lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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Yes Plug and Play. You may have to swap the Y-pipe if one was a dual port and the other is single Port exhaust. Yes Manual and Trans engines are interchangeable you just have to swap the flywheel/flex plate over. -
Picked up a 99 Impreza Sedan. I could rotate the crank but the cams did not turn. Got it home, pulled the cover and teeth on the crank gear portion of the belt are all sheared off. Toothed Idler Frozen solid. New T-Belt and pulleys and it fired up. No valve tick that I can detect. In pretty sad shape, needs TLC but it will be a good Subaru again! NAPA belt, first time I have ever seen teeth sheared off a belt.
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A few years ago I had picked up a 2.2 from a fellow. I pressure washed it and then it sat for a month. I had the same issue, the crank was hitting something. I use the borescope at work and looked in the cylinders. Rust had built up on the wall stopping the piston. I soaked it in trans fluid for a few days and then slowly worked it back and forth until it rotated freely. Never had an issue with the engine after that. Good luck.
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If you sleeping in the back Legacy Outback! You will like the extra room
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There is an 2004 in the COS UPAP. I don't know if it has the trans you need. Subaru Outback 2004 h6 s I008
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Auto or Manual? Do you have Spark? Will it start if you put a little gas in the Intake? Is the crank turning or just the starter? (did they put the flex plate bolts in?
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Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so you have a code. You can search the USMB to find the process to pull the code.
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Yep, great swap.
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97 legacy gt 2.5
lmdew replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Anything is possible with enough $$$$. Comes down to how much you want to send and the reliability of the engine once it's built. Read the Franken Motor thread. -
Call Mike at 970 217 7551 - for $1500 or so he will rebuild it. You can also Call Shawn at Retroroo 720-440-1662, also a rebuilder. Or CCR, sorry I don't have there phone, also in Denver.
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I can buy 24 Subaru (96-99) for that price.
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What CEL code are you getting? Cutting wires is never a good idea! Most engine sensors are very low voltage and any corrosion or poor connections can set a code. When the engine detects Knocks, it retards the timing to prevent knocks and thus the loss of performance. 5-30 oil is recommended for most Subaru's. Since this started after the oil change, you might want to start there. New Oil and a Subaru filter are way less than you've spent in parts and time.
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Swap to Disk Brakes. I have everything you need $200 + shipping from CO 80919
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If the cleaner does not fix it, you can clean the resister with a light abrasive. There are two units, one on the each side of the tank.
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does it do the same thing if you shift it manually, 1, 2 ,3 D?
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Yes, Subaru parts
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I would not trust the JB weld fix. The IAC or Throttle body are easy to come by. Heck for $20 shipped I'd send you both.
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Get the CEL Codes first. Then apply the suggestions above as indicated by the code.
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Check nasioc.com. You may find more information there. Most USMB folks are Lifting their Subarus.
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How's the reset of the system. I have lots of good Colorado dual port header pipes. $60 shipped to a work/business address.
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I've gotten some off Ebay, it was a long time ago. I've also used the old plastic and mounted in a sealed low beam lights. You have to cut out some of the back plastic but they will go in.
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NGK copper plugs and plug wires!
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Search the code, there is lots of good information hear and at the outback form. CarDoc has a very extensive article on it. You did the right thing, start with the easy stuff first: - Fuel Filter - NGK plugs and plug wires if needed - Check for air and vac leaks
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Drive shaft most likely, Were the U-joints checked, free movement? Did you make sure the front and rear diff were the same ratios?
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They will be OK, did you mark the rotation?
