carfreak85

Can we see a side-by-side photo comparison of the two parts? Claiming that there is "...better flow and more power than the other brand..." without actually doing any testing or presenting any data is quite a stretch. I'm not saying that I have a problem with you, or your product. In fact, I've been very happy with your stuff in the past. I am concerned that you're making these claims for the sake of marketing versus actually knowing that the marketing is based in truth and testing. If you're interested, I'd be happy to do flow testing between the two parts and facilitate dyno testing to help you nail down some hard numbers.

How much more airflow does this adapter allow and how much power does this make versus the Redline part? Have the parts been on a flow bench or have you dyno'd the two parts back-to-back?

This is not a trivial question, a lot of folks are too lazy to do the legwork to find the proper dimensions. Required reading: Engineers. We make the Simplest Task Impossible - http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/news/0209scc-techno/ Scrub Radius and the Dave Point - http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/news/0909scc-technobabble/

As someone who works on the corporate side of the mechanic's world, I would say it depends on what your long term goals are. Do you want to wrench on other people's cars your whole life? Do you want to fabricate and build hot rods? Do you want to run a garage, or do you want to manage a fleet? Be able to troubleshoot/modify/repair electrical circuits is probably the top thing, as stated above. Being able to weld, while also being car-savvy, can open a lot of doors. Working directly for an OEM gets you a foot in the door to the corporate side of things. Being a well-educated, well-rounded citizen of the world is probably the best thing you can do in life in general.

If you're only going to keep it for a year, why not just restore it instead of hacking it up to your personal tastes? Doesn't make a ton of sense to me, but it's your car...

R180s do NOT have finned diff covers, but DO have rear diff temp sensors. I've seen the finned ones on outbacks, for sure.

I'm having the same issues with the wife's '99 Forester. Once the front wheels slip, there is a noticeable delay in the rear-drive engagement. The fronts spin for a half-second or so, then BAM! AWD engages. It's bad enough that it once nearly caused me to lose control of the car. I spoke with a service manager at Chaplin's about it and apparently in '00+ there is a different rear-drive clutch computer that has a more gradual AWD engagement vs the abrupt nature of the '99's computer. I think that might be part of the story, but, there is a good chance the duty-C solenoid may need to be replaced. The ATF in her car isn't new, but it doesn't have a ton of miles on it.

Do you have any of the original BRAT turbo parts still taking up space? I'm ALWAYS on the lookout for spares.

I know that folks on NASIOC really like their one-piece carbon fiber driveshafts, I would expect their level of quality to extend down to their aluminum and steel shafts as well.

There are quite a few folks on this board who are running Accel coils. I have an MSD on my turbo wagon and an Accel on my turbo coupe. The both seem to work just fine. Can't think of the part number, but if you search for it, you will find it.

You never said this was for a business! I think your best bet is going to be choosing the right supplier for the right situation. NAPA might work most of the time, but Autozone might be able to get the same part next-day. That said, again, if you just order blindly off RA you will have issues with fitment, etc. I was looking for parts for my EA81 and there was a timing belt that would "fit" my engine. I emailed them and told them about it, that is how improvements get made. Also, I have often had them send defective parts, or ones that were just plain wrong. I have never once had to return a part to them. They normally tell me to keep it and refund the entire cost, shipping and the cost of that part.

I might be able to convince the wife to attend this. We were already thinking of getting up there on Saturday to introduce the new pup to snow. No lifted ANYTHING in our fleet as of now, but we would probably take her Forester, which is practically lifted already compared to my WRX, do you expect there to be impassable sections this early in the year?

Beggars can't be choosers. I find that even with shipping from multiple locations, unless I'm buying parts for a common, modern (2000+) car, Rock Auto will beat everyone, including Amazon Prime, 8 out of 10 times.

Rock Auto.

Actually, I'm pretty sure that is a Turbo Coupe, not an actual RX. The VIN holds all the info.

The rear LSD in an SVX is installed in an R160 housing, the same R160 housing used on countless vintage Datsuns and Subarus. The LSD itself may fit your housing with some modification.

Put a fuel stabilizer in the gas tank, I like to put a hanging bag of desiccant salts in the car to absorb moisture and prevent mold, but I live in the soggy PNW. This would probably be a good place to start: Car Storage FAQ: Read if you're going to be storing your car for more than 30 days It may not all be applicable to your situation, but a lot of it will be.

First, what sort of car is it? We can't help you at all if you don't tell us what you're working with. You're going to have to use your common sense on the condition of the bearings. You can drive them until the wheels fall off, but you will potentially be doing damage to other components that will end up costing you more in the long run. Your best bet is to not drive until you can get the car fixed. Not to get all preachy or to put you down, but my biggest concern is that it sounds like you bought a car that you couldn't afford to buy outright and now can't afford to maintain it. A pre purchase inspection would have gone a long way towards A) making the car more affordable by pointing out the necessary repairs to the seller, and would have shown you the true condition of the vehicle, giving you the chance to decide if you really wanted to take on the repairs.

Ever get this problem figured out?

1. Fix what is worn out. 2. Improve your driving skills (Not a jab at you, but most of the improvements will come from behind the wheel) 3. Tires 4. Struts, anti-roll bars, etc.

Boosting a N/A Subaru generally makes the engine very unreliable. If you have your heart set on a turbo Subaru and want it to last a few 10s of thousands of miles, you should really be swapping in a factory turbo engine, or just buy a cheap, rusty WRX instead. Save yourself the time, money and heartache of building it yourself.

Who cares about photos of the blue one, show us more pictures of the GSR!!!

Don't go around telling folks to de-cat their cars. He did the right thing by deleting his muffler and using a cat as a muffler. Be a responsible steward of our global environment.

They should spin, that's what allows the front wheels to turn on a McPherson strut suspension. I can't picture it in my mind on an EA81, but on an Impreza, there is a cone washer that goes between the upper spring perch and the inner race of the top hat's bearing.

I'm sure someone, somewhere has used EA81T heads in a N/A application, but not a high enough number for it to be considered tried-and-true. I'm not sure if there are even different part numbers for the EA81T camshaft but if Subaru did it properly, the EA81T cam would not make for a very powerful N/A engine.