Crazyeights

https://swayaway.com/

Another option is the fuel pump inertia (or impact) switch used on older 90's Ford products. They almost never fail so the junkyards are full of them for cheap. Grab the connector with it. It is a simple 2 wire hook up.

@idosubaru When you buy a JDM engine do you do the head gaskets before installing it?

You might try an EA82 pump as I think it's possible that only the mounting bracket is different between the EA82 and EA81T pumps. It's worth a look anyway. I have both here so I'll compare them and get back to you if I can find them in storage.

I was able to buy that valve from the dealer a few years ago when I did the heater core on my '83 and I'm glad I did. Your right though it was pricey. You might be able to bypass it and run a different heater control valve out under the hood. Just be careful as those hoses run right down by your legs inside. You don't want to get burned by scalding hot antifreeze when driving down the road if something fails.

Thank you for this thread. I just ordered some of these.

I think using the EA71 is a great idea. You should be able to give it a little boost with a carb and still get great mileage too.

Try filling up the radiator and pressure testing the cooling system. If you don't have a pressure tester and can't borrow one try running the car at idle with the radiator full and the cap on. Watch for any leaks as the pressure starts to build up in the cooling system.

It has been my experience that it only takes 1 fault code to turn on 3 different warning lights on some of the newer cars. I have seen this on newer Hondas and Subarus. I think you'll need a code reader to find out what's up. Harbor Freight has a scan tool that does ABS and OBD II.

That sounds great, Thanks

Now that you mention it I have that big iron monster but it is the EA82 V-Belt design. I wonder if it's the same bracket as the Spyder one. Hmmm...

Awesome

I have the following Spyder setup from a donor 1987 XT 1.8 EA82 non-ac car. I also have the heads, cams, and cam towers from the same car - not pictured here. I want to add AC to this engine to match the car it's going in. The compressor with v-ribbed pulley is still available from Rock Auto. What do I need for brackets to add AC to this setup? I'm guessing that the alternator bracket in the picture isn't the same as the AC version. Does anyone have 'said brackets' laying around unused or maybe a photo of a Spyder engine with AC?

Congrats! XT6 radiators are NOT easy to find.

When I did my swap I needed the EA81 radius arm plates from a manual trans car too. I think the manual trans cross-member bolts to this and the little mounting "ears" are not on the automatic ones. Search for "Jerry's cross-member kit" if using a 5MT.

@GD So if I understand you correctly the best recipe is a complete EJ25D with 00 - 04 pistons?

Looks great! Like those wheels too

@DaveT No wonder I've never had any luck with that method

I was going to suggest a dental pick. Short of that you might have to remove the lock cylinder and open it up on the bench.

It looks like it might be part of the condenser.

Could be a bad spot in the TPS also if it's SPFI. IMHO they seem to fail at 250k miles or so.

Congratulations! It looks great

Does the distributor actually turn when you crank it over? The reason I ask is because I worked on a Brat EA81 recently that had the distributor drive gear on the crank all chewed up. This caused a no start - no spark situation.