el_freddo

When you say timing is correct, how was the procedure done/how do the cams and crank line up? If it’s correct, all EA82s will have one cam in the 12 o’clock position, crank in the same and the other cam at 6 o’clock. I say this as my first thought was that both cams and crank were lined up at the 12 o’clock position then the belts were fitted. This produces an engine that runs only on one bank. To check this theory you can either check the timing, or get it running and pull the leads on one bank, if it stalls, restart with all leads connected then try the other side. If one cam is out, it will continue running exactly the same with the leads pulled on the bank that has the cam out of sync. Lifters will not hold a valve open unless there’s something majorly wrong with it, in which case you’ll have other issues. @Steptoe - the NA MPFI runs 20deg BTDC, so it’s really only 2 degrees advanced on the NA block. And what you found with the valve spring tension was quite the find and not something I’d ever look into! Cheers Bennie

Yeah it didn’t run well at all. Half way to dropping my wife off at work one morning I thought I was running out of fuel (had just done a 600+km round trip the day before on one tank), I put my jerry can in, no change, limped it home about 2km. After setting up the shed I got her started, drove her in and found this after tearing down the front end. Glad the EJ22E non interference, any more of a change in timing and it would’ve been a different story with any other EJ... Cheers Bennie

My experience too: But that was caused by this and another 3000km: Cheers Bennie

That’s not a drift. That’s a loss of control for reasons we can’t see off camera. They’re bloody lucky they didn’t hit the car with the camera or the wall. I wonder what was the real cause of their stack - high speed traffic weaving gone wrong? Cheers Bennie

@FerGloyale Cheers Bennie

That is definitely a dowel pin from the engine/gearbox. You can easily tap that back in where it should be - if it's not the result of being pushed out to make way for another dowel pin from an engine swap. Any play in the rack can make some noise and give you the feeling of knock through the steering wheel. Clear up that slack and you might find your issue is sorted. Cheers Bennie

Anything good to report? Pics were awesome, “report” was a bit “meh, it goes” Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder what’s the life “expectancy” of the plastic can gear? Mate they interchangeable with the older metal units? I only ask as I have a spare one I could use on my sister’s Gen3 that I’m about to do the HGs on. Cheers Bennie

The VIN is used to identify the correct parts for your vehicle. It’s an awesome system to use! You can use it to look up part numbers etc from online sites too Cheers Bennie

You need to ask for a pcv valve for a 2011 Subaru Forester! If the parts interpreter can’t work it out then they shouldn’t be in that job!! Don’t forget to say hello and the usual polite mannerisms etc Cheers Bennie

New member chasing some numbers on their post count?? I too thought the same about the age of the thread. It’s a shame to OP never reported back as to what the issue was. Cheers Bennie

The EJ makes these things wicked rides! Mine can be daily’d If I want it to be. And I have no issues jumping in it for off-roading or a full day of driving, eg batting out 800km isn’t though about from a reliability point of view, I just know it can do it and it’s got some power for taking off at the lights and for passing when needed - yet if driven nicely I can still pull in under 10L/100km Cheers Bennie

Series 1 or series 2? This matters as the bonnet design was different between the two series - series 1 had the bonnet drop down a little over the grille, series two had a clean line right across the front of the bonnet. Hence both series grilles are different to each other. Got a pic of the front of the cut it came from? Cheers Bennie

Bumper will be too wide and not look “nice”. Cheers Bennie

That can also be wheel bearings - one side of the car becomes loaded with the vehicle’s weight, noise increases. It’ll also be speed related noise. I’ve never heard of spider gears making noise, even in corners. They’d have to be very well abused to make noise when cornering. Cheers Bennie

I had cheap LED lights on my rear tyre carrier’s swing arms, no issues. Trailer is traditional globes. Dad’s car trailer has LEDs and no issues on the L series, can double check this in the next couple of weeks if you wish. There shouldn’t be any difference in running the LED trailer lights, it doesn’t matter what is switched, so long as you have the pos and neg the right way around for the diodes to work. Cheers Bennie

7 pin trailer plugs are alive and well @Steptoe! I prefer them over the flat type. Call me old fashioned, I just like them better mainly because that’s what I grew up with. My trailer plug on both the Brumby and L series are wired into the factory loom. No diodes or anything like that and they both work sweet. Cheers Bennie

Awesome effort FerGloyale! As for the front diff, no safety retainer clips etc on the L series 5 speed box or any of the EJ boxes I’ve played with. That bent shaft is impressive! Sure it wasn’t smashed on a rock (although I think the Gen3 rear end has a lower control arm to bend first). Any vibration experienced? And that rear shaft removal trick, you’re swapping the rear axle with the shaft through the rear swing arm hub mount hole, have I got that correct? If so that’s an awesome find, I would not have thought of doing that for a shaft replacement on the Gen3! Cheers Bennie

Looks good mate. DIY build? Cheers Bennie

Glad to see you made it over here STiAMV! I forgot that your brumby/brat/MV was one of the Finnish long tray units. Cheers Bennie

I doubt there’s damage at three or four teeth out of time. So you may have dodged a bullet there. I reckon GD will give a difinitive answer about that cam timing. Reset the cam belt, check the tensioner and all the idlers - replace it rumbly when spun or if the bearing has already collapsed. Cheers Bennie

There is a dual range 5spd box. They’re most common after mid ‘87 models when it seems the single range was phased out (in Oz they’re super rare and I’ve never seen a series 2 with a single range. It could be different for the US market). Cheers Bennie

My thought is to use the next size up screw with the same fine thread. You may need to drill out the hole in the rotor cap. Or EJ it, “perfect” excuse Cheers Bennie

Only if you’ll deliver!! Cheers Bennie

Use your MY flywheel. You’ll have to dremel out the mounting holes. OR: have a machine shop fill the current holes and redrill for the EJ crank bolt pattern. I’ve seen it done on the forum before. You’ll also need an adaptor plate. And I hope you got the wiring loom and computer for the engine too. You’ll need that! I know that engine as the EJ22E, could be the same as the EJ222, but I don’t know. What I do know is that it’s an awesome engine and you’ll love it in your beast. Expect gearbox to become a loose gearbag in no time flat... start working on the gearbox replacement now. Cheers Bennie PS: also have a read of this file, it’ll tell you exactly what you need in parts and what you need to do for the conversion http://www.mediafire.com/file/edqqit6xq9tthx6/Numbchux+EJ+to+EA+Swap+Guide.pdf