carfreak85
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Everything posted by carfreak85
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I'm sure it's less of an issue in North Hollywood, but there isn't a chance in hell I'd ever run without timing covers. The factory rally cars, rallycross cars, the Isle of Mann car, AND the Nürburgring 24hr car all use timing covers. That's a good enough reason for me.
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carfreak85 replied to brus brother's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXI would seriously recommend against using a stop-leak fluid for your oil leak. Those additives tend to make a mess inside your engine and for the most part, they don't even work. As mentioned above, I would take a look and try to find the source of the leak and fix that. My guess is the oil separator plate on the back of the engine, valve cover gasket or possibly the head gasket itself.
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The Enkei gold is different from the gold used on 2.5RS/STI wheels. It is more pale and has no "flake" in it versus the yellow-gold of the Subaru gold. As suggested, just ask to see a swatch of gold shades and pick the one you prefer.
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I would never install a physically smaller filter. The reason a smaller filter increases oil pressure it due to a flow restriction, which is not a good thing when it comes to the lubricating lifeblood of your engine.
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@GeneralDisorder
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OP, did you ever get this car running well?
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This is a poor way to update the lug pattern. A 5-lug swap nets better geometry, stronger wheel bearings, larger brakes and a wider array of replacement items like rotors, pads, calipers, etc. If that's too large a project, redrilling the hubs for a 6x5.5" lug pattern gets you bolt on wheels that can be found anywhere, in any size.
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carfreak85 replied to bertmann73's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXREALLY?! Was this due to excessive failures or it wasn't profitable? Our Forester has two SoA reman front axles...
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@Nico Follow along!
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carfreak85 replied to 1 Lucky Texan's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXI'd be surprised if your running more than a few degrees cooler, only because the factory coolant temperature gauge is basically a three position pointer. The needle will sit in the middle of the gauge for a much wider range of temperatures compared to the lower 1/3 and upper 1/3 of the gauge. The coolant temp gauge on my 1987 Toyota Tercel has no filter on the circuit and you can see the needle rise a bit when stopped at a light, and fall when the fans come on or the thermostat opens. This sort of movement scares people, so manufacturers started building temp gauges that were more sloth like to prevent scared drivers.
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carfreak85 replied to turboguzzi's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXI don't know about anyone else, but I always coat the body of the ball joints, the pocket in the knuckle, and the bolt shank with high temp grease. I don't live in the Rust Belt, but I do take frequent trips to the ski hill in the worst weather conditions, but I've never had parts rust together either. If reusing the ball joint or tie rod ends I use a removal tool and the Company 23 ball joint extraction tool when they're being replaced in the knuckle.
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carfreak85 replied to turboguzzi's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXIt's not hard once you invest in the proper tools. http://company23.com/products/subarutools/532
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carfreak85 replied to turboguzzi's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXLifting by the rear diff is no problem, but as the OP noted, it does put an extra stress on the rubber bushings. I would not leave a car suspended by the rear diff for an extended period, just for lifting and lowering for maintenance.
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Thanks Paul, saw this on FB!
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Do you have the EA81T FSM supplement? I think there is one on eBay right now.
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Your car already had unequal length runners on the exhaust manifold. Could also install the oil pressure sender on one of the unused ports on the PS side of the block, no need for a "tee" or additional leak point.
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Give them a call?
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Nope, never heard of them. I try to stay with the bigger outfits in case something goes wrong, and only roll the dice if I can have a layer of protection, like a CC or PayPal buyer's protection.
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Not a bad idea. I'll have another look at it over the long weekend.
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carfreak85 replied to 1 Lucky Texan's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXThe upper hose neck on your radiator has a hairline crack it's normal on the turbo Subarus around this age. The one on my 2002 WRX let go about five years ago. I replaced it with a Koyo all-aluminum Hyper Core. Perfect fit, fan mounting hardware included and not too expensive if you grab one on sale or from a company with deals ongoing and free shipping. Rallysportdirect.com has free shipping on orders over $200, I bought the BRZ Koyo rad for the RX-RA from MAPerformance.com. I would just look up the part number and search for it on Google Shopping, see who has it cheapest.
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Do you meant the bolts holding the corner brackets to the bumper frame? Luckily those weren't rusty, but the plastic clips from the bumper skin the secure it to the steel frame, there are so many of them and they all seem to need to release at the same time...
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There are also paints you can use to coat the inside of a boxed weldment, but I'm forgetting what it's called...
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@moosens is supposed to pull out his '85 FSM to look up something for me, maybe he can help two birds with one book, if he sees this?
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I can see the clips on the back side of the bumper but I only have two hands and there are somewhere around 15 clips that all feel like they'd need to be released at the same time for the skin to peel away. Hard to get that many hands in one place during a pandemic! Hoping the early EA82 FSM provides some hints.
