Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Brat'.
-
Greetings to the group, I've been a 'lurker' for a long time and keep watching the threads about EJ22 updates. I have a 83 EA81 BRat, which I dearly love. It is not a daily driver, but when it is taken out, it is often for a long distance...two or three hundred miles each way. I am planning to do some minor rust removal and paint work; but I just ran across a local 95 Legacy 2.2 4WD manual transmission, with 209K miles, that has some well bent sheet metal. It is being sold as a parts car. It is all there, having just been towed to the owners home after the accident. I have only seen pictures at this point. They are asking $500 for the whole thing. I was not planning on this project, but the opportunity to get a whole donor, close to home, has arrived. As I understand, I will either need to use an adapter plate to retain my 4-spd D/R tranny, or forgo the D/R and use the non D/R 5-speed tranny from the donor chassis. Is this correct, or is there another tranny option I also understand I will need to do a lot of wiring modifications to accommodate the FI computer and different ingition system. The owner says the car does have some minor oil leaks, (with 200+ K on it I'm not surprised) but that it was running just fine prior to the accident. The major damage is to the right front suspension. If it was not for the broken strut and bend lower A-arm, it looks like it could have been driven home. Am I overlooking anything serious? Any major or minor "GOTCHA'S" I am going to look at the car this evening. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Rod J -
Was there ever a Canadian model Gen1 Subaru Brat? I've been looking for one for the past year but none at all have shown up. Just across the border in Washington and Oregon however there's always a couple listed on CL which has lead me to wonder if it was ever officially released up here. Does anybody here know? If it was, I'd wait a while longer as I'd like to have one with the gauges in KM and not miles. -
I have a '78 GF that I'm currently in the process of restoring from having an engine fire, and the wiring harness was so far gone I didn't think it was worth saving. Long story short, it's got a new wiring harness from a 1978 BRAT, and there are a couple of plugs that don't line up. There's one that I feel I could make work pretty easily in the BRAT harness that runs back to the brake lights of the car, but the one that is causing issue is (and forgive me for lack of the proper technical term) the long black plug-in that is 2 rows high and 15 or so across... With the BRAT harness for the dash, it leaves that end of the plug clear on the other, wrong side of the car where the other end (connected to the original harness that runs through the rest of the car) is sitting. I don't know of a way to get this to adapt offhand without cutting and splicing in some fashion all those wires (which I really don't see myself doing) and I was wondering if anyone had a harness (the one that goes through the dash, and into the engine bay) they would be able to sell me. Shipping isn't an issue...if you've got a harness I'll pay whatever shipping and then some for gratitude. I hope this explaination hasn't been TOO confusing to read...and any advice that may help me be able to still use the dash wiring harness from the brat would be more than appreciated. Thanks, Jim -
A few weeks ago I noticed a coolant leak, and tracked it down to an intake manifold gasket -- no problem, just pull the manifold and replace the gasket (or so I thought). I wound up busting a stuck bolt, and had to drill it out, unfortunately I managed to drill through a head mounting stud in the process -- I didn't notice this, however, until I tried to turn the engine over and wound up filling my cylinders with coolant. Now, I need to replace a stud, and probably the head as well -- I put a small divot in the bottom of the thru-hole while drilling through the stud, I assume that it is this combination of busted stud, plus divot, that led to coolant in the cylinder. Does anyone have any advice, or a head (left side, ea81) they can sell me? I'm in Albuquerque, NM
-
My CV axle nut on my 85 brat constantly comes loose on the front driver side wheel and makes my brakes grind when I press on them. I have a cotter pin it, its the one that came with them when i purchased the axles. I have no clue whats causing it to come loose or how to fix it. It comes loose every few days. Anybody know why or how i can solve this problem? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bcoming+%2Bloose This thread seems to be close to same symptoms of what mines doing, except for the shearing and other fun stuff. i just need this to keep me going for a few more weeks until i can get my other brat running.
-
Hi, of so ive been doing work on my 1982 subaru brat like cutting out rust and pulling the front end out since it has been in a front end collision . (carfax needed) lol. So after pulling the frame and paint and such i would like to build the suspension for baja style off roading. I was reading that body lifts limit the amount of down travel so i want to stay away from that. Soooooooo, im pretty sure many of you guys have pondered this idea and i think ive seen a white gl wagon with long travel shocks in the rear but not up front. I know this will be a very involved process and will take a lot of work and everything will have to be custom fabb'ed but still would be a cool idea or possibility. My buddy built his own suzuki samuri using toyota solid axels and was telling my that i could make custom long travel a arms and it would be , also that i could use coilovers up front but how to get more down travel up front? THe rear is east to get the down travel but the front is only like 3 or 4 inches than on jacks. I'm not really looking for a crazy lifted suspension (not body lift) or a down travel of like 12 inches but just more. Would this be remotely possible with the knowledge and custom fabrication or am i just plain crazy . Please post your opinions and yes i have searched this in the search bar but couldn't really find anything about the front other than people just saying there is nothing other than ranchero shocks available. Thanks guys! hopefully i can pull the frame straight then get it ready for rego . hasn't been registered in 8 years and doesnt have the pink slip. Yeah california! haha -
I'm thinking of doing a lift on my Brat (1983, so it's an EA81) and have three questions: 1. Is there anyone that makes a 3" lift kit for EA81? 2. How close can you get the tire to the wheel wells before they will hit once the suspension is compressed? (I measured 15" from hub center to the bottom of the fender. Without doing a lift, if I ran 28" tires, would they hit the wheel wells ever? Would I have to go smaller than 28" tires? In other words, would 1" between the tires and the fenders be enough distance to keep from hitting?) 3. I heard from AKghandi in a different topic that, "On an ea81 you have to drop the subframe when you lift it. Otherwise your cv axles will explode." What's this mean/is it valid?
-
Howdy, I am looking to put bigger wheels/tires on my stock 85 Brat. I wanted to get some ideas on the best way to do this. I do not know if this would work, but ideally- Id like to throw some 5 bolt 15" wheels on it. Would this mod be fairly simple or should I just look for some 14" 4 Bolt wheels and go from there. I understand that I may have to cut into the fender and I am OK with that. Any input would be greatly appreciated. As always, thanks! -Andrew
-
I have a good running EA81 subaru engine and a good working 5-speed dual range 4x4 4wd transmission with a brand new never used clutch. I was going to put this set up im my subaru brat but decided to go a diffrent route. Im selling this because im going to collage on March 3rd and I need it gone or it has to go to scrap. so im asking $200 OBO. thank you for your consideration. If you're intrested please call me at (541) 323-5000. I'm located in Bend Oregon. -
Hello everyone. I am looking to buy the air injection tubing (spider) for my 78' BRAT. When I took my motor out I discovered that one of the flares had broken off. I have a feeling it will be tough to re-flare the tube due to space for the compression fitting. Please let me know if you have one you are willing to part with or if you know anyone that has one. Thank you! -
I'm getting sick of the garbage aftermarket carpet that I bought a long time ago--it doesn't even fit because it isn't wide enough. So I want to just clean the heck out of my floor and coat with some sort of durable finish and then get rubber mats. With that said, I have two questions: What would be good to clean the floor with? (something strong enough to get the remnants of the old carpet with its adhesive and all) I don't want to coat it with just rhino liner type stuff on the inside, but I want something that is similar. I just don't want something that's so rough, something that will be easier to clean since it'll be on the interior. Is there something similar to bed liner that is smoother? (Or something that you guys know about that will suit my purposes better)
-
so i have a 1985 subaru GL hatchback, and the clutch blew. due to the variety of setups subaru made for that era, i have no idea which clutch to buy.its a ea81 with a 5 speed front wheel drive transmission
-
So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
-
1985 subaru gl and 1986 subaru brat gl
zmarrott posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So, i have a 1986 Brat GL that i recieved as a gift from in the family that is in depressingly sad condition. the engine runs, but has a phenominal time starting up, havent seen any problems with the tranny and 4 wheel. recently my mom was driving it and one wheel seized from a bad bearing(all 4 are since replaced), there is the all too common wheel well rust in the bed, both fenders and the hood are beyond repair and need to be replaced. drivers fender has a dent that interferes with the door and has rusted into its bent form, the passenger fender was attacked by a bear (not joking. both on my brat and my brothers outback legacy, the passenger fender got bit and bent out). and the hood has an odd bit of rust in the under frame of it. irrepairable, and i have no idea how it got there . interior is also in sad condition, but i dont need to type out annother paragraph on that. Now, in a random stroke of luck, i found a 1985 GL hatchback (2 wheel drive) that is the same generation body styling . and the even better thing about it; NO RUST . it lived in arizona all its life so it has the standard arizona car accessories such as; the awesome faded paint look, that is now a matte finish also. the oh, so, popular cracked dash and just overall rubber parts dry rotting. so my question is, just how much of the GL am i able to transplant into the brat? considdering the brat has been a New England car for most, if not all, of its life, i want to eliminate as much rust as possable. fenders and hood are a must, but do the doors match? windshield? i will upload pictures soon side note: i dont have access to my brat at the moment, due to it being on the opposite side of the country, but im going to get it this summer -
I have an '82 Brat that I picked up recently and started fixing up. While I was replacing the struts I found that the sway bar connector on the passenger side was hanging. I was considering removing the sway bar altogether and was curious if people run without front sway bars on Brats?
-
one stock set of rims from a late 70 wagon- $75 one set of somewhat rusty jackmans- $150 one set of good condition chrome rims off a loyale- $200 good set of headrests from a first gen brat- SOLD push bar for a first gen brat or wagon, rusty and slightly pitted but not bent- $50 i would really prefer not to have to ship rims, but if you figure out how i'm not dead set against it. -
Hey I'm selling or parting out my gen 1 BRAT. Add explains all. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4304702483.html
-
Has anyone ever seen i beam suspension on a subaru, i've looked around but have not seen anything please post some sweet pics if you have them
-
So I have a 1983 Brat that I have had a ton of work done on. It finally doesn't leak oil and it runs great. The EA81 in it only has a little over 150,000 miles on it, but all of the ports that have anything to do with the ERG system (or any other emissions control system) have been plugged with bolts and welded shut. The previous owner did all of that. I don't know if that has any relevance, but anytime the windows are down you can smell exhaust (at least I think it's exhaust) really really strongly. I can be going 70-80 mph on the freeway, but if the windows are down I can still smell exhaust. What could be causing this? Surely, although it is an old car, not all old cars smelled like this. Is there an exhaust leak somewhere between the outtake and the muffler?
-
I need both front axles and both rear out of a 78 brat... Mine are all making noise and whatnot. Used in good condition would be fine... Does anybody have any?
-
Okay... so i just swapped a low mileage ea71 and trans into my brat out of a 79 wagon, and put the old engine and trans into the wagon. thats all done, my problem is the distributors are different! the 79 is an electronic distributor and the 78 is not. the thing i want to know is, how do i make them run again? i cant figure it out... there are two wires that come out of the distributor cap on the 79, a blue and a red one i think, and when they were on the wagon the ran over the engine and plugged in by the firewall. on the brat, there is nowhere to plug them in. i was going to swap the coils and capacitors, but after tracing the wiring from the capacitor on the brat i found that i would have to basically swap the entire wiring harness... i guess my question is, how do you convert from running an old style distributor to an electronic one? somebody please help they are immobile until i get this fixed...
-
Just rebuilt my lower half of the engine and I foregot to mark my vaccum lines and I think some were off to begin with. Anyone have a diagram they can post to help me out. I have 1.6 l 1980 Brat. Thanks.
-
I would like to see all the swapped gen 1 out there. Doesn't look to be very many. Prove me wrong.
-
Subaru brat headrests from my 78' sell them for 50 shipped. Fairly mint
-
First post, please be kind. Right so I've developed a great interest in the Subaru Brat and am dead set in getting one and putting it through some major modifications. Such as putting the body on top a WRX drivetrain with the subframes then lifting it using Forester struts. Now I want a Gen 1 GL Brat because I love how it looks with it's BMW-esque headlights and subtle body lines. I thought that Gen 1's were available with t-tops however to my dismay I've found out that they aren't. Now the t-tops are half the reason why I've wanted a brat in the first place. All of my cars have t-tops... gotta love them t-tops So! My question is how difficult would it be or if it is even REMOTELY possible to put the Gen 2 t-tops on to the Gen 1? Are the roofs similar enough that I can just chop the roof off a Gen 2 and put it onto a Gen 1 or are the windshields and windows a different shape? If the glass will be a problem, then would it be possible to leave just the frames around the windshield and doors and put in the Gen 2 roof/t-tops? If none if that is possible then... how about swapping/grafting the body panels of the Gen 1 on to the Gen 2 frame... or would that best choice from the get go? To close, I repair, restore, and modify cars from mechanical to body to paint for a living and I love it. So no amount of wrenching, cutting, welding, etc is daunting to me. And thanks for taking the time to lend your knowledge!
