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Showing results for tags 'Ea81'.
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Hi guys Have inherited a 1990 brumby from my grandfather who passed last november. I absolutely have fallen head over heals in love with it. The 'brumble beast' had done 305 000 kms and has bugger all rust in it. Engine has been tinkered with by subaru 'specialists'. Ive noticed all the hitachi carb haters out there and I must say I love them! I have no mechanical experience at all but am very mechanically minded. I am determined to keep the hitachi however doing away with all the emissions garb. You guys have great pics etc however I'm in Australia and everything is backwards lol. Anyhow I'll post some pics and your guidance would be fab! Zeb -
On my my way home from Mexico I found this guy on the side of the road... So i drove it back it back to Canada! let the fun begin. the good: almost everthing is there, jump sets and everything. No real body damage and no bad body rust from what I can tell. runs! Shifts pretty good(4spd) the bad: Torn cv’s lots of caked oil, Mexican wiring oil sender dosnt work driver side strut top is completely torn(found this once I got it home) leakying front main seal bad rad fan Truck bed leaks into cabin(when it rains) Plan: since I’ve been building my crazy off road poptop gl wagon, I thought it’d make this more of a daily driver. bushings upgrades 2 inch lift 215/75/15 Baja bfg on yota drilled 6 lug. camber/caster plates longer ish dual rate suspension Electric swap?!?!
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Warm engine, 1,000 rpm, 50+ psi, 4,000rpm, about 30 psi oil pressure. This seems bass ackwards! Is it a problem? -
I installed a new Spanish Webber on my 83 GL two years ago and it ran great for a while. But around 6 months ago it started stalling when I turn left with the clutch pushed in. I recently put in a fuel pressure reg when it started flooding but I am still having the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread. but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread. This is T-bone T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is the old EA 81 rear setup. Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem. Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. IMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for. So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback. Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff. Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use. But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure. IMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup. For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks. IMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the projected "full stuffed" point. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the forward mounting of the subframe. Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks) IMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting near ride height with wheels on. IMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is resting on it's own shocks. Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet. Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built. IMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
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Hi folks, So I'm planning a road trip in my BRAT in a few weeks, and decided to do a little preventative maintenance. Had a messy oil leak and a some ticking, so I decided to replace seals and the paper gasket on the oil pump. I think we all know what happens when you remove an oil pump on these engines... Now I'm in the market for a new (I wish) or used pump. I've found two new and one used one in Greece (car.gr), 12 new in Columbia (mercadolibre.com.co) and one new one in Mexico. There are a couple of shady looking websites (sabrmarket.xyz; nsbamall.xyz) that claim to have them new, but don't respond to emails. I've tried just about every salvage yard I can find in the PNW and I'm coming up blank... Does anyone have a specific salvage yard that they know has one? Or maybe you'd be willing to part with one yourself? It's been three weeks of scouring the internet and I've exhausted every option I can think of. Next step is to see if a skilled machinist/welder friend of mine can weld it back together and then mill off the weld material. TL;DR: If anyone has an EA81 oil pump available (in any condition other than cracked) I would pay handsomely for it.
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I'm looking at this oil leak I have. Nothing major but it leaves a spot on the driveway and cruds up my engine bay (rust protection right?). The leak seems to be coming from behind the crank pulley and dripping down the front. It does leave some residue on the underside of the air filter housing. Anyone have any tips, tricks, videos, diagrams or such before I dive into this? -
Hey guys an introduction first. As of 3 weeks ago I'm the new owner of the Desert Fox! 1984 Subaru DL Wagon. I just replaced the throttle (accelerator) cable as it was binding up during the beginning of the pedal travel. Heres what happened afterwards. Let sit for about 30 minutes because the engine had probably flooded from me fiddling with the throttle getting the new cable on. Went out and started it without pumping the pedal at all. Car started but idled high, revved it up. Let it run a minute. Blipped the pedal and idle dropped down. I shut the car off. Started it again without pumping the pedal at all and it idled high. Let it run for a minute again. Blipped the throttle and it dropped down again. I shut it off. Pumped the pedal to the floor once, released, and started it. Idled high again. Blipped the pedal and it stayed where it was as far as idling. Let it run for a bit. Shut it down. Got out and adjusted the nuts on the cable sheath. Thinking that might have something to do with it? Tried to start without touching pedal. No start. Feathered the pedal as I cranked. No start. Fully depressed pedal and released. No start. Fully depressed pedal 3 times and released. No start. Adjusted the cable sheath nuts back to where they were originally. My normal starting process is pedal to the floor once and release and it starts right up. Even when is 20°F out its 30 today. Same thing with the no start. I'm going to let it sit overnight and try it tomorrow unless anyone has an idea.
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22 degrees forecast for when I plan to start my ‘84 Webered EA81. I have never started this carb in weather so cold. 500 miles from home, with an old battery, also. Any suggestions for a cold weather start?
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Two electrical connectors on my factory air conditioning drier. What is their function ?
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So I got myself a 1994 Subaru Brat (RHD) with an EA81 engine and in the process of swapping in a Legacy Twin Turbo.. :-) Would any of you fine people have a wiring diagram for the Brat (Is it the same as the 1800 gl?) Thanks in advance John
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I have a 1985 Subaru Brat 3-speed automatic. My brakes were trash and squealed really bad so I replaced the pads and rotors and had to replace the calipers too because the Piston wouldn't go back in. Got those installed and went to bleed the brakes and the pedal goes straight to the floor. It doesn't build any pressure at all. I attempted to bleed the brakes anyway but like I said it doesn't build pressure and if you pump in a bunch of times in a hole to the floor and open the bleeder valve brake fluid just dribbles out. Figured I somehow messed up the brake master cylinder so I got a new one and installed it and no change at all. I bled the master cylinder and the calipers multiple times as well and it still just dribbles out. I know brake booster uses vacuum, so I think it has something to do with that because, when I hit the brake pedal air gets sucked into the carburetor. Also when the vehicle is running if I hit the brake it stutters and almost dies. I don't see any drips or anything from the brake lines, calipers, or MC. Any ideas what could be wrong? Do I need a new brake booster? I'm honestly kind of stumped.
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Hello again. I ha e a ea81 1.8 engine sitting in my driveway. I removed this engine because i could not get cylinders 2 and 4 to fire. I did replace the engine head gaskets and cleaned the valves in headers and put it back together. When i installed engine back in car i was not able to get it to fire correctly. I have new wires spark plugs rotor and cap and nogo. I did pull the wires from cylinders 2 and 4 and did see a spark in them. Obly reason i know these two cylinders are not working is because the engine will have a terrible shake to it and by plasing my hand below the header were exhaust goes only one side was hot. Could it be that i have a bad distributor even tho i see sparks coming from wires 2 and 4? Thanks.
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Hi all, thanks in advance for any tips you can offer. I’m not an experienced auto mechanic, but I can follow directions, work with tools, etc. I have a 1984 GL wagon, 4sp w dual range 4wd, 180k miles, that I acquired from a neighbor for cheap. It’s somewhat beat up, but I really like it- if you’re here I’m sure you understand the appeal. I’m lucky enough to live in Portland so Subaru parts and shops are relatively plentiful. I am willing to spend a little more than is rational, but don’t want to get too carried away. The car came to me with a bad engine knock. I tore the motor down and found the #2 rod bearing was very dead. Crank and cam look pretty bad, I’m guessing they’re irreparable, and there were bits of bearing in the oil pan. The block looks good, considering- a couple of the main bearings were a bit beat up, but didn’t seem to have spun or otherwise marred their seats. I don’t have the experience to do the ej swap, nor is the car clean enough to put that kind of money into. My initial plan was to find a used ea81 to plunk in there, but I’m not having much luck finding a viable runner. Now I’m wondering how these engines do after being rebuilt after rod bearing failure. Is it even worth looking into sourcing parts and having the block bored/decked? If I’m going to go to all the trouble, should I just start with a $300 junkyard engine that probably didn’t have as big a problem as mine did? The other option I see is to sell off the Weber and other decent parts for about what I have into the car, and start over with a different car. I really like the ea81 wagons and definitely want one, and am not afraid of doing some work to make one go. What do you recommend I do? Thanks again!
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Hi, this is my first post to USMB. My current project is an 83 Brat, 131k miles, sat for the last 10-15 years in Texas, probably in the direct sun. The oil pressure gauge shows nominal pressure when the engine is cold. Over the first 10 minutes of running, the oil pressure eventually drops to zero as the temperature comes up. Here's what I have tried: - drain the oil looking for sludge; fill with oil and sludge remover and run 10 minutes; fill again with new filter - switch to 20W-50 Didn't find any sludge. The heavier oil helps a little (I think), but still the pressure goes all the way down to zero. I'm convinced that the oil pump is working, else I should see zero pressure when the engine is cold. I could replace the oil pressure sending unit, but why would the sending unit malfunction only when warm? Has anyone else had this problem?
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1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
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I have a bent valve in an 85 Brat A/T. I want to replace it but I can't find any place that specifically has the Large valve. Rock Auto says it has it but i looked and the 82 Brat in their catalog uses the same valve part number. And correct me if I'm wrong but pre 84 had smaller valves... I just don't want to buy it pull the head and find out its the wrong one.
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I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
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Blast, double post. Moderator, please delete.
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Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344 -
I have an 85 brat that I bought a gasket kit for. When I replace the head gaskets I accidentally adjusted one of the valves. Total stupidity on my part but nothing I can do about it now. I tried to fix it by using the adjustments . 01 for the intake and .014 for the exhaust. I didn't realize at the time that mine wasn't the solid lifters but the hydraulic ones. I know now they're the hydraulic ones because they have the little locks for the nuts. Now that the engine is back together and ready to start it runs terribly and ticks. I haven't ran it more than 30 seconds because I figured what I did. So my question is what do I adjust the valves to for the hydraulic ones?
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Hey qwanted to post a link to my last wheelin trip to browns camp. My camera batteries died (like wouldn't charge died) so I had to rely on others to film. My buddies wife got this one on one of the hairier sections of firebreak 5 at browns camp OR. Facebook video....sorry to those that don't FB https://www.facebook.com/Unnefer.and.Iset/videos/vb.100000313806507/1829128547107588/?type=2&video_source=user_video_tab
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I have an 85 Brat that's a 3AT that I've almost finished putting back together after head gasket replacement. I got a new radiator off of Rock Auto. My question is is there a difference between the radiator in Auto and manual or are they the same. It looks like my OEM one except the radiator cap hole is bigger and the inside of the reservoir looks different. I'm making sure it still works as the auto trans cooler. I have pics if needed. Link to radiator: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1985,brat,1.8l+h4,1267747,cooling+system,radiator,2172
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Looks like the two sides could be joined with bolts. Repair, or replace?
