Numbchux

why is that weird? when we did it on my buddy's brat, we were going to just get 16 for the brat. but nobody locally had any in stock. One NAPA store poked around in their books though, and found one with the same dimensions (thread pitch/diameter, and base diameter) but longer than stock. so we used those, and got open-ended nuts. then carefully measured the base of the stud, and got a bit 1/64th smaller. we weren't looking for anything too precise, as we were planning on spot-welding the studs to the hub anyway....

yep, GD is correct. what you saw was a turbo header.....not applicable. BUT, any dual-port N/A subaru header will fit. and there are options. borla makes an unequal-length (and not just unequal, but tuned, primaries are exactly double the length on one side than the other) header. there are a couple companies that make knockoffs for much cheaper. I have one on my wagon with a '92 2.2 legacy motor. sound awesome! I think I might have gotten a slight bump in low-end torque, but definitely sacrificed some power on the top end. there are also a couple companies that make equal-length headers. MRT and OBX come to mind. these will yield genuine power gains, but at a sacrifice in sound (more high-pitched....kinda kills that wonderful subaru rumble).

+1

gearing, lockers, power, skidplates, axle gusset(s), full-floating rear hubs , steering, etc. if money were no object, I see many things I would do differently. But that really would be ridiculously expensive and time-consuming. I love it as-is, but you can bet there will be upgrades

Had another rally yesterday. in the Nemadji state forest again. 1st 2 events there went very well. Even took 3rd overall at the last one. But, some overconfidence, and a couple other mistakes meant that carl went into a corner way too hot, less than a mile into the first stage of the event, and rolled the car 3 times. you could see, clear as day, the indents where the tires hit each time. our Crew chief paced off the distance from the last tracks to where the car landed (the car was definitely not on the ground at the time....grass wasn't even pushed over), and it was about 30 feet :shock: Thankfully, the car is equipped with 10s of thousands of dollars worth of safety equipment (full FIA-legal cage, harnesses, HANS devices, helmets, etc. etc.), and they walked away with minimal injuries. both the driver and co-driver are a little sore, and the co-driver got a little scraped up by some shattered glass, but nothing even remotely severe!. At the time, we had 2 video cameras recording. one suction-cupped to the driver's door (we had a string tied from it to the door handle, just in case. you'll notice in the video when the suction cup fails and it starts flying around on the string). the other mounted to the roll cage, and plugged into the intercom. the sound on the external cam sucks, so turn down the volume until the footage from the other camera starts. most of the damage was cosmetic. will need lots of body panels. but the roll cage wasn't even touched, the pillars supported the weight entirely. frame rails are in-tact, suspension is straight. we got lucky! a good friend of ours, Mark Utecht, also rolled his mustang. similar problems. just came in too hot, little co-driver mistake, etc. and rolled. Mark was not as lucky, he landed upside-down, crushed the body of the car onto the cage, which left him trapped in the car. his car is not worth repairing. more pictures from the event http://mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33979

kinda like this. I was able to do this with an LSD and a hill (you can't really tell, but the slab is not level.....not really even close). ]

Qman, Turbone, and one other (who's name escapes me, ER27, divorced tcase in a brat, went off to the military some time ago, IIRC) all stripped out the transfer gears in theirs. I've also heard of someone with a FT4WD turbo wagon doing it....although again I can't remember who. of course. Archemetis here in MN drove his hatch with 30" tires and an ER27 (no divorced tcase, though) in RWD all the time. he would actually stop at the trail head to install/remove a front axle. and he was not gentle on it. I don't remember if he had a 4-speed or 5. so yea, the EA transfer gears don't hold up well to being run in RWD only. although, every case I can think of involved people being pretty hard on their rigs (and, most of them involved more-than-stock horsepower and/or big tires). I think if you drive it fairly normally, you'd be fine. but, then, what's the point? Of course, if you had a 5-speed in there, and you weren't concerned with making the front diff work. you could weld up an EJ center diff, and put the EJ center case/transfer gears on your EA82 5MT....which would be a drastic improvement (that's what I would do for a tcased rig...). yea, there would be a little potential for reducing weight. but not much. and you'd have to fabricate some sort of block-off plate for the front axle stubs. some machining to eliminate the 4WD engagement stuff.

full-time doesn't have a 2WD setting. in a 5-speed, it has a lockable differential. un-locked, they're pretty mediocre. locked, they function identically to the PT4WD setup. the PT4WD trans has a lower lo-range (1.596:1 vs 1.196:1), AND a lower diff ratio (3.9 vs 3.7). so for offroading, the PT4WD is better. also, FT4WD D/Rs are quite rare (only in the RX), whereas PT4WD D/Rs are quite common. EDIT: oh yea...the chart: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84798 the only time I would recommend the FT4WD, is in something with a 2.2 swap. you'll have the torque to keep the tires spinning, so for 99% of what most people would be using them for, you won't need the extra gearing. and you'll have the extra traction for the street (FWD + EJ22 torque + EA82 suspension = wheelspin!)

that looks to me more like wear caused by toe-in. there really isn't an accurate way to tell without the right equipment, so ideally it should be taken to a shop. BUT, you can get it fairly close with a tape measure. measure the track width from the same place (be it on the rim, or an obvious point on the tread that is the same all the way around the tire). once on the front side of the tire, and once on the back. they should be fairly close. a hair (I shoot for ~1/4" on stockish sized tires. but it'll be more with larger tires) less on the front than the back.

I have not heard of anyone doing it. or even trying. but it has been discussed....and I don't think it would be terribly difficult. mounting an EA compressor to an EJ engine would be quite difficult. between bracket fabricating, and pulley issues, etc. so you'll want to run an EJ compressor. as far as anyone has found here (keeping in mind, I don't think anyone has actually tried), EA lines won't mount to the EJ compressor. you may be able to grab the engine bay lines from the EJ donor, and plug them into the EA expander, drier, etc. worst case scenario, custom lines of some sort. wiring won't be difficult. just a couple wires to the ECU controlling the compressor relay. then a recharge.

well, that will effectively move the strut top straight down. but by leaving the engine crossmember, your control arms are angled down more, which pulls the bottom of the knuckle in. in order to correct that, your strut blocks need more than 15 degree compensation. or, lengthen your control arms a bit (1/2" or so?)

wow! holy droop travel batman :banana:

I'm about 99% sure that the 2 existing holes will not line up with 2 of the ones on a 3-stud strut-top. as they're almost perfectly evenly spaced. but, I bet you could drill all 3 holes and be good to go. maybe weld a washer around it to reinforce it, but I think that'd be overkill. sorry I wasn't following this thread. I could've told you that no EJ caliper bracket would bolt to an XT6 knuckle. axles will be interesting. EJ on both ends, with EA81 length....or lengthen the EA81 control arms.....but then you might have camber "issues" (although negative camber in the front isn't really a bad thing).

^that's what jeeps are for I really want to see that going through the rock gorge up here at the ORV park.

flywheel has to match the transmission. AFAIK (and I wouldn't be the person to ask....) EA81 and EA82 flywheels aren't interchangeable.

mine's an '87. was a turbo, now just has an N/A 22RE in it. once the wagon sells, the 4runner will get 33s and a rear locker (engine should be rebuilt by then!). then some skidplates. and my revolver shackles (which have been sitting in the basement for like 3 years).

Beck/Arnley makes great stuff (frequently it actually is OEM!). I wouldn't worry about it if it worked out to be cheaper than OEM (easily could be as long as it's not shipping from a different warehouse than the other stuff). also, don't forget to grab the rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts!

awesome! I don't remember seeing a silver door and fender on that one..... I spent the day at the Crawl 4 the Cure yesterday. pissed that my 4runner is out of commission. BUT, there were a few other yotas there that were very inspiring. with amazing little modification (compared to all the "jeeps" with V8s, 1-ton axles, 10" of lift, links, coilovers, all just to fit 35" tires). yes, wagon has to get sold so the 4runner can get big

I'm not exactly sure what all was involved in importing it, as I didn't. another member here coordinated it all for a project of his, by the time the trans actually arrived, the project had been scrapped, so he re-sold it. too bad it'll have to wait another year or so before it actually gets installed in anything. but the wait should be worth it. if you're looking to do the same, you may want to ask the members who are from australia what the best way to get it done would be. maybe even join and ask over on Ausubaru.com

thirded.

they occasionally have a couple OEM things. 1st subaru is typically much slower. they have to order the parts into their store, and then they ship them out to you. whereas rockauto parts tend to be in the mail the same or next day. I trust Beck/Arnley parts just as much as OEM, so I usually order whatever is cheapest. so I've used both.

imported from Aus. AFAIK the first and possibly only one in North America.

I just picked up the 225678 seal (710439 will be a bit longer getting here...sometime next week). and it looks to be a perfect fit. exactly the right size for the ER knuckle, but the inner diameter looks identical to the EJ seal I have. unfortunately, I don't have a spare EJ axle to actually test fit it on, but it is the same size as the EJ seal, and it won't slip over the step on the ER axle.

I have not done it myself, but was thinking about it (until I got my hands on a genuine EJ D/R), so I was watching for any information I could find. AFAIK, the center diff housing bolt pattern is the same. although the casing itself is different. but that should mean you can bolt an EJ center diff casing (with an EJ center diff in it....) to an EA trans or vice versa.

fenders are flared out more. it's fairly common to swap sedan fenders/bumper onto a wagon for the flares. control arms are longer, and the tabs on the strut that bolt onto the knuckle are longer. rear lateral links and struts are different as well. sedan: wagon: