el_freddo

Engine mounts are the same. Use the manual gearbox crossmember from memory. I think you need the manual tail shaft too. If you’ve got the two vehicles the physical swap will be easy. Going carb to MPFI is either an entire loom swap from your current subi into the new one (basically you’re doing a reshell), or you pull the wiring from your current subi and cut it down to just the MPFI wiring to run the engine - then put this into the recipient vehicle. The wiring will be where the work is unless the replacement/recipient subi is also MPFI. Move been there done that with carb to MPFI. With the amount of work done I could’ve done an EJ conversion in the wiring department... Cheers Bennie

My question is: WHY?! The 5spd box is superior in just about every way to the 4speed box. You’ll have to customise the tail shaft or see if the one piece unit fits. If your L series is carb, the driveshafts will fit no worries. You’ll have to work out the gearbox mounts. Really though it’s a waste of time. Put a 5 speed in. If it’s the dual range you’re after, wait for/buy a dual range 5speed - avoid the turbo gearbox as it’s got a poor low range reduction compared to the NA boxes. Cheers Bennie

Hey Ash, With the EJ18 you’ll be fine with that exedy clutch. I don’t think it’s super common to do the cases swap on the gearbox. Search it on Ausubaru.com.auninmy build thread of Ruby Scoo It’s prettt much - get Gen1 AWD box, split it for the case, bin the rest. Split EA82 box - carefully! That rear section is not fun at all. Take note of how it comes apart so you can put it all back together. Same for the gear selector forks - there’s some tricky decent ball work in there to get it all out and back in again. Cheers Bennie

You need to contact Subarino Auto Electrics - based in Perth, he’ll look after you in the adaptor plate and flywheel mods department (DIY flywheel mod but has a neat template to follow). As for the clutch pressure plate, I’ve heard of people beefing up the stock unit at a reputable clutch shop. Any decent shop should be able to complete that work. Personally I’m running the stock EJ flywheel and clutch setup. To do this you need to “shove” the EA gearbox internals into the EJ phase 1 gearbox front cases. What you’re worried about isn’t anything huge. I’m sure many ppl run with the factory EA82 pressure plate without an issue. It is best to have the clutch as the weak point and not the gearbox, just learn how to drive it so you avoid slippage. Cheers Bennie

The engine sensor should only have one plug/tab. The sensor is grounded through the intake manifold and is basically a thermal resistor, the single wire is what goes to the gauge to make it do its thing. The radiator fan switch is also a single plug unit. It too is grounded but through the radiator. The other wire earths out the relay that triggers the thermo fan(s). If you have a two wire unit, it’s for an L series but will still work if you ground one wire - I’m not 100% sure if this is specific to one wire or either wire. If you’ve got this unit your radiator doesn’t need to be grounded. Cheers Bennie

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm @montermahanread it. Less there than what you’ve just posted above. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder - rough day mate? You’ve been like a heat seeking missle! Cheers Bennie

Same platform so they should be the same unless the lift is built into the centre bearing mount. Cheers Bennie

It MUST be the impreza unit, not the liberty/legacy auto unit? Cheers Bennie

ALso make sure your radiator is grounded with the little ground wire at the top of the radiator to the upper rad support panel. Engine temp gauge sensor is a 17mm hex head Cheers Bennie

You probably need a new sender unit. Cheers Bennie

He’s got a brumby style three door hatch - like Subarino’s hatchy. I didn’t know they made them through to ‘89! That’s awesome! @6 Star - you’ll definitely need a new exhaust once the 4wd system is in as the FWD unit will take the easier route to the rear end, typically straight down the trans tunnel. It’ll be a good project, been done before so not impossible! Cheers Bennie

@DaveT - got a link to that thread? Cheers Bennie

One way to find out, but I don’t see why not. I say go for it, it sounds like you don’t have anything to lose! Cheers Bennie

There are three bolts on the swing arm that can influence the camber and probably toe into a point. No one ever touches these in an alignment as the bolts are typically too hard to get to and the MYs and L series are listed as a fixed rear end... but if the swing arms have ever been removed then this alignment from delivery is lost. Even then it’s not ever good. I’ve seen a tech bulletin outlining the alignment of the rear end using these three bolts but I’ve never done it, nor can I find that bulletin now On a more extreme note, has the car ever been crashed? It could be bent ever so slightly making the car want to crab along the road. Cheers Bennie

CEL typically doesn’t come on due to a fuel issue. If you’ve got bad fuel the exu will pull timing. But if you’ve got an injector issue it could throw a CEL, this is why you need to check the codes - and you don’t need a scanner to do it either! Cheers Bennie

Do a “de-lift” - find a legacy of the same era and pull all the suspension mount bolts, struts and possibly the gearbox crossmember - you’ll need the steering extension too! With your outback you pull all the lift blocks out and replace the bolts with those from the legacy. From there other options are impreza struts (maybe, someone will know), coilovers, lowered springs... I’ve always thought it odd to de-lift an outback or forester but it’s been done many times before! Cheers Bennie

Near the steering column behind the kick panel above the driver’s feet are two black plug with a single wire each. Plug these together, turn the ignition to the ON position without the engine running. Watch the check engine light - long flash = value of ten, short flash = value of one. The ECU will cycle through all stored codes. So once you’ve got them recorded on paper and you’re re-reading them innthe flashing CEL you know you’ve got them all. If there are no stored codes, you’ll have a series of single flashes that tells you the ECU area designation/market. You can then look up these codes to find out what they are. My bet is the IACV is the culprit. Cheers Bennie

I’ve had success with rocking the car back and forth to unlock park brakes. Or removing the wheel then tapping the area where the park brand shoes contact could free up those shoes too. Cheers Bennie

Read the stored codes with the test connectors. That’ll be your starting point. Cheers Bennie

Giles, how many accounts is this now?? Ever thought of using the “remember me” tick box? Works a treat and I rarely have to use my log in details Cheers Bennie

Where did you find that Jono? I’d be keen for a set of these to replace my no-so-good-rushed-I’ll-change-them-later units! Cheers Bennie

If you’re not going to 5 stud, just use the factory MPFI manual L series shafts. They’ll drop right in with an EJ box. This ONLY works for the L series when keeping the 4x140 PCD. Cheers Bennie

Buy buy buy. Then drop in a 3L H6 AWD setup Cheers Bennie

Sounds like you’ve nailed the issue. The concern is what damage is done to the crown or pinion gears while they’ve ran untrue to each other. Could be worth the gamble. Worst case scenario is a gearbox replacement down the line. Cheers Bennie