el_freddo

Gear Selector shaft seal: 806718040 or 806718100 <- same number up to 2003 (and possibly longer). These two will probably be the hard ones to find - 4wd lever seals: Rear plate seal: 33194AA000 or 33194AA001 leading (front) side transfer case 4wd lever arm to low range selector arm: 33193AA000 Tailshaft output seal: 806735070 or 806735210 <- same number up to 2003 and possibly longer. I hope that helps. Cheers Bennie

Doing well. On his second caravan build now. First one went around Oz behind his i30 no worries, then he decided he wanted one with a tad bit more room so went and built it! Cheers Bennie

I see one sensor on the lower end of the car in the pic - so where is the SECOND sensor that they’re trying to find? I too can only see a bung for a second sensor. I’m not 100% sure that it’s got a second O2 sensor, but I’m not overly familiar with the forester. Cheers Bennie

That was a fun ride that one! The first time I rode it after the rebuilt engine went in with the 38/38 I took off with the front wheel in the air. It was crazy good power for a little 1.8L with a slush box in front of it! I think drivability was good but the fuel usage went through the roof. It was sold on due to health issues and being exposed to the elements all the time was getting a bit much. It’s the only trike I know of with a roof - very well done and it looked neat! Met us out bush for some lunch. Here’s Tweety with Ruby Scoo and the H6 dual range foz “Dulagal”: I think this was the first time I met Tweety - in Sunnie the Brumby: I think this was pre-experimenting with SPFI and supercharger: ^ same, same but different! I reckon the EA81S with the twins would’ve been the ultimate - and looked the part visually too. Cheers Bennie

My L can make noises sometimes. But I never open the cap when it does this and it never shoots fuel at me. No running issues for me, any running issues for you? If not, don’t worry about it - and keep the cap on! Cheers Bennie

I have my fans setup with that three way switch method that you mentioned. Works a treat! PS pump bolt - cut the dome off to gain more clearance. It’s hollow and only there for show. To pull the EJ22 from my L series, I pull the fans out first, then the radiator then the engine. I’m running the N13 pulsar radiator. Not ideal but it certainly does the job. The BRZ radiator seems to be a better fit - if you fit a filler neck to it. Cheers Bennie

Hey Steptoe, i cant find discussions of the twins on the EA82, but subius (I think it was) had the twins mentioned in his signature on his L series in tassie. And I’m sure Fang had a set on his L series too. But I can’t find those references. Lots of EA81 twin carb talk though. Easy to search using google: “twin site:www.ausubaru.com.au” Cheers Bennie

If the 95 is running well, just use that if it’s awd. Cheers Bennie

Well to be clear/clear this up: my first post here was trying to say that those who found the elusive twins were putting them on the EA82 back in the hay day of ausubaru. I failed to say they were specifically putting them on the EA82. Then you said that you didn’t recall anyone doing this but do recall EA82 intake and single carb on EA81. Now I was asking which model the EA82 twins came from... or what aftermarket product were they using?? I hope that helps. Plus in these situations “EJ” is always the answer Cheers Bennie

The sealant I used was Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket Sealant Liquid #80019. Google that for the exact product etc. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... you might be right on that one. But then what model did the EA82 twins come from? Cheers Bennie

I’ve used a T piece for oil pressure gauge and idiot oil warning light switch under the alternator. I’d rather this setup and have easy visual access to inspect for leaks and easy access to fix. Using other ports will add another leak point anyway, and some of those option can’t easily be seen or accessed. You can also use some sealant on the joints. The stuff is aviation grade. I’ll have to look it up - it’s a brown goo and you don’t need much of it on each joint! Cheers Bennie

I’ve got a Nissan Pulsar N13 radiator in my L series. Some mods needed, upper rad support panel needs to be rolled up a little and some rad rail mods done. Very successful conversion for my setup. Dual core copper with plastic end tanks. Goes well with the EJ22 and a decent air dam behind the radiator to create a low pressure zone behind the rad. Keeps the ‘22 nicely cool even off-road. Cheers Bennie

I was talking EA82 but didn’t specify, sorry! Cheers Bennie

Some places work off oem part numbers. It’s a long shot but I reckon it’s worth having a crack at. Cheers Bennie

Yes it was a common conversion in ausubaru for those that got their hands on the elusive twins. You getting that old now Steptoe? Cheers Bennie

Yeah I wasn’t sure about the turbo models, that’s good to know. Got a part number to share? The 4wd wagons came with single row radiator. Cheers Bennie

I did the same as Steptoe but instead of drilling a bigger hole in the rad support panel, I modified the clip to fit the hole. I too now have a yellow holder for the bonnet support rod. Cheers Bennie

Get an aftermarket gauge that actually indicates a temperature figure, then you’ll see it move up and down. Factory temp gauges are built to stay steady within certain parameters to keep the consumer happy. Once that needle heads north it’s already too late!! The NA Loyales came out with a single core radiator. I’m not sure of what models came with dual core. Even here in Oz they all had single core for NA from factory. If your AC gets warm at the lights it needs a service - or the fans looked at to ensure proper air flow when stationary. Cheers Bennie

You want to keep the thing easy to maintain! Stock is the best way to do this. I wouldn’t be going to reinvent the wheel on this one for the sake of a comfortable ride. Cheers Bennie

Any chance that they “just plugged in”?? Cheers Bennie

And the EA82 oil pumps? How do you guys burn through those too? I’ve got a few of those kicking around that I’ll never use... all from good working engines. Cheers Bennie

Not done it but I like the look of the indicator in the side mirror housing. I’d like to replicate that on my earlier model Subys. Cheers Bennie

Been busy mate! Nice effort. Going to be a track car? Cheers Bennie

I’d clean it up and reuse it. Not a critical part. It’s job is to align the engine and gearbox with more precision than the mounting bolts. Being slightly smaller won’t matter. Cheers Bennie