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Hey everyone, my name's Denny, I've been in Montana a while, and the whole time I've lived here I've been struggling to harness the power of my EA81 86 Hatch that probably got offroaded a bit too hard before sitting in a barn for a few decades. Despite the dents, it looked so cool and classic that I couldn't resist risking the possible mechanical troubles and made it my only vehicle and daily driver. That was a few years ago, and well... things could have gone better perhaps, but my history with the car aside for the moment, I just worked enough OT this spring to start a five speed d/r swap (mostly because my 4spd is toasted). I nearly don't know what I'm doing, but I'm pretty good at using the internet (leading me to lurk around this forum many many times before finally joining) and have lots and lots of wobble socket extensions for my ratchet set, so we'll see how this goes. Anyways, I'm not sure if this is an introduction post, or where I should frantically throw all my questions out into the forum, so I figure I'll just keep a little log here of my plans and progress and let people interject whatever comments, which if they serve to prevent serious catastrophes in my car would be much appreciated. I'm sure I'll get around to posting pictures eventually. For those on this forum who really like vintage stock and show quality rigs, my handiwork thus far may be an eyesore, and my methods questionable, and my results may not speak for themselves all that well, but the number of times I've nearly ruined this car compared to the number of times I've actually ruined this car is something like quite a bit of times to zero, so I'm hoping once I get this tranny in, I'll be aiming for a million miles!!! ...we'll see. Anyways, sorry in advance if this post is way too long, lots of thinking out loud going on here, but hopefully there is something to gain from it by someone, but if not, these are some good notes for me at least! And for the record, lots of the info here I've gathered from this forum in the first place, so it can't hurt to have it show up again all in one post. My current project is the one I'm most concerned about, which is the 5 speed dual range swap from an EA82 car to my EA81 GL Hatchback which came stock with the 4 speed dual range. So far I'm way over budget, and I'll just keep the budget going until this puppy drives! Fortunately, I've done way too much research recently so that I will hopefully stop accidentally throwing away all my money, so here's the deal with the tranny so far: I just got a tranny FedExed to my house from some South Dakota ebay seller for 4 hundo (not as cool as finding local junkyard budget parts, probably should have tried harder on that front) it's supposedly off some 88 wagon with 186,000 miles. It looks ok, other than the splines for the passenger side half shaft look real bunged up, looks to me like the roll pin must have been out for thousands of miles, but not sure what the deal is. In order to avoid spending money, i may just file a few imperfections out and see if I can make it work, everything else looks good from the outside as far as I can tell. It has the correct 23 spline axle stubs (is that the right term for those?) as I've been told anything other than the turbo models ought to. It also should have a 3.9:1 final drive, as it's a dual range rather than the single range which supposedly have the 3.7:1 final drive, so the 3.9:1 matches the reduction in my stock rear differential. I also have a luks flywheel and clutch kit (model 15008, for the ea82 4WD), brand new, the clutch disk and pilot bearing both fit very well on the input shaft. As of 1986, my model year, the hatchbacks switched to the inch larger flywheel that's the same size as the later EA82 flywheel (I believe this started in 1983 with EA81 wagons?), so the good news is that I don't have to file the bottom of the engine's bellhousing to fit a flywheel in there! However, I've heard the ea82 pressure plate may not work great with the EA81 flywheel due to a slightly different depth of the flywheel, but I know very little about those specs, and I had already purchased an ea82 flywheel, new from luks also, so I would rather use this already paid for flywheel than reuse my old one if possible. There is kind of an issue here though, the holes for the flywheel bolts are apparently larger than the EA81's flywheel bolts. I've heard of people ignoring this problem and installing it anyways with no issues, and I've heard of people making some spacers with helicoil inserts, but I honestly have no idea how they made helicoil inserts without making the flywheel into a threaded hole, which I don't want of course, so I'm hoping to craft some bushings out of brass tubing here soon. That should work, but if I hadn't already bought the EA82 flywheel, I could have spent that money on getting my stock flywheel machined and finding a proper 225mm EA81 pressure plate, or attempting to use the EA82 pressure plate that I have without knowing if it will clamp tight enough, but I do have the flywheel already, so that's the cheaper option now (and it's brand new!). The new pressure plate that I got with the kit does have quite a few scratches and burs on the supposed to be super flat machined face, from poor handling somewhere in the supply chain, I'm not sure if this qualifies as defective and should be returned, or if I'm just gonna slap some 400 grit emery cloth on there to take out the sharp bits and call it a day. The tranny came with pretty worn out mounts, but maybe not too worn out. I'm contemplating whether to reuse them or head over to rock auto again... but I'm glad that it did come with the mounts at least. Before signing up, I decided to give Jerry (bratsrus1) a call, he gave me some good advice and I talked to him about his kit for installing these trannies in EA81 vehicles, I haven't sent him a message on here yet though, so he probably has no idea who I am... (some carpenter and chairlift operator who called from a ski resort in MT a few weeks ago? ... I'll pm eventually, I digress) so I plan on using the famous "Jerry's Kit" to solve many of the fitment problems of the transmission swap in a way that is vastly more economical than buying a welder right now (I know how to tig weld, but I don't have the gear unfortunately), and even if I had a welder i'm not convinced that using it would go as smoothly as just getting the help from Jerry. So that's probably next on the list... Also on the list is the custom driveshaft to the rear diff, it's the hatchback so it's 3 inches shorter than the brat, so it's gonna need a custom driveshaft no matter what (whereas with the brat you have the option of the unmodified two piece driveshaft from some other wagons or whatever), so the obvious way to do that is to have the one piece driveshaft lengthened by swapping in 48" of fresh DOM tubing... or rather, me finding a shop that can do that for me and balance the shaft afterward. That should be the last serious budget killer on the list. My next (...possibly first?) steps are to actually start pulling the old parts off the sooby soon, that way I can start sorting out the details to get Jerry's kit, and the lengthened driveshaft. I recently acquired a punch that I think will work for the roll pins holding the front halfshafts on, so I suppose it's go time... I may just spend a few more days looking at some manuals again though, so if I don't post updates here regularly, I hope the suspense doesn't bother anyone (other than myself) Other things worth noting that are going on in the car include a poorly installed muffler, pretty new shocks and struts, the Weber 32/36 dgev swap!, some random LED interior light bulbs, a minimalist half done wooden trunk area where the carpet and plastic has been replaced with plywood!, some random silicone hoses of varying sizes and colors doing all kinds of things under the hood, excessively positive camber front wheels (I may get some square tubing to do a mild lift and move the strut mounts enough to fix the camber soon), and plenty of cigarettes in the ashtray! The most unusual part of my car is probably that I have a custom PCV system that actually does a pretty decent job of running my crankcase at low pressure, roughly 5mm Hg, pretty constantly, but still with fresh air entering the crankcase. Anyways, if this counts as an introduction, cool! I'll try get some pictures on here sometime, I also plan on going through more details on the actual tranny swap, since that's what I'm working on now. I'm sure I won't be posting super often, but if I can, I'll throw some pictures up of what's going on, and I'll try to even track down some links that I've found useful as a reference, most of which will probably be links to this forum.

I hauled home a ea82 loyal for parts on my road car last year and an 84 gl I wanted to use as a trail only rig. I didn't get to mess with it much over the winter but yesterday i discovered the engine wont turn over. I was trying to pull it over by putting socket on the crank pulley nut, to the left the nut just gets loose but to the right its solid as a rock. My breaker bar snapped at the end so its VERY seized i think. Guess thats what i get for getting a car out of a landfill. Now the hood sticker says 1.6 but it looks like one of you guys might have owned this thing because its got a ea81 and a fair amount of homemade wireing. Now I dont quite live in the states so its hard to find an engine. I cant just go to a junk yard and get one or cragslist. It would be more expensive that way even if i found one. I see RPMachine makes some rebuild kits at a price i can afford.Even few plces making ircraft heads. Rockauto has a nearly unusable websight and napa dosnt have anything but gaskets. Is RPMachine decent or should they be avoided? Off topic but I cant find any good info in lifting one of these other than 4inch is the most used on ea81s. All the treads ,pictures, links, other subaru websignts are so old and outdated that the archives 404. (looking at you offroad section). Im going to try and do my part by documenting my rigs but I dont want to have to reinvent the subaru lift.

I have recently got my self a 91 Brumby, it has some issues that I am working through. I have replaced the fuel filter under the bonnet but I have found a second one under the car near the fuel tank. I am having trouble finding a listing for it at any of the parts retailers here in Australia. I am going to take it out and get one to match but my question is why do they have 2 filters. The one under the bonnet has three lines going to it and the one under the car has two. Just curious as to why there are two filters.

So I'm working on this project with my 1984 EA81 DL wagon. Attempting to swap in an EJ22 and the transmission from the same car, 5sp 4MT. I'm having some trouble figuring out how to mount the trans. I can cut out the tunnel but even so, I'm puzzled on how to attach the trans. I could use the EJ22 crossmember with the front sway bar removed. Any thoughts?

hello USMB members, I've had a break in my upper radiator hose this past summer which may have been due to my cooling fans not switching on. The driver didn't realize they weren't coming on prior to the hose break either so i initially changed out the thermostat, thinking that it may have stuck in the closed position. After replacing the Thermostat and its gasket with those crap paper gaskets that are nothing like the molded rubber one I removed.... I then realized the cooling fans were not switching on. i've unplugged the Thermo-fan switch (single spaded connection) with the car running at temp and the fans did not come on, as someone on this list suggested in an older post (2010). This car has two electric fans and came with A/C although I removed the compressor during the lift operation, so I will break out the test light / multimeter this weekend and try to determine where power is or isn't but I thought I'd ask the list for any further suggestions. Also, I noticed a broken spade connection on 1 of the 2 relays mounted on the firewall (passenger side) of this EA81 engine. The relay with the broken spade is nearest the fender and both relays are black cubes with a single mounting screw attachment to the firewall.. Are these relays easy to find? Rockauto, or..? thanks for any help anyone can offer; I'll try posting a pic of the relays in this thread too... best regards!! Gadberry

I'm swapping the whole drivetrain out of my loyale and wanted to lift it while I'm there. It's my dally so I was thinking a 4" AA lift, might go with a 6" depending on how much harder they are that a 4". Never lifted a Subaru before but I know you have to extend the steering knuckle, radiator hoses, and brake lines but is that all with the 4"? Is there more to fabricate with a 6" or are they about the same? I also found a 84 GL yesterday for free and its got a d/r tranny so I wanted to make it a trail and hunting rig. Mostly swamp or snow around here so I'd like to make it water crossing ready, maybe side by side tracks, big o lift, welded diff, ext. Will it's little 1.6 and 4mt be able to handle that though? I know the 4speeds are considered crap but this thing will pretty much live in low range and crawl around. Also how high can I lift an ea81 with stock axles? What all do I have to extend and disconnect.

So the 3at in my 92 loyale is slowly going up the creak, engine has some valve and leaks some oil but is mostly still good. Now all I have access to for parts cars are an 91 loyale and an 84 GL. The 91 loyale was drivable a few months ago but the tranny seemed sloppy, the 84 GL while not ideal has dual range so I'm tempted to put its 4speed in my loyale. I hear the 4speeds suck though so I'm wondering is it worth it for D/R or should I use the 91s 5speed? This car is already slow so I'm not worried about that, maybe an EJ swap in the future when my engine nukes. It's a daily/ATV and the trails around me are extremely crap due to the Florida like rain we got this year. This is why I'm really set on the D/R. Even if it's a harder swap and needs brackets built, not to much of a problem. So anyone have a rightup on this type of swap? Found lots about putting a 5speed in an ea81 but nothing about a 4speed d/r into a ea82.

So I've got a 92 loyale with a rebuilt 1.8 and the stock 3AT tranny pb4wd. The engine seems fine other than some valve chatter I've been to lazy to fix but the 3at is getting sketchy. It's left me stranded a few times and it gets -60 here so no good. I'd love do drop in a 5 speed d/r but haven't found one yet and frost is on the ground so I'm down to what's at the landfill. I can pull whatever parts from a 90s? Legacy sedan, 91 loyale with a sloppy 5speed, or the only one that's in any remotely decent shape; a 84 GL with a 4speed or MAYBE a 5 speed not sure as I didn't get a chance to mess with it much. So is it feasible to swap out the 3at for a ea81 4 or 5 speed? So fare on here I haven't found a thread with much on the subject. I know the 4speed isn't as good as an ea82 5speed but the 5speed in the 91 loyale is very sloppy and goes into gear with out the clutch so I'm assuming it's toast. Should I just deal with the 3at till I can find a good 5speed d/r? Swap in the questionable 5speed from the 91? Try to use the ea81 tranny? I also plan to do a 4" lift and maybe a EJ engine swap if that matters.

I found these on ebay and they fit perfect. All i did was clean out the metal seal rails with a small flat head, cut the seals to length, then worked them in with the rounded edge of a pick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Metro-Quarter-Window-Glass-Seal-Insert-VS3/391537716170?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38618%26meid%3Df40e18573b3e4b399d840be2d82131a2%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D16%26sd%3D391524456322

Hey guys my wife uses our '84 ea81 brat as a dd to she was coming home oil pressure dropped from 50psi where it normally sits to under 25psi she pulled over popped the hood and there was oil every where so she got it towed home i got to looking and theres oil underneath from tip to tail, and theres a tiny bit of coolant coming off the front of the motor, the oil looks to be coming from either the front main seal or oil pump water pump area same place the coolant is dripping, but theres so much oil i can't see where its coming from, theres even oil on all 4 wheels ajd brakes literally every where any input would be nice as this is her dd. Thanks guys.

Alright! I'm starting a thread on the resurection of my 1985 Subaru BRAT GL. A little backstory... I purchased this thing in 2012(?) from an old dude on Craigslist. I wasn't looking for a BRAT, but just stumbled upon it while looking to get a car. I always loved BRAT's but sort of forgot about them over the years. When I saw it, I HAD to have it. So off I went to Welches, OR to pick it up. One issue... I never drove a stick! Ha! So I jumped into the fire and had to learn on the drive home. On the drive the BRAT started losing power and surging and dying. I pulled over and looked under the car to see the catalytic converter glowing BRIGHT red. Uh oh. I called the previous owner and he kindly had it towed to a shop and had his mechanic check it out. He figured the cat was deffective/clogged and installed a new one. I just barely got the BRAT home. Same problem. So what did I do? Joined the USMB! -The day I got it home after a much needed wash- Since I feared the new cat was melted, I took a rod and punched out all of the comb. Still couldn't get it to run right. Rebuilt the Hitachi carb, cleaned and tuned as much as I could. No change. I was at my wits end. I thought I'd been had. Then I decided to reach out to GeneralDisorder (Rick at Superior Subie and Import (before he had the shop)). He generously let me tow the car to his house to see what was up. Without much effort he figured it out! Are you biting your fingernails yet??? It was the ignition control module in the disty! It wasn't screwed down! Halleluja! From there we went over many other things and he imparted a wealth of knowledge. I am eterrnally grateful! So without going into the entire history of this BRAT, here is the short: Ditched all emissions junk, replaced ill-fitting header with a stock one, did the Weber swap, new 185/75/13 tires, new fluids, wires, water pump, DEEP cleaning, yadayadayada. It ran GREAT for a couple years. Out of town trips, Seattle hills, off-road camping, snow, etc. A really creat Bi-Drive Recreational All-Terrain Transporter. So what happened? It developed a few serious oil leaks that went unnoticed. This was my only car and I didn't have the time or space to address every issue it had. I heard some ticking and thought it was noisey lifters. Blew a headgasket, replaced it. ATF flush. New oil. Tick got worse. After a few hundered miles, KNOCK KNOCK! The damn thing siezed. And I was moving that week. Kill me. SO I towed the dead BRAT to my new apartment (with a garage!) and there it sat. For a year and a half. Life got in the way of wrenching, but now it's time to give this beast a new life! I will be updating this picture heavy thread regularly thoughout the build. I hope it helps people and I hope you help me! -Here is how it sits now. Sad, sad BRAT.-

This may have been covered before and I just missed it, so if I did someone please just point me in the right direction... but I have been searching the forms for the past two hours and have come up with not a lot. So anyways, I was wondering what everyones favorite gear oils/lubes are for the EA81 4 speed trannys. So far it looks like Amsoil is a good choice from what I have read. I was hoping to be able to find something a little cheaper that I can get off the shelf that would work nearly as well. I know JesZek loves Motul 80W-90, but from what I have found online that stuff is insanely expensive for my thin wallet. Although Im sure it works like wonders. Has anyone tried Royal Purpel's 75W-90 synchromax? I know its just about as spendy as Amsoil, but I am curious if anyone has any experience with it so we can compare. Right now I am running the walmart supertech 75W-90 and i want to get something a little higher quality in there so I can make this little tranny last.. and shift easier in the winter months 5-speeders are more than welcome to give their experience as well! As so far it looks like they take the same oil/lube as the 4spds...

Brakes on my 82 brat are not releasing pressure after breaking. Calipers will release when I turn the bleeder screw and about a tablespoon of fluid spits out under pressure. Rubber hoses have been replaced and the caliper and piston inspected and cleaned. I'm starting to think it might be something in the hilholder/fluid diverted mechanism? The cable on the hilholder was removed long ago and adjusting by hand the hilholder lever under the master cylinder doesn't seem to do anything to help. Anyone else ever had this problem or have a suggestion? Thanks

Hello USMB! Our beloved EA81 chassis is now well over 30-years-old and the parts supply is rapidly disappearing. Rubber parts, specifically, are mostly gone. In fact, RockAuto only lists the front windshield gasket and, as of this post, there is a single gasket left to order. My proposal is that we, as a community, band together like we did for the Gen-1 windshield gasket group buy, and have a run of parts made for the EA81 chassis. Right now, I'm thinking of four parts: BRAT/wagon/sedan/hatch front windshield gasket Wagon rear windshield gasket Coupe front/rear windshield gasket The first part is common across the listed body styles, so that makes perfect sense to me. I feel like the EA81 wagon is the most common body style still on the road, so it would make sense to target that application as well. I'm not an expert and have done exactly zero research on that, but it's my gut feeling. Finally the coupe has unique front and rear windshield gaskets, so it would need its own specific parts. Based on the previous group buy, I would estimate the cost per gasket to be between $50-80. These would be BRAND NEW rubber parts, not some 30-year-old NOS that has been sitting on a dusty shelf for the last three decades. So, who is interested? The minimum order will likely be around 50-units, so I'd hope we can get close to that number of members committed to buying. If you have any questions, comments or general input, please reply below and I will update this post with the usernames of interested parties.

I have an 1983 gl (ea81/4speed tranny) and was wondering if the 5 speed tranny from an 1989 (ea82) would fit? I know about the normal modifications for a 5 speed swap. I was mostly wondering if the year difference would affect the swap...

I have a stock 1984 4wd gl wagon i want to put rear disc brakes onto instead of the stock drums. should i swap other suspension components along as well or will certain later subaru rear disc hubs bolt on?

Hey there, I recently ordered some replacement CV axles for both the front driver and passenger sides. I measured the old ones and since they were so beat up I wasn't super accurate with my measurements. I purchased new Surtrack axles online, the number of splines matched up and the length seemed right. However when I got them at my house I compared them to the old ones and they were apx. 2" longer, I thought I would try them anyways and though maybe they will compress more with some weight and and pressure. I got one in and it is definitely to long. I can get it into the steering knuckle and through the bearing all the way and put a axle nut on it all the way and get the other end on as well. The issue is now my steering knuckle is being pushed too far out from the control arm and ball joint. Does anyone have experience buying new axles for this model 1985 GL Hatchback 4spd Manual HI/LOW 4x4 1.8 OHV? Every store online that their axle will fit and has the correct splines but they are all 27 13/32 - 27 3/8 and I believe I need something closer to 25 3/8 - 26 3/8. If anyones has any suggestions or advice it would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get this Subie out on the Minnesota streets and lakes before the weather gets to warm! Thank you.

so this morning for the first time since I figured out how to start my car in cold, I had one hell of a time getting it running. as I found out a few months ago, I have to pretty much prime the engine by stepping on the gas twice before cranking and itll fire right up. however this morning after doing the same thing, it just kept cranking with out firing. tried stepping on the gas while it was cranking, and nothing. after a minute of this it finally fired, but was only holding about 500 rpm idle. that's not so unusual, as ive seen it do this idle before. when I tried to bring up the rpm, it killed it right away. start it back up, same low idle. now I can bring it up to about 1000 before it dies. try again, and it goes to about 2000 before it wants to die. I held the rpm at about 1700 for a few minutes before I saw the temp needle move, and after that it seemed fine. im guessing my carb somehow threw it self out of wack, as ive had it be hesitant to rev up when cold like the mixture is off a bit. any ideas or consensus on my idea of whats wrong? and if it is the carb, where is the mixture screw? I believe I have the hitachi carb.

So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.

Was unable to find any info on this, I'm sure it's been asked before. Will the 5 speed single range 4wd transmission from a 91 loyale bolt up to an Ea81 motor? I have an 85 brat and a spare EA81 out of another 85 brat, possibly purchasing a 5 speed single range 4wd transmission, just wondering if and what I would need to make this work. Picture of the brat for posterity.

Just installed a Weber 32/36 DEGV this weekend. I wasn't sure what to do with the vacuum port on the EGR, so I left it alone. Drove 300 miles home just fine and super smooth. Got in touch with Weber and they said to remove the screw-type plug from the front left port on the Weber, so I did. Hooked a vacuum line from that port directly to the Weber last night. This morning on the way to work, the car would hesitate and/or stumble, no noise, just bog down a bit on the acceleration and randomly pick back up. Ran fine yesterday, so I unplugged the vacuum line to the EGR. Now it runs super smooth again. Forgot to add, EGR was recently cleaned, and the intake EGR ports were cleaned during the Weber install. EGR seems to operate properly, opening and closing as I rev the throttle up and down. So, I've read that keeping the EGR is ideal, but not necessary. Am I missing something on the install, I thought it should be direct from Weber to EGR? Any explanation would be appreciated. Thx all. EA81 GL 2dr Hatch

Bought my self an 82 DL Brat that has a 32/36 dgev or dgv weber on it. Starts right up even in cold weather. Idles great but when you're giving it gas it has 2 spots that it'll start to bog down before running smoothly and what not. I'm thinking it has the wrong jetting, but I haven't messed with a weber in a few years so I'm trying to get some outside advice.

What do you guys do for sway bars on the ea cars? I want to be able to hoon around some still after I install the 5" lift, and I remember some people talking about 3 wheeling just driving on the off ramps when they're lifted this much I was thinking I could weld on some hrew/dom onto a cut down front sway bar, and thread a heim into that, with some rod style links (I know heims are supposed to mount vertical, but I don't think there is enough force to break one on these cars in this application) For the rear I was thinking finding a basic sway bar shaped like this: And then mounting it on the rear lit blocks, with the same style linkage to some custom mounts on the " a arms" of the ea suspension (most likely a plate welded to the 2 trailing arms, and then a hole/nut or a heim mounting tab. Was also debating trying to fab one onto the torsion beam, but don't know how it would respond to the heat, and the added twisting. This is all on a car that will have a frame built for it from 2x2x.25, like 88hatch has on his, but with more mount points, along with 2x5x.1875 rock sliders/rocker panels that will be tied into the frame (doing boatsides with HDPE plastic), so I think it could take the extra stress

OK- so I finally got my 1987 BRAT (big blue) running good and hooked up with a working alternator from a 94 pathfinder (seen here) and I've still got a few wiring issues and would really appreciate some help figuring them out! Problem 1: Fuel sender wire got burnt off during some welding, does anyone know where the 2 wires come out of the cab from? Wanna just take them back on a set of new wires anyway, stuff on the rear end isn't too pretty. Problem 2: Does anyone know where the power wire for the Dash/Heater control back lighting is? Power to those are out, while the headlights and stuff all work. Minor problem: The dash voltmeter ALWAYS reads full volts, no matter what. Even if the battery is pretty much dead, it just pegs itself at maximum voltage++ Thanks in advance- I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel with by BRAT. -CL

Alternator blew out last night, happened to find another super easy alternator upgrade. This alternator does not require a pulley swap unlike the altima alternator Mine came off of a 1994 pathfinder v6. But I'm fairly certain that any alternator from a Nissan vehicle equipped with a naturally aspirated VG30 (3 liter V6) will fit. Only modification needed is to grind the inside (sides facing each other) of the mounting "ears" on the side with 2 mounts. There's a bolt sleeve type thing that you'll want to grind flat. Then get a small washer and put that in between the bracket and the alt when you bolt it on. Not 100% sure if the non pivot side mount fits onto our Stock bracket, but it appears it's almost the exact same size. (my brat didn't come with that bracket, I use a bolt coming straight up out of the engine to push up the alternator). Wiring should be the same as the altima mod