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Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
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So I was curious about doing an engine swap and from what people are telling me that I'm in over my head. My new question I need help with is I have an 09 legacy 2.5i. I want to put a turbo on it, what all do I need to do. Ive been told that it won't just bolt up without replacing every thing in the combustion chambers. -
Hey everyone! New to the forums but I thought I would start out with a great mystery for everyone that I still can't seem to figure out I have a 93 Legacy L, just a hair over 200K and just did an oil change and a battery pull roughly 30 miles before this incident. I'm driving about 4 miles, cold car, doing a little under 30mph. My AC is on but engine temp is low and no cel or anything. I slow to turn and clutch in to shift into second, when I suddenly lose power steering part way through the turn! I safely pull over and notice CEL, Battery, and maybe one other light (Oil?), I really can't remember because I shut it off so quickly. I stood there for 20 minutes just inspecting the engine trying to figure out what could possibly cause all those symptoms. Turned the AC off and it started up like nothing had happened and drove the 1/2 mile home. The idle was erratically low but it has been all week because of the battery negative pull. The car is also showing no data for the check engine either. Now I know my negative terminal clamp needs to be replaced, but if it fell off it would be totally dead and not partial. All fluids were normal, no power steering leaks, and the belts were perfectly fine (no burnt smell either indicating seized AC compressor). I've heard suggestions of an alternator, but the alternator is somewhat new and tests fine for voltage. I really have no other problems with this car besides a chattery clutch when cold So here's where it gets weird...This was my dad's car previously (Bought New), and he said it's done this once or twice randomly before with the exact same symptoms and no lasting effects or symptoms. Now he also owns an 08 Outback that he claims has done this once before too, which adds to my utter bafflement. Now take his claims with a grain of salt; I wasn't there and it they could have been different enough to just be another matter entirely, but still odd nonetheless. I've been over this a thousand times and I just can't make heads or tails...If anybody has any insight it would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully I didn't break any rules already by making such a huge wall of text, but thank you all for reading/submitting, and I look forward to posting some of my own responses around here in the future! -
I recently picked up a 96 legacy OB, 190k miles, fairly complete maintenance records to 175k, EJ22 motor, manual tranny. The engine makes a ton of noise, which I have gathered is normal, but the ticking / knocking is louder than most videos I have looked at. Initially i assumed lifter tick - replaced 1 qt oil with MMO, drove around. 500 miles later, not difference, if anything it is louder now... Bought some valve cover gaskets, plan to pull the lifters this weekend and see what they look like. Thought it might be a fuel injector, so i tried disconnecting each of the injectors on the driver side one at a time, no difference. symptoms: coming from driver side head (seemingly). louder from above the engine than if i crawl underneath. Tried to do some ghetto stethoscoping, but wasnt able to pinpoint it. Noise is present cold OR warm, idle or rev, coast or accelerate. Noise does get a little quieter when warm, but is still very much present. car drives fine, doesnt have all that much power, but I am not familiar enough with the ej22 to know if it is "normal" or not. No CEL or pending trouble codes in the computer (once i cleared the ones from my injector test ). video of engine running here: http://youtu.be/gzz8o9zHDYE I also looked at the sound clip, tick is every 2 engine revolutions, unfortunately most everything it could be happens once every 2 revs... it sounds too high pitch to be a rod knock, too deep to be lifter tick, too quiet under the engine to be a crank bearing, could be piston slap? I think piston slap would change more as it warms up, and it is never really cold here in CA, so the engine is never started all that cold. Plus I though piston slap would get quieter with a disconnected fuel injector? any suggestions would be appreciated! I love my sooby, but its a bit embarrassing to drive through downtown like this.... -
My 97 legacy obw has the ej25d motor and is now knocking quite noticably what would be the best approach to fix rebuild or swap out -
Car Information: 1997 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan, 2.5L DOHC Hi there, Im hoping that someone may be able to tell me why the ignition coils I had delivered for my car are not the correct ones, I've searched and searched and every coil-pack I come across is depicted as the ones I received. However the stock pack I'm attempting to replace Is a much smaller pack: Diamond F-560. The new pack will not bolt and does not possess the same connecting pin. My engine has not been swapped, I know it is a 2.5L EJ25 as I had the timing belt done about a year ago. I've been reading that my year was a "transition" year and that I may have a certain type of pack. Does anyone know about this? I'm really looking forward to continuing my troubleshooting for a misfire and I was hoping this might have been the fix. Thanks in advance for the time! -
Hi folks, New member here. Joined the other day in order to get started on research for a clutch replacement in my '99 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L (228,000 miles---purchased at 198,000). I've got a gearhead friend helping me with the repair in 3 weeks, and doing all the reading and Youtubing I can in the meantime. Seems like we'll be able to pull this off. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a clutch kit, but had a question about non-OEM kit quality. I was planning to just pick up the Exedy OEM kit (KSB04): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2392652&cc=1389405 However, a friend said it's very worthwhile to go ahead and grab a kit that contains a worn snout sleeve---also called PDM sleeves. I checked out the video here which is very good for describing the issue and its solution: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-transmission-housing-repair-kit/ Now, the sleeves on their own are pretty pricey at some suppliers, ballpark $150. That's on top of a clutch kit, which would be $140 or $150 for OEM at Ebay or Rock Auto (link above). On the other hand, there are some kits that include the sleeve, and my friend indicated that these are significantly cheaper in part because it's a different method of fabrication. Specifically, I'm looking at AMS Automotive part 15004R. Here's the link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1524032&cc=1389405 Questions: 1. Should I be overly concerned about the drastic difference between the price of fancy Six Star sleeves sold by specialty suppliers, and the ones included in kits like the AMS kit I linked above? 2. How is the quality of AMS clutch kits? They advertise "rigorous OEM spec" - but does that mean I'm guaranteed the same quality as an OEM Exedy kit? If there's any doubt, I would prefer to go with Exedy. I don't know where AMS kits are manufactured. Should I worry about this? I don't want this to give out after another 20,000 miles! Thank you. I'm happy to answer any follow-up questions if any of this is unclear. This will be my first clutch replacement so I'm learning a lot as I go. -
I've got a 97 Legacy Outback that needs an alternator, and I just so happened to have an Extra 92 Legacy Alternator. The positive plug ins are different but everything else matches up so I'm going out on a limb and assuming the 92 Alternator will work for the 97. Is there a way to make these plugs compatible? -
Suspension on my '95 Legacy is pretty shot (well at the least the rear for sure) I keep hearing that Outback struts will bolt right up and lift the car about 1.5 to 2 inches. I think this is a great idea. But I feel like there is more to it? Do I need outback springs? spacers? anything like that. If anyone can give me any leads/video's/info on this swap. That'd be Great. thanks- travis -
I just joined the Subaru club! Scored a sweet deal on a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT with 84k miles on it. The car is practically perfect on maintenance, everything that could be replaced was with the best parts on the market. What little upgrades could I do to this car? I've read that adding a 2 1/4 inch thrush muffler would make it sound a lot better, is this true? Thanks! -
Another A/T Binding Issue, my apologies Vehicle: 1997 Legacy L Sedan (203,000 miles) Engine: 2.2 Liter Transmission: 4EAT Symptoms: Severe binding during turns, even slight deviation from straight ahead. Seems to lack power but that could be normal, as this is my first experience with Subaru. Checks performed: Tires and wheels match, pressure checked OK FWD fuse installed, binding relieved but transmission noisy (whine) ECU and TCM code retrieval procedure performed, no codes present (2hz) Checked ATF, looked old/burnt, drained and refilled once (will repeat) Checked Differential gear oil, at proper level and seemed fine Checked rear end, lifted rear of car with transmission in neutral, both wheels rotate freely and rotating either results in opposite wheel remaining stationary or opposite rotation. Manually rotated driveline, results in both wheels rotating in the same direction, everything seems free, no resistance noted Checks in progress: Disconnect 16 pin multi-connector aft of throttle body on bell housing and check resistance of each sensor/solenoid If all sensor/solenoids measure correctly, reconnect and check voltages/resistances at TCM Help, Advice Requested!!! Am I proceeding down a logical path for the symptom noted or should I be heading elsewhere? Please advise! Electrical Engineer playing mechanic with Daughter's car! Thanks Navet Update, Sensor/Solenoid resistance readings: Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 450-720 Ohms (expected) 541 Ohms (Actual) Correct ATF Temperature Sensor 2100-2900 Ohms @ 68F 4200 Ohms @ ~35F (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "A" 1.5-4.5 Ohms (Expected) 3.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "B" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 13.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 1 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.5 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 2 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.4 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 3 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 25 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "C" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 33 Ohms (Actual) Houston, I think we have Problem! I assume this means Solenoid "C" is bad? looking for confirmation before I pull the tail shaft housing. Thanks again. -
I have a 2005 stock legacy. The dealership quoted me damn near 1000 dollars to fix my heater core. Unfortunately I can't afford that. It has yet to cause any major problem, temp gauge has been normal, the only thing that's been happening is my window fogs up when the car is off, and when the heater is on it smells like something's burning. I am a 21 year old woman and not terribly familiar with subarus yet, as it's my first, but I need help. Does anyone in the Pacific Northwest (Portland metro area) know of anyone who could fix it for cheaper than a grand? -
I need some help with an odd electrical issue. (I could not find any existing threads on this, but please point me toward them if they exist!) This is a 1993 Legacy L Wagon with 226k. About a year ago, during the cold Chicago winter, I started noticing the following behavior. At random times, the entire electrical system in the car experiences what seems to be a pulsating voltage change, like a sine wave, at around 80-120 Hz. All the lights pulsate bright-dim bright-dim in unison, and I can hear the cabin fan spin faster/slower in unsion with the lights. Sometimes, the Brake warning light on the instrument cluster will flash on and off in unison as well. I know that the Brake light coming on is a failure mode for the alternator. The alternator is quite new and I had it and the rest of the charging system checked last year - it's all fine. I replaced the battery (needed it anyway) and also the plugs and wires (was having a starting problem). No change. Over the summer, I did not notice this issue. This week, as the cold sets in again (30-50 F), I see the same issue. The only suggestion I've heard is to check the grounds, but since the issue seems related to cold weather, I'm not sure that is the issue. I will have them checked at next service. Any ideas on this? Thanks! -
Haven't done anything like this before and need some advice. I just recently bought a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited and the stereo needs to go. It's a single din and only has a tape deck and radio and the tape deck doesn't work. Found a guy selling a 2002 Subaru Impreza/Wrx double din within my range. I have the schematics to take everything apart to get to the radio but will I be running into problems with it being an 02 double din stereo going into a 97 set up for a single din and what I'll need to make this change? (have the extra compartment below the stereo that I will take out to make it fit a double din). Thanks -
So my legacy should be getting around 20 mpg city but is only getting about 15. It also has the slight smell of gas when you start it first thing in the morning but that goes away after you start driving. I looked around and the most likely suggestion was a bad o2 sensor. What do you all think of this diagnosis or any other ideas? I can answer any questions to help out. -
I'm trying to track down a vehicle option that I've only ever seen once before. My brother wants one for his OBW, but I can't seem to find any record of them even existing. In my 1997 legacy outback limited there was a hard plastic cargo organizer/tray. It was about 8-9 inches deep and had removable dividers. It filled/covered the entire floor of the hatch area. This was in addition to the rubber/plastic giant floor mat at everyone has in their outback. This bin/organizer/tray/whatever sat on top of the normal mat. It was stamped with SUBARU. It came from the dealer. It was awesome. I have never seen another like it and I can find no mention of it in any searches. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? it just occurred to me that I've been referring to this thing in the past-tense. I still have it. It is has been made to fit my forester. If it will help, I can brave the frigid cold and try to clear all of the junk out of it and get a picture. -
Hello all!! First let me say this is by far the most impressive Subaru discussion site I've found! Trust me, I've spent countless hours searching for an answer to my puzzle. My problem, 93 legacy non turbo. I noticed a while back while driving at steady highway speed suddenly the car would feel almost as if it were running out of gas. It was to the point where I could push the pedal to the floor and nothing would happen. I would pull off the road thinking I needed to call the hook as the engine dies. However, it would start right back up and back on the road I was! This happened mabye 5 times over a period of probably a year so I didnt put all that much thought into it. It has 218000 on it so if it has a couple quarks so be it I thought. However it seems it recent months that it has slowly lost more and more power, whether this is a related issue I can't say with full certainty at this time. It has now come to the point that it will start and idle but has NO power even out of gear. The car will not move until the engine has warmed for 15 to 20 mins. Even after that I still wont drive it in heavy traffic. It is just too sluggish. Fuel eco is significantly lowered also (from about 23mpg to mabye 15 or 16mpg.) The list of things I have done: The basics plugs, wires, fuel and air filters Engine coolant temp sensor (twice) also this significantly improved the ease of starting but none of the driveability Verified fuel pressure Verified vacuum line condition and the breather condition Verified mass air sensor with a known good unit Timing belt complete kit installed within 20,000 miles so it shouldnt be out of time My best bet I have found was in these discussions where someone had traced poor running and random loosing power completly to the JITECO 25229 AA001 ignition relay. I was going to try this but locating one has been a joke. Also I read where a user had cross referenced to another part # available at Advance but I have been unable to locate that either. Does anyone know of an availble new direct fit replacement? Also I'm open to any other suggestions of my issue. I'm sure mine isnt the only one acting up. Just a side note, while I will post updates, I dont get to mess with the car very often. I left it at a family members house when I moved to Missouri as I had 5 cars when I moved from Ohio. Getting anything done with vehicles as far as titling and registering in this state is a joke and an embarrassment. I left it there for that reason and so that when the wife and I drive back to Ohio, we each have something to drive. My folks drive it once or twice a week just to keep it from sitting. So I will be somewhat slow to be able it say it is fixed or not. I go back every month or two. Thank you in advance! -
Just purchased a beautiful 1998 Outback Legacy. One of the small details I dislike about it is the wood trim pieces. Any thoughts? Replacement? Swap? -
Hey guys, I'm new here. I currently have an 01 Legacy GT Limited with about 118k miles on it. Love this car, no mechanical problems at all. However, I've been eyeing a 1995 SVX LSi with 92k miles on it, for $2k. First question, is this a good deal? Exterior and interior look clean, I haven't taken it for a spin yet but the seller doesn't list any mechanical issues. Second question, am I crazy for wanting to get rid of my 01 Legacy for this? Like I said, I love my car, but I want something a little more powerful and sporty. This SVX seems like a good choice for me, because I love having the safety of AWD, but want something with a little more kick. Basically, I plan on buying this car and giving my current Subie to my sister who is currently a broke college student. Is it a bad call for me to get rid of my current ride, for this one? Thanks guys. -
I was trying to remove the balljoint pinch bolt from the steering knuckle in my 2001 Legacy and the head sheared right off. If I were able to get in and drill out the bolt without damaging the threads, does anybody know the sizing of the bolt I would use to replace it? Any pointers on removing the old bolt are appreciated too... It's my first time attempting to replace a sheared bolt like this one! -
So I just picked up a 97 Legacy Outback with 130k for $3000. It had the stock radio in it until one day I took it out to hook up a sub and amp. When I took the stereo out I tore 2 wires on accident. A yellow wire and a green and white wire. I connected them and put the radio back in seeing as it isn't compatible with a sub or amp. The radio wasn't working so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse, still no radio, ensured the wires that tore were connected and they were. Still nothing. Think I fried the radio? Im about to go on a 4 hour road trip in a few days and I want some tunes. Help?
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hey guys, just had a question. Buying a car on vancouver island, going back up north soon, and found what seems to be a good one. 1993 legacy ls with 124k kilometres on it. only real issue i see is the subaru mechanic working on it says it needs a computer, because overdrive wont work. seems to drive kinda meh without it. seems tranny is working irratic without the new computer, but with one, could be good. they want 2200 for it with comp, but would probably have to buy the car first. tranny fluid and oil have been checked/changed and are clean. Just when you step on it, it over revs, seems to want to switch to overdrive. Do you have any suggestions about what else might be wrong with car? as i said, seems to be all good, i just want to know if thd computer will make a definite difference to the shifting ability and all. they are also selling a 98 forester with apparently new gaskets, with 190k, but he also wont budge on 4000 for that one.
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Hey Subaru Nation - I have a 1992 Legacy 2.2 (non-turbo) and I'm trying to diagnose some idling issues. The car runs fine but once its warmed up it begins to surge idle at stops (sometimes stalling). I had a cracked air intake and I replaced it with no resolve and I've cleaned out the throttle body and I'm currently replacing the Idle air control valve with a new one (new gaskets all around). My next option is replacing the mass air flow sensor. My current sensor has 5 pins and all of the replacements I've seen online have 5 slots but only 4 pins?? Does it matter? Will the 4 pin work the same? Also if anyone has any further ideas or sollutions for idling issues - I'm much appreciative. I've also changed out the coolant/thermostat. Thanks for the help! -
Hi all, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I'm trying to find a good mechanic in the Raleigh/Durham/Cary area to do a head gasket job on my 97 outback. I took it to a dealer who just tried to get me to trade it in, so I want to find someone who wants to repair the car, not just sell me a new one. Any recommendations? -
I recently have been helping a friend "repair" her 2000 Legacy Outback from a recent collision with an ELK!!! Hood, smashed, and drivers headlight busted and pushed in. Fender dented in but not crumpled back into door at all. Most of the force was in the "fall" of the elk onto the hood more than the "hit" pushing in. But anyhow...... The car had previously been "repaired" from a front end collision, so the passenger side headlight was already sunk in a tad. I sourced a '03 Baja hood and headlight.....cheap...with a bit of wrinkles but should match the car well since the fenders are not perfect, and the Bumper skin is gone. (a lift and bullbar are coming soon.....so the mad max...not so perfect look is fine) After bolting it all up,...it seems the hood and headlight are 3/4 inch or so longer than they should be. It really doesn't seem like the rad support is that far off. In fact it measures out to within 1/4" of a stock undamaged reference car. But still the hood and driver headlight are noticably farther forward in front than the headlight on the other side. Does anyone no if there is a difference in these hoods headlights? did they make the front end longer a hair when they introduced the H6? And Baja didn't have an H6 so why would they be longer? Or is something still just "off" with the front support piece? Anyone? -
Hey Everyone. I have a '95 Legacy LS. I'm pretty sure it's about time to change the struts. I believe they are original parts on a legacy with 350k on it. I was thinking about putting some outback struts on it, hopefully giving it 1 to 1-1/2 inch lift. Just enough room for a slightly more aggressive tire. I'm not sure if I can just swap the struts out or do I need to swap other parts out in addition to make it all compatible. Thanks for any input you have Travis.
