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Showing results for tags 'Transmission'.
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What would you do? Looking for some advice / thoughts regarding my noisy Outback transmission. Car is otherwise in good working condition and runs well. I'd like to keep it as long as possible before replacing it. My 175K miles 2003 Outback transmission began whining about a year ago, and has gotten noticeably worse in the past 3 months. The noise occurs when there is a load on the transmission (i.e. acceleration but not coasting). There's another Forum post re transmission here at USMB that has a video / sound attachment to illustrate what a bad pinion sounds like...that's the sound I hear while driving. The transmission seems to function just fine...shifts well and smoothly as always, so I don't feel any urgency to fix it (today) but worry it could fail anytime. The transmission noise is not quite deafening, but it's getting there. I've taken the car to my local Lambs Automotive, Aamco, Cottmann Tranmission,and even the Austin subaru dealer and have a whole range of recommendations ($700 to open and then diagnose / repair ($$ unknown); replace with 113K used transmission and 6 month warranty ($3000), install used transmission from 2006 vehicle ($4425 at dealer). I have great trust in one of these repair shops as they have serviced / repaired my four vehicles over the past 15 years (Lambs). The others don't know me from Adam. Thanks in advance for whatever thoughts and ideas you can share. Happy 2016 to all. -
I have a 2014 Subaru legacy and I love it, but id like to get some more power out of it. I have a very limited knowledge of upgrading cars, but from what I've researched and been told I think the best way to achieve the 350-400hp I'm looking for (and staying under $4-8k) is keeping the current engine and rebuilding it with forged pistons, turboing the engine and swapping the transmission. I've also been told I might need a new intercooler as well, but I haven't gotten any professional advice yet. Does this sound like a terrible idea? And what do you think the cheapest/best way to get more power in my legacy would be? Would really appreciate any advice!
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Have a 91 loyale automatic push button 4wd and when I drive it for a very short distance you can feel something in the front end grabbing and then all at once it's like you hit a brick wall when the front end locks up and the only way you can move is in reverse so could someone please diagnose what is wrong..I have found a new trans and front diff so if that's the problem I have the parts to fix it but don't want to replace all that if it's not the problem..thank you and I am also new to the forum and to the Subaru world so keep it simple if you could thank you
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Hi folks, i have got a 96 RX impreza (im in au btw so will be putting it on AUSubaru too) and i need to swap out the gearbox. Front pinion bearings are gone, 3rds syncro is gone, 4th is on the way out etc etc old gc series gearbox fun stuff. Anyways im trying to find the gear ratios for it to see how close a 2010 RX gearbox is to the ratios in mine so i can see how well it will run without much engine modification other than what i already have planned. And yes Subaru have stopped making parts for the model so i would rather put in the new one since it is apparently a straight changeover. The transmission code is TY752VRBAA. The reason im getting on here is because i cant find any record of it on the internet, i've looked at transmission spec spreadsheets, 93-96 workshop manuals but still cant find anything definitive. Any info that can help or at least send me in the right direction would be awesome. And also has anyone done a conversion like this that can give me some tips? Thanks in advance. -
Hello people, I asked this on another subaru-oriented site but so far I've had no answers, and I need an answer soon. The transmission on my '05 OBW is going belly up. When cold (specially if the car has been sitting for a while, e.g. for a weekend) it takes a while for the forward gears to engage, and then shifts like crap until it warms up somewhat. The tranny was overfilled, and when I removed the extra ATF (about 2 Qts) the fluid that came out looked all but "bright red". There were also some friction material bits on it (not too many, but still). In any case, I think this transmission will fail this winter, and I'd like to be ready when that happens. I've been trying to find information about compatible transmissions (specially from Foresters, as there seem to be way more of them than Outbacks on the junkyards around here) but so far no luck. Is there any way to "decipher" the transmission code (mine is TZ1B7lCACA) to see which transmissions would be compatible? I googled that code and didn't get anything significant. The only search that gives something is for "TZ1B", so I assume that's the most relevant part of the code. But which cars have compatible transmissions? Thanks! -
I'm wondering what the spline count is on the front differential stub shafts of an XT6 transmission. Will EA81 axles slide right on, or do I need to swap out the stub shafts for EA81 parts?
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I'm new here and new to Subarus. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5 automatic AWD, and I think it needs a new transmission. The model number on the bell housing is tz102z2cba-dt. I've found a japanese import transmission that I'm told will work, model number tz102z1caa-dg apparently from a 1998 Outback. Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm looking for a direct replacement, if possible, and I'm having some difficulty finding these model numbers online to really compare them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy with about 57K miles on it. Recently, I've noticed a slight grinding sound whenever I accelerate, particularly when the car reaches certain speeds. The sound appears to be coming from under the car near the front. It is most noticeable when the car is around 25 to 30 mph but I can hear it slightly at some other speeds also. There is no sound when slowing down or braking... and this happens when going straight. Does this point to a problem with the transmission? I had the transmission oil changed (and front/rear differential fluids) about 4 years ago when the car had 34K on it. Should I get another transmission oil change or what else do you recommend? Thanks -
i have had a 94 subaru sxv now for 2 yrs. picked up with bad tranny as i see most have, and was looking on forums and found i can change it into a standard trans but none seem to say where they got it from ? so i have come across an 02 wrx and just need to know if trans will bolt on ? if not what may be the reason ? and what years will....thanks -
Hello. thanks for stopping by. First I have spent a good hour searching and digging before I posted this thread."pulse" and other terms I could think of brought up a lot of fuel system stuff but not what I feel is going, IE please hold your tongue for " do your own research" type replies. We are a community after all :0D The real thread starts here: 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 AWD automatic trans. I experience a pulse, " whoosh, whoosh whoosh" sound and feeling that picks up and slows down as the vehicle's speed does ( not engine speed, but vehicle speed) It felt to me like it was coming from the front. Things I have done / checked: 1. New tires and balanced ( needed them anyways did not fix issue) 2. checked boots at wheels , Front + back, No rips I could see 3. Checked boots at trans ( front axles ) no visible rips Unrelated recent maintenance since : oil chance fuel filter replaced Air filter service ( K & N type) Any thoughts/ Questions/ links / other threads related would be greatly appreciated -
Hello all. I have an interesting issue. 97 Legacy outback wagon Automatic shuddering while pulling of the line in first gear. Feels like a bad trans mount in an old RWD car. Problem goes away with the FWD fuse in. There is also a slight shake at 60 in AWD but it is also gone in FWD. Unfortunately I did not drive it prior to pulling the motor for head gasket replacement except to drive it onto a Uhaul transporter for the 70 mile ride home where my daughter broke down. As I said, runs like a scalded dog in FWD but shudders in AWD in a straight line or turning unless on a gravel road. Shudder goes away then also but cant get up to 60 to check a tire shake. (I am not that nuts). One more thing. When trying to get a rounded nut off on the bottom left bellhousing the axle slid out some with the stub shaft. As this is my only Auto roo I do not know if this is supposed to happen. I did end up pulling the left axle to gain access to the rounded nut. Everything went back together in their original orientation. Any help or ideas would be helpful. I do have the option of bidding on a couple wrecked roos for parts if necessary. -
Hey everyone. I just purchased a 1999 Outback wagon, and one of the issues to sort out is an issue with reverse (5-speed manual). When you shift into reverse, it takes a little more force than normal to engage it, or it will grind and/or pop out when you let up on the clutch. Once engaged, reverse works fine and it does not pop out of gear. The bigger problem is when you try to shift out of reverse- going from reverse to neutral takes considerable force. The shifter feels great otherwise. All forward gears are fine, the shifter isn't loose/sloppy, no vague gear changes, etc. The clutch also feels good. The previous owner reports it has been this way since the owner before him, and it has made it a year and six or seven thousand miles like this... He just got used to it. Any thoughts on where I might look first to track this one down? -
Hello everyone. I am currently looking at possibly buying a 1986 Subaru GL 4WD wagon that's on a lot in Washington, but I'm in California so I had someone check it out for me. He tells me that the on-demand 4WD is not a push-button, as I expected, but rather on a lever on the steering column. I've tried to look into this, and it seems like Subaru stopped making that kind of 4WD transimission in the late 70's? Can anyone discuss this with me? This is a big purchase for me - not a "fun" car, but would be my only car. Thank you! -
Hi All - Replaced timing belts, idler , tensioner etc. Drove the car 300 miles and let it sit for a day.Got back in and heard a distinctive hi pitched whine, lower at idle higher at speed coming from engine. Not discernable at freeway speed (too high pitched?). Got back in the car the following day and didnt hear the noise. The noise was way too obvious to be "normal". If I knew more I might suspect a problem with the alternator...but then it could be any of the other items replaced? Any thoughts would be most welcome! -
does anyone know what fluid goes in the 5 speed dual range 4wd manual transmission? its out of an 88 GL. i accidentally spilled most of the fluid while the transmission was disconnected.
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Hello all! My brat has been driving strange for awhile and I would like to fix it. While driving in any gear, The RPM's will shoot up if I open the throttle all the away and the car will not move faster. This can happen in any gear but its the worst in 3rd. I tried to replace the clutch a week ago but it was the wrong size clutch set, so I cleaned the assembly with brake cleaner and slapped it back together. The clutch that was already there didn't look to bad but the inside of the bell housing was covered in black sludge and grease (maybe gear oil). I just want some input on the situation before I separate the engine and tranny again. Thank you, Zosojojo
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While putting the engine into my '01 Forester 4EAT I failed to properly seat the TC and ended up damaging the pump in the auto trans. I've been looking at various options. Namely: either taking the pump apart and fixing it or replacing the pump, or putting another transmission into it. I bought a used '98 Forester trans (TZ103ZJ1AA-L1) without realizing that it was (mostly?) incompatible. I could exchange the '98 Forester transmission for one out of a '00 Outback Wagon. Are they compatible? I know the final drive ratios are the same and the transmission will likely bolt right up to the engine, but what about the electronics? Will the driveshaft from my Forester fit with the OBW trans? Will my Forester starter fit on the OBW trans? Are the gear ratios similar? How will the OBW trans in the Forester affect things like the speedo reading accurately? The information: '01 Forester 4EAT with about 174k (Trans replaced at 89k) Trans # TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8 '00 Outback Wagon (milage unknown. Reason for ending up in the junkyard unknown, but it wasn't a collision) Trans # TZ1A4ZCABA I'd hate to go through the trouble of getting the Outback transmission only to find out it won't work in my Forester. Any help is greatly appreciated! -
Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
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Hi, My 1990 Legacy automatic transmission has developed a leak. For 15 years I regularly checked the ATF level, then bam, one day it was low. The leak is from a gap cut into the the transmission housing, but is actually the ATF pump. It is leaking about 300mL per hour of idling. At 25 years, a transmission teardown just isn't in the book. But Josh slightly suggested a chemical fix. My question is: which seal is leaking, and what chemical leak solution is most likely to stop the leak?
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Let me first start off by saying that am in no way an expert on cars, I just really don't have any money. My boyfriend and I have been fixing this car like crazy for the past year and hopefully this is the last major fix for a while. Anyway, I noticed some rough shifting a few months ago and upon some investigation I realized that the transmission fluid was low. It was leaking. I told my boyfriend and he got under my car to find a stripped transmission fluid pan bolt. It was leaking very very very slowly from this. We ended up having to replace the whole pan. I noticed it was doing it again this week. I took it to a family friend to be inspected today and he saw the leak. After about 4 seconds of him looking at the car he said it was the line from the radiator to the transmission. It was rusted and needed replaced. I could see where the line was leaking clearly. I'm really trying to avoid a mechanic bill at this point though. So to describe the situation, there are two lines next to each other that are rusted but only one is leaking at this point. I'm not 100% positive I'm calling it the correct name. I usually buy my parts on rockauto and they have all turned out very well for me. When I was looking for this part it didn't look right to me. The piece I'm looking at online is rubber and doesn't have the type of connectors the one on my car has. It's possible that I must buy those separately, I'm just somewhat confused. I suspect that it might be pulling up a part for a transmission cooler instead of the line to the radiator from the transmission. Here's the part I keep finding. They all look similar to this. http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/transmission-cooler-line-assembly/dorman-transmission-cooler-line-assembly/749973_829022_0/ I was also wondering if anyone has done this repair before. My boyfriend and I have basically replaced everything on my exhaust system from the O2 sensor back without trouble. This seems like it might be rough though. Edit: I have a 2002 outback -
Shifter Bushings, Can't Remove them?
Subasaurus posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
1989 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD Single Range 5spd so i went to the junkyard, picked up the shifter bushings just like i had done to my 93 impreza a while ago, removed some good condition ones and came home, well i did not realize that the one i removed it from was from a 2WD, thats why it was so easy to remove, and now i can't remove mine since Subaru put the bolt in the wrong way, and its in the way of the 4WD knucke that comes out of the transmission, its such an easy project yet so difficult its stupid. i did notice theres i think a roll pin on the piece that connects to the transmission but again, the stupid knuckle is in the way! please don't tell me i have to do this whole elaborate thing and remove almost everything just to change these rubber bushings on a bolt. the shifter is being annoying on the highway and i really want to just fix it. has anyone else had this problem? what did you do? any input is greatly appreciated!! the thing im pointing at is the nut, not the bolt, bolt is on the other side and thats the problem.
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I have a 5 speed manual front wheel drive ea81 that I am wanting to fit an ej22 into. Here are the options I am looking at: FWD Impreza transmission: I read that the impreza ej22 fwd transmissions are 23 spline and so are the hubs of the ea81 cars. I also read that to use an ej22 transmission, I could use the front and rear crossmember pieces out of an xt6 and the center one out of a wrx. If so, are they a direct bolt in? And what year wrx would I be looking at? And is all of this possible? Is there any way I could fabricate some sort of crossmember or modify the original one to fit an ej transmission with just a drill and an angle grinder? Reusing my stock transmission: With these parts, would they mate up together? -ea81 clutch -Flywheel redrilled to the ej pattern -xt6 pressure plate. (I don't know if I have to get another throwout bearing or if I can reuse the one that's in there). -Adapter plate since the shaft of the ea transmission is longer than the ej transmission. Ea82 transmission: Readily available and really cheap. From what I understand they are pretty similar to the ea81 transmissions too, and I can pick one up with significantly lower miles than my current one for pretty cheap so I'd be willing to do it if it's not too complicated. The thing is that my stock transmission has 250000 miles on it, so I was planning on replacing it anyways and I'd have to pay $400 for a redrilled flywheel and adapter plate from sjr since I don't have any good machining tools. I was thinking that for that price I could just get a fwd ej transmission, am I right?
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Hi All...looking for a little help before I likely head to a mechanic soon. 2004 Subaru Outback, Limited 2.5L 4 cylinder 185,000 Miles Purchased at 75,000 in 2009...and I haven't touched the transmission or transmission fluid...I know, I know... When I start the car...idle has a slight sputter. For a split second, it seems it may think about dying...really a hair of a second, then continues on idling. (I'm going to re-verify this tonight because it's the part that doesn't make sense to me). The primary issue is at highway speed. Let's say you let off the gas at 40, 50, 60mph. Coast for a second...then get on the gas again (light or hard), the car doesn't find a gear (assumption based on the feel) and just starts clunkering/jerking around until I manually move the shifter to 3rd. The car rights itself instantly in 3rd...I move back to D and we're mostly ok again...until I let off the gas and get on the gas again. Now today was the first time in drive, while consistently accelerating that it seemed to slip and couldn't maintain the gain, so I put it back in 3rd and all was good. I also got the flashing check engine light today...moved down to 3rd and all was good...CEL went solid instead flashing. This happens at lower speeds as well...just not as pronounced of a feel. I kind of feel I'm on borrowed time with the transmission, right? or am I way off? -
1997 Legacy Wagon has been running strong and then, out of nowhere, the clutch pedal does something strange. First it loses return pressure and I struggle to get it in gear. Then after about three brief uses the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance and the stick refuses to go into any gear. The pedal pressure is non existent now. When engine is off, I can easily put the stick in any gear. When I start it in first, it starts and leaps forward confirming that it is in gear. The cable connections all look solid and rust free. Is there a return spring somewhere. The pedal one looks fine. The PHV spring is there at the end of the cable but I know nothing about PHVs. Since the cable seems to be functioning (but not returning) could it be the clutch or clutch fork? Can a clutch just die instantaneously like this? My stick linkage is the loosest I've ever felt. Related? Any advise is welcome. Thanks for your time and knowledge. -
So I can't get the pin off that goes through the end of the clutch cable and the clutch pedal. I can't figure out how to pull the pedal either. Please help me.
