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Showing results for tags 'Legacy'.
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So I know you can put the outback strut and spring assembly on a legacy L. What I was wondering is what happens you go from the r14 tires to the r15 will my speedometer not read out right and if it doesn't read out right what can I do to fix it? -
I think my stock headers finally saw their last winter this year. Rusty, exhaust leaks, and sounds like shuffling cards in front of a desk fan. Didnt help that the previous owner only used the car for occasional short trips, Ive heard this could cause the exhaust to rot from the inside out due to condensation and the such. Im currently looking at some UEL headers on ebay. Since im on a high school pre-college budget, im not looking at anything too fancy but I do want the UEL headers for better noise without a tacky obnoxious fart can. I was just wondering if anyone has done UEL headers on a second gen Legacy, and if so what did you use, how much did it cost, and did it require modifications or new cats/resonator pipe. I dont want a full, expensive exhaust system but I wouldnt be surprised if I need a new cat or two. ...or should i just buy some headers, take it to a shop and make it someone elses problem? (But oh, money money...) Also does anyone have a part number/source of the studs that hold the header to the block? Mine are beyond repair at this point. -
Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-) -
Legacy EJ25D 2.5L DOHC. Engine began running rough and idling rough a few weeks back, CEL diagnostic codes said cylinder 1 & 3 misfire. Diagnosed with a compression test. Cylinders 1 and 3 were getting 90 and 80 psi respectively. Cylinders 2 and 4 were 190 and 180 respectively. I just put the timing belt back on and re-checked compression on the right side. Cylinder 1 is now getting 210 psi, but Cylinder 3 is only getting 60. (Note---I did this before the engine was all back together, so I didn't idle it beforehand and the compression test was run on a cold engine.) I'm pretty sure I got back the power I was lacking when the timing belt slipped. Just took it for a spin and it feels about the same as I recall it in terms of acceleration. So, it's possible that cylinder has been underperforming for some time... Now that I have the results of a compression test and verified timing is like new again, is there anything further I can do without getting into expensive territory (valve work... piston rings etc.)? This is an old car (228k miles).
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I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets.
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Since I got my 97 Legacy Outback in november, the coolant gauge has never gotten above roughly 1/3 of the way up. Now that Im finally getting some nicer, warmer whether im worried about an innacurate gauge. A few times now Ive looked under the hood and seen some coolant on top of the resivoir and splashed down the front of the timing belt cover. Could this be a simple overflow? Hose is tight to the resivoir. Is there any way I can tell if I have a faulty sonsor/gauge? Or is it normal for the gauge to read 1/3 all the time after warming up? I dont take very long trips, average runs for about an hour at a time but no road trips or anything. (Dont take it on the highway often due to a cam seal leak that drips/blows onto the headers and front cat, smokes a bit) just wondering if other owners have the same reading. On a side note, how are UEL headers in comparison to stock? Currently have a small exhaust manifold leak and considering replacing them with the cheap knockoff UEL headers that are pretty much the same pricewise as knockoff EL headers. Thanks for the advice!
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I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!! -
The saga continues.... my timing belt project is turning out to be a real disaster. I bought a timing belt & water pump kit that included crankshaft & camshaft seals, and figured it was a good idea to replace them while I was at it. I tried a couple of methods to get my camshaft bolts loosened, since I didn't have the special tool. After tongue & groove pliers, a strap wrench, and a cheap plumbing wrench failed me, I managed to lock up the left-side camshafts by folding my old timing belt over a couple of times and wedging it in between the sprockets, such that the teeth on both camshaft sprockets engaged the belt. Piece of cake. Right side didn't work so well. I tucked a small wedge in between the folds of the old timing belt that time, thinking it would make the job quicker, but it had the effect of shattering the exhaust sprocket before the bolt loosened. Stupid idea, in hindsight. I didn't realize how vulnerable the sprockets would be to this kind of stress. I'm pricing out a new sprocket, but obviously I need a better way of tightening/loosening the bolts. I'm loathe to spend $60 or more on the specialty tool, since I don't know if I'll use it again on this car. I'd rather spend the same $$$ for a general-purpose tool that will serve me down the road. (That said, I'll gladly buy the specialty tool for the sake of doing it right, if no other tool will do). I thought about a chain wrench, but nobody around me carries them. I need to make sure that (1) it is good quality, don't want to spend money on junk, and (2) it will fit between the intake and exhaust sprockets, with a leather belt or something in between for protection if necessary. Brand recommendations welcome. Or, is there another alternative tool or trick instead of a chain wrench? Also---maybe a silly question, but why was this bolt so tight? Is it common practice to use a strong threadlock compound for them? If not, I have to assume someone before me tightened the everliving crap out of it. The torque I applied trying to loosen it greatly exceeded 60 ft-lbs. Thanks as always for your kind advice. I know some of my issues are probably pretty cringeworthy newbie material. :-)
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I pulled the crankshaft sprocket off of my 1999 Legacy (2.5L). It was a bear of a job and required a lot of prying. At one point I got careless and had my prybar applying pressure directly to the back of one of the tabs on the rear side of the sprocket---it snapped off. Here's a photo: I assume these tabs are used by the proximity sensor to tell the computer the crankshaft's position. Therefore I assume I must replace the part. But before I order it, I wanted to verify with the experts here. Can I get away with not replacing it? Thanks!
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Hi everyone, Let me first say that I'm a mail carrier and drive a Subaru 50,000 miles/year. I wouldn't own any other vehicle for the job. My question is on my personal car, a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5i. It is right around 183,000 miles. Last summer I did: timing belt, water pump, timing pelt tensioner/idler pulleys, front cam seals, transmission service, new spark plugs/wires. Mechanic said it has absolutely no noise in the engine. Transmission shifts smooth. I know I need to get the valve cover gaskets replaced soon, but I was wondering if there are any other things that I should be replacing at that mileage. I'm getting ready to relocate to a new city and I'm going to lose my wonderful Subaru mechanic, so I'd like to get the car setup for a while before I go. The car handles great. Steering is tight. You could honestly cover up the 1 on the dash and convince me it had 83,000 miles instead of 183k if I didn't know any better. It has high mileage, but they were all interstate miles. I plan to drive this car for a few years, so I want to make sure it's ready for it. I'm moving to a larger city, so mechanic labor is probably going to double for me. Thanks, Scott -
I was rear ended and I can't get my trunk to close. Latch is not warped or anything and I replaced the bumper. I'm guessing it's the lock on the trunk. Can anyone help me find a replacement in Northern California? I am willing to travel any distance as long as I can find this. Pick n pull in the Bay Area has no sedans only wagons. -
Howdy folks, Newbie here. I need to inspect my timing belt---suspected jumped a tooth... see earlier posts by me in the last couple of days if you're interested in the full saga. I removed radiator, accessory belts already. Last step before removing timing belt cover is the crankshaft pulley, and I don't know how to get it off. I began following this tutorial by MercedesDieselGuy on youtube He advocates a bit of a redneck method for loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt (bracing a breaker bar against the body and cranking the motor for a split-second). I applied WD-40 beforehand and followed his advice; it loosened up with no problem. (It was only later that I came across this thread where user Alias20035 said (s)he doesn't like that technique, but as far as I can tell I didn't bork it). I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt entirely, and the pulley itself stays in place. It rotates just fine (I'm using an old leather belt & vice-grips), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it to slide out. MercedesDieselGuy, in the youtube link above, recommends turning the pulley clockwise to align the hash mark with the "0" reading stamped on the timing belt cover. (Later in the vid he seems to change his mind; thinks that step may be unnecessary). In any case, I did that (using a white paint mark I found on the front face & grooves of the pulley) and it doesn't seem to help with yanking the pulley. The timing belt cover seems to be plastic---so there was nothing solid to brace against when I tried wiggling a prybar gently. Other notes: the grooves at the back of my pulley are banged up, a couple of chips, making me think previous owner &/or a sloppy mechanic had the same trouble I am having, and tried brute force. Finally, I used a small mirror and my headlamp to get a good look at the pulley's center hole. I can see a notch at the back of the pulley on one side; hard to tell if it's part of pulley or another component/bushing behind it. But if I slowly turn the pulley with my belt wrench while watching with the mirror, I can see the notch rotates with the pulley. Is that back notch the "crank key" referred to in the thread I linked above? Any advice on how to get this dang thing off? Is there a trick to it? Thank you!
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I am attempting a compression test on my 99 Legacy Outback. Only thing I need to figure out before getting started is: Where is the fuse or relay to disconnect my fuel pump? Unfortunately I don't have the Haynes manual for my vehicle. I've searched these forums and online, and been digging around my vehicle, and can't seem to find it. Hoping someone here knows. It isn't in the fuse box behind the battery, nor in the driver's side interior fuse box beneath the dash. No mention of it in the user's manual. I asked a clerk at Advance Auto who owns and works on a 2000 Subaru sedan, and she wasn't able to find it either. On hers, it was in the fuse box behind battery. Sorry for the newbie question; hopefully someone can help! Thanks.
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I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks!
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Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU
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I have my pickings off a 96' outback for parts and my body on my 1990 legacy LS wagon is a little rough in some spots and just curious if anyone has ever done this or could give me advice or anything will help. List of parts I want to swap off the outback : hood(with scoop) Grill front bumper rear bumper thanks -
I have my pickings off a 96' outback for parts and my body on my 1990 legacy LS wagon is a little rough in some spots and just curious if anyone has ever done this or could give me advice or anything will help. List of parts I want to swap off the outback : hood(with scoop) Grill front bumper rear bumper thanks
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So I was curious about doing an engine swap and from what people are telling me that I'm in over my head. My new question I need help with is I have an 09 legacy 2.5i. I want to put a turbo on it, what all do I need to do. Ive been told that it won't just bolt up without replacing every thing in the combustion chambers. -
So my dad's 93 Legacy had been backfiring on startup & idling high. I checked the timing belt marks & it seems to be off by a tooth or more. Also the driver side timing cover is broken where the cam timing mark would line up, bummer. But lined it up on passenger side & driver cam was off, even after cranking it around by hand. Well while I was working it I noticed it was an EJ20 nice surprise, I wondered why there was more room in the engine bay compared to my Legacy EJ22. Anyway is the timing belt, idler's, water pump & damn near everything else the same between the EJ20 & EJ22? Im sure the timing procedure is the same right? So a timing belt kit for a EJ22 of the same year is the same for a EJ20? Gotta fix it this weekend! Also 4EAT in the car is kinda sluggish, what would some members recommend? A complete fluid flush & new filter? Adding a In-Line tranny filter? Specific Additive or supplement? A pinched breather hose? Any opinions for "tuning up" the older 4EAT are appreciated, Thanks USMB & members for helping & saving each one us time & money on repairs & information/ And also getting to know our Subie's even better. One last thing, I'd read of some people lubricating their throw out bearings threw clutch fork window, Is that something anyone has tried/accomplished? Its risky business greasing Throw out bearing once starting to make noise when clutch engaged. I assume only options are replace it or whole clutch kit OR ignore/get used to it but prepare for consequences. My 95 Legacy makes once pedal is released. -
Hey All, My 1990 Legacy LS trunk latch is bent, and will no longer latch. Does anyone know of any where I can get a replacement, I've been looking around and cannot seem to find one. Thanks for any help you can give. PVFD1305 -
Hey everyone! New to the forums but I thought I would start out with a great mystery for everyone that I still can't seem to figure out I have a 93 Legacy L, just a hair over 200K and just did an oil change and a battery pull roughly 30 miles before this incident. I'm driving about 4 miles, cold car, doing a little under 30mph. My AC is on but engine temp is low and no cel or anything. I slow to turn and clutch in to shift into second, when I suddenly lose power steering part way through the turn! I safely pull over and notice CEL, Battery, and maybe one other light (Oil?), I really can't remember because I shut it off so quickly. I stood there for 20 minutes just inspecting the engine trying to figure out what could possibly cause all those symptoms. Turned the AC off and it started up like nothing had happened and drove the 1/2 mile home. The idle was erratically low but it has been all week because of the battery negative pull. The car is also showing no data for the check engine either. Now I know my negative terminal clamp needs to be replaced, but if it fell off it would be totally dead and not partial. All fluids were normal, no power steering leaks, and the belts were perfectly fine (no burnt smell either indicating seized AC compressor). I've heard suggestions of an alternator, but the alternator is somewhat new and tests fine for voltage. I really have no other problems with this car besides a chattery clutch when cold So here's where it gets weird...This was my dad's car previously (Bought New), and he said it's done this once or twice randomly before with the exact same symptoms and no lasting effects or symptoms. Now he also owns an 08 Outback that he claims has done this once before too, which adds to my utter bafflement. Now take his claims with a grain of salt; I wasn't there and it they could have been different enough to just be another matter entirely, but still odd nonetheless. I've been over this a thousand times and I just can't make heads or tails...If anybody has any insight it would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully I didn't break any rules already by making such a huge wall of text, but thank you all for reading/submitting, and I look forward to posting some of my own responses around here in the future! -
My 97 legacy obw has the ej25d motor and is now knocking quite noticably what would be the best approach to fix rebuild or swap out -
I recently picked up a 96 legacy OB, 190k miles, fairly complete maintenance records to 175k, EJ22 motor, manual tranny. The engine makes a ton of noise, which I have gathered is normal, but the ticking / knocking is louder than most videos I have looked at. Initially i assumed lifter tick - replaced 1 qt oil with MMO, drove around. 500 miles later, not difference, if anything it is louder now... Bought some valve cover gaskets, plan to pull the lifters this weekend and see what they look like. Thought it might be a fuel injector, so i tried disconnecting each of the injectors on the driver side one at a time, no difference. symptoms: coming from driver side head (seemingly). louder from above the engine than if i crawl underneath. Tried to do some ghetto stethoscoping, but wasnt able to pinpoint it. Noise is present cold OR warm, idle or rev, coast or accelerate. Noise does get a little quieter when warm, but is still very much present. car drives fine, doesnt have all that much power, but I am not familiar enough with the ej22 to know if it is "normal" or not. No CEL or pending trouble codes in the computer (once i cleared the ones from my injector test ). video of engine running here: http://youtu.be/gzz8o9zHDYE I also looked at the sound clip, tick is every 2 engine revolutions, unfortunately most everything it could be happens once every 2 revs... it sounds too high pitch to be a rod knock, too deep to be lifter tick, too quiet under the engine to be a crank bearing, could be piston slap? I think piston slap would change more as it warms up, and it is never really cold here in CA, so the engine is never started all that cold. Plus I though piston slap would get quieter with a disconnected fuel injector? any suggestions would be appreciated! I love my sooby, but its a bit embarrassing to drive through downtown like this.... -
Recently bought a 93 Legacy wagon off Craigslist for my father to commute to work out of town. It runs good and is used to commute 250mi's a week (highway drive 125mi there & 125mi back). I check it out every weekend when he gets back. THE MAIN issue is it backfires thru intake at startup & the idle is high, only when engine is cold! After it warms up it runs better & idles fine. It had the Bosch 4 prong platinum spark plugs, runs better with copper NGK's, but still backfiring. I cleaned the PVC vavle, MAF sensor, IACV, & throttle body also. Had the exhaust checked out & they replaced 1 of the cats but not sure if they really checked EVERYTHING out. Previous owner had replaced the plugs/wires & air filter. I've researched this & came across a few possibilities but the car runs fine once warmed up. coolant temp sensor could be failing-dumping too much fuel at warm up. Timing belt could have jumped a tooth. Exhaust leak near the head or at the Y-pipe allowing air in & then closing when warmed up. Low or uneven compression. These are some of the problems that I read can cause a backfire but the car runs really nice once warmed up. Another issue is the speedo doesn't work. Check engine light is on for Vehicle Speed Sensor. And the POWER light for the trans blinks when you turn the key on. I figure that the tranny Control Unit senses the VSS & is why power light blinks. So does this mean the Tranny is in a "SAFE MODE" not performing at its best because the computer sensed a problem? It feels like it could have more acceleration & performance is what im getting at. Any helpful suggestions, comments, questions or information is highly appreciated! THANKS.
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Car Information: 1997 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan, 2.5L DOHC Hi there, Im hoping that someone may be able to tell me why the ignition coils I had delivered for my car are not the correct ones, I've searched and searched and every coil-pack I come across is depicted as the ones I received. However the stock pack I'm attempting to replace Is a much smaller pack: Diamond F-560. The new pack will not bolt and does not possess the same connecting pin. My engine has not been swapped, I know it is a 2.5L EJ25 as I had the timing belt done about a year ago. I've been reading that my year was a "transition" year and that I may have a certain type of pack. Does anyone know about this? I'm really looking forward to continuing my troubleshooting for a misfire and I was hoping this might have been the fix. Thanks in advance for the time!