lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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What CEL code are you getting? Cutting wires is never a good idea! Most engine sensors are very low voltage and any corrosion or poor connections can set a code. When the engine detects Knocks, it retards the timing to prevent knocks and thus the loss of performance. 5-30 oil is recommended for most Subaru's. Since this started after the oil change, you might want to start there. New Oil and a Subaru filter are way less than you've spent in parts and time. -
Swap to Disk Brakes. I have everything you need $200 + shipping from CO 80919
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If the cleaner does not fix it, you can clean the resister with a light abrasive. There are two units, one on the each side of the tank.
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does it do the same thing if you shift it manually, 1, 2 ,3 D?
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Yes, Subaru parts
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I would not trust the JB weld fix. The IAC or Throttle body are easy to come by. Heck for $20 shipped I'd send you both.
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Get the CEL Codes first. Then apply the suggestions above as indicated by the code.
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Check nasioc.com. You may find more information there. Most USMB folks are Lifting their Subarus.
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How's the reset of the system. I have lots of good Colorado dual port header pipes. $60 shipped to a work/business address.
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I've gotten some off Ebay, it was a long time ago. I've also used the old plastic and mounted in a sealed low beam lights. You have to cut out some of the back plastic but they will go in.
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NGK copper plugs and plug wires!
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Search the code, there is lots of good information hear and at the outback form. CarDoc has a very extensive article on it. You did the right thing, start with the easy stuff first: - Fuel Filter - NGK plugs and plug wires if needed - Check for air and vac leaks
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Drive shaft most likely, Were the U-joints checked, free movement? Did you make sure the front and rear diff were the same ratios?
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They will be OK, did you mark the rotation?
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Coils usually do not fail. If you want a spare or two, I have a stack of them from the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps. $20 shipped HG are easy to figure out, Check to make sure the radiator itself is full when cold Check the Over flow bottle for black oily stuff Larry
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Interesting so they actually make a HG just for this application?
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Is the AT light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so you have a trans fault. The TCM hardly ever fail more likely an input. Throttle position sensor...
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So you put a socket on the front crank pulley with the car in neutral and you can not turn the engine over? If that is the case I'd drain the oil and see if you have part numbers in there. You could also pull the plugs and then try it.
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Junk yard would be the fastest. There are several different configurations on Brakes. The nice thing about Subaru's as they are Lego's for the most part so you can bolt up pretty much any matching brake set. Lot's of folks have went to larger WRX Brakes, which would bolt right to your Impreza. As far as the pin, yes I have seen your configuration and if I was home could pull a dozen out of my 5 gal bolt buckets. That will not help you get back on the road but the junk yard will.
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Does the engine turn freely by hand? If so you can inspect the complete flywheel Have you checked the voltage at the Battery and Starter under load? Does it make a difference if you put it in neutral?
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I'd at least flush the brake system and inspect the pads. How many miles on the car? You may have boiled the brake fluid in that caliper. An inspection will tell you if anything is out of kilter. Larry
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Can you drill from the bottom? Start small and work up until you can pop the head off the bolt
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Get a 6 point wrench and put it over the nut and then weld the wrench to the frame. You could JB weld or tack the nut to the wrench so it would stay in place if you ever had to pull it again.
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Yes no flashing AT light. Pan was not dented Good Clean Fluid Shifts fine if I keep the RPM low Shifts fine if I manually shift gears I'm going to try to find a TCU from a trans with the newer inhibitor switch and see if that does not take care of the problem, but that will not be for a few weeks. Darn work is getting in the way of Subaru fun.
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Better but not fixed. The shifting is on as hard and it now shifts well up to 4K. I think I may have found the problem. The Inhibitor that is on the trans I installed has 4 mounting bolts. The Inhibitor that is on the original trans has 3 mounting bolts so there may be some difference. I thought the transmission numbers were the same, but there may be some differences. Trans Experts, any ideas? Can I find the correct ECU and swap it in or do I need to swap the trans?
