Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Loyale'.
-
hey everyone! just having an issue with my 94 loyale. I recently replaced the distributor cap and I will be installing new spark plugs and wires, however when driving, my car will have a very unsteady idle or even drop so low that it will die altogether. i have to feather the gas just to keep it running while its on the road and if i dont it will stall out and ill have to start it up again. I have sprayed around the lines for vacuum leaks and i have done research on wether its the fuel injector or maybe one of the sensors or the solenoid is stuck open. i am not sure where to go from here. I have a chiltons repair manual and have looked over what it could be, I would just like a bit more input and direction and hopes its not a big endeavor in both cost and time. thanks! -
Does anyone make stickers that could do 1970s style side graphics http://forzamotorsport.net/en-us/games/fm5/news/hma_3_6_14/ but for a newer generation, say, my 92 loyale? Maybe with the updated 4wd logo, or not? I have never seen this done but I think it would be awesome and I want it for my car.
-
Hello! My name is Corey and I live in Arvada Colorado and own a 94 Subaru Loyale Wagon and would like to beef it up. Get a lift on it maximize my engine power and upgrade the tranny/drive to allow for some off-roading and mudding. I invision a "mad max" style road warrior car and i wanna do it right but still holding on to some of my cash while i do it. if anyone has any information on how to: Lift by at least 4" Upgrade the current engine or suggest upgrade options Any information on what i need to do to ensure sufficient power for transfer case/drivetrain. I do have a second 88' Loyale I was going to use to cannibalize for parts which has everything in tact, just older. but again suggest what i can and cannot use from that for what I would like to do. thanks for checkin it out! - Corey
-
I was just thinking how cool it would be to somehow get my 1990 subaru loyale to be rwd but still have the pushbutton 4wd. is there any cheap reliable way of doing this, is it worth it? Your thoughts
-
Hey everybody, I just got a 1990 Subaru Loyale a few days ago (will post pictures soon), while driving the check engine light turned on. It turns out it is a ISC Solenoid Valve Fault. I'm just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and what you guys did to fix it. EDIT; my bad guys, i was looking at the wrong codes After looking at the correct codes the problem is in fact the Idle Air Control Valve or Circuit.
-
Hey yall, I have been looking For Subaru Loyales lately in my area. I recently found one with low miles for a decent price. BUT, its in Canada Im not sure if there are any rules for bringing used cars over the border into washington. If anybody could give me some advice it would help alot thanks It is a 1992 subaru loyale wagon.
-
I'm wanting to go with a more aggressive wheel and tire on my 92 Loyale, any recommendations? It's 4 lug and I didn't want to have to mess with modifying the hubs, are there any styles that will bolt right on?
-
I just bought a 1994 subaru loyale 4wd 5 speed.. It came with a parts car, 1993 loyale 1.8, but automatic tranny (the tranny is blown, hence its a parts car). However the parts car has a body in much much better shape (it doesnt have any of the typical subaru rust). My question is, is it possible to do a engine and tranny swap from the driver car to the parts car? I'm very mechanically inclined and it definitely looks doable, I'm just wondering if it will jive or not. Thanks for any help!! -
I hear talk of many 'how to' threads for a EA82 5 speed tranny to D/R 5 speed swap but I can't find them. I find random htreads asking questions but never any how to's. Where might they be located? Link? Thanks
- 8 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- D/R
- Dual range
- (and 4 more)
-
I just want some opinions here, my concern is through the roof. I am considering taking my 1990 Loyale wagon on a trip from Portland, Oregon to Gallipolis, Ohio, which is on the eastern side of the state. The trip is about 2600 miles, beginning on I-84, then moving onto I-80 and I-74. I'm a stranger to drives this far but if I do it, i'm not worried about lack of driving skill or anything like that. I'd maybe cruise a bit less than 500 miles a day until i got there. Who knows. What I AM worried about is ye olde ea82. Its a tough old gal, but it has given me trouble here and there, no surprises. I have a bit of an oil leak on the passenger side cam tower, which became pretty noticeable after cleaning the block. It's not enough so that I need to dump more oil in, in fact, I haven't noticed any oil loss whatsoever. What DOES go down the drain is some coolant, and I dont really know where it goes. Its not an absurd amount but, like i say, noticeable. The car drives like a champ for what it is, a yellow bellied ea82. However, I would kinda be up spoob creek with half a paddle if it blew up on the drive. I know my way around the engine bay no doubt, but thats not gonna save me if i throw a rod bearing or really cream the cam tower/head. Does anyone have experience with a trip like this in a "seasoned" ea82, or some insight they can give me? I would appreciate it greatly. I dont have much cash to save myself in the event of a mass failure. Is it worth trying? Car is a '90 Loyale wagon, optional 4wd, 5spd tranny. Thanks in advance guys. The car has been running pretty solid lately, it has had an electrical problem before but its fixed now. If spoob hits the fan, what kind of costs(jagged, rough estimates) can i expect to get this thing rebuilt? Any parts you see as impending doom-bringers? -
My EA82 wagon has a slight, random misfire. Recently, I've been pretty determined to find the solution. About 20,000 miles ago, I swapped the long block. Used my old distributor, but got new spark plugs (NGK BPR6ES-11), new spark plug wires (Import Direct 40975), new distributor cap (Import Direct 10-0199), and distributor rotor (Import Direct 12-0186). All parts I got from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Before starting the engine when I installed it, I accidentally hydrolocked it with coolant. I pulled the plugs and cleaned out the coolant. I also accidentally had two of the spark plug wires mixed up. But once I got it all sorted out, I was driving fine. This is when I first noticed the slight misfire. Flash forward to today: I've currently got new plugs (NGK BPR6EY-11) and new wires (NGK 9350) coming in the mail. My current spark plugs don't look abnormal. I think having NGK wires will make a big difference, but I have another issue. My distributor rotor seems to be making serious contact with the cap. There's virtually no up-and-down play in the shaft, nor side-to-side. There's some rotational play, but since it's supposed to be spinning, I don't see how that could cause it to do this. Could it be the wrong parts? What have you guys used for your cap & rotor? I figure what I'll do is grab another distributor from the junkyard. Get a new cap and rotor as well. Besides shaft play, how can I tell how good the distributor is? Is there a way to clean it once I get it home? I have a good feeling that this is what's causing my misfire, since my misfire seems to be very random. It's not necessarily on one cylinder, and it misfires at random times (once every 1-5 seconds).
-
This is a write-up on using the Rear Wiper Arm from a '09-14 Honda Fit. This is a direct bolt on upgrade! Parts Needed: Honda Fit Wiper Arm Part Number: 76720-TF0-003 Wiper Blade: Trico Exact Fit 16B Install Duration: 5 Minutes _____________________________________________________________________________________ First off a new genuine Wiper Arm assembly can be found on Ebay for $23 or less, usually free shipping! Most don't come with a Wiper blade as shown, but most parts houses will have the Trico Exact-Fit 16B which is no longer the J-hook style clip. Now once you have the Wiper Arm, remove your original one by removing the one 10mm nut behind the plastic cover, pull off the old Wiper arm (May need to jiggle as they tend to get stuck on the motor shaft) once off, remove the round plastic dust cover which covers the motor shaft and nut, this part will no longer be needed as the new Wiper arm covers that. You will then want to position the new Wiper arm so the Wiper blade will be Level with the Window Trim/Seal, once adjusted, apply the original 10mm nut and tighten down with mild force, the Shaft will press into the Beveled washer inside the new wiper arm and it will not slip under operation! Install the new Plastic nut cover provided with the Wiper arm and you're finished! The new wiper arm will press harder on the window for a cleaner, consistent wiping path. One of the best upgrades you can do for visibly. Enjoy, -Tom Note: This setup may also work on the EA81 Wagon and Hatchback. -
Someone in my area has a free factory deck from a 98 Outback. As far as size and wiring harness, is it a plug-in match to my 92 Loyale? -
Calling A/C techs... I had a theory about the problem, but I'd like to confer before proceeding. A/C system was working last 2 years, but now it only cycles for ~10 seconds, then shuts off until I cycle the A/C (or defrost) off/on. Does this every time, no matter how long I wait between A/C cycles. Belts are tight, no clutch slippage (that I can observe) and the engine DOES idle up when running (pulser is gapped to spec) Hooked up the R-12 gauge and there were the readings: Engine at EOT, system off: Low side: ~50 psi HIgh side: 55 psi System cycling: Low: drops to ~0 psi quickly High: raises to ~75-85 and holds After cycle: Low: raises to ~55-60 psi High: drops to ~60 psi I added less than 5oz of R12, but same result, only the high side raises slightly, but the low raises when the system is not cycling. Before I add (or maybe waste if the receiver/drier needs replaced) any more, I just wanted to confirm that it just might be low on R12 and the trinary switch is deactiviating due to low pressure.
-
I'm getting my car ready for a long cross-country drive (mostly cosmetic things and getting it to my standards) The biggest thing I have to do to it is repair the air conditioner system. Here's the deal: I got into an accident and destroyed my condenser coil that sits in front of the radiator and all of my R-12 coolant blew out. What I want to do is get a new condenser and convert the system over to R-134a instead of pulling R-12 out of old window air conditioners at the junk yard. There is a lack of parts that I need. My uncle tells me I'll need a dryer to clean all the moisture out of the open lines. And I also need a condenser coil. The online retailer that I've been going to for parts to my car does not carry condenser coils. There are 2 at my local auto parts junkyard, what is the consensus to using junkyard aircon parts? Would it even be worth it? Are there any condenser coils from other cars that would fit in my car with little to no modification? Like how certain Nissan Maxima alternators fit? Looking online the very few retailers that do carry those coils are asking way over $100 for them. How difficult is switching an old system over to 134a? Is it reliable? I don't expect it to reach negative 40 in the car on a 120 degree day. I'd like to know how much refrigerant oil to put into my OEM compressor, and are there any brands that I should stick to? I read in another topic that NAPA sells universal 134a conversion kits so i'm probably going to do that. Anyway thanks for reading and thank you for helping me out!
-
So today I decided to replace the shoes on my rear drum brakes on my Loyale. I've been looking for rear discs for about a year, but not had any luck. Either I don't have the money, there are no junkyard cars, or a list of other reasons. I just spent the $20 and got new drum shoes. Installation went fine (surprising). Wasn't too difficult, even for my first time doing drum brakes. What I have a question about is the old shoes. One thing that caught my eye was the Fuji Heavy Industries logo on two of the shoes. Could these be the original brake shoes that came with car in 1990? The new shoes didn't have the Fuji logo (obviously). The odometer is at 278,300 miles. I doubt these are the original shoes. I'd imagine they've been replaced once before. If they were replaced at the dealership, could they have use Fuji brake shoes? I'm just curious about this. Knowing some of the car's history, I'd say it was probably a 60/40 highway/city driving car. So there's no way the shoes are original, right? They're really worn down, but they still worked. Lift the back of the car, step on the brake, and you can't turn the wheels. Second thing I wanted to ask about is the wear. The leading edge shoe (towards the front of the car) had less material than the trailing edge. Is this normal for EA82s? Both sides were exactly the same, no marks on the drums themselves, and the material on the pads seems pretty normal (no cracks or whatever). I just wanted to ask about this. I kinda have a feeling it's normal, but wanted to check. Thanks for any help. I know a lot of people do rear disc swaps, so not sure how abundant the information on drums is. But all I can say is, the new shoes made a HUGE difference. My brake pedal is a lot stiffer and doesn't have a deadzone in it anymore. I presume the front brakes won't overheat easily anymore. I'll be happy if I can get at least 100K out of these shoes. Thanks!
-
New here. Trying to get my 94 Loyale up and running again. It is firing on only 3 cylinders and my mechanic has run through most everything now thinking it is the distributor. Just wondering how common a bad distributor is on these and if that doesn't fix it andybody got any other ideas? Much appreciated.
-
My 1992 3 speed automatic Loyale which i recently acquired makes whitish clear smoke in the engine compartment after driving for a while. It runs great and has no noticeable leaks but still smokes for about 5 minutes after i park it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Zach
-
Hello USMB, Recently been thinking of purchasing an older Loyale wagon... I've owned 2 subarus, a 2001 that I sold after the HG went and a 98 that I sold after the timing belt exploded on me. My current vehicle is a 95 tacoma and while I love the 4wd capability, it's been expensive to fix and i'm growing a bit tired of low mpg's. I'm planning on hitting the road in a couple months for a long road trip across the western states and would like to sell the truck and pick up a wagon with decent offroad/snow capabilities and good mpg's (25-30mpg). I figured that for the selling price of my truck, I could pick up a loyale for a grand or so and throw a bit of cash at it to fix gaskets and other major components that need it, plus be able to put some back in the bank account. My question is this... A lot of the loyales i've seen for sale have around 220k on them. Do you think it's worth it to wait for something that has mid 100k's on it or just purchase the vehicle with a bit higher mileage that has already had some major things replaced on it? This thing definitely needs to be dependable since I'll be spending a good deal of time in the middle of nowhere in the desert southwest... Thanks!
-
hi Im an newbie to the forum that is need of a mechanic to work on my subaru loyale 1990. I think i have a cam shaft oil leak and im thinking of replacing my ERG solenoid myself. thank you in head of time for all your help michael -
Does anyone know where an RX front lip can be obtained? or a "replica"/something aftermarket? I know there are plenty of DIY lips for imprezas and legacies, but how about for an ea82? pics?
-
So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker
-
My 1993 California Loyale passed smog for every test except it was 3pts high on the low-speed hc test. I have an SPFI, 5speed, with 180k miles on the car. I noticed the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line has zero vacuum at idle and when I rev the engine! I blew some air into the passage and it only exits from a port ABOVE the throttle plate! According to theory, it's supposed to get manifold vacuum below the throttle plate so it can actuate at idle to reduce fuel. So why is it ported to above the throttle plate at atmospheric? What's funny is I don't have any idling or other problems associated with a faulty fuel regulator, yet it appears it's not doing anything. The shop manual shows the SPFI engine has the port above the throttle plate too. However, it's below the throttle plate for the MPFI engine! Anybody have an explanation for such a strange setup? Is the regulator in the SPFI just a 'fuelish' invention in this case?
-
Guess I'm just lazy and don't feel like looking around here for the answer. I've heard of using forester or legacy struts on a loyale for lifting. Can anyone tell me about doing this? Is there any camber issue? And I'm think 2" lift in the rear. Suggestions for that would be great.
-
I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
