Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'JesZeK'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Occupation


Ezboard Name


Referral


Biography


Vehicles

Found 41 results

  1. So, Subaru is doing a Limited Edition of the Subaru BRZ, in my kind of Yellow Colour, the "Sunrise Yellow" Have you seen it? Here's your newest Wallpaper! ... ...
  2. Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
  3. Subaru Gives A List Of Names For Its Tribeca Replacement: ~► http://www.subienews.com/2015/06/whats-in-a-name-subaru-give-a-list-of-names-for-its-tribeca-replacement-we-pick-a-winner/ Somehow I'm one of those persons that like to see Cars' Names that continue Living, despite that the model Changes a Lot with ages; Names such like Corolla, Mustang, Skyline, etc... has been for decades among us, Subaru used to have a "Legendary" name with the Leone and it was a shame that they Discontinued its Use; now seems that the same will happen with the Tribeca, according to the information given on the link above... What do you think about that? ... Kind Regards.
  4. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Easy Fuel injector cleansing procedures

    Fuel injector cleansing procedure I use: Remove the Fuel injectors. Spray carburetor cleaner Upside down on them, to clean their inlet strainer. Plug a 1.5 feet long Hose, tight on their inlet. Secure it in place with a Clamp. Plug a couple of long wires to their power input, to connect them to the Car's Battery. Hold vertically the Hose, hanging the Fuel injector. Fill up the Hose with enough Carburetor Cleaner. Ask the Help of someone to Connect the Wires to the Battery, intermitently. (1 second intervals) Blow the crap out of the injector, by bursting high pressurized air to the Hose. When the Cleansing fluid is gone, fill up the Hose again... Repeat this procedure until the injector is Completely Clean! WARNING! The 12 Volts power should be Connected / Disconnected on one second intervals, otherwise the pressure buildup on the Hose, could cause it to Blow, spraying dangerous solvents and dirt all around. Be Careful! Important Notes: ► I forgot to shoot a photo while the cleansing process was ongoing, so since I already re-placed back the battery on the car, I did the last shot for the photo, there, and then I Cleansed the Battery properly; do Not do this Fuel injector cleansing procedures nearby the battery to avoid a spark that might start a fire with the chemical solvents; also Never forget to wear safety goggles during this procedure, please Take Care. ► You have to be Creative to Hook the Hose Properly on certain Fuel injectors, such like the Older style Subaru ones. ► I highly recommend to obtain brand new o-rings for the injectors, to be placed after the cleaning procedure has finished. ► The ideal carburetor cleaner usage, is around 4 to 5 oz of the can to each injector, or a whole 16 to 20 oz can of good quality, concentrated Carb Cleaner, distributed among four injectors. ► You'll need to fill up the Hose and blow with air several times 'till the injector sprays with a clean, defined pattern as it should. ► An average air compressor, has a common working pressure of 90 psi, while an average Car's fuel pump delivers much less psi. The mixture of that higher pressure with the amount of concentrated chemical solvent used, gives as result an incredibly clean fuel injectors, beyond any fuel additive could do. Disclaimer: Use all the information & Photos I share, at your own Risk! If you find this information & photos, Useful, Let me know by hitting the "Like" Button Kind Regards.
  5. My beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" has been with me since New, from june 1985; I changed the Lug pattern on it since year 1996, from 4X140 to 4X114.3 to gain easy access to a more variety of Rims; I posted photos and more information regarding that, ~► Here. I choosed originally fifteen inches Rims, as they're easier to find Tires in many sizes, brands and styles; and their price is not high, so, I choosed this ones, which were Five Spokes 15" X 7" wheels, and 25" all-terrain tires: But after that, I never Liked too much their looks, because they were somehow "Too Much Bling-Bling" for my style and the offset wasn't perfect, they came a little to the outside ... Some months after I obtained them, I had financial problems, so I sold them, and obtained as Gift, the old ones from the Buyer's car, which are also 15" but beated steelies + half worn tires, out from a Hyundai Elantra, see: I decided to run my "BumbleBeast" like that for a while, because I planned to reunite enough money for a New set of 15" Rims with five spokes but all Black finish ... But suddenly I lost my Job, after fourteen years being there, due to political reasons, and I'm Not a political person... (Photo taken my last day at my ex-job's parking lot) So I had to stay with those ugly steelies for around a year so far ... But my Spare wheel is a 15" rim that came from a '93 Nissan 240SX, it is a lightweight aluminium, seven spoke Rim: These has the very Perfect offset (40) for the Subaru, and are somehow "age correct" for my "BumbleBeast" So, lately I've been Thinking about obtaining a Complete set of four Used rims from a 240SX, as I already have tested the one I have, and somehow its look grown on me... also used Rims are Cheap to obtain here, in Honduras, and I'm in "Low Budget Mode" If I obtain a set of four of those, I plan to: ► clean them, ► polish them, ► paint them, with Black powdercoat, so, let me Know what do you Think about that idea. Kind Regards.
  6. So, since I lost my Job after Fourteen Years, due to political reasons, (and I am Not a political person), I've been helping more people to Fix their Cars' problems, not only old-school Subarus, and as the Newer models has OBD / OBD II systems, I am really in Need to obtain a Good Scan Tool for these cars, because I don't want to bother a friend who has one, each time I need to use it. So, which one is considered as the "Best Option" balanced between price and usefulness? Somehow I am some sort of "Newbie" with this scan tools ... ... so please share with me your Knowledge, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Kind Regards.
  7. Automatic Transmissions' With shared or independent Differential Lubrication. Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups: ► First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually "Thins" the ATF (getting Lower Viscosity) and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and many more. ► Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense (Getting Higher Viscosity), and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and many more. Why is this very important? Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period. However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant. So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those detergent ATF additives for short term use only, in example to do a chemical cleansing of the internals prior to do a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF. ► Important Note: Not all the ATF in the market, has the same additive package nor are suitable for all the automatic transmissions; in fact, if you use the Wrong ATF, the Transmission might get damage, such like premature wear and shearing; Always follow the Manufacturer's recommendation on the Manual. In my case, for my Wife's car which has a version of the 4EAT, I pour Valvoline's High Mileage ATF plus a quart of Lucas Transmission fix additive, and that combo makes the transmission to work smoothly and flawlessly; I do change all the Transmission ATF with said combo, on a yearly basis. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.
  8. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Mechanical Conversion on Hitachi Carburetors

    Overview: If your stock carbureted Subaru EA engine feels Gutless, slower than it used to be, and some times, it overreacts during acceleration and sounds louder while your subie runs like a bat out of hell, and the Hitachi Carburetor has a Vacuum Operated Secondary (high) Stage; I Bet that the Vacuum actuator that activates it, is failing. Even with non failing vacuum activated secondaries; I've made Mechanical Conversions on those carburetors, always with Great Results. The Difference between the Vacuum operated and the Mechanically operated Secondaries (high) Stages, lies in the Moment for Reaction, and how the engine reacts to your acceleration behaviour; let me explain: In the vacuum operated carbs, the Secondary (high) Stage which gives the "Power", will work depending on the engine's vacuum; which depends on RPMs, and thus means that it will work accelerating indirectly; while on the Mechanically operated carbs, the "Power" is always there, to react at your very will, each time you press the Gas Pedal, and thus means that the acceleration is Directly. The mechanically activated secondary (High) stage on the Weber carburators and its Robust, pure smart simplicity, are the main factors why a Weber Carb is super desirable on the Carburated EA engines; it also helps you to get rid of tons of unuseful things from the crowded engine bay... on those states in USA with not too restrictive laws, regarding pollution control. But if you can't afford a Weber carb, or don't want to do ~► the Weber Carb Swap Job, then a Mechanical Conversion on your Hitachi Carb will help your ride to be more reactive to your accelerating behaviour. There is absolutely No Downsides with such Mechanical Conversion on the Carburator, if it is Done properly. How to do the Mechanical Conversion: Prior to explain that, I must say this: If you really don't understand and don't have too much mechanical experience, then I kindly suggest you to Ask to a Qualified Mechanic with Knowledge / Experience in Carburetors, to do that Mechanical Conversion for you, instead of trying it by yourself; because to instal a badly assembled / damaged carb, could be pretty Dangerous in many different ways, so Be Careful! (Disclaimer: Use all the info I post, at your own Risk) Basically talking, the Mechanical conversion is done at follows: ► Remove the Vacuum actuator attached to the secondary (High) Stage, along all its hardware, ► close any open threads with screws; ► then attach a piece of hard, inox wire, firmly secured to the mechanism that opens the primary (low) stage Butterfly, which is directly connected to the accelerator plate, (in the other side) where the accelerator cable goes. ► Then, Twist that wire giving to it the shape of a Hook or a curved finger that wanna pull something, in order to let the primary (low) stage butterfly, to touch and move the mechanism that moves the Secondary (High) stage Butterfly, just after the primary (low) has been moved and it reached around its Half (50%) opening. You must "Calibrate" that movement on the Secondary (High) stage, by twisting the Wire, in order to achieve Full Opening of Both Butterflies when the Accelerator Plate is at fully acceleration (Maximum) which equals to the Gas Pedal being floored, and also the Secondary (High) Stage butterfly shall remain completely closed, during the first half movement from the primary (low) stage butterfly. Let me Show you a Short Video that Demonstrates how it Works: Here is an easy Repair guide for those Hitachi Carburetors, plenty of pictures (Not mine, Found it online) Download it here: ~► Hitachi 2 Barrel Carburetors Visual Repair Guide If you find useful information here, let me Know by hitting the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.
  9. This writeup is for the Third Gen Subaru Leone, a.k.a: "Loyale" or "EA82" etc, but the ideas given here might work, with some changes, to other vehicles as well. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Have you ever felt the Seat on your Subie like a Rocking Chair? The Subaru EA82 GL has a Complicated Air Conditioner Distribution Design, which includes a couple of Ducts under the Front Seats, one ends there to deliver Air to the Rear Passenger's Feet, and the other Duct delivers Air to the Rear Doors' Windows; this last Duct, passes through one of the Front seat supports, weakening its structure somehow. The Weakest Front Seat Support, is the one located at the Rear of them, next to the point where the Seat Belt Anchors; there is the A/C Duct passing in the middle of said Support. I've seen some local Subies with those Supports Broken, especially the Driver's side one, and the owners didn't knew the reason why their Driver's side seat was loose and / or way too much reclined to the Back... (when said support is not only Broken, but also Deformed for using it like that) ...I Bet that many Subie owners could have same issue on their cars, without even knowing, nor completely noticing it. So, that support on the Driver's Side in my Subaru "BumbleBeast" has broken for the Second Time... I Know: I am a Big Guy, 6' tall and over 110 Kg driving an Old Subie Wagon with Hardened "Reinforced" suspension, so the autogenous welding I did a couple of years ago to simply put that broken support together, will never last too much... so this was the Perfect Time to Reinforce that Seat Support and permanently getting Rid from that problem.
  10. Look Here: ~► http://www.carthrottle.com/toyotas-done-the-dirty-on-us-gt86-saloon-confirmed/ So sad it is not April 1st, so it must be True... Kind Regards.
  11. Greetings, This time I am trying to do my Best to help a Friend, Mr. Mariano, who owns a 1980 Subaru GFT-5 Coupé, which came factory with an EA71 engine that features Twin Hitachi carburator setup. Here is a Photo of his Subie: Here's a Photo of that Subie's Engine Bay: Photos of the Actual factory intake manifold: He is in the middle of the Restoration process of that Subaru, and he really wants to get rid of those hitachi craps that seems like now they're bad beyond any repair, he dreams about to obtain a single carb intake manifold that fits his Subie's engine and fit there a Weber Carb. He already obtained a 32/36 Weber and the Trans-Dapt 2107 adaptor, also he obtained a Single carb intake that was sold to him as "For the Subaru 1600" which is the EA71, but the intake was longer, so we believe it was for the EA81 ... and he already welded with aluminium the Trans-Dapt adaptor to that unuseful -for him- intake manifold, as you can see... By seeing this Photos and seeing the Position of the Starter behind the engine, on a side, I want to Ask (To be sure): ► is that a Fat Case EA71, isn't it? ► Does the Twin Carb EA71's comes with Reversed Valves as the Twin Carbs EA81's does? Here is a Photo of his Original Owner's Manual about the Valves (in Spanish): Words in spanish over the Valve's drawing means: "Exhaust Valves" while words in spanish under same drawing says "Intake Valves". The main Question could be: ► Will a Single Carb EA71 intake manifold fit right to this engine, or not? Due to the Lack of Spare parts, we were crossing Private Messages, planning to cut the Upper part of the EA81 intake, along the welded adaptor, and cut the upper part of the Twin Carb EA71 intake, and weld the EA81 part to the Twin carb EA71 one, without touching the Water passage... Sounds crazy enough, isn't it? Please let us Know your Ideas about that, and the Answers to our Questions, which will be Greatly appreciated. Kind regards.
  12. This writeup is intended for the Subaru Loyale / GL \ Third Gen Leone (1984 ~1994 EA82) models, however... ...many ideas shown here applies to other car's instrument clusters. I Hope the Procedures that I will explain here, will be Helpful for people who want to remove the Dashboard and instrument Cluster on their Subarus, without breaking the old plastics, nor damaging anything. Also I'll explain how to Clean and Retrofit LED Bulbs on the instrument Cluster and the Dashboard's button panels. Warning! The Procedures I'll Explain here are based in my Own experience with my Subaru "BumbleBeast" instrument Cluster and Dashboard, My Subie is a 1985 California -USA- version, Carbureted EA82 Wagon with the -almost- Clear (yellowish) instrument Cluster, Newer models has a green tinted clusters. The procedures I explain here are for the Left Hand Drive Subaru Models, with analog Clusters. Despite that different models came with different clusters' designs,the ideas I post here, shall work on the analog clusters... ...those Ideas and Procedures are NOT intended for the Digital instrument Clusters, that came on the Luxury GL-10 Models... ...but those also can have LED lights retrofitted, I'll show you photos in further posts of this Writeup. Important Note: please be careful when applying these ideas, especially the Right Hand Drive Subaru Models, which has Reversed sides. Disclaimer: Use this Ideas, and all the ideas I share on the forums, at your Own Risk! Prior to Remove the Dashboard's Cover and take out the instrument Cluster, I had sometime Looking for its Parts and Diagrams, Here... ...and here... ...and I Found this... ...Useful Diagrams... ...and Part Numbers... Part of the motivation to do this was also the Oil Pressure Gauge on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" because it was reading below the Low Mark. That happened when the Cable that comes from the Sender at the oil pump, accidentally got loose and its plug touched bare matal (Ground) around, it made the needle to go Up more than its Limits, stretching its internal coil, and since then, it Looked like This: I went to the Local Subaru Dealer to see if they had the Replacement, and they did, but they sell the whole Part from the instrument cluster, and it doesn't have the Oil Pressure Gauge, it was the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs version for the EA71 engined models, because it had a Lower RPM's range Red line: at 5.5K ... This is the Part the Local Dealer's salesman showed to me: and this is its part Number: So, I had no choice except to figure out how to Fix that Low reading Oil Gauge, and finally I Did it! ... ... Continue reading, I'll explain how, in the Followin' Posts. Since I was at the Dealer, I purchased three new Bulb's with Sockets, just in case I break a Socket, but those where Not needed at all. However, I posted the above picture just in case anybody needs its part number. After that introduction, I'll Start to Explain the Procedures in the Followin' Posts
  13. THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION! ► This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models which are the third gen of the Subaru Leone, however, you can retrofit the Rear disc brakes' system, from the EA82 lineup (third gen), to the EA81 lineup (second gen), and then, what I written here also will apply on the previous generation. ► "e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup. ► There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive and / or hard to find parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable Retrofit with Amazing Results. pay attention to the Important Notes... Warning! - Use this information at your Own Risk A Brief Introduction: Those of us who own a Subaru that came with Front e-Brake and always desired to retrofit a reliable Rear e-Brake system, but was afraid about the Parts Needed, the works to be done and the Results; here I will do my Best to Guide you in this Step by Step Photo Procedure to do it Right & Easy. Different reasons might have each one to do such Retrofitting; mine is that the Front e-Brake on my Subaru BumbleBeast after all these years and thousands of miles of Rude use, became too rusty & worn that leaked brake fluid; no matter if that was just rebuilt... So I Got rid of the Front e-Brake as you can see pics, ~► Here, from Post Nº 61. First Part: Your Subaru Must have Rear Disc Brakes. My Subaru "BumbleBeast" already had the Rear Disc Brakes from a Turbo Loyale, as you can see, ~► Here; Having the Rear Disc Brakes makes this Retrofit much easier, because if your subie Still has rear Drum Brakes, you'll need to Find a good Set of Rear Disc Brakes for your Model, Prior to do this Conversion. Second Part: Background Information. I've read & Heard about Rear e-Brake conversions, using Nissan's parts, usually because both Nissan & Subaru used Brake Parts made by the same Japanese "Tokiko" Brand, but that parts aren't exactly a Direct fit and you must do certain works to make them Work; as you can see & Read, ~► Here, and ~► Here, but also I've heard that the e-Brake on Nissans with Rear Disc Brakes, is Weak because isn't very well designed... So, Forget about Nissan parts! Third part: How I Found the Donor Car & Parts Used. So, I Went to Hunt for Parts to do my Rear e-Brake Retrofit at our local Junk Yards (Called here: "Yonkers" more info and photos ~► Here) and miraculously I Found in one of those, a Subaru 1986 Turbo Sedan that still had its Rear Disc Brakes intact -beside some Rust & Dirt- also many other useful pieces & Parts. I Took out a Rear Trail arm from it, to do many Tests with its Disc Brake, in order to Find the Proper Calipers that could Fit there easy, also without any Risk to the Security on the Road. I Tested Nissan 200 and 240 Calipers there but I Don't liked the way they fit, because was somehow a Little "Forced" and the 4WD subies will have problems with the e-Brake Cable levers on the Nissan's calipers, 'cos they must be in the way of the Rear Axles... Long time ago, I Read that Certain Honda Accords with Rear Disc Brakes, has very similar calipers to the Subaru ones; ~► Here; So I Started to Search within Hondas with Rear Disc Brakes. Found the Perfect Donor in a '92 Honda Accord with Rear Disc Brakes, like this one: I Removed one of its Rear trail Arms too and I Started to figure out, how to Fit the Honda's Rear Caliper onto the Subaru's Rear Disc. This is the Subaru's Rear Trail Arm: This is the Honda's Rear Trail Arm: As Written above, Subaru uses the Japanese brand "Tokiko" for their Brake parts, while Honda Uses the also Japanese brand "Nisin" for their Brake Parts; but Despite that both Rear Calipers Looked Very Similar, they're Very Different at the Same Time; because the Honda's "Nisin" has built-in e-Brake and a Special protective Metallic Cover; while the Subaru's "Tokiko" has Nothing like That. The Honda's "Nisin" e-Brake System Looks very much Better Designed & Protected than the Nissan's "Tokiko" Design for Sure.
  14. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    How to Easily Test an Ignition Module

    The Ignition Module is the Electronic Part that Substituted the Points inside the Distribuitor; it usually consist in two parts: One Pick up the Signal and the other sends the Pulses to the Ignition Coil. How you Test an Ignition Module? This Test was Done with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, from a Carburated EA82 Subaru Engine, from the 2WD version; but this test is pretty Standard. This is the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, without its Cap, so you can see its Interior: The Red Part is the Rotor, while the Two Black plastic covers under it, hides the Two Parts that conforms the Ignition Module, they only have two Wires Between them and other two wires that goes outside from one of them, to the Ignition Coil. To do the Test, You'll Need: - A Good 12V Battery and Jumper Wires to use its Power. - The Distribuitor with its Rotor & Ignition Module inside. - The Ignition Coil. - A Sparkplug's Wire. - A Sparkplug. The Distribuitor has two Wires that comes from the Ignition Module, one is Black with White Stripe, this is the Positive (+) while the Yellow one is the Ground (-) or Negative one. The Easy Test Procedure goes as Follows: If you Turn Manually the Distribuitor's Gear under it, Two things Might Happens: ► Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Good Ignition Module. ► No Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Dead Ignition Module. But you MUST Double Check that you have done Right the Connections. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.
  15. This is not a scientific article; the main purpose is to give you the general idea regarding different motor oils, and how to wisely chose the proper one for your car's engine; also understanding how they do their job, and more... Don't do this! In this Article: ♪ Understanding Motor Oils ♫ Understanding Classification and Nomenclature ♪♫ How to Wisely chose between the Manufacturers given numbers ♫♫ Differences between Mineral and Synthetic Oils, and types of Synthetics ♫♪♫ and Much More! ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Motor Oils, Basically Does all these Things: ► First: Engine Oil stops all the Metal surfaces in your Engine from Grinding together and Shearing themselves from Friction, by Lubricating its internals. ► Second: Engine Oil transferes the Heat away from the Combustion cycle. ► Third: Engine Oil must also be able to Hold in Suspension all the Nasty by-products of combustion, such as Silica (silicon oxide) and Acids, also External contamination, such as Dust. ► Fourth: Engine Oil minimises the Exposure to Oxygen and thus prevents Oxidation at Higher temperatures. It does all of these things under Tremendous Heat and Pressure... Part one: the Proper Viscosity & Thickness (SAE Grade) Recommended for your engine. SAE = Means a Standard of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Remember: The viscosity of a fluid describes its resistance to flow. Heavyweighted fluids such as honey have high viscosity and flow very slowly, while Lightweighted fluids such as water have a low viscosity and flow much faster under the same conditions & temperatures. But in the Motor oil World, Viscosity is somewhat confused with Thickness, and those are two different things with different meanings. ☼ Viscosity depends strongly on temperature and is a major factor in the Flow of the oils. In example, the specification “10W~30” (“W” means “winter”) in a motor oil means the viscosity of the oil at 0º C (32º F) is no more than 3.1 poise, while the viscosity at 100º C (212º F) is no less than 0.1 poise. Naturally, all oils gets thin and flows easily when they are at high temperatures and pressures. (Normal working conditions inside any engine). But modern Oil formulas are designed in Labs (Mixed with special additives), to have certain compensation to that thinning, to keep doing their job properly under high heat and pressure. I will explain how this compensation occurs, below. ☼ Thickness of the oil, is about the oil Barrier it could lay, inbetween moving metallic parts to prevent Shearing. It is the "cushion" that bears the friction between moving metal parts, the greater number means thicker "cushion" but, you should keep in mind that the tolerances between moving metallic parts, not always allows a "Thick" oil to flow properly; that is the reason why certain manufacturers, indicates to use -in example- a 5W~20 (Thin) motor oil, while other manufacturers indicates to use a 20W~50 (Thick) motor oil, on same displacement engines; (Compare older engines with up to date ones). You shall never exceed the numbers given by the car's manufacturer, or the engine internals' tolerances will not allow the oil to flow properly / in time, nor to do its job as it should, causing damages to the engines. Obviously, hot oil will flow better than cold oil, but here... ...you can see how they Behave at 0º C (32º F) ► Multigrade oils have the ability to compensate the natural thinning of their molecules, that normally happens with Heat, so they gets their molecules to grow Thicker when they're exposed to the internal temperatures of a working engine; in that manner, multigrade oils compensates the natural fluid's weight reduction due to the heat exposure; in example: A 10W~40 Oil will behave as a grade "10" oil does at Cold-to-Ambient Temperatures, and will become thicker and behave as a grade "40" oil does, when it it exposed to the heat of the engine at its normal operating temperatures. So those oils with a "W" on their SAE Grade, are "Multigrade" Oils, (W for Winter times) their first number on their SAE grade is the "cool temperatures" number: Thinner oil helps to the engine's oil pump to move the oil faster during cold starts when engine is Cool and thus means less shearing by friction during cold starts. But the Oil's molecules will become thicker with heat, so the same oil will behave as the Second Number, intended for "hot temperatures" on their SAE Grade, when the engine Reaches its Normal operating Temps, compensating in order to have enough protective oil film "Cushion" between moving metal parts and prevent shearing. Want to learn How the Oil "Thickness" protective layer prevents Shearing on your Engine? ... Download the .pdf file document at the Bottom of this Page, you can see tests' results with Photos on it. The oil barrier thickness increases with Heat due to the Polymers that where added to the Oil, those absorb temperatures; also Thinner Oils will increase the Oil Pressure on the engine and that is really needed on Cold Starts, to help the Oil to Reach the Farther engine's places, Faster. How do Multigrade oils get Thicker with heat? The answer was given by Mobil 1: Here: ~► http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Multi_Viscosity_Oils_Long_Molecule_Thicker_Oils.aspx ► Monograde Oils (Single SAE Number) will not vary at all and will behave the same at all the temperatures' range; unless it becomes Very hot, when its Thickness 'Could be' Reduced, it is known as "Oil Break Down" ... (more noticeable on Cheap brands with poor Quality) ... That is the inverse situation and could be Harmful for a Very Hot Operating or for an Overheating Engine: That oil under that conditions could Lost its main Lubricating Properties. I Really advice against the use of Monograde oils on Cars, because they Won't flow properly on Cold Starts, remember: Those parts that worns faster inside the Engine are those parts that doesn't get Oil fast enough with Proper Pressure; so a Multigrade Oil will Reduce both the Time working without Oil on Cold Starts and the low Pressure. Monograde oils could still be good for Power Plants, 18 wheels' trucks, etc... But Not ideal for a Car's engine. Keep the Proper SAE Grade in Mind when you Buy your Next Oil. Be Careful with the Viscosity Grade! The Oil Pumps only creates flow, not Pressure; the Pressure exists due to the Resistance on the engine's internals to such Flow; and the hydrodynamic film strength is what prevents metal to metal Shearing. A thicker oil will increase oil pressure in any engine, but only to a point, due to the Oil Pressure Relief Valve that will simply route oil back to the pan after Reaching certain pressure on the System. So, since Pressure is resistance to flow, a 20W~50 motor Oil will increase pressure, but it means that it does not flow as well through the bearings nor to the top of the motor, causing the Low Pressure problems, let me explain: Considering that a 20W~50 oil is 3 to 4 times thicker cold than a 5W~30, when a Cold engine is Started, there will be Restricted oil Flow when it is needed the Most: the oil relief valve will Cut the flow further by opening at the higher pressure and dumping oil back into the pan. In some engines it will take Longer for the oil to get to the cam shafts, and the Small diameter hole in the middle does not facilitate the Flowing to the high viscosity oil. Since the oil flows from Front to Rear on the cam shafts, it is going to take the last Cylinder valves the Longest to get the oil Flow Needed. The oil squirters spray pattern on the cylinder walls will degrade with a high viscosity oil, especially in cold conditions. While a thinner motor oil keeps the pressure in the upper engine, because the pressure is less than the oil relief valve's top pressure, and the system gets well presurized faster. Remember that the Automotive industry changed their way of thinking regarding Engines. In the past, small displacement engines were designed, keeping in mind that they were built to be used in compact cars; and "Long Lasting" was their main concern, as automotive makers wanted to make a reputation; so Older engines are more "loose" which means that their tolerances -the space inbetween moving metallic parts, and tiny passages- was greater, and could be filled easily with thicker motor oils; that is the reason why you can read in the owners' manual from an average 1.8L engine from the 1980's decade, that 20W~50 was usually the oil recommended to be used. If automotive makers wanted performance and high horsepower output, they had then the six cylinders and eight cylinders' engines with Big Displacement, intended for "Performance" you know... But, the automotive industry of nowadays, is using pretty small displacement engines to move big cars, you can see big SUV's with in-line four cylinder engines that has small displacements, but having high power output, rounding the average Hp of a V6 from the past; and what they did to achieve such goal, is -basically talking- to make their engines "Tight" by reducing Tolerances at their minimum, and use metal alloys that resist such kind of internal pressures; but they requires pretty "Thin" Motor Oils to lubricate properly such engines with tight tolerances; that is the reason why you can see 0W~16 and even 0W~8 motor oils on the autoparts stores, nowadays... Long story short: Despite that a 20W~50 motor oil, provides a better "Cushion" between metallic moving parts, to prevent Shearing; you can Not use such a thick motor oil on an Engine that was not designed to be Lubricated with it; tight tolerances will never allow it to Lubricate and do its job as it should; that is the Reason why you should always respect the Manufacturers' given Numbers in your user's Manual, and if they provides various option, Choose wisely (keeping in mind the environmental / climate temperatures of your area), from the numbers given. Part Two: The Motor Oil's Quality. The American Petroleum institute API Has Two ways to classify Motor Oils: the Gasoline Motor Oils are clasified under the "S" Letter (From "Spark" combustion engine) While Diesel engine oil is clasified under the "C" Letter (From "Compresor" Combustion engine) The API has a program to certify that the Motor oils, meets the strict Performance and quality standards put in place by the OEM. The Service Rating is shown in the API “Service Seal” on the product label, that may look like one of these examples: So, The letter that follows the "S" or the "C" will let you know if the Additives Package (Detergents, Dispersants, Stabilizers, etc... ) is Better or Worse for your application. Any Letter from "A" to "Z" could be next to the "S" or "C" Letter, the more Newer Classification will place a higher Letter there, as Follows: GASOLINE motor oils must read as Follows: SA = Early -older- motor Oils, Very Basic and without any Additive. (then the classification continued with: SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG,SH... etc...) SN = Very Recent Classification, includes a Complete Additive Package for Gasoline Engines under the APi Norm. DIESEL motor oils must read as Follows: CK = -or any other Letter instead the "K" like "F", etc.- (Could have a Number 2 or 4 Next to it) The CF or CF-4 are for regular Four Stroke Diesel engines. CF-2 (and other classifications bearing the "-2" symbol) are oils for especial Two Stroke Diesel engines. Beware of those Cheap oils, usually with unknown brand, due to their Lowest quality, in example this one, despite of being "Made in USA" is the worst thing to happen to any engine, besides of running out of oil: ► Important Note: if a DIESEL Motor Oil has, Besides its CK, CF, CG or CH Diesel oil APi classification, any "S" Classification (Such like "SN") , also you can pour them on Gasoline Engines; those kind of oils are commonly known as "Fleet Oils" ... in fact I've been using 15W~40 Fleet Oil from Chevron, the "Delo 400" since many years ago in many EFi cars, with excellent results, because those kind of oils has a very High value of Zinc, which is really needed to prevent wear, especially in older engines, while a Standard "Gasoline Only" motor oil, might comply with the same APi Class, but lacking the needed Zinc additive. But if the Diesel Motor Oil Doesn't have any "S" (such like SL or SH or SM) APi Classification, then Avoid pouring it onto ANY Gasoline engine, those are "Diesel-Only" motor oils. I Kindly Suggest you to Check ANY Motor oil to see if it has the Round Seal from the API ... as the above posted Examples. And the Proper SAE Grade inside that Seal's Circle. If you Pour a "Diesel Only" Oil in a Gasoline Engine, it could be somehow Harmful for the Gasoline Engine, due to the lack of the especific additives for this kind of engine; While the Diesel Oils which also carries the gasolinemotor oil Additives Pack included, (usually known as "Fleet" Oils) are Very Good and Outstanding Oils for Gasoline Engines, they also add "Zinc" to the Additive pack, that normally a "Gasoline-Only" motor oil, lack to have. On the Other Hand: if you Pour just "Gasoline only" Non-diesel motor oil on a Diesel engine, the Oil will be Blackened almost inmediately and will fail for Proper Lubrication and Protection of the Metallic Surfaces, Beside other malfunctions; because the Gasoline oil will absorb the Harmful particles that Diesel Combustion filter to the oil and it couldn't manage those, because Gasoline Motor Oils aren't intended for such contamination. The current Service category Rating for Gasoline engines (since 2012) for cars and light trucks, is “SN” The API SN rating is equivalent to the "GF-5" oil rating by the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee "ILSAC" the SN and GF-5 rated motor oils are backward compatible with previous categories' motor oils, and can be used in any older engines. For Diesel engines, The current category is "CK-4" (updated in 2017), while the older category was “CJ-4” (introduced in 2007 for diesel engines that have exhaust gas recirculation). The previous "CI-4" (2002), "CH-4" (1998) "CG-4" (1995) and "CF-4" (1990)categories, can be used in older four-stroke diesel engines. "CF-2" (1994) is the API classification for two-strokeDiesel engines. Part Three: Synthetic Motor Oils. Synthetic Motor Oil... It's a confusing topic, and there's a lot of Rhetoric, largely Because some Manufacturers and Peddlers of Synthetics have made a lot of inaccurate and self-serving claims over the years. Some, actually a lot, of this Rhetoric is pretty Strident and Opinionated. The problem that Most People encounter when switching a High Mileage car to Synthetic Oils, is due to the Detergents in the synthetic oil. The conventional oil "Gunk" accumulates Around the Gaskets and other Places, often times preventing leaks... The Synthetic oil begins to Remove this "Gunk" and things like Oil Pan Gaskets, Main Seals, and Valve Cover Gaskets, start to Leak oil. Now there are "High Mileage" Syntetic motor oils, so the Leakage problem could be, somehow, controlled ... ... But another thing to Consider is, Based on your Car's year model and type of cam / lifter configuration... a Roller Cam system works fine with Synthetic oil; However, with the removal of Zinc from Engine Oils over the last few years, many Flat Tappet Cams have been unhappy with this change. Most Synthetic oils Doesn't contain Enough Zinc and are Not additive friendly ... ... (that is the reason why I preffer Diesel + Gasoline -fleet- Motor Oils: They do have Zinc, as I stated above). Briefly, there are Two Types of "synthetic" Oils on the market. ► Group IV oils consist of Molecules that are synthesized from simpler chemical compounds. This lets the Chemical Engineers to "tune" the characteristics of a lubricant to exact specifications. These oils are "Fully Syntetic" and flows more Freely at extreme Low temperatures and don't Break Down at very High temperatures; also they generally can be specified one or two grades Lighter than a mineral oil, which consumes less energy and saves Fuel. (Energy Conserving Oils) ► Group III Oils are made from Reprocessed petroleum products normally left over after making Crude oil into Gasoline, Diesel fuel, Heating oil and other products... so they're "Half Syntetic" oils, or Syntetic Blends. They're more modestly priced and have many of the desirable characteristics of the higher-priced Spread. In much of the World outside the USA, Group III-based lubricants are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic." Don't assume that if is a Synthetic Oil, it is so Good... (Read: very Expensive) ...that you don't need to Change it as often. The base lubricant may be way Better, but the Additive package... (which can be as Much as 25 percent of the Volume of the Product in a Bottle) ...can still Become Exhausted, especially if you drive on Dirty / Muddy \ Dusty enviroments, due to Oil Contamination. Also: Unburned Fuel, Partially Burned Hydrocarbons, Atmospheric Dirt, Metal Wear Particles and Blowby Carbon Particles will Build Up just as fast in a Synthetic-Lubricated engine as in one with petroleum-based oil ... ... The Only Way to Remove all that dirt & contamination is to Drain and Replace the oil. I've always recommended 3000-Mile oil Change intervals in offroading driving conditions, despite if you run Synthetic oil or not, and much more extended mileage for City Drivers. So, with that facts in Mind, To switch to Syntetic motor oils on older engines intended for the Average Driving needs, does Not make any sense; Those syntetic oils are Better for Newer engines... (with Closer tolerances and better PCV systems which keep their oils Cleaner) ...or when the Car is build for Race or Special purposses; but otherwise if you offroad frequently, or drive in dirty enviromants, you'll be Wasting a lot of Money unnecesary, because you'll need to Drain the Oil around each 3000 Miles to keep the Oil with proper Lubrication and the Engine internals safely clean. Part Four: Motor Oil Flush. Prior to change your old oil, if you want to switch from a mineral oil to a synthetic oil, I kindly Suggest to use a Motor Oil Flush Cleaner in high mileage engines, especially if you use your car for Offroading purposses or drive in very dirty enviroments. I use this from Motul on my BumbleBeast's Weberized EA82 engine, because I Drive it very Hard, 40% off-Roading (on weekends) and 60% in City Streets (is my Daily Driver), it keeps the tiny oil passages, especially those on the Hydraulic Lifters, very clean. It is Amazing how many Mud, sludge and Dirt those Cleaners could Remove from the Engine, especially if you has never used one and the engine has high mileage. You only need to pour a Bottle to the Old oil Just before changing it, and let the engine idle for ten Minutes... (Follow the Directions on the Motor Flush Bottle, it might vary on Different Brands)...then Flush the old Oil, change the old oil filter, pour fresh oil and Voilá! But I Kindly Suggest you to Not do such Detergent Flush frequently; if you do this cleansing too often, some seals could suffer a leak due to several reasons which includes: Attack from chemical agents and / or too much Gunk removed. If you Drain your engine's old Oil on a Regular Basis and use good quality oil, there shall not be needed a Chemical Motor Flush, in theory ... but every some years / high mileage isn't bad at all, and could aid to the engine's longevity while keepin' the internals and tiny oil passages / hydraulic lifters more clean. Part Five: Motor Oil Filters. ► Always respect the Part Number given by the Engine's Manufacturer, or use the proper equivalent filter, according to the oil Filter's manufacturer Book of cross references; but Never use an oil filter that is not listed to be used on your Engine, no matter if it has the same thread and pitch, or size; because other important things could be Different, such like the amount of pressure needed to activate their internal pressure relief valves, etc... ► Always chose from a good reputation manufacturer; oil filters made by unknown companies, could Fail, making catastrophic damages to your car's engine. It Never worths to save a penny, risking your Safety and the safety of your Family. Have you thought about that such a simple desision could left you Stranded in the Middle of Nowhere, with a Blown engine on your car? ► If you chose to use a Fully Sinthetic motor Oil that could last much Longer inside your Engine, than a regular -mineral- motor oil; Don't forget to also choose a Long Lasting Oil Filter, for synthetic motor Oils; otherwise, your Filter could fail earlier than when you wanted to change the Oil ... ... I Hope this Writeup will Help you to determine which motor oil is the best for your engine, because Motor oils Shall not be Choosen by Brand nor Marketing, but by the API Classification and SAE Grade considering the Specific Application where they're Needed and the temperatures where they shall work. You must choose between the specs given by the engine's manufacturer for Oil Viscosity, and also chose the Additive Pack that best fit your Engine's age & design, your Kind of Driving and the Climate of the World's area where you Live; so the Smart choice is always to choose the better motor oil to Achieve the proper Balance between flow, needed additive pack and usage, because a very Low Viscosity motor oil will help you to save Gas (Energy Conserving) also will Help in Cold Starts in Cold Climates, but will worn faster the engine's internals on Hot Climates than a High Viscosity motor oil; but if you go too High, the low flow pressure during cold starts on Cold Climates, plus the limited space due to tight tolerances / tiny passages on modern engines, will worn things faster too, and newer API Classifications, such like "SN" does Not carry enough Zinc to be safe on Older engines, such like the Subaru EA series of engines, in such case a "Fleet Oil" with enough Zinc is Highly recommended, es explained above. That is the Reason Why car makers put some different Oil Viscosity Numbers to choose from, on their User's Manual; the Lower Viscosity oils are suitable for Winter times or Cold Climates, while the Higher Viscosity Oils are suitable for Summer Times or Hot Climates. In example, these are Scans of my 1983 Subaru Owner's Manual: Here in this case, you can notice that the Lower Viscosity motor oil (5W~30) is Not recommended for Sustained High Speeds, nor for Turbo Engines; only for Severe Cold Winter times; the reason is that said SAE number is a lower viscosity oil which will not fight enough the shearing on Turbo engines, nor on conventional engines during Hot Climates, or sustained high speeds in this particular EA engines. However, Newer engines with closer tolerances usually "Needs" lower viscosity numbers and thus explain the need of SAE grades such like 0W~20 in example... If you pour higher viscosity number on those Newer engines, the oil will not Flow as intended, nor reach the pressure and areas where is needed, so pouring a High viscosity numbered oil could be Dangerous in certain cases. Always follow the Manufacturer's given numbers, and chose Wisely I Found an important Document which have a Professional Oil Test, done between some Different oil Brands and between Petroleum Based Oils and Synthetic Oils; they compare the Wear from Shearing on a metallic part after the Test, using each Brand of Oil with same procedures for all; it has Pictures, so you can Easily "See" which oil has the Worse (weak) protective cushion / Film Layer and which oil has Better (Stronger) Protective cushion / Film Layer, between metallic moving parts, so you can easily have a better idea. You can Download the Document, a .pdf File with less than 5 MB, Here: ~► http://www.mediafire.com/?lrm2am5vaxk2wob Finally, always follow the Owners manual's instructions, to do Properly the Oil & Filter Change, on your vehicle, Not like this: Don't do this! If you find useful information on my article, Please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button Kind Regards.
  16. Where could I Find a Cooler temp Thermoswitch for my EA82 BumbleBeast? The Stock EA82 one is designed to start the electric Fan at 203º F while the EA82 Turbo one is Designed to Kick on at 200º F. I am Looking for something even Cooler to swap there, Because I am Removing the Fixed Pulley Driven Fan and installing another Electric fan instead, as you can read ~► Here. So, does anybody know of a Cooler thermoswitch and its part Number or Make/model of the car? Kind Regards.
  17. Hi all! Recently my BumbleBeast developed a Weird noise, a Rattle Sound that was only noticeable at idle; So I checked it and I originally thought that it had Worn A/C Compressor's Ball Bearings... (as you can read ~► Here ) ...but the A/C kept working fine. So, I was about to install my Brand New SJR Lift kit for the front only... (as you can see ~► Here ) ...and I decided to Remove the Weberized EA82 engine from my BumbleBeast to check it carefully and make the lift install easier, also, I got Rid of the Timing Belts' Covers at all... (as you can Read ~► Here ) ...Because I thought that the Weird Noise source could be a Worn Timing Belt Tensioner's Ball Bearing. Then with the Engine out, I Discovered that the Source of the Weird noise was the Main Fan, the one attached to the Water Pump's Pulley, also known as "Mechanical" fan; so my BumbleBeast's A/C compressor is fine. A Little bit of Background History: The Fan clutch it had, failed around year 1993, so I decided to Fix the Fan by Drillin' a 1/4" Hole thru the Fan clutch and insert a 1/4" Twisted wire into that hole and Welded the wire to the Fan's Base. It worked good since then... but now, several years later; the Hole I Drilled on the Fan Clutch's area, became Wider and the Welded wire is Loose, also the Fan is Loose, so that thing is Ruined... I Need to obtain a New Fan for that, I'll Like to Keep the original fan setup, but here comes the Question: is there any Fan that fits the Pulley on my EA82 that comes without Fan Clutch? I Really need one, ASAP... Kind Regards.
  18. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Rebuilding Rusted / Damaged Body

    I own my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since new, in 1985, but this Writeup is Not regarding that wagon, This is regarding the other yellow wagon I had for short time, which originally was purchased as a "Parts Car" and then was turned onto my Subaru Loyale 2.7 Turbo Project. It lasted some years, it was fun, but the turbo was never attempted to be installed, although I had the EA82T pistons on a shelf... the Overheating and other issues demotivated me; and now that 2.7 Wagon is Dead, was in a huge frontal crash, you can read the whole story in the Following web link: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ However, I did a restoration to the Body of that 2.7 Wagon, and here I will share the step by step procedures that I followed, plenty of detailed photos, that I hope might be useful for you. First of all, the Previous owner of this Wagon had a Short Garage, so the Rear part was sticking outside, the caribbean rainy weather in Honduras had rusted parts of it that I had repaired in the Past. But Now, I Decided to first, Remove all the Paint and everything else to expose the bare Metal Sheet. inside and outside, I removed Everything! Surprise! ... I Discovered that the area around the Fuel Filler cap of the Car had a Minor Hit that Pushed one inch the Sheetmetal to the inside, and the Previous Owner, instead of Fixing that, covered the area with Bondo; and it was even Worse: There was Rust Hiding behind that! So I Used a Tool to Remove that Bondo:
  19. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    The "BUMBLE BEAST"

    This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon. ______________________________________________________________________________________ My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it ... ... The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR... This is a very old photo which I scanned: After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" and thus explains my Screen Name. That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together: Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here) the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here. Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it. I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes: ► I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes! ► I "Shaved" the Subie's Body. (Paint thread ~► Here) ► Lifted it for medium duty offroading! ► Some minor Body Design Changes, ► and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps. Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in Yellow; That was my Motivation to Change its Colour. Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread. After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: The "BUMBLE BEAST"
  20. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    EA82 to ER27 Swap

    First, let me Tell you that I think that such Swap Really is a Bad Idea; but since I've "Been There, Done That" and lots of USMB Members have asked about that via PM to me, I Decided to do this Writeup for an Overall experience Reference. Lets Begin with a brief introduction history: My Subaru Relation Started Long Time Ago... it is a Long Story that I Already had Told here in the Past Years, but Long story Short: My Dad Purchased in 1985 (when I was Child) a White Subaru Loyale Wagon EA82 Almost new (Came Running from the Dealer in California USA, to Honduras) It ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytic converters, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here, Unleaded gasoline became available until 1994) so we Removed the Cathalytics, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR and ASV ... Now it has a Great Weber Carb, H.I.D. Lights, plus many many more Upgrades and actually is my "Everyday Warrior" renamed as "BumbleBeast". Then in 1998 a Dad's Friend who had another EA82 Wagon, that was Light Grey with minor rust in the Back of the Body, (His Garage was Short) but a dead Engine, (Ran out of Oil) was in troubles due to the Hurricane Mitch's Damages that almost destroyed my country; so my dad Purchased that grey wagon with the idea to make it a Spare Parts Car for our White Wagon, and by the Way, help his Friend with some Money... Then, in year 2000 we came across with someone who got his XT6 Horribly Crashed in the back by a Bus and was parting it out... (there are Very Few XT6's in my Li'l Country) ...we obtained its engine and then the Story Begun. To Swap ER27 engine from the XT6 on a loyale takes too much work, time and effort; also needs to be very Creative because it needed a whole Lot of things to be modified and/or created (Built). The ER27 Looks like a EA82 with an extra pair of Cylinders, but is Somehow Odd: The 2.7 does NOT have 6 exhaust ports like the SVX... it throws the exhaust like This: Two cylinders into one Port and the other Cylinder has one by itself on each side, makin' it to Sound like an Old Porsche. Also The 2.7 timing belts are wider than the 1.8 ones. Dad and I (plus few other Helping Friends) During the year 2000, did Swapped the ER27 engine from the XT6 into the former grey "Parts Car" and it Became the Project "Loyale 2.7" the Turbo was only a Future Plan that we Had. (That's the origin of my User name) I Painted in Dark Yellow That grey Wagon (with the ER27 engine) and became my "Weekend Warrior" and since that Swap (Year 2000) I've obtained Lots of Answers to my Subaru questions online here, in USMB; I signed up in january 2001, So even the USMB friends helped out to build that monster. Thank You! The ER27 engine Bolts to the EA82 Gearbox, we just used the ER27 Flywheel (which is Light weighted, compared to the EA82 one) but keeping the EA82 Clutch's pressure plate & Disc. The main Problems are: 1. The ER27 is Huge and it only fit on the engine bay Without the A/C condenser, Radiator & Fans; so the Radiator must be Relocated. Also you need to place a (Black) plastic or metallic barrier behind the Front Grille to avoid little Rocks to reach the Spinning engine's belts / timing belts. You'll need to be a Lot inventive to solve the Radiator problem. I did a Pair of Small Radiators interconnected, with twin fans, which Never were enough for the ER27. Other USMB Members who have done the ER27 Swap, done it with a (4"?) Lift to the Body, so the engine Lowers by dropping the Crossmember, letting a Horizontal Radiator + Fan Mounted in the Hood, with Hood Scoop & Vents; so the Radiator goes in the Top of the Engine, somehow. 2. The ER27 engine holds itself to the Front, so you must fabricate a Metallic "Arm" to place the front engine mount. 3. The ER27 is Heavy weighted and the Extended extra weight to the Front does the wagon a Li'l Saggy and could be unstable (makes the Wagon to Underbrake & Understeer) under certain situations at Higher Speeds. I Used the Front Struts from a 4WD Model (Mine was 2WD, the 4WD ones are a Li'l bit Taller) and used Ford Tempo's front Coil Springs in the front of my Wagon, that helped to keep it on level... in fact, leveling that 2.7 wagon was how I invented all the Suspension mods, that you can Read as complete Write-up, with photos, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ 4. You'll Need to Swap the XT6's ECU and Wire Harness. 5. Many things need to be Modified, like the Engine's Crossmember, Power Steering Pump Retrofit, (The one on the XT6 is electronic & Variable) Custom "Y" Pipe, Fuel Pump Upgrade, etc... The Turbo is doable, it has been Done an ER27T and even an ER27SC ... I saw it on www.xt6.net, also you can find more information and photos, here: ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/Pumped.htm ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/under_pressure.htm But since our ER27 Wagon had some Problems with overheating and Underbraking, we decided to leave it alone until we Solve the Radiator and Handling Problems First ... ... so, No Turbo. My Dad used to drive that Yellow ER27 Wagon "Weekend Warrior" at our Hometown, while I use to drive as my "Everyday Warrior" the White Weberized EA82 Wagon, 'cos I live so Far Away home due to my Job. My ER27 (XT6) Wagon Lasted a Decade, Now is Crashed and Dead. More info here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113641-could-this-be-the-end-of-my-27-project/ After we Lost the Dark Yellow 2.7 wagon, I painted my former white wagon in Lighter Yellow with Black Stripes, and became the "BumbleBeast" (More information and photos following the Link that is on my Signature) That ER27 wagon was always some sort of "Still in Development, Project Car", always unfinished, (mainly Due to the lack of Money and time, you know... ) But it was fully Driveable and it ran great and Nice at Regular Speeds, but if you Drive Faster \ Loaded / in many Uphills, the ER27 engine Overheated easily with those small Radiators ... ... maybe the best idea for such a Retrofit of an ER27 engine onto a Wagon, is This: To swap the whole front clip from the XT6 to the Wagon. Now I Know that an ER27 engine doesn't make "Faster" a Loyale, Like an EJ Engine could do, due to the Extra Weight to Horsepower Ratio... So I really Don't think that an ER27 engine is good idea for a Loyale, due to the troubles of the extra weight going to the Front -brakes and suspension- many adaptations -Lots of Patience, fabrications, time and effort- and the null space that remains in the front of the engine's bay -The radiator does not fit and it is difficult to repair or replace the front of the Engine's Parts- and other issues, Like Losing A/C, plus tires wear faster... So, instead of that ER27, a Lightweight LADM Specs EJ engine is better idea. Those Fit Better, Makes the Radiator and everything fits like Stock; also their Power is just Around the ER27 or even Better ... Plus Easy Service to their Front Parts and no "TOD" noise! ... ... I like the Strong & Durable Subaru EJ22 with LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) specs. Those EJ22 did came to Latin America (LADM) with stock Distributor & Carburetor, If I could go back in time... I think that the Subaru EJ Engine is the right way to improve a Loyale, I Hope This information will Help you; please excuse my frankness. If you find this information, useful, let me know by hitting the "Like" button. Kind Regards.
  21. I'll Try my Best to Shorten this Very Long Story: Today, I Was Drivin' my Weberized "BumbleBeast" Wagon in the Parking Lot of a Huge Shoppin' Mall, when an Old Gentleman Started to Yell at me: "Stop!, Hey You Stop!" ... ... He Took me by Surprise and I Was about to Park my Wagon nearby, so I Did it and the old man approached Saying: "...That's a Really Beautiful Old Subaru you Have..." and he Started to ask me Questions about How did I manage to Fit Those Rims in the Subie, also about the Engine's Deep & Loud Sound; Very Kindly I explained some Details... "Weber Carb, I Knew it!" he Said... Long Story Short: He accompanied me to do my errands while we were Talking about Old Subarus for around a Couple of Hours... even we ate lunch Together. Resulted that He was the Master Mechanic at the Local Dealer's Repair Shop Long time Ago (Late 1970's to Late 1980's) and he had the opportunity to go in 1983 to FHi in Japan for Training Purposes. Also he Said that at the Training's end, the Japaneses took the Students for a some sort of "Tour" around their Factories, including their Research & Development areas; he saw some Prototypes and some Engines; also many other Things... He Said that the Third Gen Subaru Leone (Usually Known here as "Loyale" or EA82) was selling in Japan since 1983 but the Japaneses wanted a New Engine to suit the New Car before Launch it Worldwide. Well, Looking to the Subaru's History, you can Confirm the date of first Launch of that Model... ...they were in the Development of the New Engine for that car; He said that they originally wanted a 2.0L Engine to be their "Top of the Line" Engine for that Model and the Very First Developments were going on that Way, With the USA Market on Mind as their First Costumer. They Already got the EA81 that was 1.8L so, to Make a Newer EA Engine with the Same Displacement does not make any Sense, Right? But their Problems were two: First the SOA's Old Campaign that sounded since 1975: 'Inexpensive and built to stay that way' the Bigger Displacement engine would Killed the "Stay inexpensive" Idea by increasing Fuel Consumption... And Second: the EA Engine Design Platform was Pushed somehow to its Limits... especially with the addition of a Turbo. So, the Japaneses Built the EA82 as we Know it, Basically Their novelty was the new implementation of Timing Belts. The Old Man Shared many more Stories with me, but that about the 2.0L EA engine was the Most interesting to Share here... After some errands together and a awesome lunch time, we've talked for hours, He Left the Place with a Big Smile in his Face, going to do what I Did with my Subaru "BumbleBeast": to Change the Lug Pattern, to fit "Standard" Rims on his Old Subaru Leone... Kind Regards.
  22. Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, I use those on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since many years ago My advice is: ► Choose a Grease intended for C.V. Joints, not a cheap, soapy universal grease. Rubber Boots: I Suggest you to use Always the Subaru Original Rubber Boots. Even Using Cheap C.V. Joints... ...Because other Brands Doesn't last very much. Subaru designed one Short Boot to be Used at the Wheel's Side (outer Boot), and one Long Boot to be Used on the Gearbox Side (inner Boot), the Difference could be Seen in this Drawing: Since both Boots does have the Same opening Measurements, their only difference is that one is Longer than the other, it does Not make any Sense to Use the Short Boot; Specially considering that the Wheel side does Much more Effort due to the Steering Turns that Stretch 'em many many times per trip. My advice is: ► Use the Longer Rubber Boot at Both ends. Because the inner Boot (Longer) Works Perfectly in the Place of the Outer Boot (Shorter). Being Longer aids the Boot to Handle Better the Continous Stretchings from the Steering Turns; so it Will Last Very Longer than the Short one, holding there the Grease, and the longer boot helps to elongate the C.V. Joints' Lifespan on Lifted rigs, because it compensates the increased angle of the axles. Also I've Found that a Simple Driving Behaviour can Make C.V. Joints to Last much more longer: To Relief Pressure from C.V. Joints while doing U-Turns; let me Explain: C.V. Joints works as you can see on the Followin' Animation: So, when you do a U-Turn, the Balls goes from one Side to Another very very Fast; if Acceleration is Forced (in Example while Accelerating the Engine) the Balls will go Faster and harder with the Extra Pressure and shearing against the walls, and that will Worn them and their Holding Basket very Fast, also their C.V. Joint's base. ► My Advice is: Do the U-Turns Just with vehicle's Impluse. Give to the Vehicle enough Speed and leave the gas pedal while doing the U-Turn, also you could Place the Shifter in Neutral Gear (or Press the Clutch Pedal to the Bottom) in manual transmission vehicles; only while the Car is Turning, that Releases the pressure from the C.V. Balls ... ...it makes Miracles in C.V. Joint's Life! One last thing that might Help, is the Use Good Quality Zip Ties, instead the Metallics with Razor's Edge that could Cut the Boot; I'm Using those in many cars since 1999 with Great Results! ... Even in my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can See in this Photo below: They'll Stay right there if Properly adjusted and be Sure to obtain the Best Quality that you can buy, not the toughest ones because those are too hard for the application. Two Things are the Most important in C.V. Joints' life: ► Grease: If a Boot Fails, you must Hurry up to Change it along with new, fresh Grease, as soon as possible, so Weekly (or Sooner) inspections to the Boots are Highly recommended. ► Driving Behaviour: if you Usually Force the C.V. Joints, (i.e: like Burning Tires in U-Turns) they'll Break soon. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.
  23. Hi All! ... ... Please Correct me if I'm Wrong, this is for my EA82 Wagon. if I Have a PCV Setup like This one... (This Awesome Clean EA82 Engine Belongs to Kanurys) ...and my EA82 is Blowin' Oil thru the PCV setup, I Must install an Oil Catch Can, Right? Recently I Obtained an Oil Catch Can that Looks similar to This one: The Questions Are: Should I Hook it Between the Driver's side Head Hose and the PCV intake Valve, isn't it? The Passenger's Side Hose Doesn't need any Oil Catch Can 'cos it will only "Suck" Air from the Air Filter's Box, at the Carb... isn't it? Any Suggestion, advice or Idea will be Greatly Appreciated. Kind Regards.
  24. Long time ago (as you can see the Background Story ~► Here in a Short thread), I wanted to do a Li'l Front Lift of 2" to level the front of my "BumbleBeast" because with my Suspension Mods (Which can be seen ~► Here) it gained two inches of lift in the Rear... Back then I Couldn't buy the 2" Lifting kit because Paypal Didn't Had Honduras in their List (Four Years Ago) But Now, that story is about tho Change... I Really Need to Lift Two inches (2") the Front to Level my "BumbleBeast", but Without Loosing the Safety and proper Camber / Caster, also I Want to Keep the Axles' angle the more Straight Possible, So, I Believe that a Pair of 2" Blocks at 15º for the Front Struts, plus Dropping the Engine Crossmember 1" will do that, isn't it? I am Kindly Asking your Advice, Because I Really Need to do a 2" Front Lift but as Cheaper and Easier as it could be, without Sacrificing the Subie's Safety + Alignment. Please, Help me... Any Advice will be very Welcome! Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.
  25. Dear Friends: As some of you already Know, I have Two Subaru Wagons, my "Everyday Warrior" is the White, Weberized EA82 that is always with me as daily driver; the other is the Yellow ER27 Engined one that is my "Weekend Warrior" and it usually stays with my Parents at my HomeTown. I Work Very Far Away from Home. So my Dad Drives that Yellow ER27 Subie and I Choosed the EA82 because is way more Reliable. Last Saturday I Received Bad News: my Uncle Borrowed my Dad's Subie (the Yellow 2.7 one) to do an errand; while he was cruising in a two way Road, approaching a curve, he just Saw coming a School Bus on the other way, at the same time being Passed by a Medium sized cab-forward Truck, in Direct Collision Course with him! The Truck Driver Tried to Stop but the Tires Locked and went to the Open side of the Curve, so my uncle tried to do everything possible to Stop the car, while steer away but the 2.7 Wagon had a Direct Front impact ... ... Now my Uncle is Better, he had a big Head Hit on the Windshield's Pillar but the Safety Belt Held him Enough to not allow his Stomach to hit the Steerin' Wheel... I asked Dad about my Subie ... ... Considering all the adaption works done during such weird Engine Swap, and that the ER27 Engine is designed to Hold itself to the Front in a much longer engine bay than the Wagon's one, so we welded some sort of "Arm" for it, my Dad said that the Welded Arm point was the worst affected area because it received the Truck's Bumper Direct Hit... Long story Short: he said that the Front Bumper got Smashed in, Both Headlamps and Turn Signals are Broken and left useless, the Hood cover is Damaged, the said front arm was Broken and thus meant a Broken Engine Block; and all the Belts & Pulleys are Smashed to the Front, the external Belts are Bursted and the Timing Belt Covers, tensioners and Belts are damaged too, beside more damage that Couldn't be seen for now but you can imagine for sure... I Want to Go to see my Uncle and the Car's Damage. I want to See if I Can Repair it Somehow ... but I Can not Leave my Job for enough time to Go to my Parents' HomeTown (it takes a Whole Day to Go and a Whole Day to Come because it is a Coast to Coast Voyage) I'm asking my Vacation time to my Boss, Maybe next December... For me, it is So Sad, because too many Time, Work, Effort and Money went on my 2.7 Project since 1999 when everything Started ... You Might Laugh but let me Tell you that I even Cried... ...I am Feeling So Sad... People in my Country Drive Very, Very Bad, Like Crazy. Kind Regards.
×