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Showing results for tags 'EA81'.
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Video of truck: Starts off stationary - at operating temp 0:10 - 0:30 then fwd 1st at 0:31 - 0:49 4wd lo first gear 0:50 into second last 10 seconds is 4wd lo 2nd gear, but going slow. Only speedo tach and thermometer work. I have oil pressure, and I'm not pushing 18v. I've done a new weber carb, fuel filters, plugs, plug wires, coil, and egr delete. Oil and filter are fresh These are the stock redline Weber subaru kit jets, with the short air filter, and a free flow (hollow cat, single muffler) exhaust Any ideas on what I should do next? This has been the problem my almost my entire time owning this thing, would be great to finally be able to floor it without killing it.
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Greetings, I did a little work on the 1985 BRAT this weekend. I finally got rid of that pesky EGR valve warning light. Following the advice of others on this forum I learned that the light comes on every 60,000 miles irrespective of EGR status. As wikipidia states, the function of EGR is to reduce emissions: The light comes on to remind you to remove the EGR valve and perform a cleaning procedure that is described in the service manual. Some folks perform this, some ignore it, and some install a delete kit that looks like this: Which ever way you choose to go, this will not reset the light. To do this you must get up under the dash and swap a single electrical connection (at 60k) from Blue to blue to Blue to Green. At 120k you reverse the swap back to Blue to Blue. I performed the swap this weekend and spent a good amount of time under the dash looking at the rats nest to find the appropriate connections. Below are some photos to document the procedure so as to help others. First take the panel off below the steering wheel, to reveal the wiring. The wires in question will be found behind the fuse box area. See the Blue connector behind the fuse box in this photo for the actual location: Once you find this, unplug the cable and locate a similar looking plug in the opposite color. Here is a look at all three plugs. You may need to do some fidgeting to provide enough slack to make the connection. Here is what the final connection looks like: One word of caution. by spending so much time crawling under the dash, I managed to break my step assembly trim component (the plastic thing that says subaru next to the seat). This was a major bummer. Take precautions not to put too much weight on this piece. Cheers, Chris -
I'm getting a couple ea81 turbos soon, - one with a bad bottom end, the other is assumed running condition - and I'm considering using the good ea81t in a ea82 wagon with SPFI. I don't have the ecu's or the MPFI wiring. Here's what I'm thinking: -EA81T block w stock turbo cam -EA82T Heads shaved .025", maybe not( I'm aware of the change in valve geometry) -EA82 Pistons(compression bump) -EA82 SPFI (Already in the car) Ok so I've dropped ea81's into ea82 cars before with spfi, but I have no experience with the turbo ea81s. I'm not gonna use the MPFI injectors, but they'll stay to plug the injector holes. Once I get the compression up, my big question is the EA81 cam...will it be worthwhile? Gutless(more gutless than a stock ea81 under ea82 spfi)? I'm not interested in building an ea81 turbo, but I have these parts and I wouldn't mind a running engine. I couldn't find any info in going from ea81 turbo-->ea81 non-turbo w/ spfi or weber, any input is appreciated! TIA Josh
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Hello Everyone, I just picked up this car with an EA81 with bent pushrods. I have the engine out, on a makeshift bench and ready to fix the issue. This is my first time working on an engine, so I will need your help and guidance. Really looking forward to ripping this thing apart and finally seeing what happens inside this thing. Preliminary questions: What are some good must-have resource for the job I am undertaking What special tools will i need What are big DON'TS while ripping this apart I am doing this for the first time and really want to understand the inns and outs, language, terms so any resources I should check out, let me know The Issue, my current situation, what should I do? Picked the engine up, creatively moved it by myself to my new homemade bench Here is how she sits now, all the bolts are out, but this flywheel casing will not come off from the engine. I didn't want to force anything, so thought it would be a great time to stop and actually find out what to do next. I was trying to take it apart to get to the Cam to see if there is any damage to the cam. bolts out The push rod that was bent is the 3rd one from the left. So if we count 1, 2, 3, 4 stating with the one furthest to the left. Number 3 is the one that was bent. (drivers side of engine) On this side If we count 1,2,3,4 number 2, was not bent but it was stuck. Number 2 and number 3 are right across from each other, I imagine both are activated by the same cam. (if thats the right way to say that) this is the passenger side of the engine. Looking for any tips or advice, thanks a ton!
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Hi folks, I just took my 1980 Brat in for a safety inspection (part of the process of importing it into Canada). I was told that my front passenger control arm is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm hoping for a second opinion as my understanding is that I just needed to replace the inner tie rod. Two questions: 1) What should I look for to determine if the control arm is shot (it's a Nevada car, rust free and in good shape - just drove across the country) 2) Where could I find a control arm if need be? I've emailed Mountain Tech Subaru and I'm waiting to hear back. This is somewhat time sensitive as I've got about 30 days to complete the importation, though I'm sure I could figure out an extension if need be. Thanks as always, look forward to hearing your advice! -
ive got a question about part interchangeability. the clutch release lever in my 88 gl 4wd broke almost in 2, and im currious if i could substitute it for one from a 2wd. im having trouble finding the leaver. auto parts stores dont carry it, and dealers almost dont have any. i need a functioning lever asap, as every day my car is not running, im losing money by being out of work. if anyone has one they can overnight or knows where to look, i would be very grateful. i know the part number for the one i need is 30531aa031 and the part number for the 2wd lever is 30531aa100.
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i need help with my car. just got a 3 door 1988 GL 4x4 and it ran good when i bought it, but now it wont stay running when i put any load on the engine. i can get it to idle, then if i put load on it, it sputters really bad and stalls. takes a bunch of tries starting to get it to stay running again. the ea81 was put in by the previous owner, and it has a 2 barrel weber carb that i was told needs adjusting. im stuck cuz i have to drive 700 miles and my other car just broke down
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My '84 GL Wagon (2WD) has blown out the driver's side ASV,become difficult to start, and sooted up that side of the engine compartment. Anybody have one for sale or know a work-around? Thanks, Geoff in Georgia
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Been having bad backfires with my weber, and the car will almost die if floored from idle. This causes the car to be gutless in anything besides 4wd lo. Video: Good parts are 0:00-0:30 1:20-1:30 and then 2:00 to the end. The shot of the shifter is me going into 4wd hi, after that it dies, but I think that's partly because my u joints are crap. Bonus shots of the luscious interior. As you can see my tach is broken. Can you guys please post pics of how your tach is wired to the engine? I have this plug, which is in a sheath with the shiny connector beneath it.
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Been having bad backfires with my weber, and the car will almost die if floored from idle. This causes the car to be gutless in anything besides 4wd lo. Video: Good parts are 0:00-0:30 1:20-1:30 and then 2:00 to the end. The shot of the shifter is me going into 4wd hi, after that it dies, but I think that's partly because my u joints are crap. As you can see my tach is broken. Can you guys please post pics of how your tach is wired to the engine? I have this plug, which is in a sheath with the shiny connector beneath it. https://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm200/ComatoseLlama/0623150959_zps4hnmfo9i.jpg?t=1435798642 Bonus shots of the luscious interior.
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Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
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Problem has been happening since I bought the car. Whenever I go to floor it the rpm's die down a few hundred, for about one whole second, and then shoot to redline. Problem has been happening on hitachi and weber. (this is the reason I swapped). New ignition coil, wires and plugs. Cap and rotor look good, but should I replace those? This is mostly a problem in gear, letting the clutch out without having rpms at like 6k will cause the car to die. Was thinking a fluid change is in order? Maybe seafoam? When the engine is not under load it almost always only dives down, and doesn't die. Also, how are nn a/c cars' alternators attached? Just with the one bolt? I took off my a/c and that's all I ran for a little bit (hour max) but it seems to get loose too quickly and has destroyed my water pump bearing. How are yours held on? Pics are welcome Thanks -CL -
I'm still a little groggy today from an 18 hour commute into the boondocks of Ohio to pick up a gem! I was slacking off at work on friday when I stumbled across a 1986 Brat with only 84,000 miles! I then bribed a friend with $50 to ride with me to pick it up. The guy I bought it from was not a Subaru enthusiast, but he was your typical Subaru owner, aka cool and down to earth. The car was passed between a few different people in the town, sounds like it sat in a few garages. The car is in pretty good shape, but in need of a few basics before she runs like she should. Any links or tips to fixing the issues are always appreciated. What needs to be done? The shifter has about 10" of play, It's the craziest shifter I have ever felt. I read a thread on here where someone called it shifting in oatmeal, which fits so damn well! The car needs an overall tune up. The guy I bought it from did not fully understand what he was doing. The car runs decent, but stales out when cold and is currently idling at about 2,5000 RPM. It will occasionally stall in mid turn if I don't rev the engine. The previous owners solution was a new carburetor, which he handed off to me to install at my leisure; however it's probably a much more simple fix than replacing an entire carburetor. Im going to go a little crazy with a can of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter this evening. There is an incredible amount of air in the brake lines. My guess is that he must have run the master dry while bleeding. I tried replacing all the fluid last night by using this method: an TON of air bubbles came out of the front left, hardly any out of the rest. I bled all brakes, but it did not have the effect I was going for. I only did about 8 peddle strokes for the rear tires (i was running out of brake fluid and couldn't do more). I think I may have to buy a spoob ton of fluid and try to bleed more to get the air out of the system. Right now I have to pump the brakes for pressure. The guy I bought it from gave me a new master cylinder because he thought that was the problem; but i don't think that is the problem at all, feels like air and not a bad master. Of corse it leaks some fluids, I need to clean the engine compartment to figure out where its all coming from. Looks like a majority of it is coming from the oil pump. Im replacing the oil this evening and will have a closer look. If you have any suggestions for things to look at or inspect or do to a car that was just rescued, please let me know. I want this thing to run like new and run for MANY more miles. What am I going to do with it? I have not made to many plans for the future, I'm just kind of letting it all sink in. First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. I would like to get a water proof fabric cover, not the topper, for the back Would like a Roll bar, Skid Plate, Fog lights considering how much to lift, would like to go a little crazy with a 6" That's all so far. What would you do, if you were me, and had this beauty sitting in your driveway?
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Im still a little groggy today from an 18 hour commute into the boondocks of Ohio to pick up a gem! I was slacking off at work on friday when I stumbled across a 1986 Brat with only 84,000 miles! I then bribed a friend with $50 to ride with me to pick it up. The guy I bought it from was not a Subaru enthusiast, but he was your typical Subaru owner, aka cool and down to earth. The car was passed between a few different people in the town, sounds like it sat in a few garages. I was able to purchase the car for $2500. The car is in pretty good shape, but in need of a few basics before she runs like she should. Any links or tips to fixing the issues are always appreciated. What needs to be done: The shifter has about 10" of play, It's the craziest shifter I have ever felt. I read a thread on here were someone called it shifting in oatmeal, which fits so damn well! The car needs an overall tune up. The guy I bought it from did not fully understand what he was doing. The car runs decent, but stales out when cold and is currently idling at about 2,5000 RPM. It will occasionally stall in mid turn if I don't rev the engine. The previous owners solution was a new carburetor, which he handed off to me to install at my leisure; however it's probably a much more simple fix than replacing an entire carburetor. Im going to go a little crazy with a can of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter this evening. There is an incredible amount of air in the lines. My guess is that he must have run the master dry while bleeding. I tried replacing all the fluid last night by using this method: an TON of air bubbles came out of the front left, hardly any out of the rest. I bled all brakes, but it did not have the effect I was going for. I only did about 8 peddle strokes for the rear tires (i was running out of brake fluid and couldn't do more. I think I may have to buy a spoob ton of fluid and try to bleed more to get the air out of the system. Right now I have to pump the brakes for pressure. The guy I bought it from gave me a new master cylinder because he thought that was hte problem; but i don't think that is the problem at all, feels like air and not a bad master. Of corse it leaks some fluids, I need to clean the engine compartment to figure out where its all coming from. Looks like a majority of it is coming from the oil pump. Im replacing the oil this evening and will have a closer look. If you have any suggestions for things to look at or inspect or do to a car that was just rescued, please let me know. I want this thing to run like new and run for MANY more miles. What am I going to do with it? I have not made to many plans for the future, I'm just kind of letting it all sink in. First move is to remove the rear seat mounts and install some sort of lock box. I do a lot of campaign and will need the water proof storage. I would like to get a water proof fabric cover, not the topper, for the back Would like a Roll bar, Skid Plate, Fog lights considering how much to lift, would like to go a little crazy with a 6" That's all so far. What would you do, if you were me, and had this beauty sitting in your driveway?
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Hi All I've been struggling with a fuel issue in my EA81 engine (in a converted VW btw). I have finally gotten to the bottom of it and though I would share my experience for others experiencing similar problems... Problem: Engine failing after sustained periods of acceleration - bucking, lagging for 5-10 seconds, then starting again. Work undertaken: Fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced, carbi rebuilt Solution: Problem caused by fuel pressure/vacuum build up. It is understood that the engine originally had a fuel vacuum relief (either on filter or fuel cap), which had been removed in the process of replacing parts i.e. capping line to charcoal canister, fuel filter etc. The solution was to allow for venting via the fuel cap. -
So I've put up a go fund me and am hoping to get help from you guys! I am turning my 83 wagon into a rally car. Right now I am working on the weight reductions and the suspension. I'm hoping to participate in some races next spring and summer. It would be awesome to have a USMB rally car to get some attention to the forums. If it's allowed I will post the link below. Please tell me if it needs to be removed due to rules. If anyone could lend some time helping me with various things (Ideas on suspension, Ideas on weight reductions and drivetrains that might work with a higher powered EA81. I plan on getting most of the forged parts from RAM. Not sure about which turbo I want but will figure that out when the motor part of the build comes along. Here's the link if anyone wants to throw a few bucks towards this build. Any help at all... Even encouragement is greatly appreciated. http://www.gofundme.com/baja500racecar Any suggestions for body and paint? I am going to research bed liners and possible cover it in a rhino line... If it won't effect air and weight.
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Ok so I asked a while ago if it was possible to do wheel bearings without a press and the answer was a definite yes. So probably in June, maybe July, I will be getting them done. I have never done them before but I am very confident in my abilities. I can take a Hitachi carb apart almost blindfolded because ive done it so many times trying to locate my annoying problem . So my line of thinking is, "Hey, wheel bearings can't be half as bad as the Hitachi!". Anyways, I will be gathering info through this thread in the coming weeks so I know what to expect before I go in there. So to start off, I have two questions: first, is this grease suitable? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=s9_simh_co_p263_d8_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=typ-top-left-1&pf_rd_r=0VMM53W26YNTRN8NPDZG&pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=1827489602&pf_rd_i=typ01 Or should I use this grease? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYFSEDA?psc=1 Second, where is the best place to buy wheel bearings?
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So now that my brat is becoming more and more done, I'm getting ready to tackle the heat. Well, lack of it. When I turn the dial absolutely nothing happens. I deleted the a/c, but it wasn't working before that anyway. Where should I start my chase for the fix of the problem? Down the rabbit hole I go.....
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Just got my weber today and installed it. Well, kinda. I have the fuel in connected, and that's all. 1. Which out of these vales are my pcv, and can I plug the other? pic 2. What out of these tubes do I need? No egr or asv pic 3. What do I connect to this outlet and where do I get my electric choke wire from? pic Edit- BB code
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I wanna do somethin like this eventually For the front, I was thinking just recreating the stock one out of much more strudy material, like some 2x2 thick wall, and working in the radius rods. I'm guessing a ej 5 lug swap would be needed for strength. Axles would be a pita. Rear would be harder, Especially since I have a torsion bar. Would just replacing the tortion bar with some hard tubing, and then recreating the rear with the same stuff as the front, and then some nice struts all around. Other ideas and input would be amazing. Need some ideas
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Seems like if you're going to make a subframe and drop the original one, you could offset it a few inches forward. Would make your approach angle 0 and let you climb up vertical walls. Anyone done this? Theoretically you could do this to the rear axle as well, but would probably look funky as heck. Anyone ever done it? Only issue I can see is steering, and if you use too thin walled material, bending. Thoughts? Opinios?
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Howdy folks, long time lurker here, finally piping up with some questions. I’ve recently acquired a Gen 1 Brat with an EA81 motor and tranny swap. Things are running fine and it’s currently on the road, but I’m looking to drive it from Las Vegas back home to Toronto in a couple of months time when my current gig ends. To do so, I’m trying to compile a list of everything I’m gonna need to replace, acquire, fix and torque down. I’m hoping the USMB can help me out on this front as I try to get everything sorted out. First on the list, I’d like to replace the front axles - the boots on both are completely shot. I’ve read here that a lot of folks prefer having their original axles rebuilt rather than buying replacements. For my purposes, I’ll certainly hold on to my originals for future use, but to drive across the country, I’ll be looking to swap in some new ones. Word on the street is that EMPI have decent build quality, do Gen 1’s and Gen 2’s share the same axle assembly? Rockauto seems to suggest they don’t but it’s not totally clear. Do folks at USMB have a preferred vendor for EMPI? Lastly, if I’m replacing the axles I feel like I might as well do the wheel bearings too - is there anything else that falls in the same category of “might as well replace it” while the wheels and axles are off? I’ve got many more questions as I look to drop a weber on it, delete the EGR, tune up the cooling, switch over to Pertronix from points and possibly upgrade the alternator to a GM, but for now, any guidance regarding my axles and associated upgrades would be tremendously appreciated. Lastly, here’s a pic for those of you that are interested.
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDRkNHRlhzcXNyNWs/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDM0I0MVp5RmxYMG8/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDMnZ0T1FwMllqQjA/view?usp=sharing Links above are Pictures. Just wondering what tubes I really need. Deleted and capped the egr yesterday. Weber should be here in a few days.
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Step 1: Cut the wishbone out of you old ea81 shock. I cut the metal circle twice, knocked that off, cut out some rubber, used a hammer to bash the metal back and stripped the rubber off Step 2: Take new strut (both sides have to be eyelets) and put it in a vise, clamp towards where you're putting this, metal is solid up there Step 3: Lubricate. Put grease everywhere, inside the eyelet on the wishbone. step 4: Take vise grips and grap the circle part very tightly Step 5: Work the tip of the wishbone into the hole Step 6: Hammer the wishbone in Finished product is attached
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Picture attached. I need to know if the thing that's pointed to comes off, and where I can get one if it does. My current exhaust is welded to it. Pic isn't mine
