Numbchux

it's no frame, but it's probably one of the strongest stock parts on the front of the car (an aftermarket bumper would be better....but not the stocker). sweet pics!! glad to see it kickin it off road! what wheels are those? Equal length header?

^Thanks. yea, I've tried to answer most of those questions on the site. for most of what you guys would be looking at (EJ into an EA car). it's $250. and that's for anything 2001 and older. OBD II harnesses don't scare me (they can even be a bit easier to initially separate....), and they only extra requirement to make one run completely is a vehicle speed sensor. but even that can be simulated with a little unit from EngineWiring.com All I need to know, is years, transmissions, ABS, Airbags, A/C about all 3 cars. That is, the car the engine came out of, the car the engine is going into, and the car after the swap is done (i.e. your loyale had A/C, but you're not going to make it work after the swap. or your legacy had ABS, but it'll be removed with the SVX swap).

UPullRParts does a UPull-a-thon every spring. everything you can carry 20 ft for $40. we've gotten a bunch of stuff there...but never a trans. the yard up here in Duluth that still inventories all their individual parts, and charges depending what it is, wants $150 for a D/R 5MT. and has about 8 at any given time. they've even got 2 tlegs, 3 svxs, many newer outbacks and such, and even an '05 FXT

also, the legacy "touring wagon" as it's called, is not raised roof. just a turbo wagon. only the first gen GT is raised roof. and not [necessarily?] turbo. my dad has a '94 LGT with the raised roof.

yep, only 5MT FWD 1.8l '93-'94 imprezas have 23 spline axles. auto trans, legacy, AWD, all have 25s. also, as discussed in gary's thread in the offroad section, while the outer end of the axle/hub will interchange with EJ/ER stuff. the inner wheel bearing seal is different. I found some seal part numbers that THEORETICALLY should work....

I have no idea. I didn't think so. but old subarus are pretty rare out here.....I still have yet to see an RX in person

So I finally got around to sending a message to Noah and Shawn. While they both do it occasionally.....not terribly actively. So.....I thought I'd throw my name in the hat. preferred contact method is through the email form on my website. that way it goes to my main email address, and get's tagged that it's about Numbchuxconversions. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com I've done a dozen or so early EJ22 harnesses for EA subarus. a couple for VWs, a few for VW-based buggies. I can also do full merges. I did the Grimmspeed track car, which is a '96 impreza with an '05 WRX motor/trans/dash (climate control and 200+awhp in a GC impreza!!): 5 SVX swaps. last month we did my buddy's '95 impreza LX, which got 2002 WRX ECU, wiring, and heads, with a built EJ22t shortblock and the stock dash (pictures to come when his pistons arrive and it can actually be assembled....).

all RSs were turbo. and, AFAIK, they were the only loyales that were. there is one here in Duluth that I've seen a few times, but it's pretty much rotted away to nothing.

I haven't posted it there as I didn't want to step on Shawn or Noah's toes. I don't know if they're still doing it though.....I'll send them a pm and see.

http://www.numbchuxconversions.com

possibly some seafoam.....or pb blaster

was just looking at it again. and I think it's only a bit lower than my wagon was a couple years ago.

oh yea, it totally depends on the conditions. on the rocks up here....you have to have some momentum to get over the top (because you won't have any traction), so you bend stuff. I don't know, it's hard to say what it'll mean in your situation. regardless, the only thing I would change is I'd throw a gusset on the lower side of it to make sure it maintain's that angle.... although, I forgot about the gearing. that'll definitely help a ton.

I never bent one on the street hard to tell from the pictures. and will totally depend on how you use the rig....but I'm pretty sure one day out on the trails up here with me driving, and that thing would be folded back on itself

^forgot to take some closeups. I'll try to remember when I have the intake mani off. This was a pretty mild porting job, mostly just a casting cleanup. but they did sharpen up the splitters on the intake sides nicely. well. I bolted them to the motor. and then put an intake manifold on it..... and then I found some other random junk around the basement (wound up with a box and the center case section from a legacy trans...) to hold the SC and IC where they would wind up to plan my intake tract. Yea, when the new shell arrives, it probably won't be long before it's boosting!

^my thoughts exactly.....pre-bent might just lead to more bending. still pretty sweet. I'm definitely quite anxious to see this one finished!

even with no gas cap, it pushes fuel out the vent line? here's the post that led me to try running with the gas cap loose: I got lucky. after a couple tanks of gas, it seemed to solve itself. but Dhise mentions cleaning out the separator.....that might be your next step.

this attitude is why I stopped trying to help. you were told to remove the strut from the knuckle, and you ignored it. now you have more problems, and are blaming everyone else. the toe is because the control arm is not bolted to the crossmember.

huh...found my book. 1985-92. but part number 8259.... almost all of section 6 is wiring diagrams, and they're identical to FSM ones. about 200 pages. although, I just flipped through it, and the only EA82 ones are 1990-92 loyale and XTs, still nothing with a D/R

you'll need: tranny starter adapter plate -> http://www.sjrlift.com rear diff (your forester probably has a 4.111, a D/R would need a 3.90) flywheel clutch kit linkage driveshaft (forester one will work, but will need to be modified for length). and some custom work for a crossmember. all the used parts would probably cost about 2-300 at the local junkyard here in Duluth, could be a lot more depending on the source. the adapter plate is a couple hundred (I'm having problems with SJRs site right now. looks like it's been redesigned since the last time I was on there. you could always pm him here, his id is "Scott in Bellingham"). you'll want a high-quality clutch kit to hold the power. I HIGHLY suggest the Beck/Arnley kit for an XT6. I got mine from RockAuto.com for a bit under 200. and then labor. if you pay someone else to do it.....yikes. you'll also run into an issue with the clutch. as your forester will have a hydraulic clutch, and the D/Rs have a cable clutch. I suspect the best way would be to get a clutch/brake pedal assembly from a 2.2l legacy or impreza with a cable clutch. then you might be able to sell off the old parts (trans. hydro clutch assembly). if you do the work yourself, you could probably come out only about $500 down. but you could easily spend a grand. and if you're paying someone else for the whole project.....could be more like 2.

way too low for any performance. the alignment goes all out of whack at that point, etc. for looks though. it's fine. people have been doing stuff like that to rabbits and such for years. simply dropping it that low to sit in the driveway is easy. many "dumped" projects involve tons of fabbing and calculating to maintain some travel and decent suspension geometry. I'm not a big fan of poorly-done slammed cars (no offense....but seriously, it is pretty basic), but if someone were to go to the trouble of cutting up mounting brackets and moving pivot points up a few inches, and extending the strut towers, maybe lengthen the rear control arms to maintain camber/toe at those angles, move the shock mounts up, etc. example (too bad many of the picture links are dead. but you get the idea.....) http://www.the152.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=2419&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I have searched. and re-hosted everything I've been able to find on my site. http://numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm and, wiring section for an '88 XT (doesn't help you for the D/R stuff...) I did my EJ22 swap out of a 1985-1992 Chilton's manual. they're direct copies of FSM diagrams....

buy a Chilton's manual. they've got FSM wiring diagrams for numerous models. or.....if I ever get around to it, I might scan mine and .pdf it

also, I suspect you'll have to take the whole strut out (separate it from the knuckle) in order to get the block up there.

our Rally car is an '04 STi. the ABS stuff is all disabled (all hardlines replumbed, none going near the pump. but the pump and wiring is still there). We had a wheel sensor fail at Gravity Park this year, and were unable to get it to work without the sensor (or ABS pump/computer). we tried a few different things, and the only thing that helped was a new sensor. worse part was, when it had the wheel sensor error, it would go to full-lock......not good. We came to the conclusion that the sensors were too vulnerable, which is why a GEMs controller was "obtained" (Thank goodness GEM is one of our sponsors ). since that installation, our driver has said he regrets not doing it sooner, as it has drastically improved the way the car handles. most notably under hard braking, the stock controller is programmed to release the center diff while braking hard to let the ABS pump control traction. but in any performance situation, you want that center diff to tighten up..... the DCCDpro controllers are suprising cheap, considering.....well worth the money IMHO.