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Showing results for tags 'Loyale'.
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As the title says, I'm curious as to what rim/tire combinations are available if you're running a stock height Loyale. I've read the Official 6-Lug Re-Drill Thread, but most of the posts on there seem to be related to cars with lifts. Pictures would be very appreciated! Thank you! -
I have this 92 loyale that the driver side electric window is starting to really move slowly into place all the way up. Have to help pull it up. I was checking prices and autozone was like 144 dollars for a rebuilt motor. Are there any newer subaru models whose motors might work? Anyone got the motor for a better price somewhere else? Any other options, like is it easy to take apart and change brushes? Are brushes available for it? Any opinions would help.
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91 loyale wagon runs and starts first time. After driving for 10 minutes turn off won't restart. Turns over, have spark, have fuel. Checked all plugs and fuses. Let it sit for a couple of hours and no problem restarts and drives fine.
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hello, I have a 92 loyale and i just recently swapped the transmission to the dual range. I got the car running and drove it around for probably an hour. I had put the car into 4hi with no problems, I popped her into 4lo and the car just stayed in neutral, the transmission would still shift into all gears put just wasn't connecting to the engine. Put it back into 4hi and 2wd and still stuck in neutral. Im guessing something is up with the transfer case. in 2wd the car will occassionally move a fraction of an inch. Any ideas?
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Hello all, First off I've got a 1990 loyale, base ea82 EFI, 5 speed Sooooooooo about 3 months ago I notice a pretty dramatic drop in my fuel economy 30-32mpg down to 18-20mpg. Around the same time my subie started dying around the same spot on my commute home (13min into my 18min commute). When it died I'd here a clicking sound and poof! engine off. While rolling I press in the clutch, turn it over, it starts and I'm on my way. Well yesterday I drive to church and after service I go to start my car and I can't get it to fire. It turns over, and every now and again a few cylinders will light but its only a few sputters and gone. I popped off a fuel line and turned it over and it looks like the fuel pump is happy. Tonight I'll pull the plugs and see if I can get a couple clues as to what is going on but I'm pretty stumped..... The plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, battery, and timing belts are all pretty new (<9 months). Any ideas??? I kinda wonder about the MAF but I don't think that would come into play until after the vehicle is warmed and the ECU kicks in. Thanks! -K
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Edit* Moved to members rides build tread section. Picked it up in Seattle drove it back to Oakland. 1200 miles later. Adventure approved! Rambn Wagon is a weekend adventure vehicle. A sweet update from my 87 Wagon Gl "Leon" My first Soob. Stoked to have got this awesome wagon through USMB. Nice guy up in Seattle. Thanks! Previous owners have put some nice workin into project. Only fitting it seams most of the work was done somewhere in the WA forest at a subaru custom garage. Fellow named Lance Telling made the rear bumer/Spare arm. And did most the work on the vehicle as far as I am aware. Not sure if you're on USMB but good job dude Where she sits 140k Dual range Swap Rear Disc 15s Pugs Intake rotate "Under hood snokel" Custom rear Bumper Tire Arm Plans Lift 2inch Square DL HID Headlight swap Maxima Alt conversion Suspension- Rear -Toyota KYB with Stock Spring Front -Stock ford spings if I can find at local picknpull Custom- steel round Front light bar/bumper Winch under bumper mount Skid plate Roof Basket Fold out tow tongue Current issues to fix 1) Only had one "field" fix on drive down the Coast. After a very loud first drive. Felt around breathing in exhaust till I found the hot air blasting out of the exhaust man gasket. Only 4 bolts, 2 new gaskets and 10$ in A cold walmart parking lot should have only taken 30 min. but of course even after long PB Bastr soak. The last bolt came out thread full of Alu so. back to O'reillies for tap and bolts... Held the whole trip... tap job was not clean but it held for 1200 miles. so im happy with it for now. BUT... there must be more exhaust leaks cause damn! she smells at idle.. Going to switch some stuff from Gl this weekend to try to pass smog next week. If i sniff around under the hood I always go to EGR valve area. Thinking a new gasket and a good clean might help. But also going to search around when I have more time and check vacuum leaks. Whats best way? spray something and looking for idle increase? Any areas I should check first or advice would be appreciated! 2) Has a slight lifter tick on port side and valve cover leak on other side... 3) Etape CEL fix needs to be sorted out. Right now im thinking to try n rewire to adjacent light so that it behaves like it should on key turn to pass smog. Need to check for codes but previous owner said it has been perm on since D/r trans swap... Don't understand what would cause that to go chasing right now so the electrical trick is easier i hope.. just to get through smog.. Anyone Ever had problems with D/r swap into Loyale i'm assuming its from a GL judging on center console but that could be from different what ever its from it looks fresh! nice and clean! Alright here some photos! Thanks
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Any one going this year I'm dragging my loyale down again this year last year in the forester sucked this year is different for me though instead of runing around trying to get my car together I'm gona run it as is I'm Gona trailer it down throw all my spare parts in the truck and repair as needed and spend my time working on my house right on the edge of the park by soggy lake I can almost see the northern most hammer trails from the house the property touches the park on 3 sides so I can go wheelin right out my front door Im stoke on the loyale for this year with all the porting and custom intake manifold and free flowing exuast the thing is running like a mad dog right now and I've got some new all terains for it and a 2ft light bar It should be fun out there I just have to patch the front bumper I over loaded my trailer and was moving it over logs boards and bumpers and other car parts and I bent the reciver part all up aperently my bumper couldn't handle the 2000lb tongue wait of the unbalanced car hauler being forced over 6x6s it held but it just makes me wounded if its strong enuff for the big winch if I get pinched in somewhere and have to winch at a wiered angle so I'm Gona add some gussets and a safety chain to it just in case and try not to move any more unballenced loaded car trailers and see how it goes my only prep this year is a tire change and a bumper repair Should only be a days work which is good because I only have a few more free days before I leave
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Hi all, I have a 1991 Loyale with manual transmission, and I am attempting to remove the 4WD indicator light switch. This is my next step in diagnosing the problem of the dashboard indicator light not coming on when the vehicle is in 4WD. I have confirmed that the vehicle is properly engaging and disengaging from 4WD when pressing the pushbutton on the shifter. I believe I have located the 4WD indicator light switch on the top rear of the transmission. Due to the location, I can barely access the plastic connector, and I am having a bear of a time getting my fingers in any position to disconnect the connector. Also, I am not sure how I'll be able to access the switch itself. I have read posts that say this is a pain in the butt. It sure is - does anyone have tips? Thanks. - Jason -
Hi I have a 92 loyale and having heater trouble and I've done everything I can think of to get it to work and it still won't.. Wondering if there is a heater control valve and where that might be
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I HAVE A 92 LOYALE, EARLIER THIS SUMMER MY ALTRINATOR WAS ON IT'S WAY OUT, THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER TO POWER THE INJECTORS I BELIEVE SO I COULD ONLY DRIVE AROUND REALLY SLOW ANY TIME I GAVE IT GAS IT WOULD LURCH, WELL AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 50KM THAT DAY WHEN I STOPPED DRIVING I NOTICED THE CAR WAS SMOKING LOTS! WELL NOW OIL LEAK OUT OF EVERY WHERE, LIKE IT BUILT UP PRESSURE AND BLEW SEALS, OR IS STILL BEING PRESSURIZED SOME WHERE. PERHAPS PVC VALVE? ALSO I DEVELOPED A EXTERNAL HEAD GASKET LEAK WHICH MAKES ME WONDER IF THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER AT THE TIME TO POWER THE FAN, I'VE CHECKED COMPRESSION ONE READS A BIT LOWER THAN THE OTHERS, IF I REMEMBER THEY WERE AROUND 175-180.......NO SURE IF THOSE NUMBERS ARE CORRECT. WEIRD THING IS I CAN DRIVE 400KM AND LOSE THE SAME AMMOUNT OF IIL IF I DRIVE 40KM IN SHORT TRIPS TO TOWN AND BACK. IF ANY ONE HAS ADVICE, OR SIMILAR STORIES PLEASE SHARE THEM, I PLAN TO PULL THE ENGINE AND DO THE WORK, BUT I WANT TO THROW OUT THE MESSAGE FIRST. I LOVE THE CAR, BUT IT'S BEEN A HEAD ACHE TO BE HONEST. -
I HAVE A 92 LOYALE, EARLIER THIS SUMMER MY ALTRINATOR WAS ON IT'S WAY OUT, THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER TO POWER THE INJECTORS I BELIEVE SO I COULD ONLY DRIVE AROUND REALLY SLOW ANY TIME I GAVE IT GAS IT WOULD LURCH, WELL AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 50KM THAT DAY WHEN I STOPPED DRIVING I NOTICED THE CAR WAS SMOKING LOTS! WELL NOW OIL LEAK OUT OF EVERY WHERE, LIKE IT BUILT UP PRESSURE AND BLEW SEALS, OR IS STILL BEING PRESSURIZED SOME WHERE. PERHAPS PVC VALVE? ALSO I DEVELOPED A EXTERNAL HEAD GASKET LEAK WHICH MAKES ME WONDER IF THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER AT THE TIME TO POWER THE FAN. IF ANY ONE HAS ADVICE, OR SIMILAR STORIES PLEASE SHARE THEM, I PLAN TO PULL THE ENGINE AND DO THE WORK, BUT I WANT TO THROW OUT THE MESSAGE FIRST. I LOVE THE CAR, BUT IT'S BEEN A HEAD ACHE TO BE HONEST.
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I currently have zovak hpw401s and they are 185/70/r13 on my Loyale. I want to get some general grabber AT2s which are 27 x 8.5R14. my wheels measure 14 inches across. I have seen other people with thus same wheel/ tire combination i am just not sure if my wheels are the same size. Thanks
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Hello i have a 1992 Loyale recently replaced the power steering pump, and my steering still sucks anyone know why?
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Hello, I have a '92 Loyale FWD 3spd that I love to death. Since it's about to start getting cold (-11 degrees on the worst day) I decided I'd try installing a remote starter as I have direct line-of-site to my car from my living room window. Obligatory pic: The super simple starter box: http://www.compustar.com/product/cs800-s/ I've dealt with wiring quite a bit before, so I consider all of my connections to be solid and well insulated. The problem: The cs800 has 2 separate 12v+ constant wires, both connected directly to the battery. Each wire has a 30a inline fuse. One of these fuses always blows as soon as I attempt a remote start. I am assuming one 12v supplies power to the starter/ign and the other 12v supplies power to the accessories. Troubleshooting: -Cut the remote-start 12v to starter wire, still blows. -Took out EVERY fuse from the fuse panel (even spfi, fuel, etc). At this point all that is drawing power from the device on start is acc, and ignition. -Went back through all my connections and made sure they were good/correct. I'm starting to wonder if my cluster has a short in it because it was the only thing on when I had all the fuses out. My next test was going to be taking out the cluster and unplugging it to see if that helps. Now, not to muddy up the waters even more, but it does seem like my car has had an existing electrical issue since I bought it. It has 12.9v when off and a little over 14v when running which seems ok. HOWEVER if at a stoplight with my blinker on, I can audibly hear and see my dash lights dimming slightly when the blinker clicks on. Also, the heater blower will run faster if I turn off the headlights, etc. I don't think this should be happening with a healthy 14v cruising down the road. Let me know if you have any ideas or further troubleshooting that I can perform. Thanks in advance. -
Ive been keeping my eye out for any gls in the yakima area for cheap, needed something to drive around town or just have some fun with while i work on my legacy. Didn't find much, but i did run into a 92 loyale at a car lot smaller then a gas station, that had a bunch of stupid little things wrong with it and i knew the guy wasn't telling me everything, but it runs amazingly, the a/c works awkwardly well, and its only 500$. I put it through its paces for almost a 1/2 hour test drive and nothing went wrong. I think i'm about to buy it, and hopefuly build it once the legacy is done. The push button 5spd is nifty, but not what i wanted. I'll post pictures eventually, i broke my knee cap 7 weeks ago, and i'm already buying a manual lol
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Hello All, So I successfully converted to a dual range transmission. So it drives awesome! Problem is that the 4wd light does not work? So I have 3 other single range transmissions on the ground. The switches look the same but won't work? Any idears? Thanks, Eric
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This is probably a stupid question but..... I just about finished the ej22 swap into my loyale everything was going smoothly until my fuel pump stopped working again. the relay clicks when turned to start like it should but the fuel pump is not priming anymore. will i be needing to replace the fuel pump or is it more of a wiring issue? also i do have spark so i don't think its an ecu issue. any help would be greatly appreciated
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so I would like to buy a '91 loyale i saw on craigslist, and I came across this forum while doing some research and you seem like the community to ask about this stuff! for starters I'd want to lift it, most likely 2" and get some bigger tires on there possibly 27"? any advice for lifting it? is there a good kit I can buy anywhere? on the other hand, I know people have built their own and I was wondering if anyone who has could tell me about their experience doing so? what about finding a good roof basket? any advice? the only work I've done on cars so far was alongside my father and it was mostly just simple replacements for my pos starter car when I was 16, so I'm really pretty much a novice to this and if anyone has any advice at all on what I can do to improve the loyale to more of an off-road status, I would love to hear it! -
Hello - I just bought a beater 86 DL wagon with so much friable plastic it's kind of silly. I have a possible line on a parts car, but it's a 91 Loyale. Does anyone know what can be swapped right over w/o too much trouble? I've been looking at this thread on this forum, and it seems like I should be able to switch out, say, the door panels (or entire doors?) but the thread is comparing an 87 GL with the Loyale. Does everything still apply to my 86? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131244-dumb-question-loyale-vs-gl-wagons/ Thanks!
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So I'm putting the engine in my 1991 loyale back together because some clutz took it apart. It's almost complete but I'm at a loss on what goes here by the alternator by the plug hanging beside it. Any help?
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I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost
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okay so i have basically completed the ej swap, everything except the wiring. most the wiring is done but i cant get it to run. considering hiring somebody to troubleshoot. how much would somebody with ej wiring experience charge to come over and trouble shoot my wiring issues? I live in Woodinville thanks in advance
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Hi, For months I've had trouble trying to get my '92 Subaru Loyale started. It shut off back in February, couldn't start it again for days. A mechanic said the timing had slipped, he fixed everything, put in new distributor, timing belts, a few new hoses, new coil. But it still gave him trouble starting up. He could fire it once and it ran good, but cut it off and try to start it again and it wouldn't work. Next he did some kind of coil bypass and said the problem is that the power transistor/ignition module was getting hot and needed to be replaced, which explained why he said I wouldn't be able to start the car again until about 5 to 10 minutes after it ran because the transistor/module was too hot. He also said my starter was going and that I should work on getting that replaced. He didn't want to go any further and pay for that or the ignition module, so left it to me. So the car did run great like he said, but I still had the problem of having to wait 5 to 10 minutes to start it again each time. Then one night my car made a weird sound under the hood on the road and it slowly started coming to a stop, check engine light was on. Wouldn't crank even after I gave it time to cool. Then after about an hour it started up and I got back on the road but it died down again. Had to get it towed back to my area. After that I got the new starter put in and it started up fine but again the engine died after some minutes. Then recently I finally got that new ignition module put in and also came with a genuine Subaru coil. It started up after a friend of mine who works on cars charged the battery, and it ran great. We let it run for about 10 minutes to get the kinks all out after months of not running. Then we cut it off and tried to crank it again and it wouldn't start. I chalked the problem up to be that the mechanic who fixed my car the first time messed something up with the coil, doing some kind of bypass, but now I'm puzzled as to what could really be going on. Every time I get a jump to the battery the car will start up just fine, but then cut it off and try to start it again and it won't run. Really weird. Me and my friend also noticed that when he kind of touched the wires to the ignition module connector while I tried to crank engine that it roared to life, yet it will also start up when you charge the battery. I really don't get what's going on. Not sure if the issue is that I need a new ignition module connector, or a new battery. Can anybody help me?
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I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?
