Crazyeights

They look nice on those alloys too! You should have them for a long time if you switch them out seasonally.

I am curious how this turns out. Please follow up with performace gains, added noise, ect.

Can't find them anymore on Rock, sorry. Try these instead; http://www.ingallseng.com/38100-subaru-adjustable-front-strut-rod.html

This is great, thanks for taking the time to do the write-up on the power locks. There isn't a whole lot out there to search for like that. Good Job!

Rockauto.com sells the adjustable ones.

You can also slice through the old bushing casing from the inside once the metal inner part is removed. Be careful not to cut too far into the control arm. This relief cut allows the old bushing casing to be tapped right out.

I am working on this now using a factory trip computer. I am not sure how far I will make it, but the basic system is running on the bench including outside temp

I agree, the trans is most likely fine.

Perhaps something like this might work? It's early Legacy though I think. The Subaru Select Monitor turns up now and again but it usually commands $$$ http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/Files/B10ScanTool/b10scan.html

Basically IMO it comes down to these 2 general categories. 1) Generic OBD I and OBD II series scan tools. These will give you GENERIC access to trouble codes and data, OBD health checks, etc. Some will also give you code definitions and some troubleshooting which is very helpful (IE the more the better IMO) Usually these come with a few adapters and the generic 16 pin OBD II adapter. This can be anything from a USB adapter for your laptop, bluetooth widget for your smartphone, etc. 2) Scan tools with vehicle specific or manufacturer specific access to the different onboard controllers via the make, model, and VIN # entry offer advantages in the amount of information available to you for diagnosis and troubleshooting. Any of these will cover all of the generic PIDs with the addition of being able to access the manufacurers PIDS in the ECU, TCU, BCM, SIR, ABS, HVAC, modules. More expensive kits will include additional connectors and software for Europeanvehicles, adapters for older ODB I vehicles, etc. The downside with these is price. All the extra software and adapters give you a lot more capabilites and it all costs more too. The detailed troubleshooting software included with my scan tools has helped me more times than I can count over the years as I work alone most of the time. One specific reproducable example I can think of right off is a 2001 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 SOHC V-6 engine. Pull off the connector for the cam sensor on the left valve cover and start the engine. The generic scan tool connected to the 16 pin OBD II port does not read a code P0340 for quite a while, perhaps miles. With a scan tool connected using vehicle specific (VIN) entry you will see that code P0340 instantly (the second the engine starts). Lastly, search out the code setting parameters and the information available in generic mode $06. It helps to brush up on hex a bit, but you can actually use this data to verify repair effectiveness. Again, both methods provide valuable information and in my opinion are both needed. Most issues can be resolved with a good generic OBD scanner, but as you see the more you learn, the more toys you seem to want. Good Luck! My diagnostic kit also contains a Lab Scope, Logic Probe, and DVOM too. These are my ramblings. You are free to form your own.

It will take some work but it can certainly be done. I would attempt it for sure. It is made easier by the fact that you have the entire donor vehicle. Can you do most of the work yourself? This will probably be the key to success with this project as it will be very labor intensive (IE EXPENSIVE) if you have to pay a tech $90.00 per hour. I say if you are ok with the wiring and general fabrication then take a look at the Outback wiring schematics first. If you aren't scared off yet, and the fact that the radiator will likely not fit at all, then please post lots of pics! Good Luck...

IMHO any restriction in the heater core (example, it is 20% plugged up with crap) makes it almost impossible to bleed the air out. Any amount of flushing these things in the car at reasonable pressures usually leads to a come-back due to noise. Replacing the heater core, while not always the most attractive solution, is uually what is required to eliminate 100% of the gurgling noise inside your dash board and restore proper toasty winter heat output. This assumes that the impeller on the back of your water pump is attached and spinning and that the thermostat is working, radiator not restricted also, etc.

I hope you are wearing a mask

@Gloyale^^^ Good stuff right there, Thank You

Since I want to help and at the same time respect all parties involved, I'll just start scanning away and wait to hear from someone. In the mean time I'll fire a message off to Subaru if I can find an 'addy. Hopefully I can figure out how to make it in to .pdf docs.

I have managed to collect quite a pile of Subaru factory service manuals, parts catalogs, factory technician training manuals, etc. Some of it I have never seen anywhere else. I would like to [EDIT] Please talk to "moosens" and "somick" This "pissing match" belongs to them now... Pleasure yourself with THAT!

You won't regret this purchase. You will not believe how much information that manual contains about your car compared to ANY other manual, IE Haynes, Chilton, etc. I have most of the factory printed parts manuals of that vintage also. Worth every penny! Great Score IMHO

With a year on a "Franken" motor perhaps head gasket leakage should also be ruled out as a cause. Have you done an HC test just to be sure?

I like the air dam too. What is that off of? It looks different than the R/X one.

I have done this and it works fine. Just make sure all the measurements check out first.

Thank you for this!

It's been a while. The best I can remember, and I used ALL dealer parts and seals, it was probably $225.00 - $250.00. I think it needed one bearing too for another $30.00 or so. All of the rest of the hard parts were still good enough to re-use and it already had over 200k on it!

Yes it should be just fine as long as it's not FT 4WD and you just keep it only in FWD. I have driven this combination before exactly like that and much worse in the middle of different projects.

I have the complete paper volumes. I'll look it up. It may take a couple days. Just keep pestering me if your desperate

I'll watch the north end for you.