el_freddo

I run without the trim pieces on my L. Works a treat, I don’t miss the trim pieces but I still have them. Cheers Bennie

Also if the belts were done, or you did them, verify that when the crank mark is aligned that one can is at 12 o’clock and the other is a 6 o’clock. It doesn’t matter which is which, it just matter that both cams are 180* apart. And as Dave said for the fuel pump issue. In Australia our test connectors (green and black) are located above the driver’s feet behind the kick panel. Cheers Bennie

No, he’s saying that with the intake in place the bolts seem to bottom out before any torque is applied to clamp the intake manifold to the head. Cheers Bennie

Welcome @Blooroo86xtGL! Use the search function. The XT6 is where to get all the parts from. But they’re super rare now from what I understand. Cheers Bennie

What hose lines are you replacing? 12 feet of fuel hose sounds VERY excessive unless I’m missing something there. That’s enough fuel hose to go front to back with plenty to spare after ONE hose. Cheers Bennie

Hey chopper, As Ido said, you’re attempting to put hydraulic valve lash adjustment camshafts into a roller rocker camshaft actuation setup. EJ22 heads will interchange and bolt up. It’s the differences in exhaust ports and EGR setup that catches you guys out. We have dual port on all EJ engines in Oz. Have you looked at a delta cam grind? You could probably use the ‘95 cams as the core exchange if they operate that way. Cheers Bennie

The oil pump housings are brittle and I reckon most sales of new pumps were for replacement of broken ones during a seal replacement job. Cheers Bennie

Anything is possible. If you’re going to go that way, I’d look into a remote mounted electric oil pump setup. Cheers Bennie

I’ve done a roadside EFI pump swap once or twice before... It’s not hard unless you’re trying not to get dirty (or smelly from the fuel). I usually have a spare in the back since I off-road in some quite remote places - if you had to walk it could be a good day or two before you made it to a decent unsealed road, and sand saps energy big time! So it’s “cheaper” to carry spare parts like this, it’s paid off once. Cheers Bennie

Install a quality aftermarket oil pressure gauge if you want an accurate reading. I’ve had one on my EJ22’d L series and I can tell when my oil is low or the engine is hot from the change in oil pressure. Mine’s mechanical, you can get electrical if you want too. Cheers Bennie

Through the rear side window rubber or trim piece under the window. It’ll most likely be the lower front corner that’s the culprit if it’s the window rubber leaking. The leak will drop into the wall cavity, above the rear wheel, then flow down into that rear well area. Leave this issue and you’ll end up with rust coming through from the inside to outside. Cheers Bennie

Steptoe is talking about the intake manifold bolt holes, not the ones on the head Cheers Bennie

An alternative is to shave the bolts 3-4mm shorter. Cheers Bennie

It seems there’s an issue with the thread at the bottom of the hole, or some debris down there stopping you from getting the bolt all the way in. You might need a thread chaser with a straight edge on the leading face to get to the bottom of the threads in each hole. A tapered end won’t do the job. Have you sat the intake manifold on with the gasket in place and checked to see if the bolts can be torqued with contact on the intake manifold? When you fit the manifold, don’t forget that pesky little coolant hose from the top of the block. It’s a PITA to get to with the manifold on, but not impossible. Cheers Bennie

Have a read of this thread. You should get some ideas in here Cheers Bennie

You just need a hand file or a dremel. As for the adaptor plate various ppl sell them around the traps. The bolt holes of the EA82 flywheel needs to be elongated to fit to the EJ crank... Cheers Bennie

Been done many times. Engine mount holes need to be extended outwards. I can’t remember how far - it’s the same for any EJ conversion. Cheers Bennie

I hope you get that pump/battery issue sorted now. I bet you were driving around like before you got stuck in the car park! Cheers Bennie

If there’s no fuel at the hose work backwards from there. Firstly, got fuel in the tank? Any fuel at the pump? Did you place all fuel lines back in their correct order? Cheers Bennie

*orders four sets of lock nuts* Tailgate trim is being kept safe as it’s in good condition. The trim pieces that hold it on we’re failing so I took it off before it fell off or someone did it for me. Someone got a good deal on that wagon! Cheers Bennie

That double roll pin arrangement on the selector shaft - ALWAYS remove the inner pin before attempting the outer pin! Ive seen this setup on just about all Subaru gearboxes, except the real old EA81 4spd boxes. They’ve usually dropped out or been replaced with a bolt Cheers Bennie

Very nice! There’s one really close too: Cheers Bennie

Whoa! That interior should come with a warning!! Best of luck on the sale. Cheers Bennie

Those km could be genuine. I’ve seen these owned by old grandpas that typically garage them and only drive them to church/into town once a week. Would be a steal at that price. Innes motors here in Bendigo had one traded, 288,000km from memory, late model in white - looks like it came off the show room floor and it’s a survivor vehicle. Dunno how they kept the interior look g like pics from a catalogue! It’s on display in their showroom Cheers Bennie

What order do you have the firing order in - and do you have no1 starting at the correct position on the dizzy? Cheers Bennie