ocei77

18.1+/- 1.4 ft lbs. No sequence listed but you generally do the inner two first. Snug them all down, then do the torque. Download fsm. Go to New Gen FAQ sticky, 2nd page under my name. IM is in the fuel injection section. O.

Wheel offset? O.

Look up the fsm first.There is a jdm site, but my link is not working now. Its not an easy job. The best is a lift , because crawling around under 14" of clearance is no fun. Haven't done a Tribeca, but this is what I had to do for a Legacy. Drop the exhaust. Removing any o2 sensor plugs first. Remove heat shield. Remove section of drive shaft close to ext housing.(Legacy is two piece) Remove rear diff. IIRC it took me two and a half hours. I have no idea what you have to remove to get to it. O.

No expert but I did do my heads from a 96 DOHC. I first had them hot tanked. Started with an 80 grit conical to reach close to the valve guides Used 100 grit afterwards. Used cylinders wheels as needed. Did final polishing with Al Oxide buffs. I basically worked on the seams ,splits between the ports and just polished the rest.. I did not port match. Just didn't see the benefit of all the work on a straight NA engine. I cleaned up some of the seams in the IM, but didn't go whole hog. There should be some roughness somewhere in the intake to get some swirl. I did a lot on the exhaust. Unfortunately I discarded the pics. There are some youtube videsos. I was more interested in what NOT to do. They are running happily as we speak. O.

Change the separator plate to the metal type while out. Keep your 96 intake (less restrictive). The only thing you'll have to work around are the evap lines. The 96 has the charcoal canister in the front. O.

What T Stat did you use? Did you fill system from upper hose first? The T stat sits in the bottom of the water pump. O.

Link doesn't work. The 2.5 doesn't take kindly to repeated overheating. The bearings go. This may be what you're encountering. BTW the 96 2.5 requires premium. O.

Air ratchet or impact gun with a continuous use of WD-40 and it will zip right out. Did one by myself and experienced this issue.(The threads are rusted some inside the bushing). When I had to do the other side, I was at a friends shop and once he realized that most of the threads were exposed, he had me spray it. A little back and forth and it came right out (using impact gun). O.

Google the code. It is a fuel too lean condition. Lots of possible causes. Will give you things to check. O.

Have had good fortune with Goodyear Vivas. Good tread life and traction all around. Wal Mart @$90 ea in 16 in sizes. O.

FSM is available. New Gen FAQ Sticky 2nd page under my name. If the same as 97: 4 LBlue, 3 L Red, 2 L Grn, 1 Brown. Double check. O.

PM sent O.

Any codes? Pull the dipstick and see if it stops. Speedometer working? O.

Download copy of FSM. Go to New Gen FAQ 2nd page under my name. The complete wiring diagram is there. Unfortunately the gods that be don't allow us to copy and paste. O.

They will fit. The only issue is the wheel well clearance. They may require rolling the fenders. see : rimsntires.com. You will also be going 7% faster than indicated. ie 64 when 60 is shown. O.

When you look into the tranny you will see the tabs that mate with the notches on the TC. Insert TC, lift an rotate. keep upward pressure as you rotate. It will catch. Keep rotating pushing inwards. It will jump @ two more times. It is fully seated when the outside mounting tabs are about 3/8 of an inch from the tranny block looking from above Before mounting the engine. Give it a few insurance turns to make sure it is fully seated. O.

check opposedforces.com. Get your car and part then afterclicking on the part number you will see usage info. Will list cars that interchange. Could also check car-part.com. It may list it also. O.

The only time this happened to me (not with a Subaru), was indeed related to heat. The solenoid was getting heat soaked and would not work until it cooled. I put a wet rag on it to help cool it and immediate start.. Worth a try.. Replace the contacts and plunger(($10-15 on E Bay) rather than buy a complete starter. O.

+1^ Note the cam and crank marks. The belt marks will not line up again. O.

Yea, that is what happened to my steel terminal. Seemed like the battery post was too small in diameter. Tighten the clamp as much as I could some time ago, but ran out of room to tighten any further. Clamp had not been real tight for some time. Common issue with oem cables and third party batteries. I have used a length of solid copper wire, breaking it off after tightening and the prong from an appliance plug to fill in the gap. O.

After running a while does the light go out? If so, it's related to condensation in the brake booster hose. In this case remove hose and spray with brake cleaner. O.

First you don't need to remove the strut bolts to do an axle. Turn axle so the bevel side faces you. Punch the pin out. Don't turn the wheel. 3/16 punch. 32mm for the axle nut. Good breaker bar (forget the harbor freight one for this), plus a cheater pipe.(that axle nut is REALLY on there) Remove the sway bar bolt. Remove cotter pin from lower ball joint and unscrew the castle nut (19mm). Pry the control arm down( you're not trying to remove the ball joint, so don't remove the bolt that secures it). Now you can swing the hub assembly out. Just pull and it will come out of the tranny and tap the axle side out. New axle bevel has to face the same way. Roll pin into bevel side. Axle side in. If the roll pin won't go all the way through ,the splines are off 180 deg. The control arm up, it will stay in place. Tighten all nuts. Torque the axle nut (@140 ft lbs) then stake it. Before removing the strut bolts at any time (especially the upper) use a chisel to mark the nut and the bolt, this way they can go back the way they came out, saving you a realignment. If no impact gun, a 19mm to hold one side while you wrench on the other. 6 pt sockets and 1/2" drive are best. You need a penetrant of some type. The fsm is available in the sticky above, 2nd page under my name. O.

I use a c clamp and compress til I feel a lot of resistance, hang it vertically and do someting else and repeat til done. Have never had an issue. O.

OOps! O.

The old style two piece which many of us prefer (the hydraulic part seldom goes bad). Why?, less mfg cost. O