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Recently bought myself a project. A 78' Subaru Brat. I bought it for a very decent price for what I got. It needs a lot of work on the body, but it runs very well. The progress is going well and I plan on running it stock until I get the money to put parts into it. Future plan (after stock); an engine swap to an EE20 (boxer diesel) and air bag suspension so that I can bring it back up to stock height from a lowered stance (not tucked or cambered) I'm stuck on what color and after market rims to go with. I would stick with the stock rims but it's hard to find tires for 13' rims. Any suggestions?
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But it is. Unfortunately. I'm sorry to ask but there is no one else in this world who has tried hard enough to get this to work. Unfortunately there is no spark. So here's the project. It's a EJ22T from a 93 Legacy (Auto) going into my 86 Brat (Manual) with a dual range 5 speed transmission from a 85 GL. I did not see this engine run as it was pulled out from a wrecking yard. Compression is solid. Only 165'000 km on the engine and it looks like it was dealership maintained. Everything is hooked up "properly" as so I've been told by what I would call "Subaru gurus". These are guys who have done numerous engine swaps before. Everyone has been amazingly enthusiastic, supportive and generous with this project as I could have imagined. It is all very much appreciated. However we can't figure out why shes not sparking. There is power to the coil. Coil has been checked of ohms and swapped out with three backups, they are all good. Plugs have been checked for ohms, they're good. Cam and Crank sensors have been checked for ohms, they are good and swapped again with checked and good sensors. Five grounds in the engine are good. ECU has been swapped three times and they are all good. It is grounded. Fuel pumps hard, fast and fresh. I'v had to replace a few connections due to old/dried out cracked wires but everything looks and tests good now! We're out of ideas now which is why I ask the godly experts of this board. Any thoughts or ideas are very much appreciated. Here are a couple galleries of the swap so far! http://imgur.com/a/EjDxS http://imgur.com/a/N6NzX -
so this morning for the first time since I figured out how to start my car in cold, I had one hell of a time getting it running. as I found out a few months ago, I have to pretty much prime the engine by stepping on the gas twice before cranking and itll fire right up. however this morning after doing the same thing, it just kept cranking with out firing. tried stepping on the gas while it was cranking, and nothing. after a minute of this it finally fired, but was only holding about 500 rpm idle. that's not so unusual, as ive seen it do this idle before. when I tried to bring up the rpm, it killed it right away. start it back up, same low idle. now I can bring it up to about 1000 before it dies. try again, and it goes to about 2000 before it wants to die. I held the rpm at about 1700 for a few minutes before I saw the temp needle move, and after that it seemed fine. im guessing my carb somehow threw it self out of wack, as ive had it be hesitant to rev up when cold like the mixture is off a bit. any ideas or consensus on my idea of whats wrong? and if it is the carb, where is the mixture screw? I believe I have the hitachi carb.
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For those who like a story: This thing came up for sale in November. I was 3 days late to the CL posting. The ad read "1984 Subaru Brat - $600" I glanced at the ad. Horrendous choice in colors. Back to the future inspired maybe... I looked at the interior pictures. I saw an automatic shifter. "Ew" I thought. The next picture was of the fun tops. It probably took me a solid minute to figure out that something was weird. The only auto brats I've seen have ALL been either hardtop or turbo. My pulse started to rise and when I clicked on the picture of the engine bay I nearly lost it. Of all Subarus to pop up in DFW - a Turbo Brat. It was all hands on deck at that point. I shot him a text and got an address. I went and pulled the money out of the bank. And went on my way. The guy was DESPERATE to get rid of it. Claimed everyone had been flaking out. The thing looked like it hadn't been touched in ages. Someone had started tearing it apart it looks like. All the accessories were inside the car and bolts strewn about all over. Nice. But everything looked like it was there. Has a 2" lift. ODO read 90k. Guy said he bought it to STI swap and lost interest. I was in my S13 so I couldn't exactly tow it. He wouldn't accept money unless it came off his driveway. I was too stubborn to call a flatbed, so I walked away. My Grandpa was out of town so I couldn't use his truck. Ultimately it sold before I could arrange transport. I was pretty bummed, but it was my own fault. I searched everyday too see if the new owner would pop up on here. And they never did. Then one day I'm on CL doing a sweep for a decent car to flip and I see the same Brat listed. I nearly lost it. I Had another chance. I offered the guy my S13 as trade and he was stoked about the deal. Who wouldn't be? Running and driving 240sx for a non running Brat that he had no comprehension of the mechanics of. I got a trailer, and I set forth to pick up my blue lobster and bring it home where it would be cared for. For those who got a headache from the amount of pointless text: have some pictures I tore the top end apart today... And found bank 2 full of coolant. Stripped intake bolt. Coolant looked fresh. Guess the guy who bought it tried to get it going somewhat. The gasket was TOAST. Hopefully that's all that kept this thing from running normal. Slowly replacing rubber hoses and things I see that want attention. This is a new learning experience for me and Im looking forward to the challenge.
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So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
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Bought a clutch cable and it seems too long. Could somone show the routing and how it attaches to the pedal. -
So I know you can do it. But I have heard that you shouldn't remove the trailing arm. Anyone know why? Can anyone tell me or show me the steps to replace rear wheel bearings on my brat.
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So previously i had some headlight and blinker issues, and after taking 'grumpy car', as ive dubbed it, to a subaru dealer, they told me theres a short in the wiring harness and didnt fix anything. Yet somehow havent had blinker problems since. Anyways fastforward 3 months to now, my headlights completely stopped working, along with the horn, hazards (blinkers still functional), cooling fans and memory power for the dash clock. Did a fuse blow or a wire come loose or hopefully not some carestrophic short? From what ive seen any fuses i know of are still good, so im a little baffled -
Not sure what this is... Or its purpose... Looks like i has a filter inside. Connecter to two vacuum lines? Maybe both are fresh air? Sits just to the rear drivers side of the intake manifold and engine. Off a 1986 GL Hatchback. Probably the same for Brats. Thanks! If you look close you can see that the two hoses connect to two different switches (?) on the intake manifold.
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OK- so I finally got my 1987 BRAT (big blue) running good and hooked up with a working alternator from a 94 pathfinder (seen here) and I've still got a few wiring issues and would really appreciate some help figuring them out! Problem 1: Fuel sender wire got burnt off during some welding, does anyone know where the 2 wires come out of the cab from? Wanna just take them back on a set of new wires anyway, stuff on the rear end isn't too pretty. Problem 2: Does anyone know where the power wire for the Dash/Heater control back lighting is? Power to those are out, while the headlights and stuff all work. Minor problem: The dash voltmeter ALWAYS reads full volts, no matter what. Even if the battery is pretty much dead, it just pegs itself at maximum voltage++ Thanks in advance- I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel with by BRAT. -CL -
Video of truck: Starts off stationary - at operating temp 0:10 - 0:30 then fwd 1st at 0:31 - 0:49 4wd lo first gear 0:50 into second last 10 seconds is 4wd lo 2nd gear, but going slow. Only speedo tach and thermometer work. I have oil pressure, and I'm not pushing 18v. I've done a new weber carb, fuel filters, plugs, plug wires, coil, and egr delete. Oil and filter are fresh These are the stock redline Weber subaru kit jets, with the short air filter, and a free flow (hollow cat, single muffler) exhaust Any ideas on what I should do next? This has been the problem my almost my entire time owning this thing, would be great to finally be able to floor it without killing it.
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So I recently bought a 1986 BRAT and the man I bought it from said that you could put a 5-speed from a different model in the same generation. I was wondering if that is true and if so I was hoping you guys could help as to which trans it was, and some general buying tips. Thanks!
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Greetings, I did a little work on the 1985 BRAT this weekend. I finally got rid of that pesky EGR valve warning light. Following the advice of others on this forum I learned that the light comes on every 60,000 miles irrespective of EGR status. As wikipidia states, the function of EGR is to reduce emissions: The light comes on to remind you to remove the EGR valve and perform a cleaning procedure that is described in the service manual. Some folks perform this, some ignore it, and some install a delete kit that looks like this: Which ever way you choose to go, this will not reset the light. To do this you must get up under the dash and swap a single electrical connection (at 60k) from Blue to blue to Blue to Green. At 120k you reverse the swap back to Blue to Blue. I performed the swap this weekend and spent a good amount of time under the dash looking at the rats nest to find the appropriate connections. Below are some photos to document the procedure so as to help others. First take the panel off below the steering wheel, to reveal the wiring. The wires in question will be found behind the fuse box area. See the Blue connector behind the fuse box in this photo for the actual location: Once you find this, unplug the cable and locate a similar looking plug in the opposite color. Here is a look at all three plugs. You may need to do some fidgeting to provide enough slack to make the connection. Here is what the final connection looks like: One word of caution. by spending so much time crawling under the dash, I managed to break my step assembly trim component (the plastic thing that says subaru next to the seat). This was a major bummer. Take precautions not to put too much weight on this piece. Cheers, Chris -
I found this search term finds mostly BRAT parts and eliminates all the extraneous toys, RC Cars, Key chains, dash covers etc. Put the following in the ebay search bar: subaru brat -tamiya -tamya -"hot wheels" -hotwheels -toy -hw -shifter -"hot wheel" -keychain -coverking Link for example
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I've have collected 467 photos of my favorite BRATs. Several of the photos are from the USMB gallery while many come from other places around the web. I am the proud owner of two 85s and am looking for inspiration as I fix them up. Below is my favorite BRAT which is currently featured as my computer wallpaper. Some like them slammed, some like them jacked, others prefer stock or almost destroyed. What is your favorite BRAT photo?
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Hey guys I need some help. I used to have a 1980 brat but this seems like a slightly different ea71. So, i bought it and it has been pretty bad since I bought it. the previous owner replaced the cap and rotor as well as the ignition coil. I have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump (it was spraying gas everywhere), sprayed liberal amounts of carb cleaner and seafoam to clean carb out (it was quite dirty), replaced altenator (it died resulting in voltage regulator failure), Volatage regulator, and a couple of fuses that were blown or looked warped. I have a rebuild kit for the carb and I think this is what i need to do to get it to run right. I'm currently stuck because I don't have enough power to reach 30mph or go up the pass I need to. It smells rich and backfires. Looks like one of the jets isn't working? I am also planning on replacing wires and plugs. I have a spare carb off my old 80, but it need help too but at least it ran? Should I just swap it, would my kit work on rebuilding it and swapping? I can't seem to find a year specific diagram. This has the round airbox rather than the tire forming ones. Any help would be amazing thank you.
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Hi, im after some help if possible. Ive got a 1994 brat that ive put an ej20g into. Im all but done, I had the engine running 3 days ago. was running beautifully. I fitted 3 gauges to it, tach, water temp, boost, and i put a blow off valve on it. since then i cant get it to run. it cranks but ive got no spark or injector pulse. but there is fuel pressure. The engine had messed me around in the past. I moved the bracket with the ignitor, checked all wires (fixed a couple) and cleaned up some earths. Which got it running but now im back to square one. so im thinking it maybe something deeper. Ive replaced the crank sensor and ive connected all the vacuum hoses (not the originals, what ever i could find). Im thinking it could be the self shut off control not working right. Ive done some research and a few people have said about rewiring the main relay or fit a diode. If anyone knows of this problem any help is appreciated. Any other ideas on why it wont start would be helpful too. Thanks
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Sorry, double post
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I have been trying to pick out some new treads for the 85 ea81. Seems impossible to find any badass tires in this setup so I moved on to cheap... What are your thoughts on these skins?
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Hello again my fellow old school enthusiasts!! So early this year the head gaskets finally bit the dust on my daily/shop truck 83 brat. unfortunately it had also been whacked severely in the bed/rear quarters, not once, but twice. i took it off the road and started driving my brz for the summer and started planning a restoration, got a decent straight t-top shell, started getting parts for the engine rebuild, etc. then another 83 turbo fell into my lap. of course, it died on the previous owner, and he was well out of his depth to diagnose. he took it to another decent reputation subaru shop, who was frankly again out of their depth. so i got it reasonably cheap not running. swapped my vane air meter since the previous dummy, er, owner took it apart, new coil, new starter and re ran the trigger wire, and swapped over my distributor (coincidentally a "new" reman only a few months old before the other 83 was decommissioned), fired right up, runs decent, a little leaky, but no serious issues. but... this car is a good bit rougher than mine, even including my body damage. i am in desperate need of the needle bearings, or sizing, for the upper section of the tilt column (right behind the wheel) not destroyed right taillight assembly washer bottle would be nice. those are the biggest, i do need a windshield gasket, but it is looking good from subaru. lower dash trim, driver's side. turbo emblems for the mirrors i won't get greedy, and just leave it there for now, i'm sure as i continue refreshing this one, more will arise, and i am already getting a list together for the full restoration project car. any help with either parts or sources would much appreciated!! -
Hi theres, I did I site search with no help coming up, so I thought id try here: I own a 91 brumby which has the ea81 and 4 speed in it, diff ratio is 3.7, I am wanting to swap that engine and box out and fit a rebuilt ea81 and a 5 speed my friend has a spare ea81 and 5 speed box he said came out an early 80's model brumby (all the info he had) my question is does anyone know what box this is attached to his engine as I cant find any info and want to match the ratios (on side of gearbox is stamped : FM-4 and written on a foil sticker : 805067 any help what car the box is out of or what ratios it has would be very helpful thanks
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Hello, I have been eyeing a 1980 Brat with no motor. Wondering how much work is involved in swapping a motor from my 96 impreza and possibly the suspension. Keep in mind I have no idea what i'm doing... so I'd have a knowledgeable shop perform the work. Is this possible, any clue how many man hours would be involved? 1996 Impreza Engine: Automatic, 4 cyl. boxer, sequential multi-port fuel injected, distributorless ignition 16 valve SOHC 2.2L: 135 hp, 140 torque@4400rpm 160k Miles 1980 Brat ala Craigslist for 900 bucks. What do you think? Possible? Reasonable? Worth the effort? Any guess on cost?
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Hello all, Just bought my third Subie. I loved my 96 impreza outback so much i went older and more badass. I scored this excellent low miles pristine 85 BRAT! The BRAT was purchased by a flipper from the original owner. It has been in Air Conditioned storage according to the flipper since 1991. It appears to be in excellent shape except for one sizable dent in the front right quarter panel. I am having it shipped to me in a couple of weeks and still contemplating mods. Should i raise it two inches... should i lower it... should i leave it stock. I am planning to add a Webber carb and a cat back exhaust. Definitely will hide a better sound system in there and maybe add a roll cage. Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated! I'm working with a world class custom shop to bring her back to road worthy. Not sure if the pushbar, foglights, 4x4 visor tint and cap are stock... It came with an extra set of factory wheels. If you have any suggestions on restoration, swaps or otherwise, I'd love to hear 'em. Otherwise I'll keep combing this forum for info. Thanks for hosting this excellent forum which provides so much wisdom on the legend of the Subie.
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Hi folks, I just took my 1980 Brat in for a safety inspection (part of the process of importing it into Canada). I was told that my front passenger control arm is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm hoping for a second opinion as my understanding is that I just needed to replace the inner tie rod. Two questions: 1) What should I look for to determine if the control arm is shot (it's a Nevada car, rust free and in good shape - just drove across the country) 2) Where could I find a control arm if need be? I've emailed Mountain Tech Subaru and I'm waiting to hear back. This is somewhat time sensitive as I've got about 30 days to complete the importation, though I'm sure I could figure out an extension if need be. Thanks as always, look forward to hearing your advice! -
I have an interesting sound coming from somewhere towards the right front of my 86" Brat. It's not a grinding sound, it is rhythmic and speeds up in correlation with the speed of the car. It's kind of like a "clack clack clack clack" not terribly loud, can't hear it with the radio on. Drives/runs fine. What could this be. What should I do to further diagnose? Thanks for your help! Michael
