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Showing results for tags 'Brat'.
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A video where I ask the question: Is this ok? Slop at rear axle, drum removed The bearing can slide in and out with very little pressure.
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Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus. -
The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same. Are the exhaust systems the same? -
My 85 Brat started and ran a month ago, then it sat for a month. I tried to start it, the engine would maybe 1/2 turn over with each try. Things I did Replace battery with a proven strong one. Clean battery terminals, and cable clamps, clean engine ground connection, clean positive cable connection at starter. I can swap parts with my healthy 1984 GL! What should my next step be?
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Once again, thank you for being here. Henceforth, I will be asking questions, perhaps putting my 2¢ in now and again, instead of pouring over tons of threads that may or may not suit my particular needs. A Wealth of gl wagon parts here btw.
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I have an 82 brat. Originally I was going to swap the carb to fuel injected. I've done it and drove it round the block a few times. But now it won't start. Pretty sure its trouble with the disty. I have decided to scrap that. I just picked up a 90 legacy with 160000 on it for 400 bucks. It runs and drives fine but overheats I need to change the water pump. My goal is to strip the legacy of parts to swap into my brat. My brat will soon have a 4 inch lift kit. I would like to use a 5spd Dr in this swap, but I keep getting conflicting thoughts on this. I can get the adapter plate no problem. Questions: 1. What will I need to do, other than the adapter plate, to make the 5SPD DR work in the brat with the ej22. 2. How can I use the powersteering from the EJ. 3. What do I need to do to retain the AC from the EJ. The brat is ready equipped for ac but it was not installed. I know these things have been gone over and over. I have the write up for the EJ swap from @numbchux but I need more info and I want to help get updated info out there When I have all the parts together and I begin this process. I will be doing a write up and also possibly make a YouTube series on this process from start to finish. So any help would be appreciated so we can get the info out to people who are interested in doing this . -
I have an 82 brat I am swapping to Fuel injection using @GeneralDisorder guide. The return line under the intake is 3/16 hose and try as I might I can't figure out how to adapt it to fuel injection hose as FI does not come that small. And the return line from Throttle body is like 5/16. Ideas? Also the throttle cable does not reach the throttle. What have you guys who have done these swaps done in order to fix these issues.
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I have an 82 brat I am swapping to Fuel injection using @GeneralDisorder guide. I have everything in place and wired up. My issues are as follows. I am only getting 6 volts at the coil. And I'm not getting any spark. My fuel pump works. But only shoots fuel when it is hard wired. It won't turn on in test mode. Nor when I crank it I don't think. The ecu blinks at me when my key is in on which is a good thing I think And the engine turns over. I have looked and read, then looked and read, then looked and read again through the guide and my harness and I really believe I have everything hooked up correctly. Minus the neutral switch and cel wire. Any any any help would be Uber appreciated!!!
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Alright, so after some research I'm about ready to start an engine rebuild of my ea81. I'm going to use this thread to keep track of my misadventures as I work through attempting to redo an engine that has little to no parts availability, so that you don't have to experience my pain. Videos of the rebuild will most likely end up on my youtube channel. First thing's first. The vehicle that is in need of a rebuild is none other than my rusted-out, ex-daily driver 1984 Subaru brat. I purchased this heap for 400 dollars when I was 14 years old. By purchased, I mean I worked 50 hours for a farmer during harvest at 8 dollars an hour and in exchange recieved the privilage of cleaning his pasture for him so I could liberate it. It was my first car and first project. I drug it out of said pasture here in the midwestern united states, checked the oil, fixed the mouse-eaten wiring to the fuel pump, aired up the 30 year old tires, and drove my new to me 92,000 mile car home and proceeded to park it for 2 years, occasionally starting it up. when I got my license I changed the oil and dailied it for about a year, just around my VERY VERY small town and occasionally going 30 miles to walmart for groceries. once I hit 93000 miles the engine started to make a knocking noise, and then it started not wanting to run. So I stopped making it. I figured id rather have bearings to replace than an entire engine. In the coming months, I realized just how poor parts availability for the ea81 is. but that's why I'm making this thread, right? Occasionally, rockauto has parts like the bearings available, but only occasionally, so I have been trying to find an alternative source thats a little more *ahem* reliable. I had heard that the ea81 shares the same main/rod bearings as the ea82 and er27. If anyone can confirm this I would greatly appreciate it. That's all I've got for now. I'll check back in once I start pulling the engine and know what all I need Ciao Subarute
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Starting my 1984 brat project. Gonna lift it and do a ton of other fun stuff to it. Some parts already on the way. Is there a better way to search parts than eBay? The eBay searches are dreadful. Is there a way to share picture here larger than a file size from 2002?
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The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
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I just bought a 1985 Brat!! I am pretty sure the parts are the same as my ‘84 GL Wagon. I need to replace the windshield. It is the same as a GL, 1984, right? I am in St. louis, and the closest windshield I can find is in Chicago. Group mind, do you have any suggestions? mkoch
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Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?
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As the title suggest i am curious about getting more power from my 89 Subaru Brat. I've been thinking about an ej swap but I'm in love with the ea 81 and would like to refrain from engine swapping. Any ways to pump some power from this little thing?
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Hey Guys, I've been recommended to replace my ea81 distributor in my 1988 brumby to an electronic distributor (if I can find one) Symptoms: resistance while driving - jolting movement - intermittent miss. Has anybody else had this issue? Im looking for the exact part to replace but unsure where to find and what exactly to be looking for. can this play in the shaft cause the timing to be off? Thanks in advance. Drew -
Convert FWD to RWD and keep 4x4 Brumby
Cinereus posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi, I’ve got a Brumby (Brat) and I want to convert from FWD to RWD without losing 4x4. Is it possible? -
...before it happened. Or at least it should have. Hindsight is 20/20. The 3rd eye harness is very close to the battery. Rats were hungry and ate some of the insulation off of the red and black wires in the harness. Went to pull the battery to use in a different car; took off the negative terminal first, and then wrecklessly set it down in front of the battery, with the positive terminal still connected. Before I could undo the positive terminal I heard a "snick" similar to a fuse popping. The negative terminal had brushed those exposed wires... either the red, or black, or both. Now the highbeams work, as well as the "beam" icon on the dash. But once the 3rd eye button is pressed, neither it or the "center light" icon on the dash work. The 3rd eye was funtional before, door and light. McBrat, the one who built the straight-axle '82 Brat, had a diagram on "Indys World . com" but unfortunately that site is no longer up. What kind of tests can I do? Did I blow a relay or worse the 3rd eye?
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Hi All, My 83 Brat GL has a new issue, it is overheating during normal drives around town. It is blasting hot coolant into the overflow bottle. The main fan is running all the time, so I'm guessing the water pump needs replacement? All the hoses and clamps are good. Any help really appreciated!
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Hey everyone! I am swapping an EJ22 in my 1982 Brat GL and when I looked under my donor car (1991 Legacy) I realized that it was not all wheel drive (dumb mistake). I have decided to go with swapping the EJ22 engine and adapting it to the 4 speed transmission from my donor car. I thought this was an okay swap, but someone has told me that "the ej22 will burn through that 4 speed trans." I am apprehensive because I don't want to blow that transmission, but I also can't really afford another car/transmission/engine. Should I go through with the ej22 and 4 speed?
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Hi All! I'm still having trouble starting my 83 Brat GL, I thought it was weather related during the winter months here in NYC, but it's still happening in this hot, hot summer! I bought a $300 800 cca Odyssey battery, changed all the cables, and the car does eventually start, it's just very finicky from a fresh start. I was at a parts house last night and a guy heard me having the issue and said there is something called a pickup coil under the distributor, or that is part of it. Does that make any sense to anyone? Any help on this greatly appreciated. Once the engine is started and warms up, restarting it isn't an issue. It's just the fresh start. Thanks again!
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I had an old post months ago about the cracks in my heads and several of you said put them back on, its very common. My salvage motor has head gasket failure, warpage on the head and spark plug hole has stripped threads. If my old heads don't need to be machined would I be able to just slap them on? I don't know where the bubbles in cooling system in my old motor were coming from, but I assumed the head cracks. I would replace the valve seals on the cracked head. Thanks
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I had an old post months ago about the cracks in my heads and several of you said put them back on, its very common. My salvage motor has head gasket failure, warpage on the head and spark plug hole has stripped threads. If my old heads don't need to be machined would I be able to just slap them on? I don't know where the bubbles in cooling system in my old motor were coming from, but I assumed the head cracks. I would replace the valve seals on the cracked head. Thanks
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For all of those out there contemplating an EJ conversion, this is one of the reasons why buying a donor vehicle can be easier - especially for the first timer. But with that said, this is how I've gone about it twice now - building a conversion from parts of several cars - why? Mainly because I've been given parts from some good mates which only require me to get the main bits like the engine and some supporting pieces that are needed for all conversions. Space constraints of renting can be prohibitive to having a donor vehicle on the property too. So this is how I "bench" test my engine and cutdown loom (plus it's good fun). Loom was cut down last week and the test done this weekend gone. Everything wiring wise checks out. Engine wise I have a code 35 (purge control solenoid valve) and no knocking on start up Now it'll get some preventative maintenance such as head gaskets while it remains out of the vehicle. https://youtu.be/vBXrmIzWiZY I reckon @sparkyboy will wet his pants at this and I kind of hope a few more of you will too (and be inspired to do your own conversions!). I've since fitted a radiator and run it for a longer period of time. I'm hoping to do this again later in the week, not that I have to, but I would like to see the light for the fan trigger to come on... This will end up in my Brumby once both engine and vehicle are ready. Cheers Bennie -
Hi All and Happy Summer! I just lost an auction on eBay for the chromed, snap on center strip for the Brat GL 1983 front bumper. This is a bull-nosed chrome strip that mounts onto the front bumper with snaps, above the license plate in the center of the bumper. I'm willing to pay up to $100 including shipping to 10301 for a really clean strip in great condition. Thanks! -
Just bought an 82 Brat and I’m stoked! Unfortunately it’s missing the spare tire. I visited a few local shops to no avail. I realize I should just pony up and do a 5 lug conversion but I want to do as faithful a restoration as possible. Any advice on compatible wheels and where they can be found?
