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Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
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I had my 2011 Legacy 2.5i premium with 16'' wheels. Unfortunately it was totaled, and I am now looking for replacement. Hate to go with 17'', but it looks like 17'' is the only option for 2.5i Premium now. Will 16'' wheels still fit on the later than 2011 Model year, and this is just Subaru marketing, or is there a reason why only 17'' wheels are specified, perhaps larger brakes? -Michael -
Any good ideas on how to make a good snorkel for my 01' lego? pics would be great too!! -
I drive a 92 Loyale wagon (standard, 4wd) and my brother has a 96 legacy wagon that he is planning on having towed off. Are there any parts that are worth taking for my Loyale? I know a lot of stuff isn't compatible but is there anything worth pulling? Thanks. -
I have major back problems and want to upgrade the struts (maybe spings) and mounts. My aim is not to lower (lots of snow up here), but to improve ride comfort. Not necessarily softer, just smoother. I can't find anything here or elsewhere regarding this. Any informed opinion would be really helpful. Given the cost of the upgrades (vs car value) I can't try a number of systems. Thanks in advance, I am a newbie here. I will be doing the install myself, but will pay someone else to do the alignment. -
So, I can't get a definitive answer about what i'll need for a crossmember to drop my ej22t into my xt6. I was told an ea82t crossmember would be workable and i've gotten conflicting info there stating that the xt crossmember won't bolt up to the mount holes in the 6... anyone here done the swap before?
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Recently I acquired a 2001 lego sedan for $300 and it runs, drives, has a clear title, the only problem with it is the drivers side is bagged up a bit...any who I want to make it into an off road rig. But I'm trying to find a cheap way to lift it, I have a couple of ideas but always looking for suggestions!
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It's has over 200,000 miles on it, it has the 2.2 SOHC, paid $500 for it knowing it had a bad water pump and is stuck in front wheel drive. It was a gamble I know... So I replaced the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, some bad gears, the spark plugs and the wires. It's still overheating, only takes a minute or so to overheat, there's no external coolant leaks, no white smoke. No coolant in the oil. It has the standard head gasket leak, so some oil burns off the engine which is expected because it's been sitting a while. I understand that there could be air in the coolant system, so i am going to try "burping" it... I'm also getting a new radiator cap. Then if that doesn't work, I'm going to try draining it and adding the coolant more slowly and carefully. Then, I'm going to see if the new thermostat works by putting it in hot water, and I am going to make sure it was installed correctly. If that doesn't work, I can purchase a replacement engine for $500, and I have low labor costs so that's not too much of an issue. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the tranny, besides the front wheel drive issue that a transfer case should fix, but I haven't driven it over 10 mph yet because of the overheating. So essentially, I was wondering if there was anything else I can do/check for before buying an engine. (It'll cost less in labor to buy a new engine as opposed to replacing the head gaskets) I'm also considering saying screw it and buying another Subie, but we shall see where the wind blows on that one. -
Bought a new legacy (2011) with OEM remote start. Remote is not paired. Is this something I can do myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer? I found the steps below online, but they don't seem to be working. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Steps I found that AREN'T working: Open drivers door turn key in ignition from lock to on to lock to on to lock to on Hit remote button once turn key to lock -
So I just recently raised my Legacy onto Outback Suspension and put 27' General Grabber AT2's on her. I've noticed a HUGE loss of power, which I expected. With a tired out EJ22 I know its time for an engine swap in the short future. My question is, What are my options? I dont want a EJ25 because of the common HG problems. Would a 3.0 out of an H6 Outback work? I'm open to just about anything, but I wanna try to keep it subaru. -
Hello new friends, I have recently purchased a 1992 Subaru Loyale 1.8L on-demand AWD 5 speed with 143k from a friend. It is not in running condition and when it died it just stopped with no sign or reason. Before I purchased it they tried replacing the following Spark plugs Wires Distributor Button Cap Coil The car stopped running back in November 2012 and hasn't started since. I've spent 3 hours on this already and am ready to be done. I've double checked the timing of cylinder #1 and the distributor. They are in time and I get a strong spark to cylinder #1 and #3 however, I get a very weak signal to the other side #2 and #4. I'm confused by this, I even replaced the CAP again and same thing. I haven't tested compression yet, but I was able to see the intake valves on #1 while turning the motor for TDC (via TDC whistle indicator). and I haven't tested for proper fuel pressure, however we get a nice steady flow. The motor does not sound like it has loss of compression, but doesn't sound 100% when cranking. \ I assumed that it was flooded so it has been aired out. I will test for compression and injector pulse tomorrow. Could it be possible that if the #2 and #4 timing belt is broken that it would give a weak spark? I haven't pulled the covers yet, because it is a little intensive to pull those things. lol. The car is still at my friends Apartment so this is all being done onsite, not in a garage. Any info would be great. This is my first boxer motor and I'm very excited about the Journey we will have together. again thank you new friends -mike -
Hello new friends, I have recently purchased a 1992 Subaru Loyale 1.8L on-demand AWD 5 speed with 143k from a friend. It is not in running condition and when it died it just stopped with no sign or reason. Before I purchased it they tried replacing the following Spark plugs Wires Distributor Button Cap Coil The car stopped running back in November 2012 and hasn't started since. I've spent 3 hours on this already and am ready to be done. I've double checked the timing of cylinder #1 and the distributor. They are in time and I get a strong spark to cylinder #1 and #3 however, I get a very weak signal to the other side #2 and #4. I'm confused by this, I even replaced the CAP again and same thing. I haven't tested compression yet, but I was able to see the intake valves on #1 while turning the motor for TDC (via TDC whistle indicator). and I haven't tested for proper fuel pressure, however we get a nice steady flow. The motor does not sound like it has loss of compression, but doesn't sound 100% when cranking. \ I assumed that it was flooded so it has been aired out. I will test for compression and injector pulse tomorrow. Could it be possible that if the #2 and #4 timing belt is broken that it would give a weak spark? I haven't pulled the covers yet, because it is a little intensive to pull those things. lol. The car is still at my friends Apartment so this is all being done onsite, not in a garage. Any info would be great. This is my first boxer motor and I'm very excited about the Journey we will have together. again thank you new friends -mike
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Back in March I had put a set of outback struts in my 2001 legacy L and I bought them used but they were supposed to be new. Well anywho today on the way home I had one explode and come apart while I was going down the road. I use my car every day to travel around and work on farm equipment and need it to be fixed ASAP so I was wondering if anyone could tell me where the best place is to get a complete strut assembly or quick strut, Advance Auto doesn't carry a complete strut for my car, Thanks, Luke
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Ok, I found a few moments to consider some requests for a bigger version of the XV-Ute : This one is based on the current Legacy / Outback platform & should give you a much larger payload + a sportier look to boot ... ! Outback-Ute-1 Outback-Ute-2 Outback-Ute-3 Outback-Ute-4 Outback-Ute-5 Note : For an even larger version, click on the link @ bottom of right of picture to see the 'Originals' ... Cheers, Bantum ... P.S. - I might have to come back to this & fix up the links ... -
This is the first time my legacy has ever done this but here it is, my 2001 legacy started to overheat on me twice today, first time was going through the drive thru and it spiked up to 3/4 of the way then immediately went back to normal, after which I got on the highway traveled 75 miles, then had to go through a town with some stop and go traffic then it happened again. I have been noticing that the over flow tank has been filling up somewhat and today after these two occurrences it was over flowing. What I was thinking is that it could be the radiator car is bad because it is the original one so I replaced it and haven't really drove it since. The head gaskets were done about 60K ago and the thermostat should be fail proof meaning that if it were to go bad it would stick open. I'm just looking for some input on this, like I said I may have fixed it with the new radiator cap but haven't really drove it yet.
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What I have is a 2001 legacy sedan and what I need is a good clutch and timing belt kit. My car has 113xxx on her and the clutch is on her way out and while I have the engine out I want to do the timing belt and everything because it was last done at 50,000 so I figured on just doing everything at once so I don't have to worry about it for another 100,000 miles. But what I want to find out is what is a good clutch but nothing to expensive, also what is a good timing belt kit Thanks, Luke
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I have a 1993 Legacy sedan with 170k miles that I recently purchased. Last week I noticed the tranny slipping as I accelerated from stop. I have identified 2nd gear as the problem. I was planning on changing the ATF and filter today, when I stumbled upon this forum. I get the impression that since the filter is more of a screen that dropping the pan is a waste of time. The fluid is very dirty and probably not been changed in quite a while. I am concerned that the problems are worse than a fluid change will help, but its worth a shot. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. -
So my wagon is having issues. Saturday: Ran fine, took out injectors to see if the were the cause of my terrible idle, all seemed well so they went back on. Tried to start it, nothing. A few tries latter the engine seized. I pulled the plugs, unclipped the coil pack, and turned it over. Gas came shooting out like a fountain out of my engine. Put it all back together. Car then turned over but wouldnt start. Realized I forgot an O-Ring for one of my injectors. Replaced it. Still nothing. Sunday: Let it sit overnight. Tried to start it, nothing. Siezed again, cleared it out and replaced plugs. Nothing. Monday: Checked EVERYTHING. Siezed again and again. Then randomly ran for 20 minutes shooting gas out of the tail pipe, turned it off and tried again. Nothing. Tuesday: Replaced ALL O-Rings tried to start, siezed, tried to start again, ran for 5 minutes, but then I hit the gas a little and it died. I noticed that if I press on the pedal and prime it while I try and start it, it starts, but then dies or will run but dies when I press on the pedal. My neighbor (owns a BADASS Forrester) thinks its a fuel pressure regulator. Could anyone give me some of their opinions?
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So about a month ago I noticed my power steering started to get harder and harder to turn. About a week and a half ago it began to make noise. Last week I replaced the pump and yet still no change. Today I blew an axle...yay me....so as I was under the car checking out my busted hub and axle, I noticed a small tear and the power steering boot. I squeezed it and power steering fluid came gushing out. Does anyone know if this is the cause of the squeeky and difficult steering, or is it something more internal? Also, of anyone has instructions on axle Replacment, that would be wonderful. Thanks guys!
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1995 legacy 2.2 automatic, awd, 160,000, all stock.... I own 4 2.2 legos... All get around 22 mpg average. A few weeks back my son noticed he was dumping more gas in more often than normal. Had him check the gas mileage over a full tank.... 13.7 mpg. Also, it seems to be lacking its previous get up and go.... Sluggish, but not horrible. I have had the cat converter suggested.... What other likely culprits are good starting points? No engine light, by the way.... Thanks! -
I have a 2007 Subaru Legacy 2.5i, and there are barely any performance parts for it. Will any parts made for the GT fit my 2.5i? Like exhaust and coil overs? Also, do you need to buy aftermarket caster and camber kits when lowering a Subaru? Thanks. -
I have a 91 legacy and it keeps popping out of 4th gear while driving so I figure with 327k on it it's time for a new tranny. It is a 5 spd AWD. I am wondering which trannys will fit. I would like to get one out of a newer car with less miles so 90 to 94 will probably have too many miles. I was told after 94 something about the exhaust hangers are differant which doesn't bother me, I just want to make sure the wiring and componants are the same. And does anyone know for sure what the final drive gear is 390 or 411? Thanks. -
So I wanna lift my legacy, but as a high school student in search of a job, I want to get OK gas mileage. I was thinking a 4in lift would be best, perhaps a 6. With a 4in lift, what kind I mpg am I looking at, same with a 6? My definition of OK is greater than 15mpg. I'm assuming tires play a big role in it as well. I was thinking some 28's...
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So I wanna lift my legacy, but as a high school student in search of a job, I want to get OK gas mileage. I was thinking a 4in lift would be best, perhaps a 6. With a 4in lift, what kind I mpg am I looking at, same with a 6? My definition of OK is greater than 15mpg. I'm assuming tires play a big role in it as well. I was thinking some 28's...
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I'm looking for a used car, that I can mod and I found this. What do you guys think about moding this car? And what's your overall opinion of it?
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Hello again. I've had a problem that has slowly been developing with my '94 Legacy. The driver side door is becoming difficult to open with the interior handle, however it opens easily with the outside handle, so I know that the latch isn't gummed up or binding. I'm thinking that there must be a linkage that is worn or stretched, and the interior handle hits its limit stop before fully releasing the latch. (That's just my theory...) Has anyone had this happen before? Is it difficult or are there any guides on how to take the door panel off to check this out? Thanks.
