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Showing results for tags 'leak'.
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Hey everyone, I just bought my first subaru a few weeks ago. Its a 99 legacy sedan L sedan. So far I like the car, I think I lucked out getting a 99 since its the base model but I still have the sunroof/spoiler/alloy wheels combo. Its a 5 speed standard too which is fun since I spent the winter in an automatic jeep cherokee. I paid $800 for the car which has 155,000 miles on it. When I bought the car the man who owned it told me the check engine light was on for a front 02 sensor. When I had the codes checked it turned out it had codes for front 02 as well as a knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor and it seems to be running more smoothly already. My main question and motivation for posting this thread is this: When I jacked the car up to change the oxygen sensor, the source of my exhaust leak became obvious. I have a fairly significant leak coming from where the header meets the manifold. It looks like the flange is pretty well rusted out. Is it possible that this leak before the 02 sensor could be causing the code? I was thinking of replacing the sensor to see if it would clear the light, but I feel like that might be a waste of time since the leak might be the reason for the code. I was thinking of ordering a replacement header, which runs about 140 bucks from advance auto in town, but they'd have to order it anyway so I'm looking around a bit for better prices. Should I replace the header & o2? or just one or the other? -
I have a new 2015 Legacy (premium Trim). So far I am pretty satisfied with the way it handles. Actually pretty decent for a 2.5 not turbocharged. (I had a Mazdaspeed 6 that I traded in for the legacy) Too many tickets. I like the AWD and it has the comfort and room I was looking for. So far so good. BUT... I do have one issue right now. When it rains or I wash it, both the driver and passenger front door to window seals leak. I don't know about the rear doors. Became so frustrated with the front I didn't Investigate any further. I took it to the dealer and was told all is normal and that weep holes are in bottom of door to allow water to escape. But honestly, when water gets on the window, you can hear it drop down into the door as if I left a faucet not completely turned off with a very fast and excessive (in my opinion) amount of dripping. I understand some water may get down in the door and that is the reason for the "weep holes" but I never had this issue with any other vehicle I owned. I am concerned that whatever water does not escape will eventually cause problems. Sorry this is sooooo long. Does anyone out there know if this is normal and if so is it a design flaw and is there a possible fix..... Thanks In Advance -
I noticed a lot of water in cargo area rear quarter wells. I removed the rear interior panels and washer unit. I see a drip and looking up under the wells see it is coming from the plastic press in fasteners that hold the black ABS plastic trim under the rear panel windows. That is crazy. the window is dry all around, this is a hole through the rear quarter. There is no rust it just drips down the expanding plastic trim thing. Looked further and all 4 on each side leaking although not as bad. I managed to cap the bad leak with 1/4 inch thread protector cap filled with LEXEL sealant but can not reach all. The problem I have is how do you remove the exterior trim around cargo windows. For that matter what is best way for all the window/side trim to be removed? There is a lot of plastic on GL that was omitted on my 93 parts car. I think later model trim was bolted in, access from interior. looking for manual now any help would be appreciated. -
Ok so my 1984 Wagon standard tranny is leaking a fair amount, (about two to three tablespoons every 24hrs i would guess) all the fluid is collecting around/on the drain plug and then it drips onto the exhaust pipe below. I have been regualry checking the dipstick and it is still saying its full, (I just redid the fluid) so thats a good thing. So far I have added STOPLEAK to combat the leaking but just in case that doesnt clear it up in the next few days does anyone else have any experience with these trannys and what to do when they leak?
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Currently in the process of pulling my diff to weld it, and I removed the driveshaft and oil came pouring out. Didn't know if this is supposed to happen? Didn't happen on my impreza when I did the clutch -
I bought a 1998 Subaru Legacy Brighton a few weeks ago needing "a clutch and an oil change." While it does need both, there is also an oil leak i cannot trace. My entire underside was oil on it, but the drip is dripping off of the oil pan, where most of the oil is coated on. I think it's either the plug/plug seal, the gasket, or the oil pan itself. If i replace that, i would do all of those, but i wanted to know if there are any other possibilites for issues before i invest in that. Here's the leak at the oil pan:
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Yesterday -finally- I pulled the engine on a new-to-me 2001 legacy. There are leaks everywhere -including head gaskets, apparently- but the one concerning me right now is -I believe- through the rear crank seal (see picture). I've read here -numerous times- not to touch it because of the difficulty installing the new one, but it would be ridiculous to reinstall the engine with a know leak. So... is this a rear main seal leak that needs to be adressed, or not? Also: the wrist pin cover on the left seems to be in good condition. Should I replace the o'ring preemptively? Merci beaucoup!
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I have a recently bought 2006 Subaru Impreza and today it started leaking a thick green slime like fluid around the CV boot. Also, it is a manual and when the clutch is disengaged there is a screeching metal grinding sound that just started since I noticed the leak. -
Im looking to see if anyone has any awesome ways of repairing or re-sealing the gaskets on my t tops for my 86 brat. its seems they are leaking through the latch on the outer side. one on the locking latch as well in the middle. Id assume i could probably open them up and put sealant in there. but before i do that i am looking for the best ways to do it. -
Last September discovered head gasket leak. Tried to plug with "Alumaseal Stopleak." (Stupid idea)! Problem persisted. Three weeks later I flushed cooling system & tried to plug leak with "Bar's Leak Head Gasket Repair." Leak seemed plugged, but 8 months later engine overheated & radiator coolant was discovered to be way too low. Replaced coolant, kept radiator filled on inspection. Ten days ago added Subaru Cooling System Conditioner. Coolant began backing up into coolant reservoir, nearly filling it to the top every 75 miles, with foam floating near the top. Five days ago tried using "BAR'S LEAKS Head Gasket Repair." Looked good! No steam or water exiting tailpipe, and level of water in coolant reservoir remained steady — BUT — was only able to get 4 quarts of fluid into radiator! Engine now overheats in 15 minutes. Removed thermostat — no change. Top radiator hose hot, bottom hose cold. My guess — I plugged radiator with all the gunk I poured in. Can I flush that crap out with some sort of commercial additive, or should I just get a new radiator? -
Okay, so about two weeks I swapped my EA82's longblock. It came with a brand new water pump. The first day, I noticed some coolant loss, but it was a combination of bleeding the system, letting coolant pump through every hose, and I didn't fill up the overflow tank. By the second day, she was holding coolant nicely. About a week later, I notice the temp gauge is reading a bit higher than normal (not overheating though). Up until then, I noticed no coolant loss, and I was checking it every day. However, the radiator went dry and there was no coolant in the overflow tank. I noticed no visible leaks. Filled her up and wanted to double check the coolant to make sure. Wasn't noticing any problems, until I turned the car off when I got to work today. As always, I look back at my car when I walk away, haha. But this time, I noticed coolant was dripping pretty fast out the bottom of the car. I crawl underneath, and find it's dripping from the oil pan onto the skidplate onto the ground. Pop the hood, and notice no visible leaks. Completely dry of coolant, but yet it's still dripping out onto the ground. I had to clock on, so I left the car sitting. Nine hours later, I need to get home. First thing I did was adjust the metal pipe that fits in between the driver side radiator hose and the water pump. Adjusted it so it sits better on the water pump. I start adding some coolant, and it starts dripping out the bottom again. Again, no visible leaks. Luckily, I only live 5 minutes from work, so I was able to drive it home. Got home right as the temp gauge reached its normal readings, so it didn't overheat. Turned the car off, and noticed smoke coming out of the grill. Pop the hood and find coolant sprayed around the water pump. At this point, it is NOT dripping coolant on the ground. So anyways, anyone have tips? I searched topics on water pumps, but there aren't many threads about it. Best solution I could find is that new water pumps will do this, especially if there's debris in the cooling system, and it'll eventually fix itself. I can do some work in the morning, but should I just run the car a bit more and see if it fixes it? Oh, I forgot to mention that I've noticed no other problems. No overheating, no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, etc. Here is video of it dripping out, and what happened when I got home: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs_l8KwI0I4&list=PLWKW712Na2Z5uYMhUIrlkcgGSaNQ8ozGA&index=1 Thanks for any help! 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 (swapped exactly 400 miles ago, has 116K on the motor, new water pump, longblock)
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Okay, So I ventured out and purchased a 2001 forester with a new trans and rebuilt engine (still slaps ) The guys who rebuilt it arn't exactly subaru mechanics, but anyhow I drove it in the rain and after about ten minutes, I noticed condensation and water on the floorboard. When I got home I found an inch of water in the back seat area floor board/ drivers side. I found no holes or significant rust underneath. I am missing the plastic cover for under the engine, could this be causing the water issue? Chris W. Also any know of a brush guard that will fit the 01 forester? -
92 Loyale with 173000 miles. This past weekend I finally attempted to reseal badly leaking power steering pump. I did not know how to treat a copper gasket inside, so I applied an anaerobic sealant to it, and assembled everything back. The pump is still leaking and I cannot find the source. I did not change o-rings, since based on my experience, aftermarket stuff works much worse than the original one. It looks like the leak is coming from underneath. So I blame the copper gasket. This weekend I plan to take everything apart again, but still want to be sure that I do everything right this time. Should I replace this gasket with a cardboard or something similar? Any advice? Regards, SaM
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Hey all, first time using this forum. I have a 2005 Legacy L, 150K with various problems, but runs great. There is a minor oily fluid leak dripping from the jack-up plate behind the oil tank. I took a close look and noticed that the steering boots are broken which is right above the jack-up plate. Could this have anything to do with the leak? I have a feeling you are going to tell me I have to get the whole rack replaced. It has been slowly leaking (one drip per day) for 6 months and I haven't noticed any drop in oil or PS fluid levels and the car runs fine. One of the axle boots is also broken. I also have a gas smell on the interior when I turn the heat on and the heat is super slow to get started. AC is also broken and a recharge didn't work. Not too concerned about these though. I love my car and would appreciate all helpful positive responses.
