Numbchux

full-time doesn't have a 2WD setting. in a 5-speed, it has a lockable differential. un-locked, they're pretty mediocre. locked, they function identically to the PT4WD setup. the PT4WD trans has a lower lo-range (1.596:1 vs 1.196:1), AND a lower diff ratio (3.9 vs 3.7). so for offroading, the PT4WD is better. also, FT4WD D/Rs are quite rare (only in the RX), whereas PT4WD D/Rs are quite common. EDIT: oh yea...the chart: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84798 the only time I would recommend the FT4WD, is in something with a 2.2 swap. you'll have the torque to keep the tires spinning, so for 99% of what most people would be using them for, you won't need the extra gearing. and you'll have the extra traction for the street (FWD + EJ22 torque + EA82 suspension = wheelspin!)

that looks to me more like wear caused by toe-in. there really isn't an accurate way to tell without the right equipment, so ideally it should be taken to a shop. BUT, you can get it fairly close with a tape measure. measure the track width from the same place (be it on the rim, or an obvious point on the tread that is the same all the way around the tire). once on the front side of the tire, and once on the back. they should be fairly close. a hair (I shoot for ~1/4" on stockish sized tires. but it'll be more with larger tires) less on the front than the back.

I have not heard of anyone doing it. or even trying. but it has been discussed....and I don't think it would be terribly difficult. mounting an EA compressor to an EJ engine would be quite difficult. between bracket fabricating, and pulley issues, etc. so you'll want to run an EJ compressor. as far as anyone has found here (keeping in mind, I don't think anyone has actually tried), EA lines won't mount to the EJ compressor. you may be able to grab the engine bay lines from the EJ donor, and plug them into the EA expander, drier, etc. worst case scenario, custom lines of some sort. wiring won't be difficult. just a couple wires to the ECU controlling the compressor relay. then a recharge.

well, that will effectively move the strut top straight down. but by leaving the engine crossmember, your control arms are angled down more, which pulls the bottom of the knuckle in. in order to correct that, your strut blocks need more than 15 degree compensation. or, lengthen your control arms a bit (1/2" or so?)

wow! holy droop travel batman :banana:

I'm about 99% sure that the 2 existing holes will not line up with 2 of the ones on a 3-stud strut-top. as they're almost perfectly evenly spaced. but, I bet you could drill all 3 holes and be good to go. maybe weld a washer around it to reinforce it, but I think that'd be overkill. sorry I wasn't following this thread. I could've told you that no EJ caliper bracket would bolt to an XT6 knuckle. axles will be interesting. EJ on both ends, with EA81 length....or lengthen the EA81 control arms.....but then you might have camber "issues" (although negative camber in the front isn't really a bad thing).

^that's what jeeps are for I really want to see that going through the rock gorge up here at the ORV park.

flywheel has to match the transmission. AFAIK (and I wouldn't be the person to ask....) EA81 and EA82 flywheels aren't interchangeable.

mine's an '87. was a turbo, now just has an N/A 22RE in it. once the wagon sells, the 4runner will get 33s and a rear locker (engine should be rebuilt by then!). then some skidplates. and my revolver shackles (which have been sitting in the basement for like 3 years).

Beck/Arnley makes great stuff (frequently it actually is OEM!). I wouldn't worry about it if it worked out to be cheaper than OEM (easily could be as long as it's not shipping from a different warehouse than the other stuff). also, don't forget to grab the rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts!

awesome! I don't remember seeing a silver door and fender on that one..... I spent the day at the Crawl 4 the Cure yesterday. pissed that my 4runner is out of commission. BUT, there were a few other yotas there that were very inspiring. with amazing little modification (compared to all the "jeeps" with V8s, 1-ton axles, 10" of lift, links, coilovers, all just to fit 35" tires). yes, wagon has to get sold so the 4runner can get big

I'm not exactly sure what all was involved in importing it, as I didn't. another member here coordinated it all for a project of his, by the time the trans actually arrived, the project had been scrapped, so he re-sold it. too bad it'll have to wait another year or so before it actually gets installed in anything. but the wait should be worth it. if you're looking to do the same, you may want to ask the members who are from australia what the best way to get it done would be. maybe even join and ask over on Ausubaru.com

thirded.

they occasionally have a couple OEM things. 1st subaru is typically much slower. they have to order the parts into their store, and then they ship them out to you. whereas rockauto parts tend to be in the mail the same or next day. I trust Beck/Arnley parts just as much as OEM, so I usually order whatever is cheapest. so I've used both.

imported from Aus. AFAIK the first and possibly only one in North America.

I just picked up the 225678 seal (710439 will be a bit longer getting here...sometime next week). and it looks to be a perfect fit. exactly the right size for the ER knuckle, but the inner diameter looks identical to the EJ seal I have. unfortunately, I don't have a spare EJ axle to actually test fit it on, but it is the same size as the EJ seal, and it won't slip over the step on the ER axle.

I have not done it myself, but was thinking about it (until I got my hands on a genuine EJ D/R), so I was watching for any information I could find. AFAIK, the center diff housing bolt pattern is the same. although the casing itself is different. but that should mean you can bolt an EJ center diff casing (with an EJ center diff in it....) to an EA trans or vice versa.

fenders are flared out more. it's fairly common to swap sedan fenders/bumper onto a wagon for the flares. control arms are longer, and the tabs on the strut that bolt onto the knuckle are longer. rear lateral links and struts are different as well. sedan: wagon:

STis and WRX sedans have a wider track than wagons and older subies. 6MT axles are actually longer.

^they must have been for an Auto trans. only the 5-speed ones are 23. I found a pair in a junkyard here in MN a couple years ago. I didn't have a spare 23-spline trans, but they wouldn't go onto the stubs on my RX trans.

+1. nothing but moog ball joints and rod ends on my cars.

yep, only '93-'94 FWD 5MT 1.8l imprezas got the magic 23-spline axles. the axles are longer, but they won't push the hub out and "cause" camber. my loyale has XT6 control arms, and '92 legacy knuckles, struts and axles. no positive camber. although, it's also lowered a bunch, so the control arms are almost level, which really helps push the bottom of the knuckle out.

htautos did it:

yep, brake mount tabs are different. hubs, bearings, and outer bearing seals are the same, but the inner seal is different. so in order to mix and match an ER axle with an EJ hub, you'll need a different seal (I hope to actually buy one of those needed seals before long, and do some test-fitting and a write-up).

sorry, I work evenings, so I'm not usually available at normal human hours.....hopefully I can call you within the next couple days.