turbosubarubrat

Auto parts stores

Made mine awhile back and it hasn't leaked. I coated the treads with sealer along with the out side since it was easier than trying to paint it. I welded a 3/8" 90 to the thread adapter on the block then welded a nut to the other side of the 90.

Depends on what kind you buy. Since my 85 brat is apart i'm going to use welding rod and heat it together with my torch. Then i'm going to tack it in with my mig so the problem is gone for good.

Have a car that's one of a kind that can be identified so easily that they would be stupid to steal it. You can pull the coil fuse out to make it not start. Have a steering wheel club. Battery quick disconnect. Have a push button for the starter. The way the tumbler is designed on these is when you stick in a wrong key in the ignition switch it can break the tumbler making it get stuck. Subaru only made 20 something different keys for the 80's subaru's.

Possible. Reasonable depending on how deep your pocket is. Cost depends on how many people would be working on the brat at a given time and how long it takes them. Retro Roo in Colorado does swaps so does Superior import repair in Portland Oregon. You could find some one on here to do the swap for you. If it tells you anything a shop charges $1500 to pull a engine and do the head gaskets then put the engine back in.

How bad were the old ball joints? I've had them so worn out that you can use them as a rattle. The ball could move side to side and up and down. Did you impact the castle nuts on? Did the ones on my lifted hatch about a week ago with the ones from oriley's they worked great with a lifetime warranty. Had to swapped spindles since somebody broke the ball joint bolts head off along time ago before i got it.

Can be found at any auto parts store. Bring the bulb in and match it up. The gear shift lights have always been pointless to me since i know when i want to shift and what rpms give the best mileage.

ea81 and ea82 starters are basicly the same (ea82's are slightly bigger). The ea82 flywheel bolts to a ea81 using the ea81 bolts (unless you want to drill and tap the to the bigger bolt size of the ea82 crank). This route all you have to do is get a ea82 clutch kit. If you reuse the ea81 flywheel you need to machine it down to the ea82 flywheel specs. Then use a ea82 clutch disk and a ea81 pressure plate.

The 5 speeds didn't come factory in brats. Tell him he's 99% wrong. The 1% can stand for it is a factory transmission for a 85-88 3rd gen gl not a 2nd gen. The 5 speeds didn't come out until late 84 in the newer body style gl's. The 5 speed is pretty much a bolt in swap though. This is a 3rd gen 4wd gl

My 85 brat has a 4" ADF kit, a carb's ej, rx trans, lsd rear, rear disks, factory winch bumper, all of which need to be installed after the body work is done(a lot of work). Welding in 3rd eye radiator support, dual step sides, rear wheel wells, sand the whole thing, prime, paint bright red again. When i put the lift on i plan on no cutting unlike what i did to my wheeler/daily driver hatch. My point is do what you want to it. In the end it's your car so you know what you want to do with it not somebody else. I would put the 4" on since you already have it. The 2" lift to me isn't really worth putting on since you can't really tell if it's lifted or not without being parked next to another stock brat. I also know the difference between gl's and dl's.

Sealant all the way around the out side of the gasket/pillars/roof.

Dupli Pontiac blue is pretty close

Its called a pickle fork.

Got some more work done on this. Did another oil change. Bought new front rotors, pads front and rear, ball joints, and my friend mike turned the rear rotors at no charge. Had to change spindles since the ball joint bolt had apparently been broke for quite awhile. Ball joint was pretty bad considering if i jerked on the tire when jacked up i could feel it shift up, down, and sideways.

I would swap in a ej22 if your going to rebuild the ea82. ej22's have twice the horsepower. You could pic up a legacy fairly cheap and reseal the motor. The block in my hatch has 190k on it with rebuilt heads and it runs great with tons of power. Depending on whether you want to go to awd or d/r 4wd the conversion varies. You can mount in a ej trans to go awd or stay 4wd and get a ej to ea adapter plate. Talk with Patrick at ADF he can help you figure out what you want/need http://andersondesign-fab.com/. His user name is Prwa101.

Haven't updated in awhile 1 1/2" spacers pics from BNW

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1600-1800-Service-manual-Engine-And-Body-1984-/261828895248?hash=item3cf637e210&vxp=mtr

The 1984 is the best year edition for the 2nd gens. It covers ea71's, ea81's, ea81t's. All i've seen for 85 up is for the ea82/ea82t cars. All the wiring and emissions and such are the same as a 84 as a 86.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1600-1800-Service-manual-Engine-And-Body-1984-/261828895248?hash=item3cf637e210&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Subaru-1600-1800-Series-Service-Manual-Engine-Body-Free-Ship-/161709361557?hash=item25a6a10995&vxp=mtr

I would start by measuring the width of the legacy hub to hub and the 1st gen hub to hub to see how much the width difference is. A ea81 car is about 3 inches narrower than a ea82 which means the ea71 cars are even smaller. I know the legacy is wider than the ea82 but i don't know how much. Depending on how much wider the legacy is you might be able to find a different off set rim that might work. Other wise use the ea81/ea82 5 lug swap/suspension upgrade on this with the stock cross member. Probably best off doing what some have done which is cutting the 2 front sets of axles up and welding/sleaving them.

You need to run it to burn the oil off. I got the atf in my exhaust/on and it smoked for quite awhile. My fans are hooked up like original on mine.

The sealed one looks like a oriley's master pro. I put 2 of those on my moms hatch and they work fine. I had a problem with the drivers side tie rod there though. It wouldn't press into the spindle bracket to be able to tighten it because for 1 it had a lock nut and 2 it had a under size taper.

When you put the ball joint on the boot will be compressed to the control arm. Many ball joints are made like this. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=ball+joint&year=1983&make=Subaru&model=GL&vi=1268311

I know some one who ran a ea71 home with one head falling off.