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It's been a few years...but IIRC: - Drain the fluid, Drop the exhaust, loosen the pitchstop, and engine mount nuts (so engine can move w/the trans), remove the trans crossmember (or maybe just its bolts to the body) while supporting the trans w/a jack, tilt the trans down, remove the housing bolts, CAREFUL w/the parking pawl - it'll try to escape...for starters. I'd also recommend replacing the Duty C solenoid while you're in there - $100 new OEM (?), a new gasket for the housing and make sure the transfer clutches aren't worn....look up torque bind and you can see pics, if not familiar. GL, TD

Sir, Please get yourself a code reader, and help us help you. :-) congrats on the new ride! Td

Under the dash - usually near driver's right knee- are two green connectors, when plugged together - Key in ON, Engine OFF position- it causes all relays, sensors, rad fans, etc. to cycle. I would 'think' it'd cycle the Fuel Pump Relay too. Other than checking the wiring from the FP - under rear seat ? - I don't have anything else. GL, Td

^ It fixed my '98 and it was free. Thanks

FWD fuse location is shown on page 12-8 - under Specifications. site for downloads: https://carmanuals2.com/brand/subaru

You're lucky - P**ker Subaru in N. ID charges MORE than retail....anything over $20 is cheaper to order from Jason Douglas and have shipped.

+111

If you scroll down this LINK (be aware its PG-13 because of the background pics used), past the cluster info, it'll show the speedo sensor - VSS- IN THE TRANS that is not too hard to replace. I'd pull it out and check the blade on the end - they break. GL, Td

Tulsa can get HOT and that can shorten a battery's life, but depends on how much time it's exposed to the heat. Get it tested @ shop, as they can give you a fair idea of its current state.....or just replace so you don't have to worry!:-) Td

The clutch is adjustable right above the gas pedal under the dash. I'd try that b4 anything else. TD

Hi, Did you verify nothing was stolen from your car? Thieves will leave the door ajar....from my experience. :-( And if started up OK your battery is strong....but you could check it by seeing how 'closed' the door needs to be to turn off the interior light and the dash 'door ajar' light. Either way, it didn't hurt anything. My only concern would be if you drive the car sparingly or have a <5 minute commute the battery may not get a chance to fully recover. TD

+100 The 2.5 heads will LOwer your compression ratio, which will mean less power, esp. off idle......Although the DOHC heads do flow better up top. Some do this combo if they have 'aspirations' to add a turbo. Usual recommendation is to use a headgasket that matches the block as the cylinder bore needs to match. But as the 2.5 heads may have different ports for the oil/coolant flow, you may need a custom Cometic ($100 + ). And there is a fair bit of info out there about this combo as it's been used as a replacement in the early Legacy turbo (SS and TW) - see http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php, and in the Impreza - see RS25.com. There's also the DOHC Tbelt to deal with, you'll need a DUAL-port exhaust manifold/header, the valves are a shim-over-bucket which are a PITA to adjust, and the spark plugs are hard to reach....so yeah, find the best solution from the previous posted options and git 'er done. GL, TD

^+1 Also, If it's moving while in Park I can think of 2 other options: 1. Parking pawl INside the rear of the trans is broken....not an easy fix (for most) and probably more than the car's worth. 2. One of the front CV axles is broken. When it happened on my '96, the car wouldn't go over 35mph, and would roll away w/out the parking brake on. Test it by putting in gear, w/foot on brake and have someone look to see if the axle is spinning on either side of the transmission....as the brakes will keep the tire-side from spinning. GL, TD

Go to opposedforces.com and drill down to your year/model and look under Train>>Differntial (trans) for some info. XS is 4.44 FD ratio and should be the same for '03-'08...but the site shows a different p/n for the '03-'04 model. The XS And use car-parts.com for interchange. The '04-'05 5-speeds used a 4.44 too, IIRC. The OB XT had a 4.44, too...not 100% sure on the years. The XS and XT models have rear axle limited slip differential...not on the X. Td

'95-'98 EJ22/2.2, and '96-'98 2.2 REQUIRES a Single-port header / exhaust manifold / y-pipe. Bolts up just like the dual-port to the rest of the exhaust.

Hi, I can't help much other than to warn you that if you drive this on the highway, the 4.44 may get old - if it's going to be a DD. I've read- somewhere>Legacy Central?< that the RPM's were near 4K @ 60 MPH - in 5th. Seems too high, but might want to do more research. Also, be aware that Subaru changed the bolt pattern of the rear pinion flange of the rear diff in the mid-90's, which hopefully you're getting one newer, but I don't know if that's the only time it changed. I'd guess (!) the drive shaft will work, as Subaru's 5-speeds and matching rear diffs are the same size - end-to-end. And most of the pre-2006 (?) Subaru turbos had a PULL clutch vs. the PUSH used on NA versions....so you'll need a matching FW, etc. 300HP from 12 psi...seems ambitious....what's your setup? TD

The '02-'05 had the EJ205 - 2.0 liter. It's known to spin bearings, and also the tranny is supposedly weaker...but I'm of the opinion the trans last just fine if you don't drag race/side-step/dump the clutch @ every stoplight. The STi has the more durable 6-speed if needed. '06-'14 (?) had the EJ255 - 2.5 liter. It's the same that was used in the Baja turbo, Forester XT, Outback XT and Legacy GT. ...remember there's a lot of interchangeability between Subaru models. They have ringland issues (usually #4), and misfires due to ......well, lots of causes. Do some research on NASIOC for the WRX, and SubaruForester.org for the XT. Something else to consider - get a ProTune for the ECU. The stock Subaru tune can use some help...and you don't have to do this for more power (although it's a nice side-benefit), just for to keep the engine a little safer. Finding a good tuner is key, so ask around. And just to be extra clear, although I've modified a few Subaru turbos, I'm not a huge fan due to all the issues I've read about - and personally experienced (blown ringlands on a '04 Forester XT and HG issues on a '02 WRX, respectively).....obviously forums favor the 'issues' as people come to them to find answers, which doesn't account for all the happy drivers that didn't have issues....but still.... Td P.s. My uncle has a '69 440 Coronet - owned since new, and a friend is working on a '67 Dart.

Hi, I'm guessing that since you live in/near the Rocky Mtns in CO, Subaru's keep their value. $15K will probably get you into a 2010 or older Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan 4D, Mileage: 65,000, based on a KBB.com Private Party value. Expect to pay $1500+ more from a Dealer. But I'd recommend keeping $2K in reserve for unexpected repairs. My thoughts: The most important thing you want to do is get it thoroughly checked out - expect to spend a few HUNDRED DOLLARS to do this right.....yeah, sounds like a lot, but a blown engine, tranmission, etc. will be THOUSANDS to repair. - I recommend a Compression and Leak Down test to verify the engine and valves are healthy. - Do a hydrocarbon test to (hopefully) see if the head gaskets are leaking. - Over a 100K, the turbo's get tired and aren't cheap to replace -unless you do your own work. - Clutches are another maintenance item. If you're buying from a Private Party - Craigslist - make sure they have PROOF of any repairs done....word of mouth doesn't cut it. Assuming you know buying used from a dealer is no better than a private party -just more $$ (and generally easier paperwork, too...but not worth the extra cost). Get an Autocheck or Carfax to verify the # of owners. Unless it stayed 'in the family', more than 2 owners is getting risky, as one of them could've thought WRX = Rally Car! There are a # of recalls on certain years...if they're NOT done, that indicates a lack of maintenance, IMHO....keep looking. GL, Td

Hi, No offense to Matt, but pretty sure those will rub on the strut perches - right where the bottom of the strut spring is supported. The Xtrek tires are 2+ inches TAller. See attached. You COULD buy the set and either trade or sell>>buy some Shorter 17" tires that would fit....205-50-17? I think the 225 are too w-i-d-e, as well. Here's my new favorite tire size reference: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Edit: Per cars101.com the '95 Impreza had the following options...from base>>Outback. So yours have been swapped out previously if they're 15", which came stock on the '97+: '92-'95: wheels/tires 175\70SR14 steel wheel 195/60HR14 with steel wheel 195/60HR14 with 5 spoke alloy wheel on sedan, steel on other models, O- alloy wheel 185/70HR14 Raised white letter all season. Steel wheel with hubcap. 5 spoke alloy wheel optional '97+ Wheels/tires 15" steel 195/60R15 87H 15" Alloy 205/60R 15 16" Alloy, Gold colored honeycomb 205 / 55R 16 89H GL, Td

Hi, You need to get your reSearch hat on- - Your leaks probably don't need a rebuild - but rather new (re)seals. Covered on here and other Subie sites. - Fuel smell could be a leaky injector....although they may be new-er, they may not be installed correctly. - Go look on RS25.com for adding a turbo.... FYI - Usually cheaper to find a lower-mileage 2.2 than rebuild it.... Remember to read the Stickies @ the top of most Forums. GL, TD

Plan on replacing the turbo inlet hose w/an aftermarket Silicone model - as I'd be VERY surprised if it's not already cracked....all that heat wears 'em out. Find 'em used (along w/a turbo) on NaSIOC and read up on install as the after market - not stock version - CAN be installed w/out removing the intake manifold - I've done it. TD

HI, 3 thoughts: 1: Do you get the steady blink when checking codes to verify the ECU diagnostics IS working? And you looked for both active and historical codes? 2. MAF sensors tend to fail on these....but usually it's a random failure that won't cause your 'no-start' condition. The car will die, but usually start right back up....but another used MAF may be worth a shot, if readily avl. (Every USA Subaru except the SVX and '91-'94 turbos used the same green label MAF from '92-'98-ish.) 3. Battery / Alternator condition? New and/or known good? Also, the fuel gauges are known to be erratic on the older Subies. My '96 is less than accurate below a 1/2 a tank, due to the sensors sensitivity (one on left and right) wearing out, I believe. Did you search the Legacy Central site, too? GL, TD

Hi, Just to clarify....'96-'99 Legacy OB/GT (2.5), '95-'98 Legacy L/Brighton (2.2), '95(2.2 only)-'98 Impeza, '98 Forester. You'll need your DUAL port exhaust y-pipe off the heads (header), but it'll bolt up to any of the other exhausts. The '99 Legacy L, and Impreza had a Phase 2, 2.2 and are not (easily) compatible w/your engine electronically. You could put it in the earlier models, but you'll need use the intake manifold that matches the car. And '95 Autos were EGR-equipped, which is a GOOD thing as it'll work in cars with or w/out EGR. There are some gotchas so keep searching to find more info. Your brother should know what you'll need to add to your engine to use it w/a 5-speed (FW, pilot bearing, etc.). GL, TD

I believe the difference in Cam/Crank sensors is the older style were all one piece - sensor+wire/harness+plug? Newer style had a plug connector on the sensor....I don't know if they're interchangeable.....Edit...No..see below. And if the '90 has a KS it's likely cracked so reuse the Forester's. It should plug in to the '98 intake's harness (you got one w/the wiring harness attached? If not, I'm fairly sure the Forester's will work).

EGR - link...non-issue, unless your '98 intake doesn't have it either....then you'll have a CEL.