lmdew

Get the CEL and Trans codes 1st! Yes, a trans flush and new filter would be a good second step. When I flush the trans I: 1- Drain 2- Pull the Trans radiator cooler line, put it in a gallon jug 3- Fill with new fluid 4- Start the car, the old fluid will pump out 5- Shut the engine off when you have about 1/2 gallon Repeat steps 3-5 until you get new clean fluid out. Larry

First, put a 2x4 on the floor under the brake pedal so it does not go to the floor in an area of the master cylinder where it has not been going. It can take out the seal. 1) With a hose on the bleeder going into some brake fluid pump until you have a firm brake 2) With light pressure on the brake, loosen the nut to let the old fluid come out 3) Repeat steps 1&2 until you have clean air free fluid coming out of the brake. Make sure you don't run the master cylinder out of fluid. http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-101-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DWKO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1454529257&sr=8-5&keywords=motive+products+brake+bleeder Worth every penny.

Best to put a meter on the battery terminals and measure the voltage before you start it and then after. When it's running you should have 13.6 volts or more. If you don't have a meter, but you do have a compass put it on the battery, when you crank the car the N will point in one direction, when it's running it should point in the opposite direction tell you it charging. If you need an ALT, the best and least expensive route is a self serve yard. Pull a Subaru Alt for about $45.

They should but with that small sidewall the ride won't be so nice. Larry

Get the Factory wiring, sometime you can find them online. Load, Ground Power Once you have all three located you can test the circuit. I've stripped a few cars of your vintage, if my memory serves me correctly, all the wiring runs down the passenger side door frame, lower rail. I believe there is a main connector up at the passenger side front kick panel as well. Find a good diagram, otherwise your just chasing your tail. You have done some good testing so far. Good Luck, Larry

Did you check voltage with the fan connected or disconnected? If Disconnected you meter can lie to you. Check out Load Pro on you tube. You will find numerous videos Dan Sullivan has done on properly checking voltage. - Seeing Voltage in the connector you have ruled out: 1) Opens 2) Shorts You need to check the circuit under load (fan connected) or using the Load Pro to rule out high resistance.

I take it you are talking y-pipe to Cat? Take it a part and inspect it. You can grind any high spots down, bend the tabs until they pull well. If you get it flat a single gasket should work.

Good things come to those who wait.

Thanks

If you want to sell it let me know. I'm in Colorado Springs and work on Subaru's for fun. Thanks Larry I have an 05 OBS with a rebuilt engine that's ready to go.

Not that hard to change, but expect a full day under the car if it's your first one. Search torque bind you will find some great write ups.

It's an pretty simple electrical circuit with a few connections. Open, Short or High Resistance is the only faults you can have in a circuit. Power on check is the best check you can do but harder to do. Easy stuff, have the shop open and clean the main trans connectors.

Easy or hard to change? Thanks, Larry

The question is what will it cost you to buy it back from the insurance company. It does not look to bad, if you could post pics of the engine compartment and frame rails... we could tell you more. In parts it's worth the most unless someone wants to put it on the road as a personal Subaru.

Subaru engine will airlock if not filled and burped properly. Why did you change those parts? Was it overheating before the change? Did you rule out Head Gaskets? Look in your overflow bottle, is there black oily stuff in there? If so your HG are most likely gone. 2.2 swap is a great option.

Get a nice 98-99 Subaru outback with a bad 2.5 DOHC engine and do the 2.2 swap. You will be in a newer car and love the engine.

95 2.2

2.2 or 2.5? When was the timing belt and Idler gears and water pump done last. I'd start by pulling the two t-belt end covers and see if the cams line up correctly. If not its a timing issue. You can bend valves so turning by hand is a great idea.

There are two 12mm bolt holes in the and the backs as well. You can drive the bolts in to break the rust.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157364-99-outback-22-swap-random-p0325-p0303/ Always a good idea to search the Form and see what you find. I think the link above will help you out. Good Luck, Larry

Yes, it will bolt right up. Make sure the vac lines on the top are the same. If so you are good.

New knock sensor on order. I swapped in a used one, that ohm out correctly. New one going in and a seafoam treatment.

I did the engine swap a couple of years ago. Sold it to a fellow at work. He had the knock sensor P0325 & misfire on #3 P0303 pretty random for over a year. I suggested the normal: NGK Copper Plugs NGK Spark Plug Wires Gave him a knock sensor to put on gave him a set of fuel injectors to swap in He wanted to sell the car, so I got it back. He had not followed my advice on the NGK plugs and wires so I installed a set and drove the car for a couple of weeks. I sold it to another family friend the they drove it for over a month before the P0325 & P0303 codes came back. There is a slight miss, but over all runs well. About 210K mileage, 5sp. I have not adjusted the valves or taken a compression test. Other things? Thanks, Larry

Stay away from the turbo versions. Nothing but more work and less reliability IMHO.

Pics attached. The rear small hole is where the push plug goes in for the door sill plastic trim. The large hole is the one I cut in with the hole saw. Hope this helps someone down the line.