Turbone

Never heard of one of those going bad. This year has a hot wire MAF and they can get dirty/oily. Buy a can of MAF cleaner at one of the chain stores, remove the MAF from the filter housing and hose down the tube where the wires are.

Looks like it belongs in a nice kitchen :-p

Lets try and be consistent here. Thats alot of miles, even for a Subaru. If well taken care of, they can reach 300k and beyond. Get that cooling system straightened out ASAP, or it will never see 300k. I would look into a new radiator, waterpump, thermostat(OEM) and some new hoses. The fan speed problem is probably due to the resistor under the motor, theres a write up on it I believe. Or try a search with heater resistor. Theres also a large amount of members in the Snoho area here on the board. Oh yeah, the timing belts should have been changed at 240k. If your not sure about it, install new ones. It wont break the engine if they go, but its pretty darn inconvenient.

Sounds like you may have to pull the downpipe loose from the turbo.

Try looking under the hood between the strut top and windshield wiper motor. Green and black connectors. Theres a write up in the USRM on resetting/reading the codes. You can also unhook the battery for 15min.

2 manifold bolts per head and the bolts/nuts holding it to the bottom of the turbo. Do you still have the heat shield attached?

What about the brake fluid? Did you flush it and install new stuff? Heres a good write up on disc brakes and info on breaking them in. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

It might be caught up on the oil return line on the back of the head. Last time I was installing mine I pulled the line off and didnt know it......what a mess :-\

She got the last OEM pair in the USA. The Subaru Star decal can be made by McBrat.

Here's Connie's new side badge. Here's a old original. Here's one with a decal over the original faded center...

After further research I see I was wrong and the others are correct. The VLSD are a sealed unit. This is a longish read, but very informative. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1442522 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15812529

Theres a few different brands out there that have LSD rear diff fluid. The dealer should have this fluid also. Motul 90PA Redline And some others.

Need to convert the front hubs to EA82. Or have special axles made up. I'm working on getting EA82 hubs on a EA81, but its going to be a while.

Also forgot about the axles. The RX axles are 25 spline. Brat axles are 23.

I 2nd the bad neutral safety switch.

Its ok to throw my name out there We finally agree on something

Surprised I never posted mine here Aircraft running lights for the front, set up on 2 switches to alternate. And the rears are some halogens and are plenty bright.

Well first of all, its a full time tranny. Second, the diff lock makes the power ratio to front and rear 50/50. It will also cause serious binding if you use it on dry pavement(the diff lock).

I've seen some pretty tight fits before, just make sure the pins are lubed so the caliper halves can move freely.

Those arent the only reasons they are weak. The valves in the tranny are to weak for the weight of the car. Which makes it overheat, which shortens the life. But I have heard that a cooler doesnt help much in colder climates, its actually detrimental as the fluid doesnt warm up enough to work right. Contact NikFu S. over at the SVX board and ask him some questions, he lives in AK also. I may have a pass side marker.

Take a can of brake/carb cleaner and start spaying around the vac hoses. Listen for a change in idle and that should be your leak, if its a vac leak problem. As for the dull sound when letting of the gas, I would think thats a engine or tranny mount issue. Also make sure the pitch stopper is connected.

You're just getting scared cause you know its gonna smoke your rump roast when its done

Thanks, I love it too. When its running Oh, and I have some stuff upcoming. Still gathering parts/goodies

It broked! See the shiny spring on the bottom? Look at the metal that surrounds it, its missing a piece on the outer edge. Whenever I pushed the clutch in, the spring would push out and it the flywheel. It made it real hard to get into gear too.

BAH! If its not one thing, its another Stupid manf defect :mad: