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1) these EA GL gauges aren't very accurate and 2) my 87 GL reads same high when cold pressures, 65-70 on startup Pressure drops to 45 in cruise and stays about 40 psi at 3-3.5K rpm full hot after 2 hrs hwy running. Yours readings seem to be just fine to me.

What bronze alloy did you use for those synchros, 932(SAE660) alloy? Did you do those in a CNC machine center or lathe?

After putting insulation & drywall up first. And an overhead space heater or two.....

I like them fine. Wasn't enough room at one lamp socket because of rolling door bracket but 3 lamps are just fine. Before with std LED bulbs. Yeah, cellphone didn't focus well. Vapor from my breath in sub-freezing air confuses camera autofocus After, notice shadows are sharper. Will be hanging 4ft LED lights over work areas too - when I get my benches, machinery, welders & rollaways in place.

Mount CV by axle stub in soft jaws in a bench vise with cup upward. Gently pivot on two opposite balls by tapping on opposite edge of cage with hammer & brass or aluminum drift until you can pop out balls with small screwdriver. Then back other way to get other two. Lastly, rock out cage with last two balls by twisting & pulling. Clean thoroughly & reassemble same way after lubing lightly with fresh grease. Or squeeze remainder of grease packet thru center hole of inner race after assembling joint. Take note of scratches in inner & outer races. If balls appear scratched & grayish it may be too late to save the joint. Find another.

Did you get just the banding tool or a kit including bands? Bands only on fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-AXLE-HALF-SHAFT-BOOT-BAND-IT-STYLE-BANDING-CLAMPS-Kit-/132892170666?hash=item1ef0fd99aa https://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-AXLE-HALF-SHAFT-BOOT-BAND-IT-STYLE-BANDING-CLAMPS-/261979950896?hash=item3cff38cf30

Looked at RA but not listed. Brake caliper O/H kits are listed w/such mfrs as Raybestos, EIS, Bendix & Carlson. Ford Courier, Mazda B1800 & B2000, Subaru DL use same caliper kits as 1982 Brat. Might be a cross-over PN in there somewhere. Carlson comes up NLA for guide pin kits. Happy hunting!

Could be the stakes holding the ign sw insulator together have come undone. IF your 82 switch is built similarly then it could be an easy fix. Daub a little JB weld in 3 places around the outside when you get done re-staking the shell on so it doesn't happen again. Had the same thing happen to me in my 87 GL. Shoot some contact cleaner in the switch too. See here: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/167527-no-power-to-the-ignition/

More reading with coil & wire diameters, lengths, etc https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160035-ea81-strut-springs-difinitive-answer/

IIRC Nissan Sentra about 88 yr are close to right OD & relaxed 14 inch length to give a boost in ride height too. Although one more coil will limit travel a little. Those cc222 & 225 springs are all wrong - I mis-remembered.

Sandpoint ain't that far from Troy MT. You might read here too: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119031-suspension-questions/ Can't remember what the latest Moog spring I tried was but I think it was either a CC222 or CC225. I'll have to search some for that info.

From bottom edge of top hat to bottom edge of strut spring perch is 7 inches on my 87 GL. These are Monroe 4WD EA82 struts. Springs are Moog and I don't recall the part number. Here's the list in pdf. moog-spring.pdf

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150805-ea82-front-struts-fit-ea81/ I have a L & R pair of good used KYB FWD ea82 struts complete with springs & mounts you can have for price of shipping. I cut the brake line tab to make removal easier - just bend it back. PM your address & I would prefer PayPal if you have an account. (Lower 48 US states only - in case someone here asks.)

Yeah, higher the lumens the higher the price too. "Diamond plate" shop lights of advertised 10k lumen 4 footers: https://www.ruralking.com/4-led-shop-light-10-000l-chrome?utm_medium=email&utm_source=2018-10-07+Whats+Hot&utm_campaign=27100044&utm_contnet=27100044&_bta_tid=32259870115476410414092769077956769598026446718742119450761235058598424239696786977331067106111512431209 And advertised 4500 lumen 4 footers: https://www.ruralking.com/4-led-shop-light-4500-lumens?utm_medium=email&utm_source=2018-10-07+Whats+Hot&utm_campaign=27100023&utm_contnet=27100023&_bta_tid=00379131375476410414092769077956769598026446718742119450761235058598424239697096462340888451180237212265 I'm betting I'll still need drop lights for under carriage work with these aging eyes. Ha ha!

Some comparative figures for you https://greatercea.org/lightbulb-efficiency-comparison-chart/

It'll be a couple weeks before I can try them out. I'll try to get before & after pics - if I still remember to.

Needed some better lighting for my new garage. As it yet only has 4 overhead screw-in lamps, opted to upgrade to these: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200679033_200679033?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-RECEIVED-_-707-_-CONF

Drum brakes should always be adjusted first before bleeding, as I surmise you just found out. Adjust & try again Dee. Tighten until they're locked up then back off until they drag lightly. By the time you get done here you'll qualify for your NIASE patch on your service jacket....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXW2EM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 While you may not be seeing air when you get back to each wheel, air could be rising up the bleeder hose & remain trapped in caliper/whl cyl on last up stroke of brake pedal.

You did use a check valve type brake bleeder at the wheels, right? Try bleeding the MC this way then..with all MC lines tight but no too tight, crack one front line loose at the MC then allow it to gravity bleed until fluid is dripping. Then tighten that line. Go to one rear line, crack it loose at the MC & allow it to gravity bleed until it is dripping. Tighten all MC lines. Now go to each wheel in criss-cross pattern & bleed them. Do all your bleeding with the engine off - no booster so you can get a solid feeling pedal first. You must have a solid pedal with no vacuum boost first or its pointless. Other things to check: Pull down your lower kick panels & check out the clevis pin in brake pedal lever & the brake rod. Look for loose/worn parts. While you've got the dash panel down check out firewall to see if fluid had leaked down inside the cabin.

Worked for me. Used the free download with sign in. No problem. Some pics of your left thumb too And thank you for doing this.

Looks to be a common problem on those CRXs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/88-91-HONDA-CRX-Si-Driver-Left-Rear-Interior-Trim-Side-Panel-sms/132781334941?hash=item1eea62619d:g:pbIAAOSwDYBbnCcH $125! Ouch!

Might be able to reinforce the backside with some 1/4" or finer mesh screen then apply your bonding epoxy. Use some clips to hold everything in place then bond it. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538053852&sr=8-3&keywords=jb+weld+for+plastic

Not no, just undecided if........ How else are you gonna share this? Google drive? Dropbox? Etc? Dropbox free acct has a 2 GB limit.

This term, CVT, had me scratching my head so I searched: Now that I've seen it I can't help but think of old machinery vari-speed drives married with silent chain instead of a wide rubber v-belt. Twisting & bending torque on that CVT belt must mean its a wear service item along with those pulleys. Vari-speed has been around for decades. How do I know of variable speed drives - production metal turning & milling machines. http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/variable-speed-drives.aspx You'd think they could've put that internal filter element in a more convenient spot........