. as XT6 parts are not exactly easy to find. I was looking at some EA82 parts though, and they still have both pieces, but only the front one supports the weight. I'm sure with some drilling and a little fabricating, you could put an EJ center section between the EA82 ones. but I haven't tried that.

oops, thought you meant you could only find '92 diagrams. yea, like Gloyale said, you could use the entire harness from the '92, but the engine harness will be slightly different....

nice, than that should be pretty good. my 215/65r15 snow tires made it just barely liveable, so your extra height and slightly lower gears should be pretty decent. good work!

ignore the distributer comment, not applicable. technically, yea, the smaller quench volume of the 1.8 heads will change your displacement, but only by about 8ccs. Also, I think standard EJ22s already use the thicker headgasket, so you could only increase the compression ratio by changing the gasket. stock 2.2 compression ratio is 9.5:1. I think 1.8 heads brings it to like 10.5 or so. should make for some sweet torque, but you'll need to run premium gas to prevent detonation.

no, outer splines are completely different XT6 vs EA82. the XT6s are almost identical to EJ stuff there.

I did this when putting a 4-cyl radiator in my XT6 last fall. it has held great since then. and yea, the '91 wiring will be virtually identical to the '92. you might noticed different plug shapes between the bulkhead and engine harness (the plugs by the battery), but the ECU pinout is the same, and the wires all do the same thing.

cool! But, I hope you either have oversized tires, or you don't spend any time on the freeway. I couldn't stand the ridiculously low gears on the freeway with the stock RX trans. I can't imagine converting it to 3.9! yikes!!!

depends what 1.8 you're talking about. all EJ series heads are interchangeable. so if you're talking about putting EJ18 heads on an EJ22, yes, it definitely will work. and it'll bump your compression up a bit (start running premium gas!). if you're talking about EA-series 1.8s.....no. no way.

sorry, I was kinda vague. I was just thinking about the wires at the EJ alt. and yea, if that's not hooked up, that's your problem. it needs a switched power source, doesn't NEED to be from anywhere special, although you might want to get your reference somewhere in the engine harness to make sure that stays at a nice comfortable voltage. in stock form, it ties into the ignition coil and a couple other power sources (fuel pump relay?). your idle problem might improve once the alternator is working. if things are getting low voltage, they may not work right. checking for leaks isn't a bad idea....but your symptoms do sound like fuel pump. the EA82t pump pushes a fraction of the volume compared to the EJ22t one.

http://www.efilogics.com/gallery/index.php?fldr=/2%20-%20EFI%20Cars%20and%20Motorsports/EFI%20Street%20cars/99%20Forester%20L glad to hear you got your hands on one, and fast! it's only been a few months since you talked about buying mine. what ratios (low and axle) are you running? also....holy strut extensions!! hope you spaced down the drivetrain to match, or that will chew through axles in a hurry.

awesome! looks like a clean swap, love the video....especially the last few seconds why did you pull the dash, though? yikes! alright, 1: the set screw probably won't effect the idle that much, it's just there to adjust the TPS calibration. it really doesn't open the plate almost at all, unless it's totally cranked down. Does it stay at 2k even once it's warm? that's not an impossible number for warm-up, but if it isn't coming down, that's not right. Could just be a sticking IAC valve. CEL codes? did it do that in the donor car? 2: check for power at the yellow wire. this should get a switched 12v for the VR. the black wire will be grounded if the yellow has power and the alt isn't charging (this is what controls the idiot lights). if these are correct, you might want to try a new alt (or having this one tested). 3: stock tstat is 180, IIRC. 200 isn't impossible if it's loaded, but not much more. I'd throw a new tstat at it. 4: EA82/t pump is rated for 95lph at 61-71psi, EJ22e for 80lph at 36psi, and EJ22t for 150lph @ 43psi. So, yea, you're probably getting plenty of pressure, so it's working fine when not under load, but as soon as you're opening the taps, there just isn't enough there.....

yes....yes they would be!! great work Austin! looks mean!

did you really read anything? the write-up that I spent months compiling clearly says: "You'll need a fuel pump from a Fuel Injected EA car (if yours isn't already), to supply the necessary fuel pressure." EA pumps are in-line, not in-tank. EJ ones are in-tank, and not designed to work the other way around, so they don't have a way to attach a line to them. an SPFI EA82 pump is plenty of pressure/volume for an N/A EJ22.

oh yea, wiring will be different. no plugs for the trans, and the plugs for the gauge cluster are *probably* different (like I said, they were in my loyale). you'll have to jumper the start interlock so it'll start (fool it into thinking it's in park or neutral all the time). if you want the reverse lights to work, you'll have to get a little creative. I don't think of those things, because I don't care . backup lights and neutral start switch (and low range/diff lock indicators for that matter) didn't work in my loyale. whatever, the important stuff worked axles are 100% interchangeable. all XT6s have 25-spline axle stubs. rear diff mount is the same, although ratio is definitely different (3.7 for the auto, 3.9 for the MT), so you will have to swap it. carrier bearing mount is there, no sweat.

what is the donor car? another '6? as long as it's an EA82t or XT6, the axles will work. if it's an EA82t, you won't have to swap the rear diff (XT6 4EAT is 3.7, as is the Ea82t FT4WDs) if the gauge cluster is like the standard Ea82s, the wiring for it will be quite different between them. when I did it in my loyale, I opted to just leave the auto cluster there. speed sensor is in the gauge. I've never had good luck taking the cable off the trans, so I just leave that attached and bring it with. that's about it.....looks like a good list.

which is definitely the cheapest full coilover you can buy. nice coilovers go for 2-3k. sweet ones are 5+..... Awesome work tex. can't see any flaws in the body work from the picture.....