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If you’ve got an L series just run the manual MPFI or MPFI turbo drive shafts, they have the correct size inner cups for the diff output stubs on the EJ. If you’ve got a brumby/BRAT/MY model, you could swap the inner DOJ cup from 23 spline to 25 spline. The trick is to make sure the 25 spline cup is for the six ball joint and not the three plastic thingy setup @Al Zhiemer - best of luck mate, I hope the issue is in that adaptor plate! Cheers Bennie

not nessecary. And you'd have to drop the exhaust first. Pull the airbox, and the battery and washer res. Use a 3/4 deep socket on the shouldered end of the spark plug socket. No wobbles needed. Just 2 sockets and 3/8th drive ratchet.

Has anyone ever loosen the motor mounts and jacked up the motor on a 98 Outback to gain better access for removing and replacing the spark plugs? Seems like it might be easier than using 14 extensions and wobblies to get those suckers out. What do ya think?

Wow. You guys are still quoting me? How long ago was that?

It’s easy to keep them working. Just find the dry joint and resolder it. Mine’s not missed a beat since I did this fix. Cheers Bennie

Sure, any one person can choose to do that but it's incorrect as a statement - it's normative and commonplace to replace one bearing as there's no physical reason to replace a bearing that hasn't failed.

Don't even get me started on bloody tyres!!! If I had of known what I know now I would have just built a 3" lift and be done with it. It seems that it won't be long until 215/70 or 75X15 is going to be our only choice if we want a descent all terrain or mud tyre. Another reason I'm now glad I grabbed the 4.44's and stuck in the shed for later reference and all the more reason for an EJ swap. It seems the manufacturers at this stage aren't going to bring in any more 27" tyres, in the not to distant future, the Nankang all terrains will be our only choice (how long for is an unknown) and they are nothing more than a glorified road tyre as far as I'm concerned. The Kuhmo's are a very limited stock and reports are, they will no longer be bringing anymore in. We maybe able to do a group buy but I still don't think there would be enough of us wanting them to make it worth their while. @pease004Other than splitting the box, your choice would be custom made shafts. Custom shafts have good points and bad, these are the top of each for me. Good - You can get them made as strong or as week as you please, your options are only limited by the size of your bank account. Bad - Something goes wrong, it isn't a simple case of going to the local parts store and ordering an off the shelf unit and if you are in a remote area... That could be an issue. If I went custom shafts, I'd look at getting a spare made up at the same time just for those emergency situations. Especially if you are looking at travelling into remote areas. Cheers, Al

And your clock even works

New segment on the channel, product reviews ! First one just dropped. Check it out!

Go here and check the wiring colors http://ae64.com/WRX-pinout.htm

Wheel bearing It’s the other side you haven’t replaced yet. I’d say only 2 out of 10 bad Subaru wheel bearings I’ve ever checked have play even when they’re bad. Play alone is not an accurate diagnosis or it’s a Bad hub on the side you already replaced causing the bearings to fail - I’d replace the entire knuckle assembly or get a new hub.

No, I’ve got an EJ ECU under the dash running an EJ22 You could make the EJ ECU run the EA82 but you’d be better off using the EJ18 ECU and you’d have to fabricate crank angle sensor tabs and a mount for said sensor. I’m sure there will be more stuff than just that but in my mind they’re the major hurdles. Really though if you’ve gone to this effort with the wiring the rest of the conversion is pretty easy! Cheers Bennie

It won't. We have never seen that. One quart in 3k is about what we usually see. Subaru extended the warranty to 10 years / 100k anyway so your covered if the consumption does get too great have the short block swapped before you hit 100k. It's simple really - ask for an oil consumption test. It's free. They will mark the drain plug to ensure nothing changes while you drive. If the consumption isn't quite high enough get a vampire oil analysis pump and suck out enough through the dipstick tube to get over the finish line. New engine block. Done. Trust me the dealer wants the work. Even warranty work. Keeps the service department in business. Technicians got to eat too. GD

Bad or improperly installed trans mount. Allowing the tail of trans to lift up when reversing, which pushes against the shift rod in the wrong direction and pops the trans into nuetral. the fact that the problem was in both trans shows it's not likely a tranny issue. You probably did not need a trans replacement. The shop just F-ed something up doing the clutch job.

Low tension rings are the new now. Thank the Obama administration and their EPA guidelines. Enjoy the MPG benefits. Top off as needed. It's normal and expected for modern engines to use oil. If you "fix" it you will lose MPG's from "enhanced" rings the simply add friction and reduce efficiency. What's the problem with adding oil? When you get right down to brass tacks the issue is a complete lack of understanding engineering principles and trying to apply pre-concieved notions of what is "normal" to machines that no longer follow the 1990's rules of engine design. Subaru's mistake was not increasing the capacity and desensitizing the oil level monitoring so that it doesn't show low till more than 2 quarts down. GD

Here is a LINK to the 2010 Legacy hands free/BT manual for download.

New to the site, but not to Subarus. Here's the latest, 1989 XT6. Been wanting an XT since they came out. I remember seeing the commercials when I was getting my driver's license. Any other XT owners or officianado's please drop me a line, I'm sure I'll be needing advice or other knowledge somewhere along the way. Got this baby for CHEAP due to a cobbled up fuseable link on the clean battery power.

Be sure to watch the coolant level like a hawk. Like before every drive. Water sound in the dash means very low on coolant. My experience has been that after such an event as you describe, low coolant + over normal temperature, is that the head gaskets are damaged. It is a matter of time and cycles until the leak gets big enough to be noticable if you only check weekly. And each low coolant overheat accelerates the failing. Doesn't hurt to be certain before resealing, but be watchful to avoid worse overheat damage.

Yes unless you have a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck, you're not going to grind the shim truly flat. Which could cause camshaft lobe wear issues. I would not attempt this. I have tried lapping them and you might as well be trying to lap diamond. They are quite hard and silicon carbide made no noticeable change to the thickness after several minutes of work. You could soft-jaw it up to the lathe or even super-glue it to a mandrel and use carbide tooling to thin them down also. But that's way beyond the scope of what is sane for most people. I certainly wouldn't bother. Grinding the stem in a fixture or even by hand while turning it against the grinding wheel is sufficient and quick if you are careful. GD

^EG33 may be longer than the EZ? Found this on here, per Emily @ CCrE: EZ30: Engine lengthEZ30 = estimated 445mm = 17.5" - but assuming this is w/OUT the crank? And a very informative EG33 site i came across.

Do you feel it in the driver's seat bottom when you first brake? If so it's the rear brake rotors. I've had a couple Subaru's do this. Hard to track down unless you know about it. s do this.

Nice photo.... ....of it PARKED!????? Show it doing its thing!

90 to 95 non-EGR without changing anything. GD

Here’s the 95 impreza. Lifted on a kit built by yours truly on 30 x9.50’s eg33 5sp ej dual range and rear lsd just a fun toy of mine.

Plus the Tercel, 505(?) and the Magna of the same era - very close back in the day but easily distinguishable apart today! I still Iove the L series and it’s shape. I also love the fact that I can choose what computers to put in it. Currently it has one for the EJ. It’ll stay this way too. Cheers Bennie

EJ251 pistons allow the use of the EJ257 (part number ending in 642) head gasket which is less than half as thick. This solves the head gasket issues the 25D had with blowing fire rings due to the gasket being too thick and allowing too much cylinder wall movement. The 25D was notorious for this and it was widely regarded as a giant mistake by Subaru. The 251 piston/642 gasket combo improves the quench and also increases compression slightly. It does need premium fuel but that's the only trade off. GD

http://imgur.com/gallery/eM4CqMm My first L Series, a 91 EA82 5sp Dual Range Besides a tear in the passenger floor mat the interior is in great condition. 2" lift, new exhaust and rebuilt brakes. A bit of rust here and there but great condition overall for what I paid.

Current sources: http://wordpress.suberdave.com/wp-content/files/EA82/EA2EJ.pdf https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf http://thepantieswithin.com/bwindle/document/Car/EA2EJ.pdf http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads/EA2EJ.pdf I've read, and proofread, and edited. I think I've got it pretty much how I want it. So I'd really like you guys to read it over, and make any changes you guys think are necessary. it's pretty close to being ready to be converted to .pdf form.